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zoramargolis

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Posts posted by zoramargolis

  1. Commercial sausages are often made with pre-blended spices that include dehydrated garlic. To me, good quality dehydrated garlic (yes, there is such a thing) tastes very much like roasted garlic. Cheap garlic powder, found in processed foods and snack crackers, is abominable.

  2. FWIW a few times this past summer I've made a vaguely Portuguese-style seafood stew based on my memories of a similar dish at BlackSalt and some tips from Zora.  IIRC I used shrimp stock and fennel stock, linguií§a sausage, fennel, tomato, lots of fresh thyme, saffron, bay leaf, mussels, shrimp, scallops, and whatever fish struck my fancy.  Most people would cook such a dish with lots of onion and garlic, but I can't tolerate them well so generally don't cook with them. 

    This sounds excellent, but I would definitely miss the garlic. Although, if I am not mistaken, linguica has a fair amount of garlic in it--probably dehydrated. Are you better able to tolerate roasted garlic or garlic powder?

  3. A cream or milk-based "New England-style" chowder is most often made with a base of bacon, onion, potato, celery, fish or shellfish broth, cream added and then fish or seafood added after the potato/other veg are tender. The issue is whether it is thickened or not. Personally, I prefer it thin, but in the past, I have made it thickened with a flour and butter roux, with a cornstarch or tapioca starch slurry, or with mashed potatoes. What makes it good or not is the quality of both the stock and the fish, clams or other seafood in it. The ratio of liquid to thickener in a thickened chowder is more a matter of mouth feel than flavor.

    And then, of course, there is bisque--lobster, crab or shrimp--made with shells.

    • Like 1
  4. You mean calcium hydroxide - Ca (OH)2 - I hope, not calcium oxide CaO.  The latter might be fun to play with in a lab but would be a real hazard in the kitchen.

    Thanks. I tend to forget the hydr. My father had a Ph.D. in chemistry, which is why I avoided studying it.

    • Like 2
  5. I'm with Linda. At any Latin grocery store, you'll find tiny envelopes of cal in with the spices. Stir a couple of tablespoons in a cup of water, then add it to the corn and the water covering it, before boiling. It's really not a big deal--it is an alkili, but you don't even need to touch it if you are worried--it is the same powdered limestone used in making cement. If you don't want to keep any on hand, you can dig what's left into your garden to alkalize the soil. But the taste/aroma it provides is essential to making posole. You will smell it immediately--it is the aroma of corn tortillas. It is this treatment, cooking corn with cal, that is called nixtamalization. The outer hull of the corn is gelatinized, so it can be rinsed off. In the process, Vitamin B6 and some amino acids are liberated that make the corn more able to be utilized by the human body, as a complete protein when combined with legumes, and to prevent B6 deficiency--the severe form is called pellagra. When the conquistadors took corn to the old world, unfortunately they did not take the wisdom of the native ancients, who developed the traditional technique of nixtamalization. As a result, the corn that became the food of the poor in much of Europe (and later the American South) was not treated with calcium hydroxide prior to consumption, and pellagra was epidemic.

    I've never tried to remove the hulls from dried corn with baking soda. It wouldn't have the flavor I am looking for. I used to nixtamalize dried corn quite often when making my own masa for tamales. Seriously, if you use your exhaust fan while cooking the corn with cal, it's not unpleasant at all.

    • Like 2
  6. Sunday supper with the niece and nephew

    cheeses, olives, sungold tomatoes, Atwater fennel fig bread, and Fresh Baguette ficelle

    perfect manhattans

    butter lettuce salad with avocado, cucumber, watermelon radish, and lime vinaigrette

    charcoal-grilled eco-friendly chorizo

    fabada, made with pressure cooked gigante beans, bacon, leek, fennel, butternut squash, tomatoes, pimenton, cumin, saffron water, aromatics

    2006 Glorioso rioja

    pear and quince tarte tatin

    sweetened vanilla creme fraiche

  7. Eliz-- get thee to A&H Gourmet Seafood, now with the new name Pesca Deli. Santi makes and sells fish stock and lobster stock, by the quart, cheap. If they've got shrimp with heads, buy some of those, or any shrimp with shells. At home, remove the heads, shells and tails, and simmer them in the defrosted stock with some white wine, onion-carrot-celery, lemon zest, and aromatic herbs, for 20 minutes to half an hour. Strain out the solids.

    While at A&H/Pesca, also get some monkfish or halibut or rockfish, clams, mussels, squid, maybe scallops.

    Back at home, saute onion-leek-garlic in olive oil, add tomatoes in some form, and the wonderful seafood broth you have made. Add a splash of some anise liqueur. And let that simmer, uncovered, with a bay leaf for a good half hour. Add your shellfish, fish cut into chunks, and once the clams and mussels have started to open, any scallops, squid and shrimp and cook just until they are opaque.

    Squeeze in a bit of lemon and a shower of fresh chopped parsley/basil/cilantro whatever you've got that is fresh and green.

    Serve with some crusty bread on the side.

    You have already thanked me.

    • Like 2
  8. Reconnecting over dinner with an old California friend who we haven't seen in more than 25 years...

    eco-friendly pork terrine with cornichons and watermelon radish slices

    selection of cheeses and homemade membrillo

    Bread Furst baguette

    City of Light cocktail

    savory masa corncakes with green chile, cheese, and lime crema

    herb brined, applewood-smoked chicken thighs with ZQ sauce

    grilled cauliflower, roasted red pepper, sungold tomatoes, caper-dill vinaigrette

    rustic plum tart with plum-ginger jam, almond crust and vanilla whipped cream

    2006 Glorioso rioja

  9. albondigas y alubias: an improvisation based on eco-friendly ground pork and fresh cranberry beans. I made meatballs with chorizo-ish flavoring (pimenton, garlic, cumin, parsley, sherry vinegar) and roasted them in the oven. I had some marinara I'd made from fresh tomatoes, which I combined with cooked fresh cranberry beans, smoked eggplant, wild maitake duxelles, and roasted sweet red pepper, white wine, more pimenton, and cumin. When the browned meatballs came out of the oven, I stewed them in the vegetable-bean sauce for a while.

    pan-roasted Brussels sprouts

    canteloupe

    2012 Mas Donis

    • Like 1
  10. wild sockeye salmon burgers, with Asian flavors: ginger, lemon grass, scallion, cilantro, white pepper, lime zest cooked a la plancha and served on crusty rolls with wasabi-ginger-lime sauce (mayo, sour cream, lime juice/zest), grilled onion, avocado, tomato, and butter lettuce.

    grilled bok choy

    bartlett pears

    2012 Botani dry moscato

  11. I had a thoroughly enjoyable meal at Bistroquet tonight. I sat at the bar, which was otherwise unoccupied, but the neighborhood seems already to have embraced this unpretentious newcomer to the Palisades. Most of the white-tablecloth covered tables in the front room were full, and there was quite a bit of action in the back room, as well. How old-school French is Bistroquet, you ask? There was accordion music playing softly on the sound system, and among the array of bottles behind the bar were three different brands of pastis, including Henri Bardouin, my personal favorite.The menu has all of the bistro classics: onion soup gratinee; hanger steak frites; croque monsieur; duck confit; cassoulet. There are a few hints of Thai flavor suggested in several of the sauces. I had the evening special entree--calves liver with shallots, mushrooms and bacon in a red wine reduction. I asked for medium rare and I got it. The thick piece of mild, vein-free liver was seared on the outside and meltingly tender inside, topped with five or six thin slices of crisp bacon--perfectly cooked and served on a very hot plate with a pile of crisp, sizzling hot frites alongside. I chatted briefly with Chef Grenier about the neighborhood competition. He indicated that he thought the best were too expensive, and that he likes to serve generous portions. (The hefty serving of calves liver was only $19.) For dessert, I had a thin cherry clafouti that was topped with silky creme brulee, a classic French two-fer. I was sorry not to have had someone to share it with me, again a very generous portion. Chef Grenier said he lives in the neighborhood and used to take his kids to Listrani's when they were young, some years ago. He said he always hoped to get the space for his own place. In addition to Bistro d'Oc, he also was the chef at La Miche in Bethesda.

    The wines by the glass are all decent--I had a $7.50 glass of rosé--and there is a small selection of French wines by the bottle, with only a few bottles over $40 on the list. the service was friendly and attentive--Chef Grenier himself delivered my plate, just a few minutes after I ordered it. I'm not sure that coming from afar is warranted here, but if you are in the neighborhood or nearby in VA, Cabin John or Bethesda, it is well worth a visit.

    • Like 4
  12. last night:

    sweet red peppers stuffed with ground lamb, basmati rice, smoked paprika, cumin, and a lot of chopped fresh herbs: cilantro, mint, parsley, dill baked in and topped with a fresh tomato marinara

    garlicy sauteed fresh spinach

    little potatoes, boiled, cut in half and crisped in duck fat

  13. Sears sells almost all brands and has reliable installation and repair techs. We've had reasonably good luck with Kenmore appliances, which in the past were mfg'd by Whirlpool--not sure if they still are.

  14. almost meatless Monday:

    lettuce and spinach salad with sungold tomatoes

    fresh cranberry beans stewed with onion sauteed in bacon fat

    cheese grits with corn and golden cauliflower (leftover)

    I haven't eaten any in years, but J had a hankering for Sarah Lee poundcake, so he went up to the store to buy one. served with vanilla ice cream and Catskills elderberry coulis.

  15. You could reduce some down to make a syrup, which will last indefinitely, and take up less space in your fridge. Use that as a base for mulled cider in the winter, to braise pork, pour on waffles.

    Or you can let some of your cider ferment and have hard cider. An old method from Vermont was to let the cider ferment, then put the barrels out during the coldest days of winter. Everything would freeze except the alcohol, which was tapped off and was the tipple that caused people with cabin fever to go after each other with axes--the original applejack. A freezer might work for this.

  16. dinner with visiting cousin

    bread with Maine cheeses: aged raw cowsmilk with ale-washed rind; peppercorn chevre

    2012 Curlew RRV pinot noir

    lettuce and tomato salad with vinaigrette

    applewood smoked kosher chicken thighs with zq sauce

    bbq kidney beans*

    baked cheese grits with fresh corn and golden cauliflower**

    rustic plum tart with almond crust

    *beans pressure cooked for one hour with aromatic herbs and onion sauteed in bacon fat, then simmered ad infinitum with molasses, balsamic vinegar, tomato paste, pimenton, and fresh ginger slices

    **a successful improvised dish created to deal with a disaster: pressure cooking cauliflower at two bars for four minutes results in mush. The mush got mashed and mixed with fresh corn polenta. Sharp cheddar was added, the mixture was poured into a buttered casserole dish and baked with the plum tart. Once a cheese other than reggiano is added to cooked cornmeal, it changes from polenta to grits. Whatever the name, it was delicious.

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