Tomato and Veal Pasta Sauce

[porcupine]

This isn't an emergency - I have a few days. But...

An old recipe (origin unknown) for a tomato and veal pasta sauce calls for veal shoulder, finely cut up, browned in a pot, mixed with various sauteed aromatics and tomato , etc.

As I recall, the result was good but could've been better. I'm thinking maybe roasting or braising the meat whole (I have a two pound boneless piece) and then shredding into the sauce, to better develop the flavor of the meat.

What do you all think? How should I go about it? Thanks.

[Pat]

This isn't an emergency - I have a few days. But...

An old recipe (origin unknown) for a tomato and veal pasta sauce calls for veal shoulder, finely cut up, browned in a pot, mixed with various sauteed aromatics and tomato , etc.

As I recall, the result was good but could've been better. I'm thinking maybe roasting or braising the meat whole (I have a two pound boneless piece) and then shredding into the sauce, to better develop the flavor of the meat.

What do you all think? How should I go about it? Thanks.

Perhaps this might be of some interest. When I make the tomato pork sauce for the Mardi Gras pasta I mentioned elsewhere, the recipe calls for the boneless pork loin to be cut into thick slices (maybe 6 slices for 2 lbs.) Those slices get browned, simmered in the sauce and then shredded later on. That might be a middle approach between browning the meat whole and cutting into small pieces. I always find the flavor of this sauce wonderful, and I suspect that the multiple surfaces of the meat being browned at the beginning have something to do with the depth of the flavor.

[jparrott]

Depends on the pasta shape, methinks. Think about how the shreds (and no matter how finely you try to chop it, it will have a shreddy texture) will work with the chosen pasta shape.

Instead of roasting the veal, I might just incorporate some veal stock/brown chicken stock into the sauce to get that extra meatiness and body.

[zoramargolis]

Maybe you could think of it like a classic Bolognese, where the meat has been previously potroasted (braised) and then shredded or ground for the sauce.

I would brown and then oven braise the veal in a stock-wine mix with aromatic veg and herbs at low temp for a couple of hours. It doesn't have to be super tender, because it will be ground and re-cooked in the sauce the next day. You can strain, reduce and use the braising liquid in the pasta sauce or save it for another dish.

[monavano]

I like Zora's approach and would add tomato paste for depth of flavor.

[porcupine]

In case anyone wants to know how I made the tomato and veal sauce recently discussed in the Kitchen 911 thread, here it is. Please note: amounts are approximate.

Brown a 2lb boneless veal shoulder in oil; add half an onion, a carrot, a celery stalk, and chicken stock to halfway up the meat; cover and braise in oven a few hours until very tender and easily shredded.

In a large pot cook one finely chopped yellow onion, six finely chopped carrots, five finely chopped celery stalks in a good amount of olive oil. Add: the braised veal, shredded; four 28 oz cans ground tomato; the strained stock from the braised veal; about a cup of mushroom broth (soak dried porcini in hot water, squeeze, and strain); a few cloves minced garlic, and good handful parsley, finely chopped; some basil, oregano, salt, pepper; some finely chopped roasted red bell pepper; cook uncovered at a simmer until nicely reduced. Add a good glug of the red wine you're serving with dinner and season to taste.

Wish I knew what inspired this recipe. I found it on an old index card, clearly from my "more is better" phase of cooking. (My tastes are simpler now; basic marinara is my preference. Even better is coarsely chopped just-off-the-vine fruit tossed with just-picked basil, olive oil, garlic, and hot fettucine.) I do believe braising the veal made a big difference in the taste.

The final use for this sauce is on a four-cheese lasagne, now in the oven awaiting my guests.