With all the positive postings here, my wife and I had high expectations for Central when we dined last Friday but ended up leaving less than impressed... so much so that its inspired my first post [okay technically my second post]. In my opinion, even Michel Richard's take on bistro food is not worth the prices he's asking. Overall, most of the food was well prepared, but nothing really stood out and some dishes really disappointed. The scene was also a bit much for what's supposed to be a bistro.
We started with the gougeres and tuna carpaccio. The gougeres were light and boring. I expected more flavor and was a bit underwhelmed. While the gougeres were underwhelming, the tuna carpaccio was overwhelming. It came floating in the asian sauce. The excessive use of asian sauce (maybe it was accidental) ruined the tuna. The plate was a pond of sauce, and we joked that the tuna had expanded from absorbing so much of the sauce that every bite was like squeezing a wet sponge filled with soy sauce in our mouths. Not exactly how I want to imagine eating my tuna carpaccio.
For our entrees, we ordered the lobster burger and the lamb shank with polenta. The lamb shank was well prepared and tender. The polenta was unexpected and, combined with the sauce (one dish I don't mind too much sauce), was probably one of my favorite parts of the meal. Overall, I liked the choice for the money but did not find it extraordinary. On the other hand, if you're going to charge $28 for a lobster burger, it better be out of this world. Being New Englanders originally, we tend to like lobster as simply prepared as possible so this may be a wrong choice for any lobster purist. We both agreed that the burger was interesting to try but a bit mushy. While the fries were crisp and perfectly salted, the potato and bun just detracted from the lobster. I'll take the lobster roll at Hanks for $17 any day over the lobster burger.
We ended with the Le Kit Kat. It lived up to the hype and was definitely the best kitkat bar I've ever had. Pretty much licked the plate clean.
I thought the wine selection was good but having to ask for the Bourdeaux glasses was tacky. Maybe that's the point being styled a bistro. But, my feeling is if you have 'em, use 'em. Don't make your customers ask.
We liked the open kitchen and the hanging charcuterie, but neither of us were big fans of the minimal decor, especially the wooden tables. Maybe the thinking was that customers would wear enough gucci and chanel that the restaurant didn't need any decor. We saw more high-end clothing and accessories than you could find in a Neiman Marcus. Its probably not too outlandish to claim that Central has established itself as the downtown version of Cafe Milano. All in all, we thought we could have better spent our $140 if all we were looking for is a bistro meal. It may be worth a visit for lunch, but if its Michel Richard that you want, seek out Citronelle instead.
