brendanc

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Irwin Mushrooms located in the east Coast Shroom capital of Kennet Square PA is a popular local supplier. There is not a real "gold mine" area for mushroom foraging in the immediate vicinity, and if someone were an enterprising sort they could probably do well to find and harvest mushroom beds in the Shenendoah. Down near Charlottesville, I know there are some folk who forage ramps and morels, but there supplies are limited and rarely make it out of that area.

The last time I was in, I had a magnificent tempura - a mushroom that sounded unfamiliar to me (last two syllables rhymed with geo). Whatever it was, you shrugged it off as being "just a tempura," but a great tempura is a thing of true, albeit transient, beauty: Five minutes after the dish came out, it was a shadow of what it was when it first arrived. What is involved in making and serving a great tempura?

And you're a mushroom hound - do you ever hunt your own? What started you down this path?

The mushrooms in questions are called "piopino" they have a real porcini like fragrance and we just started using them. All tempura should be eaten immediately, as soon as the veggie/seafood begins to sit it steams in the "shell" created by the batter, the longer it sits, mucho soggy.

I used to do a beer based tempura but switched to a more asian style for its crispy-ness(sp) and the fact that it coats in a more lacy manner. Just make sure the consistency of the batter is just enough to coat, not "bread" and fry in clean oil.

I haven't had the opportunity to forage with a true mycologist, but a cook of mine in Middleburg had a wicked chicken of the woods growing at the end of the drive. My enjoyment of mushrooms comes from their innate glutamate proteins, that "fifth" taste. Good boomers are at the same time, earthy, funky, herbaceous and a little sweet, because the caramelize so well. I'm lucky that I can source good mushrooms from four or five good sources in Europe and the Pacific NW.

Brendan, in your Big 3 restaurants - Galileo, Equinox, and Circle Bistro - it seems like you've always had good chefs and sous-chefs to work with, some well known, others less so. Now you have Barry Koslow behind the scenes at Circle Bistro who must surely put your mind at ease on your nights off. Can you say a few words about Barry?

In short there is little chance there is a better individual in DC kitchens today. I am extremely lucky to have Barry here, his passion and attention to detail are second to none. Besides being the best cook in our kitchen he has a way of teaching everyone here that is direct and highly informed, its just his demeanor. He manages my personality without stabbing me which can be difficult sometimes and is overdue a kitchen of his own. No bullshit, he's really f-ing awesome to cook with.

Thanks for agreeing to chat, Chef. Your wild mushroom salad is the one dish this year that I catch myself daydreaming about.

Do you find it more or less difficult to source good produce than good fish or beef?

I think all chefs form a love hate relationship with popular dishes, this one however never seems to get on my bad side. I've sacrificed a menu slot for the salad pretty much in aeternum, so I hope I still like it some time from now.

Good produce in December is a bitch to find, but overall fish can be the most tempermental.

Chef Cox,

How do you feel about preparing a special menu, say four to six courses for a group of "wine nuts" who want something to show off the wines they have but don't want to do the cooking themselves when they get together? Assuming of course, that 1) the restaurant will let them bring in a buntch of fine wines for a readonable corkage fee, and 2) they give you plenty of notice and a free hand to match the menu to the wines that they will be having.

The one thing I am trying to modify here at the Circle is adding a Degustation menu to the menu itself. I came up doing impromptu tasting menus on an almost daily basis at Equinox and believe that we definitely shine the best with this format. Anyone who wants to have us cook for them is welcome to call or PM me. I generally won't charge a corkage in lieu of an increaesed guranteed service charge, so I can make sure my people are taken care of and the guest is satisfied. If it is a small group one day, so I can order some special ingredients is plenty of notice.

Without giving away any of your secrets, can you describe how an aspiring chef develops relationships with these purveyors (and did your time at Galileo and Equinox help you with this?) Also, once the relationship is established, what exactly is involved from the time you pick up the phone until the time the fish goes into the pan? How many times a week do you order and take deliveries?

There are no secrets. We research, talk to other chefs and just make the call. My time at Equinox led me to the majority of the purveyors we use with the addition of several stellar ones that Barry had contact with when he was at Nora. We get deliveries Mon-Sat for meat and produce and Sunday we get only fish. The farmers are here Five days a week if we need them(it only takes three farms/co-ops to fill the week).

Currently I am beginning a search for Country Hams that may lead to a family vacation to this country ham festival in Kentucky in October.

You'd also be amazed at how well feeding the delivery guys ensures prompt service and an extra set of eyes on your product. Jim from Prime Seafood like sthe occasional hamburgere too...

Do you feel that there's any correlation between your conversion to meat and the switch to a more testosterone-based head-banging athletic endeavor such as rugby? More importantly, who's going to win the World Cup this year?

But most of all, THANK YOU for doing this!

Thank you Don for the forum. I can only say that the meat conversion had more to do with the shedding of significant other rather than sport, however she was pissed about the whole meat thing. I sent her a big mac a couple of weeks later. She hasn't spoken to me since.

Brazil is a favorite, but Argentina and my post US flame out team of the moment, the Dutch, are the ones to watch.

Obviously sourcing is a great concern when putting out quality fish dishes. Can you speak a little about your sourcing issues? What type of things would you like to get, but cannot?

Now that you have received your fish, what techniques do you use for cooking fish? Care to share any tips with us?

Thanks for spending the time!

Fish is a fickle mistress. My favorite protein by far to cook, but finding the right fish can be very difficult. I have a great supplier in Jim Chambers from Prime Seafood for some things, but the rest can be a difficult balancing act, each purveyor has a niche that they do very well in, outside of that it's hit or miss.

Depending on the fish serving it raw or barely cooked is the way I enjoy it the best. Poached in oil, steamed over herbs are great choices, buy a bamboo steamer... Just remember that most fish doesn't benefit from being undercooked, only tuna and wild salmon really do well at rare or medium-rare aim fro just barely cooked through.

About your burgers ,

what kind of meat are you using , what is the fat % , do you like the burgers you make, can the bun make an ok burger a good burger is it that important or it is just a bun; doesnt matter ?

Thank you for the opportunity Don and Thanks Chef Brendan.

I use an 80-20 blend of meat to fat of ground chuck. The only thing we do is beat it in a Hobart to emulsify some fat and keep the thing from falling apart, add salt and pepper and go. I've never even begun to approach that bun question, it may be the best burger question yet and I cannot answer it other than to say in the end its just bread. I think our hamburgers tatse good, shoot, all hamburger is by its nature a tasty thing. In all honesty I'd rather see peole ordering more halibut and rockfish.

I don't think it's that ridiculos for some restaurants to block the prime spots. In a town like this where there are so many "important" people. I am sure all restaurants hold back some tables for VIP's or regulars..just in case.

As devil's advocate I think that perhaps we should approach it from another angle. When people are making a reservation so far out, wouldn't it make sense to book the less desirable seatings first, with the knowlege that the prime slot can be filled easily at any time. Not a VIP-held slot, but a more easily fillable one. From a business perspective this would seem to work, as long as the people reserving in advance still take the reservation. This is definitely a luxury scenario for a very desirable restaurant

Alright, who are the wise guys that ate ALL of the bugers and ALL of the softshell before we got there tonight at 8:30? Seriously, that was not funny. The mushroom frisee salad is still great, but that was a colossal dissappointment. Honestly, how did this happen? I thought we told all the tour busses to go to Buca, not CB!

We contemplated trying Dish, but even TS isn't recommending it anymore. We would have gone back to Notti, but for the thread about the great burger AND great softshell. For them to have neither, at 8:30, when the place was nearly empty? Well maybe that's why it was empty.

Currently the soft shells I source are in a period of molting and their availability is a bit spotty, I only deal with one supplier who I trust and will not go outside of them to fill the void, sorry. As for the hamburger you can thank a group of researchers from Fargo or Dubuke for eating 42 at a lunch meeting earlier in the day.

DISH is a hell of a restaurant and everyone here would be wise to check out Tony's American side before the word gets out....

My wife loves this place, however I find it a bit over rated. For some reason, I think the sandwiches or too cold. Just a thought.

Buy sandwich and slice. Drive to home/park/playground, eat slice on way so the wife doesn't find out, sandwich should be room temperature when you arrive.

Circle Bistro is looking for a sous chef, line cook and pastry chef. We are expanding our kitchen staff and need to fill these positions. Ideallly all candidates will have fine dining experience and a passion for their metier. Chronicallly late or disenchanted need not apply.

Even MR on the front issue of Gourmet magazine can't top this coup. Congrats JW on Cat Fancy.

now someone has to pay their pr person.... and here I thought he was holding out for modern bride

Circle Bistro is looking for experienced cooks. We run a lighthearted but very dedicated kitchen and are looking for one or two individuals to work the line. No yelling, good tunes. We welcome refugees from temples of haute cuisine, or anyplace else fro that matter. Chronically late or disenchantged need not apply. call 202.293.5390 or PM me.

Executive chef ad seen in WP jobs section for the Oval Room today so do the math.

All wild caught rockfish are indeed tagged through the mouth with the state waters of origin. The current problems are more of a result in a cycle that has been in existence for some time. The lesions in question are a fungal infection that occurs in Bay stripers, however with a decline in the ecosystemic integrity we can assume that parasitic elements and depletions of populations across the board will continue to magnify. So where we might have a year or two with elevated fungal infections and then a down period, we may not witness that.

That being said, outside of the Bay rockfish is perfectly safe to eat, inside the Bay should be fine as well, but because of the impression of a shortage prices will continue to rise until other fisheries open. Think of Stripers as oil.

Not in any particular order

25 yr balsamic, like 10mL

Perigordine

This really over the top duck fat "bearnaise" in ATL

Ugo Bing Olive Oil

Just a quick note, the original uses margarine, not butter.

Nobu? I mean a chain? you're telling me that Nobu London is a better sushi/whatever fusion thing than, oh I don't know, EVERY RESTAURANT IN JAPAN, or even the US. This is schlock. Although I do concur with the omission of Circle Bistro this year.

This whole episode does bring up one interesting thing about Middleburg. Considering its reputation, its dining choices are, relatively speaking, surprisingly downmarket.

Having lived and worked in the Burg for a year I can honestly say that the preconceived notion of the people who live out there is very wrong. Of course there is a contingent of fabulously wealthy living on manors and such, but the great bulk of the population are residents who have lived there for quite some time and do not have the noveau riche penchant for dining out. I was suprised at the number of "average"(not in a bad way) people in the population. Middleburg is noted for its touristy milleu and has a natural attractiveness for the visiting urbanite, but the people who would make up the base of any restaurants guest list are more likely to dine downscale. I really wish craig and hump ahd been able to make a longer run of things, but the high end diner is notriously absent from the demographic. The other problem being, the town is only 900 strong and the other poplulation centers are spread out across the two counties.

I'm sure these reasons played amuch larger role than the food or service. Hump and Craig are class all the way.

v=glance]Rocco's Five Minute Flavor[/url]

a blow to his female fans everywhere

I tried Wegman's.  Nada.

Maybe the pork guys at Eastern Market can get some for you. Otherwise Mail order is the best bet. I buy mine from a dry goods co. that gets it from Louisiana but they do not have a retail outlet.

Not paranoia, just unclear as to why he's adamant not to review a place until he has been there 3 times, but here he goes and discusses Bazin's before it has a chance to work out the kinks. I agree that 75 minutes is absurd. No one who has taken their business seriously would not see this as something that needs to be corrected (except doctors, like the one I went to today who kept me waiting over 75 minutes).

Maybe "motive" wasn't the right word. More like "purpose." I'll buy some of the PSA argument, but I still don't think it's fair to do more than a mention of any new place before it's been thoroughly reviewed. Then it's time to address all the good and the bad. If excessive waits for those holding reservations continues, then it won't be my first choice.

My visit wasn't perfect either. They need to fix their service path that runs through the middle of the restaurant. I was almost run over by 2 waiters on the way out.

When a new restaurant that is expected to make an impact on the dining scene, or one that is created by a former chef from a popular or well known restaurant opens, Sietsema will be there to preview it for himself soon after it opens. In the past he has done a small write up in the Weekly Dish column. This first visit is the one where he evaluates the restaurant and makes his decision to move forward with a review, wait or not return. Sometimes the WD piece is good, sometimes it is not so good. It will always be honest.

This has been SOP for Tom in the past, and will probably continue. A lot of people out there have probably been asking him about the place incessantly and this was a way to serve his readership. Don't think for a second when a place as anticipated as RC opens he won't be there in the first week. I he publishes the blurb based on his visit, then he does.

When the WD appears if the talk is positive it seems great, but negative comments and everyone screams about fairness. Listen if you open a joint expect criticism in many forms, and when you start charging for food and drink it is open season from Tom, Todd or this entire board.

I was having a conversation with a friend the other night and the subject of Lent and eating out came up. She was saying that she thought all restaurants would take Lent into consideration and have extra meatless choices on Fridays. I didn't think restaurants would pay much attention to Lent or make any changes just for the season. Later it did occur to me to ask about it here. So, is your restaurant aware of Lent? If so, have there been any changes to the Friday menus?

The lenten friday fish phenomenon is not as prevalent as it was ten years ago. Bearing that in mind we do not add meatless choices, but prepare for a greater proportion of fish dishes for those who maintain the tradition

Fried Scrapple and Kraft Cheese on Wonder Bread. Available at Linda's Cafe in Lexington Park, MD

The original Budweiser hails from Vienna and is still brewed there, an entirely different taste sensation.

Afraid my misguided countrymen at SAB have already done quite a bit to poison that well. Despite vowing they wouldn't shift production out of Pilsen, they now have (to Poland, then Russia) and I'd swear they're screwing with the recipe, too.

Happily Czechvar (aka Budvar) still tastes like it's supposed to. Unhappily, its distribution stinks.

If you can find it try Herald I know that have it at Iota in Arlington

The reuben is probably my favorite sandwich: corned beef, swiss, sauerkraut, and either Russian dressing or mustard (my variation) on crunchy grilled rye.  Does any place in DC or the Maryland 'burbs do this sandwich well?  I have suffered through innumerable crappy reubens with soggy bread, cold fillings, flavorless sauerkraut, etc., or reuben panini that get the whole concept wrong wrong wrong.  Worse yet are the "turkey reubens" which should find another name for themselves as they are abominations.

Parkway Deli, Grubb Rd(i think), Silver Spring