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Cook With The Maestro


ScotteeM

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I tasted the soup today: Quadrucci in Brodo and thought, Could I really make it taste like this at home? It was so clear, so rich, so intricate. Chef Trabocchi made me believe.

He shared his recipe for chicken stock, and the soup, as well as stuffed fried olives, cheese and black pepper cake, Easter lamb (a wonderful lamb stew garnished with fried baby artichokes and sauteed sliced rack of lamb), and sweet Maritozzi--sweet brioche with raisins soaked in anise liquer, cut in half and spread with blueberry jam and filled with a small scoop of house-made ice cream.

I believe!

I can't wait for Mr. S to get home from his trek in Bhutan so I can make the lamb stew and rack of lamb! I can do it!

Today was the third class I've attended at Maestro. The first was breads, and then risotto and pasta, and today was a typical Easter dinner from la Marche.

Chef Trabocchi is a great teacher. His stories are funny and warm, and help us remember the food. He shares the details of working with yeast, and adding ingredients to the mixer so they don't wind up all over the room, and all the secrets to good stock, and the intricacies of freezing meats and how that affects their texture. I have several pages of notes from each class, in addition to the handouts and recipes.

I believe!

Next weekend, I hope to make some chicken stock. And maybe stuff some olives (I couldn't believe I found the big green Cerignola olives at Whole Foods tonight!). Mr. S will be so surprised!

I now understand how to make pasta dough as rich as Chef Trabocchi does. I also understand how to make risotto like he does.

It won't diminish my desire to eat the food that Chef Fabio cooks. But at least I can bring a little of it into my own home.

And I can't wait to get my copy of his cookbook, due out in October.

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Fabio is a treasure. An enormously creative passionate man who lives for his cuisine. We are fortunate that he landed here after London. Washington is that much better because of him.

Have you made his Grappa risotto? Incredible presentation in the restaurant where they "pour" Grappa in a little puddle in the middle of the risotto!

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He shared his recipe for chicken stock, and the soup, as well as stuffed fried olives, cheese and black pepper cake, Easter lamb (a wonderful lamb stew garnished with fried baby artichokes and sauteed sliced rack of lamb), and sweet Maritozzi--sweet brioche with raisins soaked in anise liquer, cut in half and spread with blueberry jam and filled with a small scoop of house-made ice cream.

Care to spread the wealth of knowledge?

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Today was the third class I've attended at Maestro.  The first was breads, and then risotto and pasta, and today was a typical Easter dinner from la Marche.

I also went to the pasta class a few weeks back. Interesting recipes, especially a stuffed and baked rigatoni with a hint of cinnamon in the sauce. I've never had better pastas than my two meals there and now I see why. Recipes that are just different from anything else you see.

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One difference in his pasta recipe from others I've seen (and I'm certainly not an experienced pasta-makerk) is that he uses nearly 3 dozen egg yolks and 1/4 cup of whole milk for 4 cups of 00 flour. This makes a very rich dough, and he feels that using 36 yolks makes an easier dough for beginners to handle. He also recommends using free-range organic eggs.

His lamb stew is a basic braise, finished just before serving with a mixture of eggs, breadcrumbs, grated parmesan, grated lemon zest, and finely chopped parsley, which thickens the liquid and gives the dish a rich, luxurious texture. By cutting the lamb shoulder into small pieces before cooking, the stew becomes the texture of a sauce for the sliced rack of lamb.

Chef Trabocchi also emphasizes the importance of using the best quality ingredients available. He advocates using organic and free-range products whenever possible, and of course, real Italian cheese from Italy.

His recipe for the cheese and pepper bread, which is almost the consistency of a cake, uses fresh yeast (or active dry yeast) and 00 flour. Some of his ingredients and techniques seem a little fussy, but I think the results justify the fussiness.

I'm not sure about the copyright implications of sharing the recipes, so I'm hesitant to post them. His book will be published in October (I've already ordered my copy from Amazon), and all the recipes demonstrated in the classes come from the book.

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Now that I have my reservations secured, I'm happy to share the news for anyone who missed it in the WP Weekend section on Friday: Maestro has announced three more cooking classes for May, June and July. Here's the link to the article, which also lists cooking classes at Gallileo, Citronell, Kaz Sushi Bistro, Gerard's Place, and Equinox.

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