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The Ketchup Conundrum: New Yorker article from Malcolm Gladwell


KMango

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When worlds collide!

Articles this long can be an eye strain to read on screen, so I recommend downloading and printing the .pdf:

The Ketchup Conundrum

I am delighted to post this Malcolm Gladwell piece, which is typically not something you would find on a food-focused board. I ran into it via my Kindle reading of What The Dog Saw; this is one of several essays contained within that compilation.

The article hails back from 2004, and offers a fascinating dive into notions of consumer choice and palate physiology. Sections 4 and 5 provide fresh glimpses into market research practices, flavor amplitude studies, and the history behind America's favorite condiments.

(in heinz)

(we trust?)

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Two weird omissions: One, Heinz created a similar "ez squeeze" when they were marketing toward children back in 2000 - I have always wondered why they got rid of the bottle design when it was perfected for children already; and two, it was their marketing failure (one that I miss dearly) of blue, green and various "flavors" of ketchup that was omitted and not Ragu's.

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The big FMCG (fast-moving consumer good) companies like Heinz, Kraft, Nestle, P&G and the like have long owned huge numbers of overseas brands. Sometimes the recognizable western company's name/brand will appear on a package; sometimes not.

Ketchup, BTW, is one of the last bastions of high-fructose corn syrup. If you look at the ketchup bottles in nearly all "better" burger places, whether gourmet, big/messy or otherwise, Heinz or Hunts are ubiquitous. And they all contain HFCS. I love when I find a place that makes its ketchup or tomato salsa in house but that's still unusual.

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"Simply Heinz" ketchup has no HFCS. I've been buying it for a while now. It's a little more expensive.

Thanks. Didn't know that. I'm not sure I've ever seen it at a burger joint or place though. And I usually make it a point to stare at the ingredient list on any ketchup bottle before I hold my nose and squeeze.

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