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Details' List of the Best American Pies


Meaghan

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If you liked that list, you'll love the book. Levine and his cohorts completed a monumental task in rooting out great and unusual pizza styles all across the US, and manage to tell the stories of hundreds of pizzerias and pizzaiolos (good and not-so-good) in a few paragraphs each. This is now one of the references I consult before planning a trip in the US (along with the Intrepid Traveler thread, natch).

It is not without flaws, some serious. He recognizes only a narrow range of variation in what he calls pizza. While he includes St. Louis pizza, he completely shuns Chicago, both deep-dish and stuffed. For lovers of flat pies however, this is THE reference on where-to-find-it.

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If you liked that list, you'll love the book. Levine and his cohorts completed a monumental task in rooting out great and unusual pizza styles all across the US, and manage to tell the stories of hundreds of pizzerias and pizzaiolos (good and not-so-good) in a few paragraphs each. This is now one of the references I consult before planning a trip in the US (along with the Intrepid Traveler thread, natch).

It is not without flaws, some serious. He recognizes only a narrow range of variation in what he calls pizza. While he includes St. Louis pizza, he completely shuns Chicago, both deep-dish and stuffed. For lovers of flat pies however, this is THE reference on where-to-find-it.

The means by which he blasts Ella's and, to some extent, Matchbox on their knowledge of ingredients is classic.

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For me Santarpio's has Boston's best pizza, in part because of the ambience. My wife did not really like it or the original Regina in the North End.

I disagree with his listing of Phoenix's Pizzaria Bianco as the world's best. It is, indeed, outstanding. I'm still partial to New Haven but believe the world's best is not in Naples but in Rimini at La Pergola.

"Hometown" pizzas like Imo's, Arcaro and Gemelli's (Old Forge, PA), Dayton, OH (several places), Victory Pig (Forty Fort, PA) and others have no place or real merit in his book. These are all pizzas which are unique and have a special place for those who grew up with them. The local example is the original Ledo's in Hyattsville along with Pizza Pantry in Arlington) But, I think, they really are a step or more below the ones he focuses on. Wells Brothers, several in Chicago (Uno's, Due's, Gino's East, Lou Malnatti, Giordano's) and the new Comet here are legitimately excellent for what they are but they are not traditional pizzas.

Still, over the years, I've been to most of the places in his book. And a number that he did not write about. Like my wife who has had many of the pizzas (crab cakes, ribs and much else) that I have had, there is still no common agreement on what is the best. Even when having the same pie.

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For me Santarpio's has Boston's best pizza, in part because of the ambience. My wife did not really like it or the original Regina in the North End.

I disagree with his listing of Phoenix's Pizzaria Bianco as the world's best.

Levine's list isn't of the worlds best. This is just in the United States according to one guy. I won't be able to join in the fight to find out what the best pizza in the world is in this lifetime.

PS: Don--

Ed Levine.

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Levine's list isn't of the worlds best. This is just in the United States according to one guy.

PS: Don--

Ed Levine.

This is from the link above: "Of course, if it were simple, anyone could do what Bianco does, which is make the best pizza in the world."

In his book he also says this before arriving in Italy for a pizza eating binge: "what if Neopolitan pizza isn't as good as pizza I love the most in the States: Chris Bianco's and Totonno's and Sally's and Pepe's in New Haven?" In particular he notes that there was only one of about 15 pizzas he had in Naples that had a "crust that could be described as crisp." Further, "what I found is that the Neopolitan culture of pizza is in many ways more interesting than the pizza itself."

There was ONE pizza that he liked in his Rome and Naples binging: "with the possible exception of L'Europeo none were exceptional enough to have me swearing off Pepe's or Sally's or Totonno's." Reading the entire chapter, however, I don't think he would have given this four pies if he had rated it (which he didn't).

He also says in the book, "my favorite pizza in America is grilled pizza at Al Forno, in Providence." (He didn't discuss Caserta's which many locals prefer.)

The pizza in Rimini (La Pergola) that I feel is the best I've ever had does have a crisp crust. It also has a wall, floor to ceiling and 8 feet high, of newspaper and magazine clippings (all in Italian) that I think call it the best pizza in Italy. Until our visit there a month ago I thought New Haven was better than any pizza I've had in Italy which is probably even more than what he has tried. I've been travelling there regularly on business for 25 years and have had pizza everywhere I've gone including several in Naples (Trianon, Brandi, da Michele; I have not been to "L'europeo.). Generally, Italian pizza is NOT as good as pizza in America. It is different. In Italy, I should add that most if not all Italians believe that there is NOWHERE in America for one can find good pizza.

These are the pizzas which he gives "four pies" to in his book (I have been to all but Una Pizza Napoletana):

Pepe's (New Haven)

Sally's (New Haven)

Totonno's (Brooklyn-I disagree with him on this)

Di Fara's (Brooklyn-Jim Leff called this his favorite; I think it is the best pizza in NY.)

Pizzaria Bianco (Phoenix)

Nick's Pizza (Forest Hills, NY, Second Avenue, Rockville Centre, NY)

Una Pizza Napoletana (NYC-I have not been to this and want to go-badly; it is the only one of these I have not been to)

Lombardi's (Manhattan)

The following are "four slices" for pizza sold by the slice:

Patsy's (Harlem location only)

Sullivan Street Bakery (NYC)

King Umberto (for "Grandma pizza")(next to Belmont racetrack on Long Island)

In his book Two Amy's has three and a half pies, Pizzaria Paradiso two and one half. No other pizzarias are rated. Modern (in New Haven) has three and a half. The Spot (which has a coal oven next to Pepe's-it is the "original" Pepe's) is not rated either. Grimaldi's, at the foot of the Brooklyn Bridge receives two and a half pies.

Edited by DonRocks
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There was ONE pizza that he liked in his Rome and Naples binging: "with the possible exception of L'Europeo none were exceptional enough to have me swearing off Pepe's or Sally's or Totonno's." Reading the entire chapter, however, I don't think he would have given this four pies if he had rated it (which he didn't).

The Margarita pie I had at Una Pizza Napoletana reminded me of Il Pizzaiuolo (where I will be having lunch a week from Wednesday), but not quite that good. It is too bad that there are so few places left that can use coal ovens.

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Ah, Il Pizziola!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I forgot about it! I am SERIOUSLY JEALOUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think this is the second best pizza in Italy that I have had behind La Pergola in Rimini.

This means you'll probably go back to Sostanza, too.....and bread soup...and

______________________

Steve, when you are there look for a bottle of the '01 Tenuta Sant Antonio La Bandina which I wrote about on another thread. It's Euro 18 a bottle! (What I paid in Soave and Verona) This is not a great wine, but it is a very, very good wine especially for the price. I am certain it will be even better in Italy (as opposed to having been shipped on a boat for two or three weeks to the U. S. If you do find it, please try it and let me know what you think of it. Have a great trip!

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As soon as we check in we are heading to Il Pizzaiuolo for a pizza and beer. Since I have not been to La Pergola, it is the best pizza I have ever had, there are no also rans. I am just not sure what kind I am going to get, I like simple, so I might just get a plain pie with some speck draped across it after it comes out of the oven.

We are only going to be there for a few what amounts to a long weekend. This is a business trip that I get to tag along for. We have reservations at Sostanza, and Ceibro (sp?), and another place the hotel recommended. I will definitely look for that wine, since I will have plenty of time to eat and drink my way through town. I am also looking forward to trying a tripe sandwich that Dean hoped to try on his last trip.

Now back to pizza....

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How about making this a dialectic pizza thread? Jonathan and I were talking about pizza the other day (he thinks 2 Amy's is overpriced and over-rated; I disagree), and he reminded me about the WORST pizza we've ever had. We were driving across country in the mid-70's and pulled off the interstate in a small town in Kansas. We were starving and there weren't many options open, so we ended up at a Pizza Hut--my first and last time. I knew we were in trouble when we ordered "plain pizza" which was the cheapest one on the menu and the waitress asked: "You want cheese on that? It's extra."

Q: You charge extra for cheese?

A: That's a cheese pizza.

Q: What is a plain pizza, then?

A: Crust and tomato sauce.

A couple sat down next to us and ordered a "hamburger pizza" when we were almost ready to leave. As we were paying at the cashier, we watched their pizza being made. A frozen pizza crust was removed from a cold box. The "chef" reached into a container of crumbly cooked hamburger meat, spread it over the crust and slid it into a pizza oven. No tomato sauce. No cheese. That would have been extra, I assume, and specified at the time it was ordered. The waitress didn't ask them if they wanted sauce or cheese. Regular customers, perhaps. But ever since, anytime anyone in our family requests plain pizza, we of course ask: "You want cheese on that?"

:)

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