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Dinner - The Polyphonic Food Blog


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CJS: The gnocchi look fantastic. One of my favorite things, too.

What reason did they give for adding the panko? I have made them without before and am trying to figure out what they would add.
I assume the ingredient makes it easier to manipulate the dough, but I agree it's unnecessary.

I recommend the method offered in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook. The mixture is very light, incorporating no flour or breadcrumbs at all, just ricotta, Parm, egg, salt and a little melted butter. I like a bit of fresh sage as suggested. Whip like crazy.

What I love about the method: take a jelly roll baking pan or large rimmed dish and blanket it thickly with flour. Pretend the flour is oil in a pan in which you're about to fry meatballs, i.e. let it rise up at least 1/4 inch deep. Then, take about 1 1/2 t of the cheese and roll the ball around in the flour to shape it into an egg. Continue. The flour should coat the gnocchi, creating a thin outer layer that helps them retain their shape while the dumpling inside remains incredibly tender and light.

After forming all the gnocchi, transfer them to a plate and firm them up in the fridge.

The porcini sauce looks delicious. I usually just go with melted butter, more sage and Parm.

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Last night was improvised pork tacos, made from a hunk of leftover pork shoulder simmered in the crockpot for several hours with some chicken broth. Once it started to fall apart, I added some salsa verde I had in the refrigerator and a little barbecue sauce and heated a while longer. Quite good served in big flour tortillas with shredded lettuce, halved grape tomatoes, grated cheddar, and low-fat sour cream.

Forgot to add: served with more of the leftover pinquito beans and Mexican rice. (The rice was a combination of recipes from two different Mexican cookbooks. I hadn't really thought about it, but I was a little surprised to find recipes called "Mexican rice" in Mexican cookbooks.)

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I've got to get back to posting some dinners here! I've been making:

Sopa di Mani-Bolivian peanut soup

Leek & Potato soup

Bittersweet chocolate chip cookies with roasted pecans, walnuts and dried cranberries

Flank steak-->flank steak with blue cheese crumbles entree salad

Beef bourguignon over egg noodles (homemade from Arlington market)

A melange of leftovers from the above :mellow:

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Bought some fresh, wild caught Icelandic haddock at Costco today. Made fish chowder--in order to appeal to Veggie-teen, who will eat fish but not bacon, I sauteed the onion in butter and seasoned the chowder with smoked salt--Alderwood smoked sea salt from Washington State, purchased at Arlington Whole Foods (in the cheese department). The smokiest smoked salt I have encountered since the last of my late lamented McCormick hickory smoked salt went by the way. Fish stock, potatoes, parsnip, aromatic herbs, half and half. Delicious. Served with storebought biscuits and a cucumber salad. For dessert--Florida strawbs from Costco, which are huge, but juicy and very sweet and flavorful, macerated in sugar and served over leftover blood orange cake, with vanilla creme fraiche.

With the fish chowder, I had a Spanish riesling (!) I bought at Arlington Whole Foods--for $5.99. Imported by Jocelyn Cambier--from the same folks that make Don Salvador Monastrell, according to the sign. Actually quite decent for the price. A teeny bit of funk on the nose, but refreshing and dry. I'm going to go back and buy some more to use for an everyday white, and for cooking.

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Inspired by the latest Food & Wine magazine, I made a version of their recipe for italian sausage with apples:

Sweet Italian Chicken Sausage sauteed with sliced granny smith apples

Polenta with cheddar cheese

I think I would have liked the recipe better with regular Italian sausage made from pork. However, I was lazy this weekend and didn't want to make an extra trip so had to go with what Trader Joe's carried. I like the combination of flavors and it was a super quick dinner to put together on a weeknight.

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Inspired by the latest Food & Wine magazine, I made a version of their recipe for italian sausage with apples:

Sweet Italian Chicken Sausage sauteed with sliced granny smith apples

Polenta with cheddar cheese

I think I would have liked the recipe better with regular Italian sausage made from pork. However, I was lazy this weekend and didn't want to make an extra trip so had to go with what Trader Joe's carried. I like the combination of flavors and it was a super quick dinner to put together on a weeknight.

I looked the recipe up and bookmarked it. Thanks for the idea.
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I found a 2 lb. bag of shrimp that I had forgotten about, so on Saturday night I used half of it to make shrimp linguini in a spicy tomato-chili sauce. It was actually an Emeril Lagasse recipe, and it really didn't need any modifications. Between the dry rub for the shrimp (which contained a hefty portion of cayenne) and the diced jalapenos in the sauce, it had some excellent heat. Yum!

The remaining pound of shrimp went into another pasta dish--this time with fusilli and arugula (and, of course, some olive oil, shallots, garlic, and white wine), and the recipe coming from the lovely Giada. Much lighter, in both flavor and caloric content, than the previous concoction--but still very tasty. Boyfriend found the arugula to be overpoweringly bitter, but he was pacified with some grated parmesan cheese.

Tonight will be pork chops with chipotle butter (found on Serious Eats, I think), probably with a salad and baked potatoes.

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Tofu dengaku : momendofu from the tofu shop (!), pressed and grilled, then topped with a miso mixture and sesame seeds and grilled again briefly. I used the dengaku miso recipe from Shizuo Tsuji's "Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art," an excerpt of which is available online (and for which I am grateful because I was too stupid to pack our copy of the book when I moved :mellow: ).

Steamed rice tossed with shungiku (chrysanthemum greens), sesame oil, and sesame seeds.

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Mom's retro meatloaf* (made with Campbell's Vegetarian Vegetable soup) with spicy ketchup

Mashed potatoes

Broccolini with garlic

Mixed green salad

2004 Dom. Lucien Lardy Fleurie

*I hadn't made this in ages, and had forgotten how tasty it is. I grew up eating it--it's a recipe my mother got from a soup can label or a women's magazine sometime during the 1950's. Really simple to make. An extra bonus was the way Jonathan's face lit up when he heard that that was what I had made for dinner.

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Dan, those pizzas really do look great. Noticed bags of finely ground semolina at Rodman's and may pick up one soon based on your recommendation.

Zora, ever had tomato soup cake? One of the best things about picnics when I was a kid.

* * *

This past month, I've mostly been eating vegetarian meals or preparing soups and quiches that require just a little meat for flavoring. So very A2 of me, I actually used up a jar of millet I bought ages ago to bake whole wheat bread.

Finally broke down and picked up some bacon and chicken thighs this weekend. There was half of a Spanish chorizo in the fridge, so...

Paella

I really like the recipe, though I used the Arborio rice I had on hand and roasted the peppers in advance. Made a few adjustments, too, both to accommodate the addition of chorizo and to follow José Andres's instructions for preparing a sofrito since I adore lots of caramelized onions. (Malawry's tip: sofrito is great as a condiment for a Spanish tortilla.) The whole cloves of garlic are wonderful mushed into the finished dish.

For some reason March is Frozen Food Month. I started early w frozen artichoke hearts and haricot verts (better than peas!) from Trader Joe's. Rick Bayless recommends the fire-roasted diced tomatoes from Muir Green during winter months. Perfect. Saffron is one of those flavors I used to despise, but during the past couple of years I've grown to love it with rice.

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Recipe? I'm sure Campbell's won't mind. :mellow:

1 1/4 - 1 1/2 lbs. ground beef or ground turkey (Mom's version was with beef, but I've made it many times successfully with ground turkey)

1 large or extra large egg

1/3 cup cracker meal or matzo meal mixed with

1/3 cup milk

1 can Campbell's Veg Veg soup, undiluted

Several dashes Worcestershire Sauce

More cracker meal to dust on top.

Allow cracker meal-milk mixture to thicken. Add all ingredients together and mix well. Spread into a rectangular casserole dish. (I've never done this as a "mounded" loaf--it's usually too soft.) Sprinkle top with cracker meal. Bake in 375 oven until firm in center--25-30 minutes. Drain off some of the fat. Serve with ketchup mixed with some hot sauce.

Zora, ever had tomato soup cake? One of the best things about picnics when I was a kid.

Not knowingly. I have had red velvet cake. But I did miss out on many echt middle-American delicacies, like hot dish, when I was a kid. I ate a lot of knishes, kasha-varnishkes and kreplach.

Rick Bayless recommends the fire-roasted diced tomatoes from Muir Green during winter months. Perfect.

I think you meant to say Muir Glen. Trader Joe's used to have their own house brand fire-roasted tomatoes, but stopped carrying it. Not enough people bought it. Mystifying, since the Muir Glen product is so popular, and the TJ's was every bit as good, and cheaper.

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Ricotta gnocchi with porcini sauce

img0046ur0.jpg

Not the most vibrant looking dish, but damn if these aren't super-easy and delicious. Much less work than potato gnocchi (though likely not better for you), plus you don't have to be fussy, worried that you're going to make them tough. As long as you've got your ricotta ready (the supermarket stuff, like I used, needs to be drained in cheesecloth), these can be put together in no time. And you can freeze the leftovers. Perfect dinner party first course here.

Whoa! How did I miss this? Anyway, thanks for the recipe. My potato gnocchi can be inconsistent and rather lead-like. I will try these.

Zora (anyone)- how would you rate Eco's chickens? I buy meat from them, most recently my favorite is lamb rib chops. I feel like they're a real treat and worth every penny. But the chicken, well, I'm having a harder time justifying the cost, which is about 4x as much as say Coscto (where I've gotten large meaty rotisserie chicken for $5) or at any of the usual large markets.

Thanks for your thoughts- I really want to try one but the last time I had one of their chickens in my hand, I looked at the almost $20 cost and put it back :mellow:

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Zora (anyone)- how would you rate Eco's chickens? I buy meat from them, most recently my favorite is lamb rib chops. I feel like they're a real treat and worth every penny. But the chicken, well, I'm having a harder time justifying the cost, which is about 4x as much as say Coscto (where I've gotten large meaty rotisserie chicken for $5) or at any of the usual large markets.

Thanks for your thoughts- I really want to try one but the last time I had one of their chickens in my hand, I looked at the almost $20 cost and put it back :mellow:

I do occasionally buy a Costco rotisserie chicken, but I find them in general to be overcooked and dry. I used to buy chickens there, but haven't in a long time. I'm trying to eat less factory-farmed meat. But I hear you about the cost of Eco-Friendly. They have two different kinds of chickens--the "Naked Neck" chickens are a chicken-turkey hybrid, and these tend to be the really big, expensive ones. Occasionally, Bev will have half-chickens of those for sale. I have found their meat to be a bit tough. I usually look for a small one of his "Pasture Pure" chickens, which can be $13 or $14. They are very tasty. It's sort of too bad that Cibola has stopped bringing fresh chickens to the market. They were smaller and more reasonably priced, and equally tasty. Bev told me that they got scared off by the farmer at the Charlottesville market who was arrested for processing his own chickens in an uninspected facility--which is what Cibola was doing, too.

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This was quite a tasty meal, though the descriptions make it sound a bit cluttered. Saying salad, pork and rice, and bread would be a lot more succinct :mellow:.

Salad of baby arugula, grape tomatoes, cucumber, red and yellow bell pepper strips, extra-sharp cheddar, croutons; balsamic vinaigrette

Braised [leftover] cubed pork shoulder with red onions, garlic, red and yellow bell pepper, pickapeppa and soy sauces; served over whole grain rice blend* cooked in anise-scented mushroom broth, mixed with sliced mushrooms; all topped with toasted sliced almonds

Marvelous Market rustic boule with soy spread

*Rice Select Royal Grain: brown and red rice, barley, and rye berries, with additional red rice remaining from another container.

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It's the week leading up to my birthday, and that means it's a week of extravagance! Starting with the pizza shown above, and moving on to:

Chicken roasted and crisped in my wonderful convection oven, then tossed in butter and thyme. Oh, and did I mention I stuffed truffles under the skin? I wanted to rub myself in the pan so I'd never stop smelling like this dish.

p1292542mr3.th.jpg

Burgers mixed with coarsely diced truffles, served on sliced batard and topped with melted parmesan, bacon, and drizzled with balsamic vinegar. The ketchup and mustard in the background were for my wife's much more conventional burger. Also, those are HOMEMADE tater tots (also filled with truffles) fried in clarified butter.

p1302543lj3.th.jpg

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Stefanie, your posts are my absolute favorites.
Aw, thanks. I appreciate the props. :mellow:

Dinner tonight was buta kimuchi, thinly sliced pork belly simmered with kimchi. Inspired by a version we'd had out, we topped it with cheese, so it was actually buta kimuchiizu. It was darn tasty, too. Sides were steamed organic brown rice, miso soup with wakame and a boatload of sliced shiitake, and rice-bran-pickled daikon.

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Dinner for the kids:

Santa Maria Pinquito beans, cooked with celery, carrot, allspice, bay leaves, garlic, and chicken stock. Served with a runny fried egg on top.

Cornbread with Toigo peach blossom honey.

Steamed broccoli.

Both kids loved this. It's definitely going in the regular rotation.

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We inherited some Danish blue cheese from a local friend who didn't like it, so we had cocktail hour with cheese, crackers, and Tanqueray Gibsons. Dinner itself was takikomi gohan involving cubed beef, naganegi (looks like a leek, but slightly smaller), shiitake, burdock root, and aburaage from the local tofu store. It was gooood.

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Deviled chicken drumsticks*

Lima beans with butter

Twice baked potatoes

*I couldn't find the recipe I'd used for this in the past, so I concocted my own deviling mixture, rolled the chicken in that and then in bread crumbs. The crumb mixture was part baguette and part buttermilk biscuits. It worked really well. There was no trouble keeping the crumbs on the chicken through the cooking time either, which is something I sometimes have a problem with. Since I hate throwing things out if I don't have to, I had in the freezer what seemed like an endless supply of biscuits that hadn't risen enough when baked but tasted okay. I'd kept them to thaw for a last minute bread item to go with soups or whatnot. They worked really well as bread crumbs, after being whirred up in the food processor with a chunk of baguette.

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(Not quite braised) beef (not short) ribs

Collard greens

Cheese grits

Candy coated bits of chocolate and peanuts :mellow:

2005 (Bonny Doon) Big House Red

I had bought the beef ribs earlier in the week, drooling with anticipation of a “quick” weeknight meal. Silly me. After 2+ hours of slow roasting: not bad, but surely not a quick weeknight meal. The ribs were a tad bit greasy but tasty nonetheless. Picked the bones clean. Next time I have a hankering for beef, I’ll get beef (not short) ribs -- as the three ribs were just the right amount and a good alternative to buying a 3 lb. roast -- and try a dry rub.

Continuing with the quick weeknight meal theme: I also purchased, from the freezer section, Glory collard greens. Dah-um! Those were some good collards. Lots of sodium but nicely seasoned. And, crunchy too! A bit too much liquid for me – which I drained before serving – but I will definitely purchase again.

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Take four brutally expensive farmer's market lamb shanks, age them for a great deal longer than you'd care to think in the freezer.

Spend $140 to replace the ridiculously delicate KitchenAid pasta thingies; decide that you're in the mood to break (the important word here) them in.

Go to Whole Foods, but a bottle of something that seems cheap enough to cook with, but not too disgusting to drink. Maybe a Tempranillo.

Brown the lamb shanks, set aside.

Sweat a handful (two, if you're a chick) of diced onion, maybe three carrots. Throw the lamb shanks in. Pour the wine on. Add water if the wine doesn't cover the shanks. Throw in all that other braising crap. You know, bay leaf, thyme, whatever. We've all been through this drill.

Don't forget a cinnamon stick. Two, if you're using that cheap shit from the bodega around the corner. And a can of stewed whole tomatoes.

Cover, and put in a 285 degree oven for, what, three hours? Four hours? Until the meat is crumbly and all.

In the mean time, do whatever Alice Walker Waters says to do for making pasta.

Pull the meat off the shanks, strain the braising liquid, taste the lamb, decide it's too dry and try to save it with some olive oil and reduced braising liquid. And salt and all. Parsley. You know.

Decide not to open the wine just yet but maybe a little of the duty-free tequila would be OK. Drink tequila. Fight with your wife about whether to use those ravioli form thingies or to hand-cut the pasta. Discover how challenging it can be to get sticky pasta out of a ravioli form, completely fuck up the rest of the pasta dough, and stomp out of the kitchen to drink Prosecco with your guest while your wife saves the pasta and hand cuts it into squares roughly the same width as the pasta roller from the KitchenAid which -- praise Jesus -- did not break down at a critical moment; spoons on the lamby stuff on and fold it into triangles, remembering to wet the edges.

Reduce braising liquid until it's a sticky goo.

Abjectly apologize to spouse and be enough of a man to admit that the hand-cut raviolis don't actually look as though they were made by the developmentally disabled at a charity pasta shop, regardless of what you might have suggested earlier.

Boil the little fuckers, and then toss in a pan with the gooey braising juice.

Open an expensive bottle of wine and eat like a king.

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Waitman, that's precious. Gotta love cooking by the seat of your pants.

Today I'm making chili with "stew beef" from Costco. Cut beef into really small pieces, salt and pepper and attempt to brown in batches which....didn't work. They produced a ton of juice and steamed. In batches. :mellow:

Threw the meat into the crock pot. Opened up spice drawer and gathered a Rachel Ray armful of stuff. Chili, paprika, cinamon, oregano, marjoram, garlic salt, dried onions, dried shallots (I got sick of cutting after the beef) dried chipotle peppers, yada yada. Used guestimates to season beef and poured a beer over it. It's braising now and will get some tomato puree in a bit and we''ll see where we go from there. Woohooo.

Super Bowl Surprise Chili is what I'm calling it.

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Timed for halftime:

loaded potato skins

pigs in blankets

Cuban-style black beans

spare ribs (dry rub, then bbq sauce; long low oven)

Everything was great. I used the yeast angel biscuit dough linked elsewhere to make the blankets for the dogs. It worked very well.

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Where'd you get the tri-tip?
It was a rare treat from one of my cousin's steers. He also sent along a large chuck roast, 2 bone on strip steaks, and a flank steak (a belated Christmas gift).

If you are just looking for a tri-tip I have seen them at Wegman's, and Balducci's.

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Last night featured leftovers of a really good pasta "casserole" that I whipped up on Friday night--whole wheat rotini (cooked al dente); sauteed shallots, spinach, and artichoke hearts; pesto sauce; and ricotta and parmesan cheese; all mixed together and poured into a baking dish, then topped with thinly sliced mozzarella cheese and baked until melted and slightly browned.

The flavors definitely improved after a few days of refrigeration, and the dish is very hearty and tasty, but it lacked a spiciness that I really like in pasta dishes. Next time, maybe I'll throw in some peppers (or at least some red pepper flakes) with the sauteed vegetables.

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St. Marcellin--a soft ripened cheese packed in its own little crockery dish. Dead ripe and gooey. Goooood.

Roasted Eco Friendly chicken

Roasted fingerling potatoes--they were the "oven rack" for the chicken

Farro and black lentil salad

Puree of roasted Kabocha squash

Pear crisp with B&J's vanilla ice cream

2005 Ch. Thivin Brouilly

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