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Stockholm


MODWOP
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Use the Silja line as your hotel for two of the nights, boarding at 5 PM or so, enjoying a leisurely buffet dinner as you overlook the stunning Gulf of Finland, and waking up the next morning in Helsinki for a day trip. Late that afternoon, board the ship again for your return voyage, and you're back in Stockholm the next morning. The food on the buffet is really pretty decent, as these things go, the downside being that it loses a bit of its charm on the second evening. Still, you get to see Helsinki without losing any time to travel.

Cheers,

Rocks

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Food:

Smörgí¥stí¥rteriet: Great fancy Swedish cuisine in a rustic/casual atmosphere.  We had a late reservation and (I think because we were the last table) they refused to do the full tasting menu.  Why even offer the late reservation?  Ugh.  That said, a great meal.  And they definitely win the coveted "most diacritical marks in a restaurant name" award.

Kryp In: Twists on classic Swedish fare, very well-prepared.  In the touristy part of town: be prepared to hear English spoken at all of the tables around you.

Tranan Odenplan: This is the Swedish equivalent of a French bistro.  Come here if you are in need of comfort: toast skagen, oysters, herring.  And incredible octopus.

Oaxen Slip: We found out about Oaxen late and thus were unable to get a reservation at Oaxen Krog (the fancier tasting menu version).  Our lunch at Slip was still really phenomenal.

Sturehof: Lots of business lunches and dinners happen here.  They have crawfish by weight.  A half-kilo is a totally normal amount for one person to consume, said nobody except me.

Frantzén: Best meal of our trip.  Better than Fäviken, better than Noma.  Fucking incredible.  And they have a beer bar across the street so the beer pairings are fanstastic.

Beer:

Mikkeller Bar: Really great.

Fjäderholmarnas Bryggeri: Fun little brewpub on an island in the Stockholm archipelago (the closest and thus easiest island to get to).  Well worth spending a couple of hours on this island: the smokehouse has very good smoked shrimp.

Coffee:

Johan & Nystrom

Kafé Esaias

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Oaxen Slip: We found out about Oaxen late and thus were unable to get a reservation at Oaxen Krog (the fancier tasting menu version).  Our lunch at Slip was still really phenomenal.

I wouldn't call our dinner at Oaxen Slip phenomenal but it was still quite satisfying, especially the lamb shoulder stew and grilled squid.  Plus they had high chairs.  On the cheap eats front, the travel guide raves for Nystekt Stromming's fried herring plates are well-deserved!  Great comfort food, which we had to eat right outside the subway stop in the pouring rain.

Johan & Nystrom was closed when we stopped by but erin79 enjoyed the espresso drinks at both Drop and Mean Coffee.

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