Josh

Aaaand wouldn't you know it, Eric Sandler at Culture Map reports that Kukuri is closed. I wonder if Chef Ishikawa has any other Houston-based plans?

2 new BBQ places opened in the Heights over the past few months (Willow's and Victorian), and I finally got around to trying one. Scott Sandlin wrote a glowing review over on Houston Food Finder, and I largely agree with him. We got a couple 2 meat plates, with brisket, ribs, and turkey. The brisket was nicely done, moist, with well-rendered fat. Assertive pepper bark, just as I like it. The ribs were similarly seasoned, and juuuuust a little on the tough side. Not "tough," just not quite as tender as I'm used to. The turkey was very well done - juicy and so, so deliciously smoky. Sides were pretty good, and all had a bit of spice to them. Creamed corn had bits of jalapeño, but when I want creamed corn with BBQ, I still think Killen's. The potato salad is mustardy, with a bit of creole spice. Charro beans are chock full of diced chiles. The "Flaming Lips" slaw was not quite as spicy as I'd been lead to believe, but was a nice counterpoint to the richness of the meat, and a nice alternative to a mayonnaise-based slaw. Overall a solid choice, and though we got it to go (I'm still struggling through the flu, and have no business being out in public), I think the best way to enjoy this is with a couple beers outside at Big Star.

I would definitely not think of Houston as "inland." I can think of a few places off the top of my head that source from Tsukiji: Kata Robata MF Sushi Zen Izakaya Kuu Kukuri Uchi It ain't all cowboys on horseback and old-timey iceboxes down here, you know?

Hey, sorry for the delay...struggling through a week with the flu. My kids are younger, but here are a few thoughts: NASA - depending on your kid's love for space stuff, it may be worth the drive south to Clear Lake to visit NASA. Discovery Green - this park is right outside your hotel. They have a number of activities year-round, and typically have outdoor ice skating in the "winter." Children's Museum - My 5 year old loves it, but there are also plenty of cool science-y stuff for older kids too. Menil Collection - Fantastic art museum, if the tween is into that sort of thing Art Car Museum - Small, quirky museum focused on the strange and wonderful Houston creation that is art cars. (Also, have a couple St. Arnold Art Car IPAs while you're here.) I'll add more here as I think of other stuff, and will try to ask some friends with older kids what sorts of things they like doing in the city.

Couscous is basically just pasta, so pretty carby. My favorite is quinoa. Make sure and rinse it well before cooking. I oscillate between cooking like rice with a 2:1 liquid:quinoa ratio, and cooking like pasta (lots of water until done, drained and spread to cool on a cookie sheet). Definitely adds more flavor to cook in broth (I like using Better Than Bouillon vegetable base or roast chicken base).

Quick note (to remind myself, mostly) that Kata serves lunch, and has a great $20 sushi special with 7 nigiri, a roll, and salad. Their ramen is also available. Still far and away my favorite sushi in Houston.

Houston Meat Master Felix Florez Parts Ways with Ritual by Phaedra Cook, Feb. 14, 2018 on Houstonfoodfinder.com Curious what this means for the restaurant's sourcing.

Crucial update: I have had the breakfast tacos, and they are the real deal. The chorizo and egg should be in the dictionary under "breakfast taco." I only wish Luna y Sol were closer to my house.

Eric Sandler reports that Ignacio Torras and Luis Roger are planning a more casual pintxos-focused restaurant in River Oaks to be named MAD (sticking with the Spanish airport theme). I celebrated my most recent birthday at BCN, and very much look forward to visiting whatever Torres has planned for MAD. BCN is certainly fine dining, but maintains a friendliness and relaxed-enough vibe that it never feels stuffy (despite the fact that you'd probably feel out of place if you weren't wearing a jacket). Paco, the GM treated us as though we were old friends from the moment we walked up to the front door. They do the classics well, including an extensive gin & tonic list. I have a soft-spot for Spanish culture and cuisine, so I am likely to be predisposed to like a place like BCN, but I do think it does a fantastic job of balancing the classics with modern interpretations of Spanish flavors. Our arroz negro hewed closely to the Platonic ideal, while the confit pork cheeks with lentils and chanterelles introduced a new way for me to obsess over Iberian pork. (Click through to see other photos on IG.)

Cristina and I stopped in to celebrate Whiskey Wednesday (which happened to fall on Valentine's Day this year). Another great meal, especially the North African mussels. I'm a sucker for Harissa, and these plump dudes are served in a spicy Harissa broth with copious amounts of garlic. I very much considered lifting the cast iron skillet to my face to slurp in the remainder.

Kukuri received a moderate amount of hype when it opened, based on the presence of sushi chef Shimao Ishikawa. Ishikawa was behind the (sushi) bar at Michelin-starred Jewel Bako in New York, where I had a memorable meal years ago. I had omakase reservations last week ($175 per person), but ultimately cancelled after hearing rumors that Ishikawa was no longer in the kitchen. I asked a couple of the food critics in town, neither of which had heard anything. A perusal of the Kukuri Facebook page showed that Ishikawa responded to a negative review from his personal account, claiming to have been out of the kitchen since an automobile accident in November. I sent him (or at least whoever is behind the "Shimao Ishikawa" Facebook account) a personal message, and he confirmed that he is no longer associated with Kukuri. While their website still lists him, their frequently updated Facebook page now lists Masayuki Kawai as the head chef. I haven't been able to find out any information on his past work.

I don't think the Pi's are related. The Pi in Houston began as a food truck, and ultimately opened its brick and mortar location in conjunction with Cherry Pie. Not sure if they were always partnered, or if that came with the move from truck to restaurant.

That’s probably closest to the truth. He’s also futzing with the whole One fifth concept and not doing the seafood version.

I'm going to throw down the gauntlet and say that the unassuming storefront Shish Kabob Cafe in Katy puts out the absolute best kabobs in the Houston area (yes, even better than Bijan, though their rice is better). I've been a handful of times, tried lamb, beef, chicken in whole and ground forms, and not once have I had anything less than perfectly cooked meat. Served with buttery rice, grilled tomatoes, and plastic cutlery. This isn't fine dining, but it's really damn good. Start with a small serving of shirazi, and ask for a bit of the crispy tadigh.

Houston chefs seem to have this thing where they get very successful and then try to blow it all up and start over...keeps things fresh I suppose. (See also: Justin Yu closing Oxheart in its prime and reopening as Theodore Rex.) Chris Shepherd is closing Underbelly, and reopening as a steakhouse named Georgia James. Underbelly will kind of reopen in a much smaller space, and be renamed "UB Preserv." Bold move, for sure. I happen to agree with the idea that Underbelly would work better as a smaller, more casual-feeling place. We shall see!

I generally agree with Will's take here. We really enjoyed the food on our visit, with the atmosphere being the one downside. Ortega's cooking is top-notch, but at the end of the day, Xochi is a hotel restaurant, and that kind of kills the vibe for me. It's a very nicely designed room, but the giant TVs behind the long bar were an instant turn-off. The elegance of the food deserves something more. You really can't go wrong with any of the mole dishes. We had 3 different ones and each was rich and spicy in its own way. You might expect some palate fatigue, but each sauce is distinctive enough that you won't get bored.

I'm way overdue in writing something about Field & Tides, considering it's become kind of a go-to for us. The food is vaguely Southern in inspiration. I've been 3-4 times, and honestly never had a bad dish. In general, I've enjoyed their starters a bit more than the mains, though that's my experience at most restaurants. Great brunch/lunch menus, and as befits a Heights restaurant, they have great kid options without pandering.

I patiently waited for a legit bagel place to open near me in DC, and one did (Bullfrog Bagels)...less than a year before we moved away to Houston. Underwhelmed with what folks called the "best" bagels in Houston (Hot Bagel Shop), we began patiently waiting again. Reader, my wait is over. Golden Bagels is the real deal. Perhaps the realest deal I've had since Pick-A-Bagel. I've had both the everything and the sesame. My standards. Firm. Chewy, but not overly dense. These aren't shitty coffee cart bread circles. The spreads are all made in house, and more than get the job done. Sesame bagel + scallion is my #1, followed closely by everything + lox cream cheese. The bialy we tried was a little too puffy for my tastes, but YMMV. They recently launched lunch, which is sure to be popular among the Heights crowd as well. My "build your own reuben" with an everything bagel + pastrami + sauerkraut + mustard was delicious. The pastrami is sliced thin and griddled with melty Swiss cheese. The top/bottom of the bagel is sliced off to give a flat sandwich service.

Cristina and I ducked out of a business cocktail thing early and took advantage of the fact that we had a sitter, and stopped into the relatively new Star Fish on Heights Blvd for a drink and snacks. The chilled seafood tower did not disappoint. Drinks menu is extensive, and will reward multiple return trips to make my way through the various martinis, gin & tonics, and sparkling wines. The "Saltwater" G&T, with star anise and "ocean water tincture" was delicious...a hint of brine, but nothing crazy.

On my eternal quest to truly know tacos, I stopped in at La Fondita Michoacana a few blocks from my house in the Heights the other day and was not disappointed. Situated next door to Tortas El Angel (another place I need to explore), it ain't much to look at, but all of the middle-aged ladies working the kitchen and register were super friendly, even when my halting Spanish wasn't quite enough to meet their halting English. The standard taco fillings are represented, and served on freshly made flour or corn tortillas. The pastor and barbacoa were fantastic on flour, with a good red and green salsa available (I preferred the brighter verde). Enchiladas rojas were done well, with rather tossed-off sides of rice and refried beans. I'd put the tacos a few notches above Tacos A Go Go, a single notch above Chilosos (though I love Chilosos thick tortillas for breakfast) and on par with Unos Pinches. Tierra Caliente is probably still juuuuuuust a little better. That I can easily walk or bike to Fondita means I'll probably eat here more often than any of the others.

The Semifinalists for this year's James Beard awards are out, and there are a lot of good Houston chefs and establishments listed...and one noteworthy exclusion. Xochi is up for Best New Restaurant. I've written here about Chef Hugo Ortega's flagship upscale Mexican, Hugo's, and @will_5198 shared his take on Ortega's new Oaxacan gem here. Tracy Vaught is nominated for Outstanding Restaurateur, for running H Town Restaurant Group (Hugo's, Backstreet Cafe, Xochi, Caracol). Finally, Hugo's is up for Outstanding Service. Anvil Bar & Refuge is up for Outstanding Bar Program, and with good reason. We have an embarrassment of riches when it comes to cocktail bars, but that wasn't always the case. Bobby Heugel opened Anvil in 2009, and it remains the benchmark in Houston. I'm psyched to see Chef Martha De Leon from Pax Americana up for Rising Star Chef. She took the helm after Adam Dorris decamped to the Heights gastropub-ish Presidio, and has kept Pax rolling along as an upper echelon Houston restaurant. The Best Chef Southwest category is packed with a diverse group of Houston talent, as is appropriate for our city. Chefs Coleman and Haywood from Kitchen 713 put out an impossibly diverse menu of fusion dishes that are good enough to win me over despite my strong initial aversion to "fusion" as a concept. Their fried okra with bacon, tomato jam and picked chilies is one of my favorite Houston dishes, and I will also go to the wall for their Black Vinegar Braised Oxtails (with black-eyed pea fried rice?!?). Their brunch is way better than it needs to be as well (think: Thai omelette with nam prik ong, hoe cakes with cured salmon, labne, & preserved lemon, grilled oysters with red curry, etc.). Chef Anita Jaisinghani's Pondicherri has expanded to NYC, but her Houston original is still chugging along full steam as far as I can tell. We've been several times, and the quality hasn't suffered from the expansion. Her Gulf Shrimp and tomato dosa is another top Houston dish for me. Chef Ryan Pera, from Coltivare. Colitvare in the Heights is one of the 1st places we went to when we decided to move back to Houston, and helped convince us the Heights was the neighborhood for us. Ronnie Killen is probably best known for his Killen's BBQ, or maybe even his latest inner-loop Killen's STQ. He's listed as up for Best Chef SW for his work at Killen's Steakhouse, though. I've only been to the BBQ joint, and I try to go back whenever I have the time. The pork rib there is either the best in TX, or at least in the top 5. Tough to decide between the ribs I've had there and City Market in Luling, and more recently, Truth BBQ in Brenham. I'm getting off topic... Trong Nguyen from Crawfish & Noodles. WHAT. IS. UP. The season is back upon us, and you better believe we'll be over there ASAP. You're not going to find a restaurant like this anywhere else. Period. If you come to Houston, you have to go. It's so great Chef Nguyen is getting recognized. David Chang is obsessed with this place, and I wouldn't be surprised to see some versions of Chef Nguyen's dishes show up at a Momofuku near you. Pappas Bros Steakhouse is in the Outstanding Wine Program category. I haven't been, so not much to add there. And last but not least, Jillian Bartolome is up for Outstanding Pastry Chef, for her work at the controversial Aqui. Chef Paul Qui's widely-publicised domestic violence case has led to some intense discussions in Houston about the ethics of dining at the restaurant of a chef accused of beating his girlfriend in front of her child. I haven't eaten there (and very likely never will), but there are many valid ways to look at this (Alison Cook wrote thoughtfully about her decision to visit in the Houston Chronicle).

Local Foods opened yesterday at the new Heights Mercantile development on Heights Blvd and 7th. If tonight's crowd of young cool Millennial kids, still-hip Gen-Xers with their families, dogs, and decrepit Boomers is any indication, they are going to do very nicely here.* I eat at LF more than any other place in Houston, so the fact that they've just opened within a 10 minute walk from my house does not bode well for my bank account. *Can you guess which demographic I'm in?

Lotta good Houston joints on that list.

🚨NOW SERVING TROMPO🚨 (I haven't tried it yet, but I saw the sign as I drove past this week.)

I guess it depends on how "well-regarded" the restaurant is. If it's a casual place, I would probably roll with it, but voice my irritation that they came out too early. In a fine dining situation, I would send back and ask for a manager to explain why we were sending them back. In my experience, in a fine dining restaurant, this would (should) never happen.