Robert Rymarz
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Posts posted by Robert Rymarz
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David Chang, Best Chef NYC
I never would have guessed.
Edited to include. I just can't win.. David Kinch who I'm a huge fan of also got passed up.
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Local winners so far):
Eric Ziebold - Best Chef Mid-Atlantic.
Terry Theise - Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional
Kaysen did win for Rising-Star chef. Categories that include Andres and Richard have not yet been awarded
Kaysen. I called it. Crap!! I'm going to grab a beer and ditch the champagne. Congratulations to him but still crap.
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I am forgiving of a new restaurant that acknowledges mistakes while in the growth period and makes every effort to satisfy the disappointed customer. "Within reason"
Even well run restaurants that have been in business for years have unexpected obstacles because after all were talking about the human element. In new restaurants what seems brilliant on paper may translate to failure in reality and as in many businesses it comes down to trial and error. I mostly focus on how those mistakes are addressed when they occur.
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What is really cool is we can watch it live this year.
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I lived in Bolton Landing years ago. But will try to get some up to date information. Generally would say it's a tough area as most restaurants are tourist traps.
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These awards are no longer about what James Beard's passion for food and have gone completely to awarding personality, sure you will find examples where this is not the case, but those are the exceptions not the rule.
As for Komi, Saturday night was my first meal there and what struck me is that of all of the places I have been to that were nominated for any award Komi, Eve and Blue Hill stand alone as restaurants where the ingredients are more of the star than the egos of the chefs.
If it were still all about the food the awards would not be held at Lincoln Center with one of the bimbos from Sex in the City hosting it.
Amen!
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I certainly am cheering for Johnny Monis. Let me briefly comment why I believe he is most deserving.
First any chef who can essentially turn a neighborhood restaurant into a dining destination comparable to the best in the country is no small accomplishment. And to do it within a few short years without the help of deep pocketed investors and PR groups pushing your name at any opportunity they can is nothing short of remarkable in my book.
I mean no disrespect to David Chang but in part I agree with the above quote. Is he talented? Sure! But is his taking NY by storm a little luck thrown in? Yes, I believe so. Sometimes regardless of how talented you may be it comes down to being in the right place at the right time. Like Thomas Keller driving up to the French Laundry for the first time in the early 90's. He busted his butt for years already but the recognition only came when all the stars aligned that day.
For David Chang his day came way before those who spent years in the kitchen and stages in restaurants throughout the world. I can't pin point how it happened but it did. Maybe his bad boy persona made New Yorkers stop and notice. Who knows for sure. The success Komi has gained has nothing to do with luck. Just passion and real hard work is the core of Johnny's accomplishments.
By far all the chefs nominated with Chef Monis are talented but none do I believe are more deserving. With that said, do I think he will win? As much as I hate to say it. The answer is "No". Like many awards it is about politics.
Gavin Kaysen has the Boulud empire behind him and I've seen him often on morning television like the Today Show and the Early Show. Then we have Matt Molina who has Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali backing him as owners of Mozza.
Nate Appleman is at a very popular SF restaurant also that gets a lot of press attention. Sean Brock may be the only one on the list that like Chef Monis made his own name. But then I like what Gabriel Rucker is doing but think a Beard award may be a bit premature and suspect others do to.
My fingers are crossed for Johnny but suspect Kaysen will win.
Edited to add. Heres hoping Chef Monis can fly under the publicity machine like Chris Bianco did a few years ago and win based on raw talent and accomplishment's.
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I live fairly close to Utica and very glad no one got hurt. Unfortunately the economy in that area can not afford any loss of jobs.
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news:
Well at least there is some hope for Del Posto now.
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The place in Portland is expensive (especially by Portland standards) and really average. Good but not great ingredients, and the pizza didn't have the kind of char that really good pizza has. I was kind of bummed I used one of my meals in Portland on it because it's was nowhere near as good as Two Amy's or Comet and I lost a chance to get something I couldn't get at home (which was DC at the time).
Pizza may very well be the one food item where opinions vary the most. Case in point. I have often read complaints from those who believe Apizza Scholls has to much char on their pizza. It is even addressed on the Apizza Scholls website.
I can't say one way or another because I have not been. But I have heard from those in the industry from pizza makers to nationally known chefs that Brian Spanlger is well respected. Word on the street so to speak is, he is one of a handful of Pizzaiolo's in the country who is fanatical about his product and ingredients. But like I said I have no first hand experience.
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Mount Lebanon
My wife's family is from Mt Pleasant which is practically right next Greensburg. Truly a restaurant dead zone if there ever was one.
But while visiting this past weekend I had a fantastic dinner at Il Pizzaiolo in Mt Lebanon. Really good neapolitan pizzas and a nice choice of pastas. -
Question... has anyone else run into Komi's policy that they only take reservations for 4 or fewer people? I found this odd when attempting to book a dinner for my boyfriend's law school graduation? Is this common knowledge that I was just not aware of? Thanks!
Chef Monis gives explanation here.
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/conte...0400299_pf.html
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Joe Schoendorf had a private party at the French Laundry for his 60th birthday. The thought of what it would cost to close the FL sends chills up my spine.
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I must admit I am also in the dark on the relevance of this. Like those mentioned up thread Komi would have been booked up on a Saturday night regardless of a private party or not.
In the past I have noticed that Johnny will close the restaurant if he cant be there. I admire that. He likely doesn't have half the staff of other top end restaurants in the city, and refuses to compromise quality.
Also I can't speak for Chef Monis but I'm willing to bet that his motivation is not based on any attention from the media or press.
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Of course, the opinion of anyone who would DRIVE 5000 MILES ROUNDTRIP FOR A PIZZA should be taken with a grain of salt.
Yes.. But you should take some credit for temporary loss of sanity.
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Pizzeria Bianco stands as one of the most memorable restaurant experiences I ever had. If time permits I highly recommend it.
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Also must add. This article could have very well applied to New York's newest culinary idol David Chang. But Bruni would not dare go there.
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Why is that ludicrous? Seems like a fine public service to me. Let the readers decide whether there's nothing wrong with the practice. But they should at least be aware of it. And it's not like Fiamma was the first to get called out for jacking up the price after a nice review.
Bruni writes: "In mid-2006, just a few months after I gave the restaurant Country a three-star review, I learned that the price of a four-course prix fixe that gave diners choices within each course had risen to $110 from $85. The restaurant lowered that price after I publicly noted it." (Though he also notes that "the price has since gone up again, as have most restaurant prices over two years’ time. Country now charges $105.")
Like I commented on the Eater article. Restaurants are a business like any other. If Car and Driver magazine picks a vehicle as automobile of the year is it likely the manufacturer will lower the sticker price? Of course not.
Positive reviews by experts in the field = price increase. As in any business the market will dictate the price.
Not only was this old news, but the timing was poor. Right now food prices have drastically increased which no doubt contributed to the increase also. I don't believe Fabio used that as an excuse when he recently addressed Bruni's accusations. And yes, Eleven Madison Park was mentioned in the article but only after the blunt of the accusation was placed on Fiamma.
Also, when restaurants open or have major chef changes menu prices adjust as the restaurant matures. Naturally fantastic reviews have a bearing as many other things also contribute to the adjustment.
PS. And when it comes to Country? I'll withhold comment.
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To point the finger at Fiamma is ludicrous. If diners feel they are not getting their moneys worth the restaurant will ultimately fail. But let them decide in my opinion.
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Anyone know anything about a place called Colors ? I'm apparently eating there this weekend, followed by drinks at Pegu Club. I have high hopes that if they picked Pegu, the folks who picked Colors can't go terribly wrong, am I right?
The employees of Windows on the World are now partial owners of Colors or at least the last I heard. Also read somewhere that it was struggling. Which is a shame as it's a good cause.
http://www.timeout.com/newyork/restaurants...age/3600/colors
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I think the perceived resistance in NY is towards creative food, not creative Italian food. New Yorkers love upscale Italian, witness Carmelli/Batali/Canora et all. None of these chefs are creative in the same way as Trabbuci, but none of them are serving straight up Italian cuisine. WD-50 is the only restaurant of its kind (except Tailor, which is young & may not live), and Liebrant et all have all failed a few times.
Exactly. I could not agree more. You would not think so but the resistance to creative food is alive and well in NY. And with out falling into a argumentative discussion that is the basic point. The review was fine as was previous reviews but I just wish the focus would remain on was the food delicious or not. I am not that naive to think that the 'Is this Italian or not' subject would not come up. But I was hoping it would not be the primary focus.
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Well.... Maybe not Alain Ducasse.
Personally I have no complaints over the review. I am sure the staff are very happy with it.
I just wish the question would not be centered around is it Italian or not. Which has been the topic in the last three reviews by well known critic's
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I can't speak for Joe. But I can only assume his fear is regarding the medias snowball effect mentality in all things when they latch onto one thing specifically. If that is the case I can only assume myself that it would only be a distraction from Chef Trabocchi's talent.
For a great report and photos see link below for a description of my online buddies recent meal.
2008 James Beard Awards
in News and Media
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I apologize for my bummed link. It appeared not to work or at least not for me.