Jump to content

Terry Theise in NY Times


Recommended Posts

I’m a Champagne man when it comes to bubbly; with few exceptions, other sparkling wines leave me flat. Mr. Theise added a new item to my list of exceptions with his Gobelsburg nonvintage reserve, a silky blend with a soft mousse, made from grüner veltliner (70 percent), riesling (15) and pinot noir (15). Without prompting, I would have had no clue what I was drinking.

Last time I was at Terry's, he served me that Schloss Gobelsburg sparkling Gruner Veltliner double-blind. Okay, now in my lifetime, he has served me approximately 4,719 sparkling wines, and every single one of them has been a Champagne. What was I to think? Well, one thing I did notice is that the mousse wasn't that fine, meaning that the bubbles seemed a bit large, and they rose to the top of the glass quickly - not to the degree of some Cavas and Proseccos, which are often club-soda fizzy and coarse, but still enough so that I noticed. Nevertheless, I thought sure it was a Pinot Meunier-based Champagne of pretty high pedigree, mainly because it had this caroway thing going on in the nose. I loved the wine, and remember commenting that only a Champagne could be any better than this.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...