Dinner - The Polyphonic Food Blog

[lperry]

Last night:

Phyllo triangles filled with mushrooms in red wine sauce, feta, and pine nuts. In retrospect, I should have run outside and cut some thyme.

Roasted fingerling potatoes with a chipotle sauce

Ya pear

[giant shrimp]

young beet green and lettuce salad with red grape tomatoes

linguine tossed in butter and parmesan, with sauteed ramps and morels

joel gott sauvignon blanc 2008

(the morels, bought at the dupont market, were pristine and beautiful, perfectly intact, but lacking woodland flavor. i assume this means they are cultivated. At $20 for a large handful, wildly overpriced, palely reminiscent of their funkier wild cousins. there are much more assertive mushrooms at the mushroom stand, cultivated or not, even crimini, at a lower high price. these were 100% clean, not a speck of dirt or hair or wing or dew of insect on them.)

[mdt]

young beet green and lettuce salad with red grape tomatoes

linguine tossed in butter and parmesan, with sauteed ramps and morels

joel gott sauvignon blanc 2008

(the morels, bought at the dupont market, were pristine and beautiful, perfectly intact, but lacking woodland flavor. i assume this means they are cultivated. At $20 for a large handful, wildly overpriced, palely reminiscent of their funkier wild cousins. there are much more assertive mushrooms at the mushroom stand, cultivated or not, even crimini, at a lower high price. these were 100% clean, not a speck of dirt or hair or wing or dew of insect on them.)

Can morels be farmed? I had heard that they are always foraged.

Did you saute the mushrooms for a long time to concentrate the flavors?

[Pat]

Last night

Green salad

Baked chicken breasts

Garlic mashed potatoes

Succotash

[giant shrimp]

Can morels be farmed? I had heard that they are always foraged.

Did you saute the mushrooms for a long time to concentrate the flavors?

i don't know much about the subject, but i assume that there are ways of farming morels, and almost any other mushroom. maybe somebody knows?

i don't think the lack of flavor had much to do with the cooking. they didn't have their familiar smell, and there was just something too clean about them.

[mdt]

i don't know much about the subject, but i assume that there are ways of farming morels, and almost any other mushroom. maybe somebody knows?

i don't think the lack of flavor had much to do with the cooking. they didn't have their familiar smell, and there was just something too clean about them.

Good to know. In the future I will have to make sure and ask before buying.

[Pat]

Good to know. In the future I will have to make sure and ask before buying.

I was curious and found this.

[zoramargolis]

last night:

applewood-smoked, charcoal grilled Eco-Friendly pork chops

South Carolina mustard bbq sauce

green beans with garlic

mashed potatoes

2006 ESJ That Old Black Magic

[cjsadler]

This really is a sorta magical, very simple combination of ingredients... like watermelon and feta. The fennel seeds are key, though. Try it.

[lperry]

Last night:

Leek and Potato soup

Crusty bread with herbed chevre

[Pat]

Green salad

White cheese chicken lasagna

This is the second time I've made this lasagna, and it is very good. The idea of making a white lasagna had never appealed to me at all, but one day I had leftover chicken I was looking to use and discovered that I had all the ingredients for this recipe. This time, I planned on having the leftover chicken so I could make it again.

[Anna Blume]

This really is a sorta magical, very simple combination of ingredients... like watermelon and feta. The fennel seeds are key, though. Try it.

Chris: See post #3385 (March 30). The combination is classic in Sicily w roots in the Arab world. Never done it w fennel seeds vs bulb, though, so thanks for the link!

* * *

Baked kibbeh w caramelized onions, pinenuts and pomegranate molasses

Thickened yogurt

Sautéed spinach salad w olives, lemon peel and garlic

Rice-noodle pilaf made w Thai rice noodles instead of angel-hair pasta

2 strawberries

[rkduggins]

Black-eyed peas with langoustine tails

Garlic cheese grits

Sauteed Swiss chard

[Pat]

Garlic bread

Romaine hearts with toasted walnuts, cucumber, tomatoes, Roquefort and chevre; Newman's vinaigrette

"Sick soup" (spicy turkey meatballs in gingery chicken broth with rice)

[zoramargolis]

mache and butter lettuce salad with bosc pear, shaved fennel, stilton and pine nuts, lemon vinaigrette

spice-rubbed charcoal grilled ribeye with sauteed criminis

lentil salad with roasted red pepper, olives, preserved meyer lemon and feta

Trader Joe's chocolate chip ice cream sandwich, split between us

2006 Louis Martini Sonoma cabernet

[lperry]

Black bean chili with various add-ins, the favorite of which was the feta cheese.

[Pat]

Garlic bread

Two-Minute Calamari Sicilian lifeguard style

The calamari is from The Babbo Cookbook and while not as good as I remember it being in the restaurant (go figure ), it was quite good. It had the added effect of clearing out my sinuses. Much needed.

[zoramargolis]

last night, various bravura selections from the mezze-soprano literature:

Tarocco orange, fennel* and tapenade salad on mache and butter lettuce, lemon vinaigrette

merguez (lamb) meatballs with minted yogurt

spiced carrot puree with dukkah

lentils with feta and preserved meyer lemon

marinated roasted red peppers

cucumbers in labneh

roasted barhi dates stuffed with homemade lavender-fennel chevre

Afghan bread

blackberry almond tart

2004 Englora Monsant

*shaved fennel bulb and ground fennel seed

tonight:

baby romaine salad with avocado, shaved fennel and pine nuts, blood orange vinaigrette

lasagna with Eco-Friendly spicy Italian sausage, chard, homemade ricotta and mozzarella di bufala

garlic toast

2006 Regaliali Nero d' Avola

[jpschust]

First day of cooking my way through every single alton brown episode. Pan-seared ribeye. Fan freaking tastic

[rkduggins]

Easter dinner:

Bulliet bourbon Manhattans

Roasted ham with brown sugar gingersnap crust

Hard boiled eggs with watercress parsley sauce

Oven roasted fennel and mushrooms

Lemon risotto

Green peas and garlic whipped with butter and creme fraiche

Coconut-vanilla cupcakes with lilac, ivory, green, turquoise or pink coconut frosting

[Poivrot Farci]

I'd be interested in seeing what you make for Good Friday.

Saumon fumé

with stone ground mustard seeds and eggs “Mireille”

Râble de lapin rôti

stuffed with red chard and my lardo

Bombine Ardéchoise

Braised rabbit in its consommé with olives, potato, mushroom and laurel.

[zoramargolis]

Bombine Ardéchoise

Braised rabbit in its consommé with olives, potato, mushroom and laurel.

Oooh! Love the turnings on those mushrooms!

[Pat]

Easter dinner

To start:

Nuts, olives, and soppressata

Boudinaud Marsanne Viognier Grange des Rouquette 2004

Pan-Crisped Deviled Eggs on lettuces

Roast Leg of Lamb with mint sauce

Glazed Carrots

Asparagus Risotto

Blueberry Muffins

Raspberry Sorbet with chocolate wafers & mint

Domaine Gabriel Billard Bourgogne Rouge 2006

(brought by our guests)

[Anna Blume]

Poached eggs over roasted, store-bought asparagus

Thick slice of toasted Pugliese w thin smear of butter

A few more pieces of dark chocolate Easter egg

And since the oven was on high, a couple of roasted sunchokes. Yummy, but I think I have gotten over these and apples; waiting impatiently for more spring things.

* * *

If I have enough time, tonight there will be osso bucco made w beef vs. veal shanks. I consulted my mended copy of The Classic Italian Cook Book and found a note penciled in the margins at a time when I got my meat from The Orange Street Market, the only place in New Haven that sold veal shanks which the butcher sawed into 2-inch thick sections upon request: "(1 shank=$9)", enough to feed four people.

[monavano]

Recently-

Dove into a fresh loaf of Eve's ciabatta...

Saturday, I made mussels with white wine, blue cheese, spinach, touch of cream (Granville Moore's recipe). I bought the PEI mussels at Slavin's and was very pleased with the freshness and that the vast majority were undoubtably good to eat. Contrast that with Maine mussels from W.F.-many questionable regarding freshness, many broken. Anyway, the broth got sopped up with the ciabatta

Ate more cibatta for breakfast.....

Sunday afternoon, I used morels (mushroom lady at Courthouse, same as Dupont) for a dish of braised chicken thighs with white wine and cream. Served over egg noodles. In braising, the sauce gets deep, woodsy flavor from the 'shrooms.

Toasted some more ciabatta and melted cheese on it in the broiler....

Last night-Chinese take out

[zoramargolis]

I bought the PEI mussels at Slavin's and was very pleased with the freshness and that the vast majority were undoubtably good to eat. Contrast that with Maine mussels from W.F.-many questionable regarding freshness, many broken.

The law mandates that the harvest date be on every bag of mussels. Sometimes the ship date is on there too. Regardless of where you buy them, always ask to see the tag on the mesh bag that the mussels came in, and ask when they arrived at the store. The only place I buy mussels is at BlackSalt or at A&H in Bethesda, which supplies restaurants. Even there, I check the dates and don't buy if it has been too long since the mussels were harvested. Mussels can live for weeks after they are out of the water, if they are kept refrigerated, but they use up their stored nutritional resources in order to survive--gradually starve, in other words--so are not nearly as good, even if they have not "gone bad."

[monavano]

The law mandates that the harvest date be on every bag of mussels. Sometimes the ship date is on there too. Regardless of where you buy them, always ask to see the tag on the mesh bag that the mussels came in, and ask when they arrived at the store. The only place I buy mussels is at BlackSalt or at A&H in Bethesda, which supplies restaurants. Even there, I check the dates and don't buy if it has been too long since the mussels were harvested. Mussels can live for weeks after they are out of the water, if they are kept refrigerated, but they use up their stored nutritional resources in order to survive--gradually starve, in other words--so are not nearly as good, even if they have not "gone bad."

Thanks, Zora. I will definitely ask to see the dates. I've been enjoying mussel dishes more and more over the past few years, and am trying to get comfortable making them at home-demystifying them, if you will. With well over 2 dozen being around $6, they are a wonderful treat that can be prepped in so many ways-I have to get beyond my being hesitant to tackle them head-on.

[Anna Blume]

I've been enjoying mussel dishes more and more over the past few years, and am trying to get comfortable making them at home-demystifying them, if you will.

One of my most nostalgic foods when it comes to firsts and a contender for a last meal. While Gold Rush apples are still around: Bourdain's recipe

[monavano]

One of my most nostalgic foods when it comes to firsts and a contender for a last meal. While Gold Rush apples are still around: Bourdain's recipe

Thanks for the link, A.B.

Last night I made a frittata with asparagus (store bought), cubed red bliss potatoes, Calhoun's Country Ham and ramps* (Bigg Riggs). The egg mixture had a splash of cream and shredded fontina. Served with Caesar salad and crusty bread. Blood orange gelato for dessert (I can't remember the brand, but it was delicious).

*After eating ramps for 3 days, I officially have Appalachian weed breath.

[lperry]

Tonight's ramp-free dinner:

Wilted dandelion salad with walnuts and roquefort in a sherry vinaigrette

Spiced pears

Baked macaroni and cheese made with Irish cheddar and pecorino romano

2006 Querceto Chianti

[zoramargolis]

fresh pea soup with mint

pan cooked, herb-brined Eco-Friendly pork rib chops with pan reduction sauce

farro pilaf

banana cream pie*

2007 Penfold's Koonunga cab-shiraz

*I dreamt about banana cream pie, and when I woke up I remembered that it's important to follow your dreams, so I made one and put toasted coconut on top.

[Anna Blume]

You're welcome, Mona. (I feel your pain )

* * *

Just finished dinner. Oy. Beef shanks took forever. Didn't do the gremalada since Marcella was so passionate about the superiority of its absence that I had my osso buco without.

Did risotto Milanese w bacon instead of pancetta and have finally come to enjoy saffron, a spice disliked intensely when I first made the dish.

A simple fennel salad, no orange, no olives, not even shaved Parmesan, beforehand as I waited. Waited.

No pie. Rats eat bananas. (No rats either, knock on wood.)

[The Hersch]

Didn't do the gremalada since Marcella was so passionate about the superiority of its absence that I had my osso buco without.

Where was Marcella passionate about this? In Essentials, she says merely "I never do it myself, but some people like it" (p. 357-358). I've just been reminded of one of the few things I don't like about Marcella's cookbooks (which I generally love), reading her ossobuco recipes: Just about every recipe in every one of her cookbooks includes the final instruction "...and serve at once", even things that obviously don't need to be served at once, like ossobuco, or stinco (p. 359-361 in Essentials).

[Anna Blume]

Where was Marcella passionate about this?

"The traditional recipe for ossobuco calls for a garnish of herbs, grated lemon peel, and garlic called gremolada, which is added to the veal shanks as they finish cooking. Tradition deserves respect, but art demands sincerity, and cooking is, above all else, an art. In the light of modern taste, I find the gremolada overloads with unnecessary pungency a beautifully balanced and richly flavored dish." (1979, p. 258)

[DanCole42]

Halibut en papillote w/ tarragon, lemon, green onions, leeks, and maroon carrots

Lemon and spinach salad

2007 Coyote Creek chardonnay

Vosges bacon chocolate bar

Milk

[Pat]

Leftover 2 minute calamari

Big salad: Bibb lettuce and frisee, tomatoes, mushrooms, nicoise olives, and homemade croutons; Newman's vinaigrette

The calamari still seemed relatively fresh, but I don't think it's going to stand much more recycling.

Croutons: Costco garlic bread, Penzeys sandwich sprinkle, black pepper, butter and safflower oil. Browned on the stovetop and finished in the oven.

[DanielK]

"The traditional recipe for ossobuco calls for a garnish of herbs, grated lemon peel, and garlic called gremolada, which is added to the veal shanks as they finish cooking. Tradition deserves respect, but art demands sincerity, and cooking is, above all else, an art. In the light of modern taste, I find the gremolada overloads with unnecessary pungency a beautifully balanced and richly flavored dish." (1979, p. 258)

She is, in this case, absolutely wrong. The reason I never order ossobuco out in restaurants is that they always skip the gremolata, and this to me is what actually does provide the balance in the dish.

Anyone have a good source for veal shanks? MoCo leads especially appreciated...

[Anna Blume]

She is, in this case, absolutely wrong.

No, she's merely stating her own personal preferences in a rather characteristic fashion that, thirty years ago, anticipated the type of arrogant things folk like you or me write online.

She also includes instructions for making gremolada (her spelling) just as her mentor, James Beard, publishes recipes for muffins--which he dismisses--in his classic book on American Cookery. I've made the garnish, too.

Perhaps goes without saying, but the beef shanks resulted in a much different dish as far as I'm concerned. Grass-fed beef is mild, of course, but still...

[DanielK]

Perhaps goes without saying, but the beef shanks resulted in a much different dish as far as I'm concerned.

Indeed, and I've found it very difficult to find veal shanks.

[monavano]

It's been a bit of time, but I bought veal shanks at Canales at Eastern Market.

[monavano]

It's been a bit of time, but I bought veal shanks at Canales at Eastern Market.

[The Hersch]

Indeed, and I've found it very difficult to find veal shanks.

They often have them at Whole Foods (or at least they used to; I don't remember noticing recently), but they label them "osso buco" and charge huge sums for them.

[DanCole42]

They often have them at Whole Foods (or at least they used to; I don't remember noticing recently), but they label them "osso buco" and charge huge sums for them.

Ditto for Wegman's.

[DanielK]

It's been a bit of time, but I bought veal shanks at Canales at Eastern Market.

They often have them at Whole Foods (or at least they used to; I don't remember noticing recently), but they label them "osso buco" and charge huge sums for them.

Ditto for Wegman's.

I've not seen them at the Rockville Whole Foods, and I don't miss them enough to drive an hour to Wegman's or Canales...

[zoramargolis]

I've not seen them at the Rockville Whole Foods, and I don't miss them enough to drive an hour to Wegman's or Canales...

I have found them, on occasion, at Shopper's Food Warehouse in Rockville. It's hit or miss--they've NOT had them as many times as they've had. Cheap, too. I've also seen them occasionally at Safeway. If you aren't willing to make a special trip to Eastern Market, or pay a premium at Whole Foods, you can't plan to make them. But if you hit the jackpot at SFH and can be flexible in your meal planning, you're gold. They actually do much better low and slow, so if you can do them one night and eat them the next night, you avoid the agony of waiting forever for them to be done so you can eat them.

And I'm with you on the gremolata issue, Daniel. I find osso buco to taste kind of flat without the zing of lemon zest, parsley, rosemary and garlic. I don't add the gremolata while it's cooking. I sprinkle it on each portion just before serving. Marcella can be curmudgeonly in her pronouncements, and she isn't always right.

[DanielK]

I don't add the gremolata while it's cooking. I sprinkle it on each portion just before serving.

Exactly how I grew up eating it.

Now you're making me hungry.

[Pat]

More salad with garlic croutons

Faux gyros (lamb slices; tzatziki with cucumbers, shallots, and mint sauce; radishes; goat cheese; stuffed in whole wheat pitas)

[monavano]

Meatballs with organic wheat penne (Whole Foods). I took some pointers from several Chowhound posters who swear by Rao's meatball method, which involves adding water to the meat mix to increase the moisture. It really worked! I also use milk or cream to moisten the bread crumbs, and usually make the meatballs pretty wet, but adding even more moisture turned out the softest meatballs I've ever made.

[The Hersch]

the softest meatballs I've ever made.

A couple of months ago, I made meatballs with bread soaked in milk (I usually use dry bread crumbs for meatballs), and when eating them, I said to myself "these meatballs are the softest I ever made. Yuck." I don't think softer is necessarily better in a meatball.

[bettyjoan]

Last night, made spicy "fried" chicken breasts (marinated in OJ and chili garlic sauce, then rolled in breadcrumbs and baked), saffron rice, and sauteed greens (collards, kale, and rainbow chard). I added a little rice wine vinegar and red pepper flakes to the greens, and it really amped up the flavor.

The greens came from my produce delivery gal, who only brings things that a) are local, are organic, and c) she helps harvest herself. While I am THRILLED to be supporting local farmers, I cannot wait for warmer weather. Greens are about the only things that grow in Georgia in the winter, so I can safely say that I've never eaten this many collards in my life. And I'm a southern girl!