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Tagolio Pizzeria and Enoteca, Crystal City - Closed


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Have not posted much since the demise of Bebo Trattoria, but this place is a sleeper on the 23rd St "row" and deserves a shout out in the age of Orso and Pupatella. Both the Funghi and DOC Margharita were excellent if not authentically "wet"; for purists, the structural integrity of the "sliced" (the horror!!) pie might cause heart palpitations but this is a tasty pie using fine ingredients, restraint and balance...the crust is light, chewy, with cheetah, if not leopard spotting, and a nice smoky after taste..the char is there also. A house-made pasta dish of flat noodles, tomato, basil, and olives topped with marscapone cheese was also outstanding. The pizzialo is George, formally of Bebo, who served the best pies at that place this side of RD himself at the oven. Staff is friendly and service prompt..a good alternative to Cafe Pizziola and much better pizza than Kora. BTW..don't we all look back fondly at the slings and arrows on this board about Bebo's "pizza soup"..Well soup has come of age since Pupatella and Orso have explained to the masses that it is cool now to drink your pie and eat it too!

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I just started working in Crystal City, I have done nothing other than follow my co-workers around the last two weeks for lunch. It is, in fact, quite liberating since I was in charge of picking a place for lunch for two years at my previous client.

Anyway, we went to Tagolio for lunch the other day and, I have to say, I was rather impressed. I have not tried one of the bajillion other Italian places on that stretch of road, but Tagolio is a perfectly fine place for lunch. I felt that the cannoli was below average, but the pizzas and pastas that we had at the table were solid, much better than average. The pastas were not oversauced or overcooked and the pizzas had a good balance of toppings and a crispy/chewy crust combination that was nice.

By the way, I agree about the misspellings, it is actually quite maddening when a restaurant seemingly does not proofread their menu, it is, after all, the one thing that everyone looks at when they come to your restaurant.

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Holy bubbles and char

I'd pass on the homemade Ricotta Gnocchi Cardone ($16) with homemade fennel sausage ragu, the combination sounding irresistible. This brought back vague memories of Cowboy Cafe's homemade tater tots. Essentially, both come across as globes of mashed potatoes with cheese - one more like a dumpling, the other more like a croquette. The sauce did not resonate with me at all; nevertheless, it was sopped up with the basket of passable homemade focaccia.

A large Uovo ($14) with slices of Yukon Gold potatoes, bacon, caramelized onions, Fontina, Mozzarella Fior di Latte (happily substituted at no extra charge for Smoked Mozzarella), sage, and two runny eggs, was (as referenced above) a much better than average pizza. No blister, and not much taste in the crust, but plenty of char, and the rest of this breakfast-like combination will indeed be enjoyed tomorrow morning for breakfast. I don't feel the need to make comparisons; only to say that this was a good pizza which I'd happily order again. Draft Peronis were $5, and service was friendly and pleasant.

Cheers,

Rocks

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Two recent meals were very good, including a fine pizza with smoked mozz, wild mushrooms, artichokes and really good braised pork shoulder...A Margherita with added smoked mozz was also excellent....the crust here has both some crunch and a soft, chewy interior..good char and smokiness to it, also...excellent ingredients. Other highlights include a surprizingly moist and fresh tasting salmon burger with great fries (added truffle oil and parmesan) and nice swordfish prepared with olives, tomato and capers. A desert of homemade cannolli was incredible, particuarly the brittle and not-too-sweet shell. The owner and servers are very gracious and take pride in the product. This place flies under the radar right now, but in Crystal City it is far superior to Kora or Pizziaola (which still still quite good IMHO, especially for delivery and reheat).

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*edit* "imported pepperoni" makes me snicker..

Maybe so, but it makes for a damn fine pizza. The only issue I have with the pies at Tagolio is that they go a bit too heavy on the flour, not in the dough, but on it.

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The only issue I have with the pies at Tagolio is that they go a bit too heavy on the flour, not in the dough, but on it.

This happened to me the last time I ordered here. I had a mouth full of dry flour from the bottom coating competing with the pizza's lovely flavors...

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