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"Do something with leftovers" night: Bolognese base recast as taco meat.  Orange-braised fennel.  My last, lovely, formerly misplaced bottle of '06 Texier "Opále".

Speaking of bolognese and recasting, some time ago I made a batch of Swiss steak, an old favorite that I love. When contemplating the leftovers a day or two later, it occurred to me that Swiss steak and ragu alla bolognese are very similar. So I shredded some of the meat, put meat and sauce in a pan, added cream, simmered for a few minutes, and there it was, ready to be married with pappardelle and parmigiano. I have a picture somewhere but can't find it at the moment.

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Speaking of bolognese and recasting, some time ago I made a batch of Swiss steak, an old favorite that I love.

I adore Swiss steak. I haven't made it in years, partly because Azami isn't a huge fan. I'm making bulk dishes on the weekends to free up his time during the week (he's the homemaker/artist, but is in serious artist mode for art-show season), so now there may be Swiss steak in his future.

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Speaking of Swiss steak, I've seen it endlessly asserted that "Swiss" in Swiss steak doesn't refer to Switzerland but rather to a process (swissing) of tenderizing meat, and I still don't buy it. Swissing, or "to swiss", is a word you won't see anywhere. The verb form has no entry in the OED, and the noun "swissing" a very brief entry with an etymology of "origin unascertained" and a definition of "The calendering of bleached cloth by passing it between pairs of rollers after damping." "Calender" is a word you won't often see either, and "swiss" in this sense is an even more out-of-the-way term for a limited instance of calendering. Neither swissing nor calendering bears any resemblance to the pounding or hammering that is the hallmark of Swiss steak. The OED has an entry for "Swiss steak" among the compounds formed with "Swiss" in its usual sense, saying of such formations "in names of things, animals, etc. actually or reputedly coming from Switzerland" -- akin to calling that orange glop in a bottle French dressing.

 
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Wednesday night:

multi-ethnic cuisine

stove-top grilled, herb-brined eco-friendly pork chops with ZQ sauce

grilled haricots verts

oven roasted sweet potato wedges dusted with ras el hanout, served with a goat milk labne* dipping sauce spiced with fresh ginger, lemon grass and lime zest

last of the sweet-sour red cabbage with pear

*made by draining the whey from TJ's goat milk yogurt overnight in the refrigerator. I'm addicted to this stuff.

2012 Cameron Hughes RRV pinot noir

last night:

2-year manchego with homemade dulce de membrillo

sweet-sour stuffed savoy cabbage, made with fresh tomato sauce with fennel, carrots and prunes, stuffed with ground bison forcemeat and smoked basmati rice

frozen banana-pineapple-coconut milk soft serve

2010 Mas Donis

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Last night:

Olive flatbread (Costco) with extra virgin olive oil for dipping

Merguez goat sausages
Goat cheese potato patties
Fried eggs
Roasted cherry tomatoes
 
The goat sausages were from a Tuesday vendor at Eastern Market (Peachy Family Farm, IIRC).  They were quite good.  Everything went together well.
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Baby spinach salad with oranges, radishes, toasted pecans, goat cheese, and shallots; sesame-ginger vinaigrette

Leftover pork chop stuffed with collards

Orecchiette with broccoli cream sauce

 

The orecchiette was an attempt to recreate the version I like so much at Acqua Al 2.  It was good enough but didn't hit the mark.

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Dinner party tonight:

Hors D'oeuvre
Homemade Cold-Smoked Salmon, Creme Fraiche, Home-baked Pumpernickel
Julia Child's Chicken Liver Mousse [an outrageous recipe--heavy cream, a whole stick of butter, chicken livers], Parmesan Cream Crackers

Champagne Duval-Leroy, 1996
Boulevardier Cocktail (Very Old Barton Bourbon, Campari, Vermouth)

"Amuse-bouche" (or what I'm giving everybody when they sit down)
Warm Dates with Marscapone a la Komi

Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese, 2005

First Course
Squash, Saffron, and Orange Soup with Spicy Pumpkin Seed Brittle

Chablis Grand Gru Les Clos, Domaine Billaud-Simon, 2007

Main Course
Slow Cooked Veal, Prunes, and Leeks (from Jerusalem)
Mejadra--Lentils, Basmati Rice, Fried Onions (also from Jerusalem)
Roasted Brussels Sprouts
Home-baked Whole Wheat Bread

Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru, Domaine des Chezeaux, 2001

Dessert
Apple Tarte Tatin with Norman Farm Apples, Homemade Cinnamon Ice Cream

Lillypilly Noble Blend, 2000

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Impressive about the above was that even with such an ambitious menu, hungry prof had time to post the menu on the day of, before the party. I'm always crazy too crazy busy.

yesterday:

first time smoking a brisket. I've oven braised briskets a zillion times, but never done one Texas-style in the bbq. Started it at 11 a.m. using hazelnut wood from a tree that is mostly dead in our yard. Controlling the temperature in a Hasty Bake is a bit of a challenge, as most serious smoke-cooks have offset rigs, but we managed to keep it around 220-230f and had a drip pan with water and aromatics inside to help keep it moist. I knew I wasn't doing a 16-hour marathon, like Tim Carman does, but I underestimated how long it would take. We took it off at 185 degrees intenal temp at 9:30p.m. and ate at about 10, with Rancho Gordo beans and cole slaw. Nice smoke ring and it was very tender and juicy, but next time I'll spring for apple or cherry wood.

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Impressive about the above was that even with such an ambitious menu, hungry prof had time to post the menu on the day of, before the party. I'm always crazy too crazy busy.

That was my thought upon reading it as well.  I couldn't imagine having the time and the presence of mind at 5:18 pm on the day of to post anything, let alone such detail.  Hats off to hungry prof.  Would love it if more people posted detailed dinner party menus -- it's inspiring.

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That was my thought upon reading it as well.  I couldn't imagine having the time and the presence of mind at 5:18 pm on the day of to post anything, let alone such detail.  Hats off to hungry prof.  Would love it if more people posted detailed dinner party menus -- it's inspiring.

I tried to move a copy of it to the dedicated Dinner Parties thread and made a mess of it.  It's there now, but I can't figure out how to keep a copy here.

http://www.donrockwell.com/index.php?/topic/4212-dinner-parties/?p=246333

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That was my thought upon reading it as well.  I couldn't imagine having the time and the presence of mind at 5:18 pm on the day of to post anything, let alone such detail.  Hats off to hungry prof.  Would love it if more people posted detailed dinner party menus -- it's inspiring.

Thanks for the kind words about the dinner party menu (which is now in another thread, but I'm replying here since people's posts about the menu are still here).  I couldn't have done it without my wife, but she has also basically forbidden me from cooking anything "a la minute" for dinner parties.  Too much stress, she says, and she's right. :)  So:

I smoked the salmon last weekend.  It's fine to sit in the fridge for a week.

On Friday night, we knocked out the chicken liver mousse, the bread dough (by necessity), the ice cream, and the soup.

For Saturday, that left the veal dish (which I prepped in the morning and then just reheated before dinner), the bread (the no-knead variety, which is pretty simple), the tarte (also relatively simple), the brussels sprouts (stick 'em in the oven simple) and the rice and lentil dish, which was the only thing that needed some real attention to get done at the right time.

So, truth be told, it was about as low stress as a pretty ambitious dinner party could be.  We even did all of the above with our four-year old "helping" us in the kitchen.

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"Meatless Monday"

An Impromptu Dinner at Zora's, 11/11/13, 7 PM


Barr Hill Vodka (VT) - Raw Honey Eau de Vie
 
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Two Year Manchego and Homemade Dulce De Membrillo
 
(Tragically, no picture was taken, but it was *the* *best* quince paste I've ever eaten, made with Farmers Market Quinces - softer and moister than what you buy, even at gourmet stores. It was fantastic dulce de membrillo.
 
Rancho Gordo Ayocote Blanco White Bean Soup with Fennel Seed, Rosemary, and Meyer Lemon
 
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2010 Domaine Bruno Dufeu Bourgeuil (Loire Valley Cabernet Franc)
 
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Grilled Romanesco Cauliflower with Spinach, Sungold Tomatoes, Roasted Ripe Poblano, and Mustard-Caper-Dill Vinaigrette
 
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Smoked Eggplant Pancakes with Goat Milk Labne-Lime-Mint Sauce
 
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Almond Tart with Leatherwood Honey Caramel and Tangerine Crust 
 
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Conclusion
 
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The Goddess strikes again.
 
Thank you, Zora and Jonathan.  :wub:
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salad of mixed lettuces, pea shoots, bull's blood beet greens, apples, a manchego-like sheep milk cheese, and pecans with an apple cider vinaigrette

slices of sourdough bread toasted with manchego-like cheese and apples

apple crisp

I kinda hate posting after posts like the one above

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Leftover sweet potato cornbread with honey butter

Chard-wrapped polenta chile "tamales"

Guacamole

Leftover goat cheese potato patties and merguez goat sausages 

 

The polenta recipe is from Mollie Katzen.  It's from her latest cookbook, but I found it on Serious Eats.  Basically you're making dolma with a polenta filling.  There was quite a bit of polenta left over, so that will turn up in a future meal somehow.
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Leftover sweet potato cornbread with honey butter

Chard-wrapped polenta chile "tamales"

Guacamole

Leftover goat cheese potato patties and merguez goat sausages

The polenta recipe is from Mollie Katzen.  It's from her latest cookbook, but I found it on Serious Eats.  Basically you're making dolma with a polenta filling.  There was quite a bit of polenta left over, so that will turn up in a future meal somehow.

That is a really interesting idea--it is more of a dolma than a tamale, though. Tamale wrappers (corn husks, banana leaves) are inedible and are basically botanical forms of aluminum foil--protecting the contents from becoming overly diluted while they cook in the steamer. Was it braised like dolmades and stuffed cabbage or steamed like a tamale?
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That is a really interesting idea--it is more of a dolma than a tamale, though. Tamale wrappers (corn husks, banana leaves) are inedible and are basically botanical forms of aluminum foil--protecting the contents from becoming overly diluted while they cook in the steamer. Was it braised like dolmades and stuffed cabbage or steamed like a tamale?

Neither  :) .  The cooking technique had two parts.  The leaves were supposed to be held by the stems and dipped very briefly (20-30 seconds) in boiling water before filling.  Then the filled packages were sauteed in a skillet.  The person who tested this for Serious Eats had used collards and said that they were still pretty bitter after such a short cooking time and that she would use chard in the future.  I had a mix of chard and collards, and my collards were in better condition and were a more uniform size than the chard leaves, so I took those comments into account in the way I proceeded.

I made about 4 chard dolmas and 9 collard.  (The recipe called for 12.)  I put the leaves all the way into the water and took them out with tongs, about 1 minute for the chard and 5 minutes for the collards.  Even doing that, the chard was softer than the collards.

Since they were such a finger food size, I tried eating them that way, and the veins in the greens (even the chard) made that kind of difficult.  My husband used a knife and fork and had no trouble.

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That is a really interesting idea--it is more of a dolma than a tamale, though. Tamale wrappers (corn husks, banana leaves) are inedible and are basically botanical forms of aluminum foil--protecting the contents from becoming overly diluted while they cook in the steamer. Was it braised like dolmades and stuffed cabbage or steamed like a tamale?

Language police intervention:  singular is tamal.  Try it at your local Mexican restaurant and get a real smile in return.

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Yeah, but the joke about the Mexican weather forecast doesn't work at all if you say "Chili today, hot tamal".

Hmmm.  I think it's chile today in Mexico, and chili today in Texas, no beans about it.

Editing to say, Tweaked, that dinner is beautiful.

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"Refrigerator leftover stir fry" - half yellow onion, baby zucchini, red bell pepper half, green beans, couple of shitake mushrooms in the wok with sesame oil and a few splashes of terriyaki sauce.  Separately stir fried chicken with a dollop of hoisin sauce. Then mix together and served over steamed white rice.  Simple, yet very colorful dish.   When there is no menu prepared in advance and there are vegetables/proteins left to use up - a quick Asian stir fry in our go to dinner.  Often we'll throw in some quick fried eggs as the protein since they are usually on hand.

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I am becoming the queen of leftover soup-lunch at House of Dynasty yesterday-after hot & sour soup (oddly sweet) & spring roll, I brought home half of my Hunan shrimp-shrimp, broccoli, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, a little rice. I added chicken broth & a smidge of Tom Yum paste (it was still a little sweet), & voila! Tonight's dinner (Lizzy passed, she didn't appreciate the mixed in rice). The only problem is that reused broccoli gets a little grassy tasting.

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Too many carbs:

leftover wild mushroom bread pudding

turkey burritos (ground turkey, bok choy, shallot, mushrooms, refried beans, roasted poblano, leftover polenta, amber beer) with sour cream and guacamole

leftover chard polenta packets

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I'm limited to one hand for at least another three weeks and didn't feel like walking down to the dining hall for pasta and/or something fried so dinner  tonight was pistachios, Chocos, which are like chocolate corn flakes, and a really bad half bottle of a screw top rioja.  (One cannot use a wine bottle opener with one hand to open the good wine.)  And a few pieces of a Lindt dark chocolate bar infused with cassis.  Yes folks, you can eat and drink crap in Europe.  

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We roasted a Santa Maria-style tri tip over the weekend and have been eating sandwiches and meat hunks over the sink all week.  We also grilled up a mess of red peppers, chicken thighs, squash, eggplant, and portabellos and made up a batch of turkey chili and have been eating all that down slowly as well. Last night was the first night we cooked fresh and it was pan-fried yellow noodles w/ chicken and kale.

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(One cannot use a wine bottle opener with one hand to open the good wine.) 

I should think that one could hold a wine bottle between one's knees and draw the cork with a waiter's-friend style corkscrew, using only one hand. Also, one can find some pretty good wine in screw-cap bottles, although perhaps not where you find yourself.

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In the midst of preparation:

Romaine salad with radishes, cucumber, Campari tomatoes, bacon, avocado, and homemade croutons; sesame-ginger vinaigrette (Newman's)

Roasted rack of lamb coated with Dijon mustard and homemade dukkah

Steamed cauliflower

(I hope your hand heals okay, hillvalley.)

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A big shop at Super H and the emergency, pre-freeze garden harvest were immediately followed by news of an unexpected work trip for Mr. lperry.  A what-needs-to-be-used-now dinner.  Roasted eggplant and sweet peppers in a lime, peanut, sesame sauce, served over rice, sautéed Chinese broccoli on the side.   

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I should think that one could hold a wine bottle between one's knees and draw the cork with a waiter's-friend style corkscrew, using only one hand. Also, one can find some pretty good wine in screw-cap bottles, although perhaps not where you find yourself.

I tried once, broke the cork, and had a scotch instead.  I'm 30 minutes from Italy so I'm able  to get good screw top wine, but on my last trip boots and a coat took priority over the wine.  And burrata, truffled salami, and minipastries.  Again, one can only carry so much when you only have one hand.

 

(I hope your hand heals okay, hillvalley.)

Thanks.  I broke it while rappelling down a mountain in The Alps.

To stay on topic...working dinner (yes, on a Sunday night) at a friend's.  Baked little potatoes, steamed green beans, and chicken breast stuffed with artichokes and Italian sun dried tomatoes.  Washed down with a nice cabernet that she opened ;)

Dessert was birthday cake at another friend's to celebrate their daughter's 11th birthday.  It is the  specialty at a great bakery in town.   We have heard all about this cake and were excited to try it.  Unfortunately no one told us it had some  sort of liquor in it so the birthday girl just enjoyed the beautiful chocolate curls that decorated the top.  The adults however, thoroughly enjoyed it.

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