Risotto

[Choirgirl21]

If I wanted the most authentic risotto being cooked in the city (and surrounding MD/VA areas), where would you send me?

[DonRocks]

If I wanted the most authentic risotto being cooked in the city (and surrounding MD/VA areas), where would you send me?

To wherever Cesare Lanfranconi is cooking it.

Unfortunately, I last saw him at Lia's, where his pastas were dumbed down, and I seriously doubt he would be making your risotto there. Nevertheless, the best risotto I've had in this area was stirred by his spoon.

I'm certain Roberto Donna can make you a fantastic risotto, but will he?

As you know, this is an incredibly labor-intensive dish, where timing means a lot, and for a restaurant to serve good risotto, they almost need to have a dedicated risotto cook. Once you have the recipe, and some basic training, an attentive line cook can make a terrific risotto, but all that means is that it *can* be done; I don't have an answer for you.

If I had to roll the dice, I would try Tosca, even though I haven't been there in far too long.

Though it's dated, please also see our Vegetarian Risotto thread.

[Joe H]

Roberto.

[DonRocks]

Roberto.

Joe, I'm not sure I like this answer.

Are you sure Roberto is even making risotto right now? This isn't about what somebody can do (we all know Roberto can make electric-chair risotto); it's about where to find it in an actual situation.

[Joe H]

I'm not sure which nights he is in which restaurants although I believe that most weeknights he is at Al Dente.  If he is there-whether he makes it or oversees it, it will be exemplery.  I've had several lobster risottos made by his chef de cuisine and they were perfect.  No idea what it is like if Roberto isn't looking over his shoulder but these were outstanding dishes.  I've also been to Roberto's Four (now Eight) twice and both times there were risottos, once La Tur and the other, I believe, with black truffle.  Those, like when he was at Laboratorio, were made by him standing on the other side of the counter.

I honestly believe that with Roberto in the kitchen-making it or overseeing it- his risotto is as good as you will find anywhere.  To the best of my knowledge both Amy at Alba and Al Dente have a risotto made every night.

The key here, Don, is to somehow get a reservation for Roberto's Eight which is almost impossible since it is so few nights and he is only taking reservations a month or so out.  I must also mention there was a "Rockwell" dinner that he did a couple of weeks ago and I was surprised that there was no mention of it on here.  The two Roberto's Four dinners we did were extraordinary Laboratorio like events.  I know that he really enjoys the intereaction of cooking so closely and sharing with his guests.

Just wondering if anyone could report on them?

[Tujague]

Bibiana would be a good bet.

[Joe H]

Here is the link to a post which Chowhound once labelled "the most notorious post of all time."  It was my risotto post from twelve years ago which, over time, elicited 264 responses in the above thread and a half dozen more threads related to it.  Generally, I was rigid, inflexible and didn't want to hear of anyone changing my recipe before it was made the first time.  I know too many people who cook: who look at a recipe and then change a few things (some important) and then complain when they don't like it.

I went into detail on exactly how it was to be made.  Extreme notorious detail.

The recipe was also inspired by Roberto.  I took it from his original in his first cookbook and tweaked a few minor things.

Twleve years later I still make it-it is fantastically rich-the kind of dish that you'll get 16 servings out of, each small with 6 to 8 bites but it is perfect for this.

Roberto's La Tur risotto was every bit as good.

I would sincerely suggest going to Al Dente one night when he has Roberto's Eight, introduce yourself and ask him if he can make a risotto specially for you.  Either he will or he will have Fabio his chef de cuisine make one.  Ask for his lobster risotto-it is, as Don says, "electric chair."

[Choirgirl21]

Huh, well this is not what I expected. I thought there would be a lot of suggestions. I was preparing myself for a risotto crawl.

[DaveO]

The best risotto I ever had was by a friend whose MIL, native Northern Italian, taught her to cook.  This woman was an astonishing cook.  Seeing this thread has me aching for her risotto and other dishes.  A.C.H.I.N.G.   She has long departed this area.

Joe's piece and comments suggest I need to visit Roberto.

[Choirgirl21]

How quickly could we pull together a DR risotto cooking class with Roberto? I'm thinking he cooks while we drink Italian wine and listen to him spill his deepest, darkest risotto cooking secrets and then we eat it. Simple enough, no?

[DonRocks]

How quickly could we pull together a DR risotto cooking class with Roberto? I'm thinking he cooks while we drink Italian wine and listen to him spill his deepest, darkest risotto cooking secrets and then we eat it. Simple enough, no?

It can happen quickly, I'm sure.

Risotto is simple to make - once you know the fundamentals, it's a matter of "when to do what."

When I've played "robot" and stirred my friend Jim G's risotto, I'd do just fine - until about the last minute, when he'd say, "Okay, let me take care of this now," and I'd step aside as he'd time it, literally, to the correct second.

[MsDiPesto]

The more you make risotto, the more you can 'push the envelope'. I had read that restaurants make it halfway through the stir/add broth process earlier in the day. I've tried doing that and it stands up pretty well to such abuse. 

[dwt]

It has been a long time since we've been, but I recall Chef Diotaiuti stirred up a very nice risotto at Al Tiramisu. Note that the prep changes (risotto del giorno) and that it's one of the "market price" items on the menu.

The risotto accompanying an Osso Buco special at Sergio in Silver Spring was remarkably good. Unfortunately, it's not often on offer.

[Justin Bittner]

At 8407 Kitchen Bar we use carnaroli to make risotto( served with ramps and parm right now) and I have the guys rinse it well before we make it because I don't like how it turns out otherwise. Then we sauté onions and a bay leaf add in rice to lightly toast and have hot water ready to add in 2 stages. We boil it pretty hard to crack the grains to release inner starch. Stirring all the while and adding water as needed. When it's still al dente it's poured onto a sheet tray and "cut" with a wooden spoon to help it cool faster. Order comes in butter shallots and garlic hit the pan then the rice a quick stir then water ramps and parm, reduce till tight butter more cheese and a fresh handful of ramps salt to taste and plate. Not saying that's the only way to do it, just our way.

[Choirgirl21]

Two questions:

1.  What is the proper consistency for risotto?  On Top Chef Tom Coliccio says is should be runny and spread/flow over the plate when you put it down (not sit up in a pile like rice).

2.  Do you have to constantly stir it the entire time you cook it?  I've heard that said many times, but recently I read an article or website or recipe that said something like "contrary to popular opinion you DO NOT have to constantly stir it to make a proper risotto.  I learned how to make it the proper way in Italy and........"

There's a lot of good discussion about this over in the Shopping and Cooking thread.

I wonder about the consistency for the same reason. We tried to go to a Risotteria when I was in Vicenza last month, but like many of our well intentioned plans it didn't happen because they were booked so I only had risotto one time and have no way to know if there's was prepared the way it "should be".

At the restaurant we use carnaroli to make risotto( served with ramps and parm right now) and I have the guys rinse it well before we make it because I don't like how it turns out otherwise. Then we sauté onions and a bay leaf add in rice to lightly toast and have hot water ready to add in 2 stages. We boil it pretty hard to crack the grains to release inner starch. Stirring all the while and adding water as needed. When it's still al dente it's poured onto a sheet tray and "cut" with a wooden spoon to help it cool faster. Order comes in butter shallots and garlic hit the pan then the rice a quick stir then water ramps and parm, reduce till tight butter more cheese and a fresh handful of ramps salt to taste and plate. Not saying that's the only way to do it, just our way.

Drool.

By the way, the reason I am in search of authentic risotto is that the one dish I did have in Italy, a pear & taleggio risotto was amazing and I'm really hoping to come close to recreating it for my dinner club next month.

[hm212]

I have had two extremely memorable unforgetable Risotto's.

One was from Roberto at Labratorio.  It was not runny and almost the complete opposite of what they say it should be on Top Chef, but it completely melted in my mouth.  I would trust Roberto anytime to make great risotto.

The other I am sure is not repeated these days.  Filomena was making risotto inside of a cheese wheel tableside.  This was about ten years ago and I have never had anything like this since.  The creamiest and richest that I have ever had.  Does anyone know of anyone now that would make risotto tableside?

[DonRocks]

I have had two extremely memorable unforgetable Risotto's.

One was from Roberto at Labratorio.  It was not runny and almost the complete opposite of what they say it should be on Top Chef, but it completely melted in my mouth.  I would trust Roberto anytime to make great risotto.

The other I am sure is not repeated these days.  Filomena was making risotto inside of a cheese wheel tableside.  This was about ten years ago and I have never had anything like this since.  The creamiest and richest that I have ever had.  Does anyone know of anyone now that would make risotto tableside?

I don't know of anywhere that's making risotto inside a wheel of Parmigiano in the DC area right now, but I had this done, tableside, at Famoso in Bethesda, and it was fantastic.

If you understand the equation: 202{2008} > 202{2014}, I'll know you subscribe to Tom Sietsema's Facebook feed, and you'll know what I think about the state of dining in DC right now.

[Choirgirl21]

Wow, if not for this site, I would have totally missed the tiny "coming soon" on their website amidst everything else and thought it was open. I had a few minutes of total confusion.

[Erik Ox]

The other I am sure is not repeated these days.  Filomena was making risotto inside of a cheese wheel tableside.  This was about ten years ago and I have never had anything like this since.  The creamiest and richest that I have ever had.  Does anyone know of anyone now that would make risotto tableside?

My favorite risotto is at Primi Piatti, where they finish it in a wheel of cheese tableside.  I've probably had it there over a dozen times through the years and while it may not be "high art" like at some of the places mentioned above, it is pretty damn tasty.

[DonRocks]

My favorite risotto is at Primi Piatti, where they finish it in a wheel of cheese tableside.  I've probably had it there over a dozen times through the years and while it may not be "high art" like at some of the places mentioned above, it is pretty damn tasty.

At Al Famoso, they poured a liqueur in the cheese rind and set it on fire (!), then put out the fire, poured in the risotto, and mixed it around with the now-melted top layer of cheese.

Wow, if not for this site, I would have totally missed the tiny "coming soon" on their website amidst everything else and thought it was open. I had a few minutes of total confusion.

choirgirl21, which restaurant are you referring to when you say "their website?" I might have simply missed something, and would definitely not trust the titles or even the dining guides as being completely up-to-date right now, as I have fallen behind. I'm trying desperately to catch up.

[Choirgirl21]

Af Famoso, they poured a liqueur in the cheese rind and set it on fire (!), then put out the fire, poured in the risotto, and mixed it around with the now-melted top layer of cheese.

choirgirl21, which restaurant are you referring to when you say "their website?" I might have simply missed something, and would definitely not trust the titles or even the dining guides as being completely up-to-date right now, as I have fallen behind. I'm trying desperately to catch up.

I just googled Famoso and there is a website for a Famoso in Chevy Chase, MD that is "coming soon". The menu includes a risotto cooked in a cheese wheel.

[DonRocks]

I just googled Famoso and there is a website for a Famoso in Chevy Chase, MD that is "coming soon". The menu includes a risotto cooked in a cheese wheel.

I can't *quite* tell if you're being sarcastic or not, but just in case you aren't, that restaurant has come and gone.

[Choirgirl21]

I can't *quite* tell if you're being sarcastic or not, but just in case you aren't, that restaurant has come and gone.

I'm not being sarcastic in the least. You mentioned Famoso in Bethesda, I found a website for a Famoso in Chevy Chase with a "coming soon" on the home page. I assumed they had closed and were reopening in a slightly different location. I guess that's not the case and they just never got rid of their website.

[DonRocks]

I'm not being sarcastic in the least. You mentioned Famoso in Bethesda, I found a website for a Famoso in Chevy Chase with a "coming soon" on the home page. I assumed they had closed and were reopening in a slightly different location. I guess that's not the case and they just never got rid of their website. 

Sorry, that was my mistake: Famoso was in Chevy Chase near Sushi-Ko.

[Choirgirl21]

Sorry, that was my mistake: Famoso was in Chevy Chase near Sushi-Ko.

I'm sure most people knew what you were referring to, I just had no knowledge about the place prior to this conversation. I know we're pretty off topic here, but it seems odd that the website is still there in all its glory. I would have thought there were costs involved in maintaining a website. Is this normal?