Fontana Village Resort, Fontana Dam, NC

[Escoffier]

Hidden away in the Great Smoky Mountains and famous for being near the "Tail of the Dragon", Fontana Village Resort doesn't strike you as being the kind of place that might serve outstanding food but to those who know to ask for it, it does a great job.  Known more for being headquarters for hikers on the Appalachian Trail and car and motorcycle buffs who have come to test their driving skills on the Dragon, the dining room serves good basic, Southern type food.  Think fresh trout, and any number of small plates.  However, I wasn't there to sample trout or small plates, I was there to participate in a special dinner prepared by Executive chef Tracy Williams and company.  While anyone can ask for and receive a meal such as we had, very few people take advantage of the many talents of chef Williams. Dinner was prepared for seven lucky diners and served by two dedicated servers.  Each course built on the previous one and the only bad thing about the dinner was that it ended.  

The menu (some comments, some without comments, all extremely well prepared and delicious).

Course One: Scotch Egg. A chorizo wrapped six minute egg, breaded and deep-fried with a red pepper sauce.  Paired with Perfecto Prosecco.  An amazing surprise.  Everyone at the table seemed to attack this with real gusto.  There wasn't a unfinished plate on the table.  Every bite was gone and I heard threats that there might be some plate licking if nobody happened to be watching.

Course Two: Coquille St. Jacques. Baked scallops with a mushroom Gruyere sauce topped with breadcrumbs.  Paired with Mistinguette Brut. The mushroom Gruyere sauce was an excellent accompaniment to the scallops.  There were calls for bread to finish the sauce

Course Three: Trout cakes.  Smoked trout cakes with Creole remoulade.  Paired with Jones Von Drehle Cabernet Franc.  Everyone thinks crab when seafood 'cakes' are mentioned.  These were made with smoked trout and were quite a pleasant surprise.  The smoke complemented but did not overpower the delicate trout.

Course Four: Duck.  Maple-glazed duck over a mushroom risotto cake with a blackberry jalapeno jam.  Paired as above with the Jones Von Drehle Cabernet Franc.  Everyone was getting close to the food fatigue threshold but for some reason there was no duck left anywhere. The blackberry jalapeno jam was an amazing touch and provided just the right amount of sweetness balanced with a hint of spice. 

Course Five: The Pickled Salad. Pickled Red Cabbage, cucumber, carrot, and red peppers with a micro-green garnish.  Paired with a Shelton Riesling.  Maybe the only dish that received lukewarm compliments.  Not for the quality,not for the taste but a couple of people did not like pickled vegetables.  Chacun à son goût. 

Course Six: Dessert.  A Strawberry Cobbler.  Sound pretty pedestrian until you realize that strawberries and cream were mixed into an emulsion and then used as the cream in the batter.  Topped with bits of strawberries.  This might have been one of the best desserts I've had in a very long time.  Paired with a Roumieu-Lacoste Sauterne.

Did I happen to mention that the cost of this dinner was $128 per person?  I'm almost certain I'll be back later on in the year to once again sample chef Williams cuisine, Fontana Village Resort and the area.

You can learn more about Fontana Village Resort, Fontana Dam, and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park by going to www,fontanavillage.com