Eric Ziebold

17 hours ago, DonRocks said:

I should add that the guides - for both hotels and restaurants - even in France - are often just flat-out wrong. There are ultimately human beings behind the ratings, and these are very fallible people. They don't even know who the other inspectors are, and the guides are a prime example of "rating by committee," which is almost always a bad idea because no individuals are held accountable for letting down the public. If you vehemently disagree with a rating, and feel ripped off (as happened to me once last week), to whom do you complain?

I think Sheldman asked a very important question.  Unfortunately, in everyone's rush to anoint or bash michelin not enough people have thought about ratings, dining guides etc... under the context of who is their audience.  Taste is subjective.  Different people are looking for different things from an experience at any given restaurant.  Anyone that is blindly using any guide is bound to be disappointed at times if they're basing their decisions solely on that guide.  I've eaten at restaurants that you've raved about and had great meals, and I've eaten at restaurants you've raved at and had mediocre meals.  Does that make you wrong?  I ate at El Bulli with Grant Achatz, he loved it but I didn't.  Does that make him wrong?  The next night we ate at El Raco con Fabes, I loved it, he didn't.  Does that make him wrong?

When I had a bad meal at a restaurant you recommended did I complain to you?  yes i did.  Can you complain to michelin?  yes you can.  I don't have michelin programmed into my phone so admittedly it's much easier to complain to you.  There is no dining guide that takes responsibility for their reviews by reimbursing people that have bad experiences at restaurants they've rated highly.  Sure I've heard you say to people, if you don't love it I'll buy it for you, but is that really your practice for your dining guide that if anyone goes to a restaurant you have in italics and don't think it's great they can send you the bill for reimbursement?  Now I do realize that nowhere in your post did you even allude to expecting reimbursement, but what is your expectation in asking the question of...."If you vehemently disagree with a rating, and feel ripped off (as happened to me once last week), to whom do you complain?"  Do you really expect them to reprint their guide and change the rating solely because you disagree with them?  I'm willing to bet if they got enough letters from enough people they would certainly revisit a restaurant more frequently than normal.  

Doesn't the key to using guides successfully lie in understanding the guides criteria, how it works, and in some ways it's palate?  Taking Robert Parker as an example.  I find his evaluation of Bordeaux wines to be useful(note I did not say 100% to my liking).  However, as it pertains to white wines not at all.  The great thing about Robert Parker as a resource is that he's very consistent in my opinion and that consistency makes it easy to discern what his palate is.  He consistently rates white rhone wines with huge scores.  He seems to love white wines that I consider big, fat, obnoxious, flabby, low-acid and heavy.  Generally speaking, I don't like white rhone.  I really don't like the white rhones that he gives massive scores to.  Does that make him wrong?  To immediately dismiss him because I disagree would be foolish.  To understand how/why he rates things the way he does makes his reviews useful.  Simply put, I'll read what he writes about Bordeaux, I won't even look at what he writes about white rhone.

For some people the michelin guide will be useful, for some people not at all.  I disagree with some of the people that are trying to degrade them.

So who is their target audience, and is a Washington DC guide good for you?  

wondering if they're going to include a sort of "cuisine" section like they do in the Paris guide.

11 hours ago, DonRocks said:

Lotus, from my experience, everything *but* the Soufflé is for two (the Clafoutis, for example, was enormous). Certainly, all the savory courses are for two people (or more, if you're structuring your meal that way): with the exception of the lobe of foie gras, which I haven't had, plan on generously sized entrees for two people. 

Regarding the lobe of foie gras, I know that it is (or was) the larger of the two lobes. Many years ago at CityZen, I split the *smaller* of the two lobes with one other person, and it was an unbelievable amount of food - it was decadence in excess. So, I would plan on the lobe of foie gras being a Gargantuan entree for two, or an appetizer for four - at $150, I suspect it's well-worth the money, and I was simply never with someone who wanted to invest that much of the meal in this one course; I would be delighted to get it.

Maybe for our Member-Influenced reviews, starting up again this autumn, I'll go with one-or-more of our members to whichever restaurant is selected. If Kinship is selected again, you won't have to twist my arm to order the lobe of foie gras ...

I also want to point out that several of those restaurants on the nomination list were nominated by Mix Meyer, who is no longer with us.  I may review those on my own, as a way to honor Mix.

To clarify the foie, personally I'd like to be with at least 3 if not 5 other people to order the whole roasted foie. We got 6 lovely slices out of the one we served tonight.

enjoyed it quite a bit.

your next trip to France you need to head to Chez Hortense in Cap Ferret for their moules frites(southwest France).  Absolutely to die for albeit a little different than the northern version.  No broth, instead it would seem they're oven roasted as opposed to steamed.  Garlicky, bacony bread crumbs, very respectable french fries and some inexpensive white bordeaux (specifically we had the graville lacoste for about 20 euro).  Absolutely delightful dish regardless of origin.  These are small bouchot mussels so if you prefer the giant PEI type skip it and save the table for us.  :-)

Being a huge fan of the Cava in Ballston/Clarendon I was quite excited to see that Cava was opening in Fox Chase.  Their fast casual here means basically everything is coming out of a steam table.  I haven't been back.

On 6/2/2016 at 2:30 PM, danielahn31 said:

I'd assume a tasting menu/chef experience/omakase/etc is almost a prerequisite

If you're talking about the 2 & 3*s I would tend to agree.  

one Michelin star represents a “very good restaurant in its category,” while two stars denotes a restaurant boasting “excellent cooking” that is “worth a detour.” Three stars, however, is the ultimate accolade, afforded only to those restaurants that offer “exceptional cuisine” that is “worth a special journey.”

I think it's tough to be "worth a special journey" if someone comes in and orders a single course.  The obvious exception being the tongue taco at La Taqueria in San Francisco.

To clarify, tax is additional, service is not.

So if you order the wine pairing it's already priced with the idea of it being service included as well.

I'm one of those that thinks the current system is antiquated and broken.   Personally, I'd be very happy if that's the future for the hospitality industry.

Yes, legislation would make it easier but I don't actually think it would be that difficult for restaurants to handle it internally if they want to.  Service included written on the menu as well as removing the gratuity line from the Credit Card receipt would make it pretty clear for most people.  (I say most because there might be some people that still pay their tab with that archaic thing called "cash")

I was in Europe for a little while in August, some places have moved away from service included, but they all have the tip line which I found really annoying and frustrating, I see this as a great solution for tourists and locals as like.  They simply sign the amount that is stated and if they ask about tipping can then be told that the restaurant is service included and they don't accept tips.

On a side note....I'll never forget our experience in Beijing where we got chased down by a server.  We knew it's not a tipping culture but we were in a very off the beaten path restaurant that did everything they could to accommodate the language barrier.  Feeling like we were a pain in the a@# we left a tip on the table.  Our server chased us down to give it back to us, and even though we tried again she made it obvious that she was refusing to take it.

sorry, meant to post this a few weeks ago but had to reset my password for the umpteenth time.  If what we saw when we walked past the restaurant (now several weeks ago, but right after the salmonella reporting)  they're gonna have no worries getting people back into the restaurant.  Place was packed!!!!

uh oh, Don how do I change my tagline?

Should probably read

Eric Ziebold

Chef,

Unemployed

If you're a fan of moving away from the current gratuity system then it's great that Bar Marco has been able to get as much press and publicity as they have for what they're doing.

While it's probably in some ways more 'simple' to look at the restaurant economics there are IMHO two major issues with changing to gratuity system which are much harder to address.  Public perception, and finding staff.

Don has repeatedly said that he would gladly pay the 20% extra if the need to tip at the end of a meal was removed.  I certainly don't question his sentiment, and am good enough friends with Don that I can say with confidence that he genuinely means that, however what if the diner isn't aware that service is included.  Unless the entire industry was to change all at one time I do think it would be a perception challenge if there were only a small handful of restaurants that had 20% higher pricing to compete.  I'm not saying they wouldn't get any customers but I do question that most people would delve that deeply into the issue to say oh, I see, the reason their appetizers are $18 instead of $15 is because service is included.  Oh that's not really a $10 dessert its actually $8 because service is included.  3 courses for $54 is actually the same as 3 courses for $45 because service is included.  If it's a restaurant that I really want to go to does it make a difference?  Probably not.  But if I'm strolling along the Promenade in Manhattan Beach reading menus as I walk by or strolling through Chinatown for that matter and am deciding where to eat, does it make a difference?  I think it can/would/does.  Some of those are probably the types of restaurants where the service staff needs the most help.

Additionally, until the new system was in place long enough, would we still not feel a little guilty about leaving 0 gratuity?  Or would it simply be we would still leave a tip just maybe 5% instead of 20%?  I thought Charles brought up a good point months back.  If the service staff in California IS getting paid a higher base salary then do we still need to tip them 20%?  Is the cost of living that much higher in San Francisco or San Diego than Washington DC, or NYC?

Which brings me to the question of service staff.  I think there is a large segment of the service workforce that doesn't want to change the system.  Doesn't want to go away from receiving cash tips, and certainly doesn't want to have to declare and get taxed on all of their income.  There is what I would consider a large section of the service population that likes feeling like they control their own destiny in regards to their income.  Again, unless the change happens overnight to the entire industry, I think that for the bulk of the restaurants it's going to be much harder to find good, well trained/trainable service staff if you're a restaurant paying a straight hourly wage and the restaurant next door gives you the opportunity to make hard cash.

We're looking to fill a position in our kitchen. Hours can be long. Experience is preferred. Right attitude is even better.

If interested in learning more please reach out to me at:

EZiebold@mohg.com

(202)787-6600

I personally don't own a camera, and only on rare occasions take photos of anything, food or otherwise.

Did have an inspiring dish the other day that caused me to want to take a photo:

Had this at a Jolie Feuille gallery viewing just the other day. Absolutely delicious.

Only problem is that the 'restaurant' only has seating for 4 ppl. (6 if they're very friendly)

They're only open sometimes on Sundays and Mondays

They don't take reservations.

And they don't accept cash. (payment is only accepted in the form of a shared bottle of wine)

Besides the great dish, it's nice that if you're willing to jump through all of the reservation/payment hoops they're very accomodating when it comes to taking photos. (granted there was only 1 other person in the "dining room", but she didn't seem to mind.)

Okay, well, here's your discussion. Eric, you're saying that Kummer distorted and made up facts, but you haven't said which facts he made up. Were you at TFL during that 1997 meal? What facts did he make up? That's all I'm asking you to clarify because those are serious allegations.

Yes I was in the Kitchen.

Was Corby actually there, that I'm grey on hence I haven't said that.

Yes it was Ruth, yes it was Phyllis, I thought the third person was Elaine Light who was a food writer in Pittsburgh, but that could have been the previous year.

It was 3 different tasting menus, the only way you get to 40 courses was by adding up the courses from all 3 menus. So when Corby talks twice about the 40 course French Laundry menus, he's embellishing to the point of lying. I'm not saying he only had 39, or 38.

He's saying he had no choice in what he was served. I'm saying they wanted us to do a menu for them.

He's saying he was served 40 courses. I'm saying he wasn't even served half of that.

Eric, would you mind supporting this statement with some detail? In particular the part about making up facts?

From 1996-2004 the longest Tasting Menu ever served at The French Laundry was 33 courses. (Possibly 31, I still have the menu but its in my attic and I want to say that was probably in '98 or '99)

While that may sound horrifying, and not that far off from what Corby describes, that was the exception, not the norm. An exception because one of our regulars wanted to have lunch AND dinner at The French Laundry. Very entertaining story that I will tell you at a later time if you'd like.

He asked to do it again about a year later, Thomas said no.

In 1997 the longest tasting menu we would have done would have been under 20 courses, roughly half of what Corby is claiming to have eaten.

At that time there was a prix fixe menu with 8-10 first courses options, 4 fish courses options, 4 meat courses options, 4 cheese courses options, and 5 dessert options. As well as the tasting menu and vegetarian tasting menu. We offered if they would like us to do a menu for them, and they said yes.

Ruth Reichl later wrote it was the most exciting restaurant to eat in the United States. Didn't really sound like she regretted putting herself in our hands.

Based on calling attention, in a completely over-the-top (but well-written) fashion, to what I think is a very real (first-world) problem, or at least a very real issue, albeit a small one. I can count the number of restaurants in the DC area on two hands that force diners to have extended tasting menus, so this is not a widespread pestilence, but this is the first time I recall an article even addressing the growing trend. So to answer your question:

1) It's well-written

2) It's amusing

3) It uses mockery in a Jon Stewart-esque way to poke fun at a real issue

4) It's the first time I remember seeing the issue addressed head-on in such a major publication

I'm not a big Corby Kummer fan (he comes across as ivory-tower snotty-arrogant to me), but from what little I've read by him, this is probably the thing I enjoyed the most. I do, however, think he made a mountain out of a molehill.

Also, when people go see an opera, they're held hostage to 3-4 hours of whatever the hell the composer and conductor wants them to hear, and they happily shell out $125 for the privilege. So ... what's the difference? I have seen no less than 30 operas in my life, and finally came to the decision that I just don't like sitting there that long, so you know what? I just don't go. It doesn't mean I don't respect them, but they're just not for me at this stage in my life.

Fair answer?

1.) Well written. Maybe gramatically, but I don't think an opinion piece that distorts and embellishes the factual information beyond recognition makes for a very well written argument.

2.) Amusing. You mean amusing in the way its fun to laugh at someone else's expense, even if the one making the jokes is making things up as he goes?

3.) No comment on mockery as I don't follow Jon Stewart.

4.) Addressed head-on. Seriously??

How is he addressing an issue "head-on" when he's making a mockery of the issue by blatantly making up a story?

Unfortunately, I don't feel he's addressing the issue "head-on" it appears more to me that he's got an axe to grind and he's using the article to shoot spitballs at people.

"I never made the pilgramage to El Bulli and never wanted to, having been in Adria's papal presence on too many occasions."- Corby Kummer

hmmm.....never ate at the restaurant. Awful lof of derogatory comments about something he has no first hand experience with. Fine if you want to take cheap shots, but an issue as important as this I think you should stick to what you can talk about having experienced.

I could more or less pick apart the article. For obvious reasons the TFL parts would be easier for me to do but that's not the point.

Who really wants to take the topic on "head-on?" But first what is the topic?

I would contend that the topic is a shift, a change in how hospitality by some chefs AND diners is perceived.

It could be an incredibly interesting discussion, (or book, something like "The Last Days of Haute Cuisine-Patric Kuh")

I think this is a huge issue. I'd love to host a discussion about it. I'd love to be interviewed by/collaborate with someone that wants to do the topic justice (Phyllis, Tim, Don, Waitman???) I don't look at it as much of an "issue" as a shift in the homogeneous perception of what hospitality is. Today is a moment in time.

If you don't agree with that I end with this thought for now:

In 1997 after a meal at The French Laundry, Ruth Reichl writes an article for the NY Times, and calls it the most exciting place to eat in the United States

In 2013, Corby Kummer writes an article in Vanity Fair, with a VERY different perspective of the same meal.

Doesn't the same hold true of the writer? Thus making it OK that the writer writes whatever (s)he wants, and it is upon us to read or not read?

If the masses oppose the writing, eventually the writer is out of a job the same way the chef is. Both chef and writer must appeal to the masses and will wield some power if the masses embrace them. This writer certainly has us masses 'sitting in his restaurant' for better or worse, no?

At the end of the day, this is all "hysteria on the way to the grave" as a co-worker of mine used to say. There's no real, true absolutes as this stuff doesn't really matter per se. If a chef can make a killing with a relentless tasting menu, so be it. If a writer can make a splash with a criticism of same, so be that. Both are just making their way in the world and we can choose to side with either, both or neither. Regardless, we'll be dead within our lifetimes.

I'm not exactly sure the same holds true of the writer.

I'm not a lawyer but, don't we have some sort of libel laws in this country? Unfortunately, the writers need to embellish the facts to try and win the reader over to his point of view, go beyond an embellishment, beyond misrepresentation, he makes bold statements that are simply not true. Subjective statements about his opinion, sure that's what he's paid to write, like it or not. But to outright make up facts???

I'm not exactly sure that's the same issue. An opinion peace shoud be supported by some facts, shouldn't it?

"Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please." - Mark Twain

This is a *great* article.

Really?.?.?...

"Great"???

Based on......?

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/12/16/us/mislabeled-foods-find-their-way-to-diners-tables.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&hpw

And the follow up to the previous story.

But without an enormous amount of funding for US Customs, is there a solution?

www.nytimes.com/2012/12/11/science/earth/tests-call-mislabeled-fish-a-widespread-problem-in-new-york.html?smid=tw-share&_r=0

I too am old enough to remember when 15% was the norm. I never really understood and was somewhat mystified how 18% and then 20% became the norm. I sort of thought it was because the economy was booming, people were very freespending and it just sort of changed over time. That being said, with the exception being large parties that some restaurants require a contract and mandated "service charge" for, in it's current form isn't the % is left up to the guest?

Wont "social ettiquette" change only if society wants it to, but does that really mean you have to go along?

Europe used to be a non-tipping culture and they're moving towards additional gratuity. Isn't it just a matter of time before their 1-5% becomes 10-15%, and then 15-20%?

Does this mean you're in favor of more restaurants going to service included? Thus relieving you of any sort of social pressure and allowing you to more easily pick and chose your dining options?

*FWIW- redistributing tips to cooks, stewards, and management isn't legal, and would be something that is much harder to change than restaurants going to service charge.

from the best that I can tell, this "fifth taste receptor" wasn't discovered until the year 2000

In 1992 I was in culinary school and one of the classes was "oriental kitchen"

Shirley Cheng, the very knowledgeable Chinese instructor informed us that in China, unlike the West, there are five flavors.

So this was a full 8 yrs. before 2000.

Of course she called the five tastes:

Sweet

Sour

Salty

Bitter

Fresh

I only wonder if that means there are now 6 or still 5.

If you have a car head to Pinones, there is a stretch along 187 (probably 20 min. East of the airport) that has basically a bunch of roadside food stands. Somewhat hit or miss, but a great way to pick and choose what you want to taste as you can see it being prepared.