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Levantine Meat Pies


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About a year an a half ago, a strange little place called "Tuscany Grapes Cafe" opened on Lee Highway in Falls Church, behind the 7-11 across from the big cemetery. I have no recollection of why I happened in there one night with my girlfriend, but it was clear that they had just opened (possibly that night). Aside from a few common Middle Eastern appetizers like hummus, the posted carry-out menu reflected a bad strip mall pizza and sub joint, as did about half of the restaurant, which was basically a pizza counter and kitchen. The other half of the place was an open dining room, once appropriate to the pizza counter, but now adorned with a handful of Middle Eastern artifacts and some hookahs.

The "staff" consisted of three guys sitting in the dining room talking. When we walked in, one got up to meet us, gave us a gracious welcome, and showed us to some seats in the back. It was late for a weeknight and we were the only customers in the restaurant, which looked like either it had been cleaned for the night or we were the first customers of the day (or ever). I was regretting the decision to enter until our "waiter" (who, as it turns out, owned the place) reappeared with the menus. As expected, the dining menu matched the carryout menu. However, a single, typewritten sheet had also been inserted, offering "Tuscany Grapes' Pies" with various fillings. Our server described these as "Lebanese pizza" and enthusiastically suggested we try one. I took the recommendation and ordered a pie with beef filling.

Our strange experience had so lowered my expectations that anything edible would have surprised me. But the meat pie I got was good. Really good. Food Network's "The Best Thing I Ever Ate" good. It was round dough, about the size of a medium pizza and similarly sliced, layered with ground, spiced meat, and topped with another thin layer of dough. I asked our server the proper name of the dish and immediately forgot his response. I still have no idea what it’s called, but, after a little research, I think it was most likely a version of sfiha, or lahm bi'ajīn, or lahmajoun, which may or may not all be the same thing.

We went back to Tuscany Grapes a couple of times after that and only ever got the meat pie and the Middle Eastern appetizers, which were always very good. Each experience was as strange as the first and my girlfriend and I were always the only customers. A few months later, my girlfriend moved (ironically) to Ramallah for work and, because I was convinced that the quality of the food was in direct proportion to the owner’s fondness for my girlfriend, I stopped going to Tuscany Grapes.

When the girlfriend recently returned to my life (she actually returned to the States some months ago…it’s kind of a long story) one of my first thoughts was to take her to Tuscany Grapes for another meat pie. (I know, I’m terribly romantic…and did I forget to mention that she’s a vegetarian? I said it was a long story.) I was greatly disappointed to discover that Tuscany Grapes is gone. So, now my quest has begun. Not only must I identify the strange, yet wonderful, meat pie that I remember, I must also find a good version of it.

Anyone have any ideas?

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Get thee immediately and post-haste to Mediterranean Gourmet Market on Franconia Road, roughly between Springfield Mall and Kingstowne. You will tuck into the best manakish in the metro area. By a long shot. My favorite happens to be the manakish bel zaatar, and if your girlfriend is vegetarian, she will love it. There is also a spinach manakish that you will love, but your meat pizza is the lahmeh b'ajeen. Try them all, and be happy.

A distant second is the Mediterranean Bakery on Pickett in Alexandria. Not bad if you're in the neighborhood, and one of the best places to score olive oils and hot sauces in the area.

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About a year an a half ago, a strange little place called "Tuscany Grapes Cafe" opened on Lee Highway in Falls Church, behind the 7-11 across from the big cemetery. I have no recollection of why I happened in there one night with my girlfriend, but it was clear that they had just opened (possibly that night). Aside from a few common Middle Eastern appetizers like hummus, the posted carry-out menu reflected a bad strip mall pizza and sub joint, as did about half of the restaurant, which was basically a pizza counter and kitchen. The other half of the place was an open dining room, once appropriate to the pizza counter, but now adorned with a handful of Middle Eastern artifacts and some hookahs.

When the girlfriend recently returned to my life (she actually returned to the States some months ago…it’s kind of a long story) one of my first thoughts was to take her to Tuscany Grapes for another meat pie. (I know, I’m terribly romantic…and did I forget to mention that she’s a vegetarian? I said it was a long story.) I was greatly disappointed to discover that Tuscany Grapes is gone. So, now my quest has begun. Not only must I identify the strange, yet wonderful, meat pie that I remember, I must also find a good version of it.

Anyone have any ideas?

Yes, I have an idea. Call me sappy, but especially because yesterday was your birthday, I think this is a beautiful story ... that's my idea. Do try the Armenian Meat Pies at Arax Café which definitely aren't the same thing (they aren't topped with dough, for example), but may surprise you as one of our area's great culinary treasures all the same. Thanks for having written this. Cheers, Rocks

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