Dinner - The Polyphonic Food Blog

[LauraB]

Pork medallions browned in butter

Butternut squash, cut into large cubes, cooked on stovetop in butter with sage, apple cider, sherry vinegar, salt, then into oven to reduce liquid to glaze and fully cook squash

Mustard and other greens sautéed in butter, tossed with garlic, red pepper flakes and cider vinegar

This was a really lovely autumn meal -- many of the ingredients were purchased this morning at the Dupont Farmers Market.

[The Hersch]

I tried once, broke the cork, and had a scotch instead.

One can break the cork even with two fully functioning hands. Some corks are just waiting for you to break them, the god-damned little bastards.

[TrelayneNYC]

Rainbow carrots and parsnips, with candied ginger, hazelnuts and rosemary



Broccoli rabe, heirloom tomatoes and rocambole garlic

I somehow managed to score a basket of heirloom cherry tomatoes at USGM this weekend.




Pan-fried scallops
Freekeh pilaf, with scallion, currants and preserved lemon

[Pat]

Salad of romaine and baby lettuce, bacon, avocado, tomato, radish, and cucumber; sesame-ginger vinaigrette

Chicken drumsticks with cranberry-mustard bbq sauce

Leftover Armenian noodles and cheese

Braised swiss chard

 

I had about 8 oz. of Zora's bbq sauce left in a jar in the refrigerator, and I knew it had been in there for some time and wanted to use it.  I also have an abundance of cranberries and was looking for ways to use some that don't involve a lot of sugar.  Since there is already sugar in the sauce, I hit upon the idea of throwing some whole cranberries (maybe 3/4 cup) into the remaining bbq sauce, boiling it all up and simmering until the cranberries broke down.  Then I poured/brushed the sauce on a big pan of chicken drumsticks and baked them in the oven.  Really good, and the sugar in the bbq sauce did double duty.

[lperry]

Pineapple, apple, carrot, ginger, grapefruit, banana, and probably a few other things I found in the fridge but can't remember right now, all put through the juicer.  We've been eating out a lot recently and I'm feeling a little icky from it, so I'll be juicing dinner for a week or so while Mr. lperry is out of town. 

[zoramargolis]

pan seared eco-friendly chicken livers, onion sauteed with speck, oyster and crimini mushrooms and porcini powder, dry marsala, balsamic and veal stock

puree of potato, celery root and onion

2011 Vinademoya mencia

[TrelayneNYC]

Minestra di scarola ("escarole soup")



Pasta con cime di rapa e pomodoro

[porcupine]

buttermilk biscuits with hickory syrup

homemade applesauce (made from Stayman apples)

Just that.  I was solo.

What I want to know is why isn't hickory syrup as popular as maple syrup?  That stuff is good!

[Pat]

Prunes stewed with orange slices and cinnamon over Greek yogurt

Leftover lamb rib chops

Lamb sausages with oregano and garlic

Roasted eggplant stuffed with leftover turkey-poblano-bok choy mixture and brown rice

[The Hersch]

Minestra di scarola ("escarole soup")

That soup looks beautiful. What's the broth made of? This reminds me that I have what started out as a very nice big escarole in my refrigerator. It's probably pretty piqued by now, but I bet it would still work just fine for soup, if not for salad.

[TrelayneNYC]

That soup looks beautiful. What's the broth made of? This reminds me that I have what started out as a very nice big escarole in my refrigerator. It's probably pretty piqued by now, but I bet it would still work just fine for soup, if not for salad.

Hi Hersch.

It's chicken stock, shredded escarole, sea salt, black pepper, fried bread and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.  Simmer some chicken stock, add the escarole and cook for 8-10 minutes or until tender.  Taste for salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, fry some stale bread cubes in olive oil until golden brown; drain on paper towels.

To serve, ladle the soup in individual bowls, add the croutons and some grated P-R cheese if you like.

In the pic above, it was Chinese chicken stock that I had -- basically poaching liquid from some bai qie ji I made a few months ago:  clear chicken broth with flavor notes of garlic, white pepper, ginger and scallion.  Regular chicken stock is even better.

[TrelayneNYC]

Insalata di scarola ("escarole salad, with mushrooms, wild arugula and ricotta salata")




Orecchiette con sugo di cozze ("orecchiette with mussel and tomato sauce")

As you can see, I eat a lot of pasta.  Probably 2-3x a week, at any rate.

Might do pasta e piselli later this week.  I have a craving for it.

[zoramargolis]

baked cauliflower with cheese sauce

2012 La Caí±a albarií±o

[porcupine]

Eggs shirred in acorn squash with parmesan (the Frank Ruta recipe published in the Washington Post years ago called for pecorino, but parm was on hand)

simple green salad

applesauce

chocolates from Artisan

[Pat]

Dinner

Roasted garlic hummus and Armenian cracker bread

Leftover Boursin-stuffed mushrooms

Leftover borlotti bean salad

Sesame tofu and vegetable stir-fry

Leftover brown rice

 

I recently purchased some Shichimi Togarashi and that was a great additional seasoning for the stir-fry.  

[zoramargolis]

last night:

farmers market winter borscht: Smith Meadows beef bones, with carrots, cabbage, leek, celery, parsnip, fennel, potatoes, garlic, onion, parsley, thyme, dill from various purveyors of vegetables at the Dupont Circle market and Pomi tomatoes. made sweet-sour with cider vinegar and agave nectar. served with a drizzle of fig balsamic and a spoonful of goat milk labne.

Bonaparte Bakery mini-baguette

Amish cultured butter

2011 Bogle essential red

[LauraB]

I don't know if anyone else here is a Jerry Traunfeld fan, but I sure am.  I have 2 of his cookbooks and everything I've made from them has been fantastic.  Last night was no exception.  The recipe is titled Halibut in Carrot-Cilantro Broth.   I've made this recipe once before using halibut, but last night I used cod because, well, it was $10/lb less expensive.

The fish is poached in a 'broth' of carrot juice and dry vermouth that is flavored with salt, shallots, grated ginger, and lime juice.  Cilantro is added at the end.  It's very aromatic and flavorful.

Served with chard sautéed in butter and steamed baby Brussels sprouts.

[Pat]

The fish is poached in a 'broth' of carrot juice and dry vermouth that is flavored with salt, shallots, grated ginger, and lime juice.  Cilantro is added at the end.  It's very aromatic and flavorful.

That sounds excellent.  I like both halibut and cod.  Based on the description, I will have to give this a try.  I keep trying to get more fish into our diet.

Last night:

Russian black bread with butter or soy spread

Baby spinach and baby arugula mix with Campari tomatoes, avocado, cucumber, toasted squash seeds, and radishes; homemade croutons; ginger-sesame vinaigrette (Newman's)

Broiled herbed rainbow trout

Leftover sesame tofu and vegetable stir-fry

 

On the fish front, I've been buying rainbow trout at Whole Foods over recent weeks/months and really loving it simply prepared.   The fillets I got yesterday were bigger than the past couple of times, so we ended up with one leftover.  I'm going to see how well it substitutes for smoked trout in a crostini recipe I have.

[zoramargolis]

pan-fried panko crusted skate filets

remoulade sauce

oven roasted broccolini

potato-celery root puree (leftover)

2012 Pine Ridge chenin blanc-viognier

[porcupine]

test run of potential Thanksgiving main course: pork tenderloin coated in rosemary, thyme, and allspice, seared on the stove then braised in the oven with tangerine juice and fennel

applesauce

[Pat]

Toasted Russian black bread with trout spread and roasted garlic hummus

Dukkah baked goat cheese with artisan lettuces; sherry-red wine vinaigrette

Baked chicken breasts

Steamed broccoli

 

The salad was a variation on a recipe from The Chez Panisse Café Cookbook.   I mixed a little socca with some dukkah I made last weekend to coat the cheese instead of using breadcrumbs.  I'd say it was more or less successful.

[LauraB]

A spicy pork and bean chili

Pork shoulder cubed, browned in bacon fat

Diced onion and minced jalapeno chiles softened, then garlic, oregano, chili powder, cumin and cayenne added

Beef broth, a cup of brewed coffee, and pureed tomatoes added

Simmered for a few hours

Kidney and pinto beans added and heated through

Served with toppings of toasted salted pumpkin seeds, chopped red onion, cilantro, diced avocado, and sour cream

[Pat]

Tonight:

Hearts of romaine with tomato, green olives, gruyere, and croutons; sesame-ginger vinaigrette

Short ribs Provencale (red wine-beef stock-tomato sauce with carrots and olives)

Pappardelle with chives

Last night:

Leftover stewed prunes and citrus over nonfat yogurt

Yebeg Alicha (Ethiopian mild lamb stew)

Sauteed collards, kale and bacon with red onion and hot pepper flakes

Leftover borlotti beans

[lperry]

Roasted fingerling potatoes and sunchokes with a chipotle, honey, key lime mayonnaise.

Romaine dressed in honey mustard.

Broccoli salad (left over from a brunch this morning) with MacIntosh apple and dried cranberries, in a honey, mustard, apple vinaigrette.  If you haven't bought the apple (not apple cider) vinegar from the Mediterranean Bakery, do so.  It's amazing.

[TrelayneNYC]

brunch:



Soft-boiled eggs, roasted brussel sprouts




Parsnips and broccoli rabe

The parsnips were simmered in lightly salted water, then fried in unsalted butter.

Same first procedure for the broccoli rabe, which was then cooked in olive oil with garlic and preserved lemons.




Lamb and red pepper/fennel sausage, with sweet peppers, mushrooms and onion


tonight:



Boeuf bourguignon on egg noodles.

Not exactly the recipe Julia gives in MtAoFC but a close approximation.

[darkstar965]

- Fresh halibut* poached in stock with green onion and ginger

- Baby bok choy stir-fried with sliced portabella, plenty of garlic and a splash of soy sauce

- Jasmine rice

* Feel like I've tried at least a dozen different recipes for halibut and have never been very happy with any of them.  I think the fish is just too mild and, relative to other fish, I seem to have a harder time nailing the cooking temperature.

[zoramargolis]

* Feel like I've tried at least a dozen different recipes for halibut and have never been very happy with any of them.  I think the fish is just too mild and, relative to other fish, I seem to have a harder time nailing the cooking temperature.

It may not be a problem with the recipes. IMO halibut is a really boring fish and I am always gobsmacked by how expensive it is. Many other kinds of fish are much tastier and are less expensive. Just the other night I made one of our favorites, skate wing, which is incredibly delicious. I paid $6.99 a pound for it at A&H Seafood.

last night:

fabes asturianas and eco-friendly chorizo, stewed with a sofrito of onion, garlic, tomato, ripe anaheim chile, carrot, celery, pimenton and cumin.

baguette garlic toast

[The Hersch]

Boeuf bourguignon on egg noodles.

That's the un-sauciest boeuf bourguignon I ever saw.

[TrelayneNYC]

That's the un-sauciest boeuf bourguignon I ever saw.

Probably because I don't like thick sauces and I used no flour.  But there was gravy, and judging by my BF's moans, well-deserved. 

[darkstar965]

It may not be a problem with the recipes. IMO halibut is a really boring fish and I am always gobsmacked by how expensive it is. Many other kinds of fish are much tastier and are less expensive. Just the other night I made one of our favorites, skate wing, which is incredibly delicious. I paid $6.99 a pound for it at A&H Seafood.

last night:

fabes asturianas and eco-friendly chorizo, stewed with a sofrito of onion, garlic, tomato, ripe anaheim chile, carrot, celery, pimenton and cumin.

baguette garlic toast

Thanks for that, Zora.  That's been my instinct also but wasn't as sure.  I almost marinated it but then realized any decent marinade would just dominate the fish so didn't go in that direction.  I did a trip to Alaska years ago where I'm pretty sure we had uber-fresh Halibut from the boat somewhere but cannot recall it being otherworldly in any way like those kinds of experiences tend to prompt.  There's also a real issue around sustainability with halibut since the season is somewhat limited and only the pacific NW/Alaskan population is thought to be sustainable.  Much of the halibut sold here comes from eastern Canada.  Think I'll be staying away from Halibut in the future. Thank you.

[ktmoomau]

Saturday night I cooked spaghetti al bianco with ground veal and venison.  I normally don't put in the whole 1 1/2 lbs of meat that the recipe calls for, but we need leftovers for this week.  It's one of my favorite cold winter day things to make.  It's from a cookbook, from someone I haven't really ever heard of, but every darn recipe in the thing is great.

[darkstar965]

My +1 bought some amazing lamb from a local source and used it make a delicious saag gosht (lamb with spinach stew).  Served with basmati rice and a medium bodied red wine.  The aroma of it cooking for several hours filled the house as onions, tomatoes and spices including tumeric and cumin worked their magic on the tender cuts of lamb and spinach.  It was so good, we invited a couple of neighbors over. Big success.  Way better than my failed attempt at halibut the night prior. Thanks again, Zora. 

[Pat]

Goat-cheese stuffed figs wrapped in bacon

Crusty chicken thighs with mushroom sauce

Sweet Italian chicken sausages with tomato sauce

Leftover steamed broccoli

 

The chicken with mushroom sauce recipe came from Jacques Pepin.  I saved the recipe quite some time ago but I think this is the first time I'd made it.  Really good and fairly quick and simple.

[zoramargolis]

Thai-style seafood soup: base made with A&H Seafood fish stock, shrimp shells, lemon grass, ginger, shallot, kaffir lime leaf. Soup made with shrimp and squid, lemon grass, ginger, garlic, sliced hot chile, coconut milk, soy sauce, Red Boat fish sauce, cilantro and scallions.

basmati rice (didn't have jasmine)

stovetop grilled Chinese broccoli

Buckshot amber ale

[TrelayneNYC]

Radicchio, with honey-roasted shallots, heirloom cherry tomatoes and ricotta salata






Roast cod
Broccoli rabe and cauliflower, with heirloom tomato, rocambole garlic and lemon

[The Hersch]

 It's from a cookbook, from someone I haven't really ever heard of, but every darn recipe in the thing is great.

Would you consider sharing the name of the author and the book?

[ktmoomau]

Would you consider sharing the name of the author and the book?

Jill Dupleix is the author, apparently she is a big deal across the pond, the cookbook is Good Cooking the New Basics.  I see on Amazon she has some other cookbooks, I wonder if they are as good.  This one I use so much it is coming apart.  

[porcupine]

Needed something straightforward.  Found a jar of marinara sauce in the freezer and doctored it up with sweet Italian sausage and dried herbs from the garden.  While the gemelli was cooking I decided to serve the last of the salad mix (lettuces and spinach), and doctored up some plain croutons with a mix of the same herbs and garlic - simmered for a few minutes in really good olive oil and tossed all together, then threw on some Parmesan cheese because the pasta still wasn't ready.  The sauce was good but the croutons were the star of dinner.  I could just eat those as a snack while watching a movie or something.

[Pat]

Chicken leftovers two ways:

Deep-fried chicken wings

Chicken salad platter:  Walnut-tarragon-cranberry chicken salad over baby arugula mix, ringed by leftover goat-cheese-stuffed figs wrapped in bacon

[lperry]

Roasted heirloom tomato risotto.  SImple, but perfect for the weather. 

[LauraB]

Pureed cauliflower and collard green soup

Roasted turkey breast (an Ina Garten recipe, surprisingly moist meat despite the lack of brining)

Chard sautéed with olive oil and garlic

Steamed broccoli

[zoramargolis]

last night:

kotlety (Russian pan fried, crumb crusted ground beef patties) with spicy ketchup

golden cauliflower puree

haricots verts with lemon and garlic

2011 Kirkland Napa cabernet

[Xochitl10]

Last night:

Macaroni and cheese using Monterey Jack, chopped green chile, and red salmon

Tonight:

Roast beef

Mashed potatoes with ricotta and sage

Braised carrots and leeks

Maple-pumpkin custards

[ktmoomau]

Chicken breasts pounded thin, rubbed with a tuscan rub, thrown in the skillet.  Potato pancakes from leftover mashed, left over green beans with lemon, mustard and olive oil, sauerkraut (for me) and pie leftovers!

[zoramargolis]

blanquette de veau: veal breast from Organic Butcher of McLean, repurposed t-day creamed onions, turkey stock, 'shrooms, tarragon and parsley

egg noodles

pan roasted brussels sprouts with bacon

2012 quincy

[TrelayneNYC]

Baked flounder
Crispy roasted heirloom potatoes
Cabbage, with smoked bacon and sherry vinegar

[DaveO]

Some months ago I opened my big ignorant mouth when seeing a post by Zora referencing a methodology for tomato sauce she picked up via Lidia Bastianich on TV.  This might be the basic recipe or close to it.   While I learned the technique years ago, I simply didn't realize it wasn't widespread.

Updating:    With an aged infirm old food processor that wasn't working I resorted to grating the onions, carrots, celery, and some peppers into a fine mulch, and then sauteed lightly in olive oil before adding to a sauce.   It was the old way to do this before food processors got to be so good.

The news is simply the sauce and consistency were fine and up to standards.  Blitzing or grating those veggies and/or some others, sauteing and adding to a tomato sauce is a terrific way to add flavors, veggies, and creates a terrific sauce.  Red pepper flakes and other add ons are optional.

[TrelayneNYC]

Some months ago I opened my big ignorant mouth when seeing a post by Zora referencing a methodology for tomato sauce she picked up via Lidia Bastianich on TV.  This might be the basic recipe or close to it.   While I learned the technique years ago, I simply didn't realize it wasn't widespread.

Updating:    With an aged infirm old food processor that wasn't working I resorted to grating the onions, carrots, celery, and some peppers into a fine mulch, and then sauteed lightly in olive oil before adding to a sauce.   It was the old way to do this before food processors got to be so good.

The news is simply the sauce and consistency were fine and up to standards.  Blitzing or grating those veggies and/or some others, sauteing and adding to a tomato sauce is a terrific way to add flavors, veggies, and creates a terrific sauce.  Red pepper flakes and other add ons are optional.

the technique of cooking a battuto over low, constant heat and eventually transforming it into a soffritto was one that was popularized by Marcella Hazan and other doyennes of Italian cooking.

it's something I do all the time, and not just for red sauces, but also for minestrone or pasta e ceci.

as a side note, there are other types of battuti; the mix of celery, carrot and onion cited above is one out of hundreds.

[DaveO]

the technique of cooking a battuto over low, constant heat and eventually transforming it into a soffritto was one that was popularized by Marcella Hazan and other doyennes of Italian cooking.

it's something I do all the time, and not just for red sauces, but also for minestrone or pasta e ceci.

as a side note, there are other types of battuti; the mix of celery, carrot and onion cited above is one out of hundreds.

mmmmmm.   I don't recall learning the term battuto, but did learn the techniques long ago.   Its simply scrumptious IMHO.  Here is one reference    I agree Trelayne, the variations and applications are endless.

I think an even better description is provided here  (dang...I didn't learn any of the terminology history or application behind this)

btw:   thanks for all the pics of your cooking and dinners.  Looooooooooord...they make me hungry!!!

[TrelayneNYC]

mmmmmm.   I don't recall learning the term battuto, but did learn the techniques long ago.   Its simply scrumptious IMHO.  Here is one reference    I agree Trelayne, the variations and applications are endless.

btw:   thanks for all the pics of your cooking and dinners.  Looooooooooord...they make me hungry!!!

 

The technique is widespread in Italian cooking and there are references to it from the late 19th century, such as in the cookbook "La scienza in cucina e l'arte di mangiare bene" originally published by Pellegrino Artusi.

A battuto is what a soffritto is before it undergoes the process of insaporire ("to add taste" or "to build flavor"). You have your chopped aromatics (onion, fennel, leeks, celery, celery leaves, carrots, etc. (occasionally pancetta or ham) in varying proportions, then you add them in a certain order to your cooking fat (unsalted butter, olive oil, lard, etc.). Cook the battuto over low heat, stirring occasionally while you watch over it. the battuto must not brown; if your ingredients brown, it will affect the finished dish in both taste and appearance. Your battuto becomes a soffritto once your vegetables have softened sufficiently and have developed their flavors.

There are many types of battuti. The combination of celery, onion and carrot is one such type (and very northern Italian I might add); a southern Italian battuto might begin with onion, garlic and Italian parsley cooked slowly in olive oil. If garlic is used, it's typically crushed or bruised slightly to release the juices, then sautéed gently in oil until the clove becomes a pale gold after which it's discarded.

As one of the commenters in the Serious Eats thread notes:

You cannot make one recipe for a generic term. With so many regional differences, you can't even make one recipe for a battuto for tomato sauce.

she alludes to another point -- Italian cooking is not "one type of cooking", but a collection of regional cuisines that varies not only from region to region, but from city to city, village to village, neighorhood to neighborhood, family to family.

The Serious Eats article is nice, but it contains a few errors/nitpicks such as the assertion that there are no rules, or that there is a one-size-fits-all recipe for everything.

And finally (this is a pet peeve of mine), if there is one thing that I would love for people to learn about Italian cooking, it would be to use garlic less and onion more!