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The Price of Cheese


DonRocks

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No, it's gone off the deep end. Six years ago, cheesemonger extraordinaire Steve Jenkins was still trying to cajole people into spending - no, splurging - the $17/lb that a good cheese cost. Sutton Place had piles of Neal's Yard Montgomery's Cheddar for barely more. There was a minor panic when a tariff war sent the price of roquefort upwards of $25/lb.

But today even middling non-artisanal "gourmet" cheeses, poorly handled, are stickered at $22-30/lb at the local supermarket. WTF?

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Am I wrong for saying that the price of cheese - and I'm talking well-stored, high-end cheese - at retail, can go fuck itself? I'm completely sick of walking in and buying a quarter-pound (four ounces) of cheese and spending $7.00.

No, you're not wrong. I've stopped buying cheese except for special occasions. The prices have moved beyond ridiculous to offensive.

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Am I wrong for saying that the price of cheese - and I'm talking well-stored, high-end cheese - at retail, can go fuck itself? I'm completely sick of walking in and buying a quarter-pound (four ounces) of cheese and spending $7.00.

I had a cheese I really liked at a Liberty Tavern/Lyon Hall/Northside Social establishment and went to try and buy some at Whole Foods. I realized just ordering that cheese for all three choices on a cheese plate was actually cheaper than retail.

I enjoy the fromage blanc from cowgirl creamery, partially because of its bang for the buck.

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I had a cheese I really liked at a Liberty Tavern/Lyon Hall/Northside Social establishment and went to try and buy some at Whole Foods. I realized just ordering that cheese for all three choices on a cheese plate was actually cheaper than retail.

I enjoy the fromage blanc from cowgirl creamery, partially because of its bang for the buck.

The Liberty Tavern group has an unusually generous cheese plate! Makes me pine away for the Nectar / early-Komi days.

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I agree on cheese prices. But I am so screwed as I am a complete cheese junkie.

This might be silly, but how are prices compared in stores compared to online vendors? I have seen some deals/discount coupons advertised for "Artisan/Artisanal" cheeses and was questioning the validity of the discount.

-goodeats (resorting to the junk bin of cheeses by the salad bars at WF)

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Argh! at my 2x/wk torture session (6 am-functional fitness), I was discussing diet changes w/ another participant-she was telling me about how she carries around lots of cut-up fruits & veg in the car w/ her, to grab when she's peckish, & I had a blinding realization (why I'm not noticeably slimmer or in better shape, after sticking w/ this for 3 months)-it's cheese! A life w/out cheese is not worth living (please convince me otherwise) & I'm not even terribly picky-domestic cheddar, feta will do, I make yogurt cheese-if I could give it up for just a week I'd probably see a difference....

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if I could give it up for just a week I'd probably see a difference....

I tried this once, it was not easy. I had been told by trainers/doctors for years it would, among other health benefits, help my breathing for running. False, it made no discernible difference. You can lose weight while still eating cheese, just eat less. Or if that's too hard, just make it your whole meal (only half kidding).

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You can lose weight while still eating cheese, just eat less.

 
Again referring to Jenkins: part of what makes quality Parmigiano-Reggiano the world's greatest cheese is that its hardness and intensity mean you don't need to use a lot of it (grated) compared to other cheeses. One might quibble with the superlative, but it's definitely a contender.

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I'll add that I often buy Pecorino over Parmesan. I just haven't found a Parmesan that is twice as good for twice the price. I'd love to hear suggestions for where to get a really good hunk of Parmesan, just for eating alone perhaps with a drizzle of quality balsamic.

 
The other factor is that I use grated cheese a good deal in soups, cooking etc, so I tend to go for a cheaper cheese in those instances.

In some cases, like when I buy cheese from Cheesetique, I feel that I'm also paying for the knowledge of the people who help me with my selections, along with the freshness and quality.

In other instances, it's just hard for me to pull the trigger on a tiny wedge of cheese that's upwards of $15 or so at the farmers markets. NOT that I don't recognize how wonderful it is. It's just sometimes it comes down to limiting how much I'm going to spend there, and buying more items for my money.

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I'll add that I often buy Pecorino over Parmesan.

 
I would rather but a good grana than a run of the mill Reggiano. And good Reggiano {ie 3 year old or more, red cow} cost $18 to 20 a pound wholesale.

Another point: cheese, even artisinal, has an industrial aspect to it. You make it every day. Yes the milk changes, but more time is spent in prep and cleaning than in actual making. So small producers are not necessarily the best. There are some producers at the farmers market circut who I just don't get.... their product is no better than commercially available cheeses and in some cases worse and their prices at wholesale are often much higher than the European cheese they are emulating.

On the other hand, there are cooperative made cheeses {like my current favorite Prairie Breeze} that are incredibly unique and actually pretty danged cheap.

But would I pay $20 or $30 a pound for something from Cato Corners {I only see it at Union Square Green Market in NYC, sorry Tim}. Damn right. Totally unique cheeses of incredible quality. Is Humboldt fog worth it. Damn straight, but only if in condition. Which most pieces of this incredible cheese are not! Most pieces of Humboldt are in such bad shape that they would make your head spin if you tasted them against a piece in good condition.

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Am I wrong for saying that the price of cheese - and I'm talking well-stored, high-end cheese - at retail, can go fuck itself?

You're not wrong, Don.

Cheese has become a forgotten staple in my home.

I couldn't care less how "awesome and nutty" a cheese tastes at $19.99 a pound.

At $28.99 a pound? It can go fuck itself. Seriously. Just like $14 cocktails. What a joke - I guess if there are enough fools willing to part with their money, then so be it. I see an entire generation being brainwashed.

Cheese is not a luxury item; it's just priced like one.

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I understand it's a pure supply and demand situation - my problem with that article is that the details they mention (aging rooms, small production runs, etc.) have *always* been in existence, so the conclusion doesn't match up with the rest of the piece.

My read is that - like with Bordeaux, for example - it may be China, India, Russia, etc. who have increased demand dramatically versus a relatively static supply. Now, as to why local dairy farms are selling *their* cheese for $20+ a pound ... it's because they can. (As you've probably noticed, a lot of new people are jumping ship into the cheese business - I suspect they wouldn't be doing this if it wasn't profitable. Yes, of course you have your Katie Carters and Carolyn Stromburgs who do it because they love it, and they'd be the last ones standing at the end of the day.)

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I understand it's a pure supply and demand situation - my problem with that article is that the details they mention (aging rooms, small production runs, etc.) have *always* been in existence, so the conclusion doesn't match up with the rest of the piece.

My read is that - like with Bordeaux, for example - it may be China, India, Russia, etc. who have increased demand dramatically versus a relatively static supply. Now, as to why local dairy farms are selling *their* cheese for $20+ a pound ... it's because they can. (As you've probably noticed, a lot of new people are jumping ship into the cheese business - I suspect they wouldn't be doing this if it wasn't profitable. Yes, of course you have your Katie Carters and Carolyn Stromburgs who do it because they love it, and they'd be the last ones standing at the end of the day.)

This article provides an interesting comparison of the economics of artisan American cheeses versus imported cheeses.

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