Horace and Dickie's, The Shannon Family in Takoma (DC) and Camp Springs (MD) - H Street Location Has Closed

[sunshine]

On what seemed like the hottest day of summer so far, we took a field trip to eat some fried fish. If it weren't so hot, I think I would've enjoyed it more as a quintessential DC experience. Horace and Dickies, 800 12th Street NE, serves up their fish fresh, right out of the fryer, pipin' hot. They're known for their deep fried croaker but we opted for their 6-piece whiting filets, some potato salad and mac and cheese for about $10. The fish is coated with a corn-meal based batter, and the pieces are huge! 6 pieces could feed 2-3 adults. Two small plastic containers of hot sauce, tartar sauce and 2 slices of white Wonder Bread come with the fish. The sides cost extra. Someone else had the croaker and said it was fishier (and bonier). The collard greens are good, the potato salad is mustardy and on the sweet side, the mac and cheese is not creamy, more lumpy (but still delicious IMO). The menu also has fish sandwiches (literally several pieces of fried fish sandwiched between white bread), crabcakes, shrimp, chicken and seafood platters. The hot sauce tastes like Frank's and extra containers of sauces can be had for eleven cents. In the refrigerator case, there were mini pies wrapped in plastic that were labeled "bean custard pie". The place is takeout only, no ambiance to speak of. It's just some deep fryers, a counter to order, and some refrigerator cases for drinks and sides. They have an old Zagat's Guide write-up on the wall that actually says, "in a sketchy neighborhood, so exercise caution." I didn't see any reasons for caution, except for the quantity of food you get for the price. whatta deal.

Gotta love a place where I asked, "What's good here?" and the lady at the counter says without missing a beat, "Everything's good here, baby! It's all good."

[legant]

My first visit to H&D, over 10 years ago: After standing in a relatively short line –just to the alley—went outside to wait for the rest of the group to complete their orders and join me. The smells of the evening were too tempting. I stood on the street, opened my foil packet to sample what my mouth had been watering for, my backpack shifted off my shoulder and fish went flying.

By this time, the line had snaked halfway down the block. A collective gasp came from the line. Four pieces of my “2-3 piece” whiting sandwich laid on the sidewalk; two pieces were still on the bread. I contemplated the “5 second” rule but with so many eyes on me, I knew my father would roll over in his grave if I picked up the fish pieces and returned them to the bread. The line felt sorry for me: they knew just how good that fish was and didn’t blame me for digging right in. Yet, dammit, she’s going to have to go to the end of the line to get some more. She ain’t getting in front of me!

Lesson learned? Go with friends who know what they want, order quickly, and won’t linger at the counter trying to make up their mind. Almost as bad as tourists!

[wdcbrucefan]

The Washington Post ran this article a couple years ago, noting that H&D got an honorable mention from Southern Living for best fried chicken in the US. Top 14 in the country ain't too bad, especially considering most people know H&D for its fried fish.

In Search Of . . .

By Candy Sagon

Washington Post Staff Writer

Wednesday, July 7, 2004; Page F01

... Her article, in this month's Southern Living, lists seven best places and seven honorable mentions, including Washington's venerable Horace & Dickie's Seafood Restaurant in Northeast. ...

[Joe H]

The sad part of this topic is that there are so many people who believe that Horace and Dickie's is really good. And it is. For 2007. But in the early 1950's, on Maine Avenue when it was a working waterfront, Benny's Seafood held court as D. C.'s capital for fried fish and lard fried french fries. Sandwiches had FRESH fried perch filets stacked six inches + high with mayonnaisey cole slaw and cheap Crystal hot sauce (ten cents a bottle at Safeway then) on top of Wonder Bread which, more than likely, had been baked that morning on Georgia Avenue next to Griffith Stadium. Benny's was a long standing D. C. tradition that dated to World War I and was still going strong through the Korean War. Sometime, in the mid '70's, a man named Boyd took over Benny's and moved it to H Street. He stayed there for a number of years selling the same food-but it didn't taste the same without the wharf and the steamy odiferous Potomac literally underfoot. At some point, in the '80's, Boyd moved from 12th and H to the location where Horace and Dickey's is now. Several years later he sold it. And the "recipes" changed. Sometime in the late '90's or around the turn of this Century a writer in the Post wrote about D. C.'s great fish place: Horace and Dickey's. Because of Boyd and "old timers" who remembered Benny's Boyd's had survived. But the "new" article raised Horace and Dickey's to a higher level.

It would have been helpful if the Post writer had eaten at the original Boyd's or been old enough to remember the original Benny's from when Washington was a sleepy Southern town with temporary buildings on the Mall. French fries which are fried in lard are incredible. Benny's had the best. Horace and Dickey's are frozen. Benny's used fresh fish exclusively with most sandwiches featuring perch although cod and haddock were also available. Horace and Dickey's are frozen. While the cole slaw has survived the cheap hot sauce is different and Wonder Bread is no longer baked on Georgia Avenue where you could smell it blocks down the street.

Horace and Dickey's is very good for 2007. But SO MANY people have no idea how good something as simple as a fish sandwich and french fries can really be. D. C. had the best. When John Binkley nominated and oversaw the election of the half smoke as D. C.'s native born food I thought then-as now-that if John (an esteemed and knowledgeable friend and fellow foodaholic) had even been to Benny's when he was really, really young-even today approaching retirement, he would long for his youth-if only for a fish sandwich and french fries and a memory of something that no longer exists today.

When was the last time you had thick cut ,skin on potatoes fried in pure lard?

[johnb]

When John Binkley nominated and oversaw the election of the half smoke as D. C.'s native born food I thought then-as now-that if John (an esteemed and knowledgeable friend and fellow foodaholic) had even been to Benny's when he was really, really young-even today approaching retirement, he would long for his youth-if only for a fish sandwich and french fries and a memory of something that no longer exists today.

When was the last time you had thick cut ,skin on potatoes fried in pure lard?

What do you mean approaching retirement---I'm there baby, and can't get enough of it! Of course, what does that really mean? Tonight I'm preparing to feed 50 people lunch tomorrow; the board members etc. of the soup kitchen where I'm a volunteer cook. When they say you're busier when you retire than when you were working, they really mean it.

The fish sandwich I remember from my youth was at midwestern county fairs where they had this sandwich of fried fish which puffed up when they fried it. If anybody knows how they did that I'd love for you to share the secret.

The last time I had lard-cooked skin-on french fries was the last time I made them at home. Good but nowhere as good as my mama used to make. She did them in her GE electric skillet, twice cooked in lard from a big metal bucket she kept under the rangetop. Oh sweet Lord were those good.

And Zora, yes, I admit, I don't do them in leaf lard, just the cheap stuff, but hey, nobody's perfect.

[Joe H]

My whole point is that however good Horace and Dickey is today it is only a shadow of what Benny's once was. I seriously doubt that Candy Sagon ever ate there or at Boyd's when it first moved to H street. For Benny's she would have to be at least in her mid '50's to remember it. To the best of my knowledge there is nowhere in the D. C. area where you can get fries of any kind fried in lard. Arthur Bryant's in Kansas City (original location on Brooklyn avenue) is the only place I know of. If anyone does go there these are EXACTLY the fries that Benny's/Boyd's had. D. C. also had other places in the '40's and '50's that did fish and french fries like this: the Shrimpboat comes to mind on Minnesota Avenue in Anacostia. I realize that I am going back-yes, almost a half century but this is as much about what is considered excellent today versus genuine excellence that was replaced by what then was considered only acceptible. It also leads into a discussion of McDonald's french fries which, until the Fall of 1966, were fried in 70% animal fat and were incredibly good. (Dick's in Spokane, Washington still serves them-only place on earth with McD's original fries.) When McD replaced those fries with what is similar to today their sales fell through the floor. Over the years people forgot the original fries, orginal hamburgers made with fresh beef, etc. This is also why In 'n Out Burger is so good today-they NEVER changed.

Horace and Dickey's is only a shadow of what Benny's/Boyd's was.

[ol_ironstomach]

To the best of my knowledge there is nowhere in the D. C. area where you can get fries of any kind fried in lard. Arthur Bryant's in Kansas City (original location on Brooklyn avenue) is the only place I know of. If anyone does go there these are EXACTLY the fries that Benny's/Boyd's had.

What, these things?

October, 2006

I can't say that I found them to be that memorable.

[zoramargolis]

And Zora, yes, I admit, I don't do them in leaf lard, just the cheap stuff, but hey, nobody's perfect.

I am far from perfect myself, John--I've never done anything with leaf lard--I don't even have a clue where to find it, let alone would I be willing to pay the price of some hoity purveyor like d'Artagnan, if they even sell it.

I get slabs of pork belly from Han ah Reum or Super H, cut it into small chunks and render it in the oven. It may not be quite as cheap as Armour, but then when you buy lard from them, you get chemical preservatives. With my lard, I get cracklin's...

[johnb]

To the best of my knowledge there is nowhere in the D. C. area where you can get fries of any kind fried in lard. Arthur Bryant's in Kansas City (original location on Brooklyn avenue) is the only place I know of. If anyone does go there these are EXACTLY the fries that Benny's/Boyd's had. D. C. also had other places in the '40's and '50's that did fish and french fries like this: the Shrimpboat comes to mind on Minnesota Avenue in Anacostia. I realize that I am going back-yes, almost a half century but this is as much about what is considered excellent today versus genuine excellence that was replaced by what then was considered only acceptible. It also leads into a discussion of McDonald's french fries which, until the Fall of 1966, were fried in 70% animal fat and were incredibly good.

You need to get yourself to my hometown of Jasper in Southern Indiana. There you will find the Schnitzelbank restaurant, which fries its french fries in LARD. Heaven! Then you need to go to the City Bakery, which fries its donuts in LARD. A higher level of Heaven; actually, they are the best donuts in the world, even though not quite as good as before the place changed hands, but...... Get there early--they tend to sell out. Then you need to travel a few miles west to the hamlet of Ireland, where you will find the Chicken Place, which fries its chicken in LARD. Then you will know for certain that St. Peter has smiled upon you.

[Joe H]

What, these things?

October, 2006

I can't say that I found them to be that memorable.

From the relative distance of my computer screen they look like the real thing BUT I've found that Bryant's is ONLY Bryant's on Brooklyn Avenue in K. C. The several other outposts that have little in common with the original (i.e. the airport and a casino). Assuming that they are the real deal (and they DO appear to be exactly that) you have stoked my hunger. Perhaps lard is an aquired taste. Of course the real question here is, do you prefer Grandma Utz potato chips or regular Utz? Grandma Utz (and Good's Original and a whole host of others) are fried in lard which has a very distinct flavor.

[Joe H]

What, these things?

October, 2006

I can't say that I found them to be that memorable.

I can't help this but I keep returning to your post and obsessing on the photo of what seemed to be authentic lard fried fries!!!! Thank you!!

[ol_ironstomach]

I can't help this but I keep returning to your post and obsessing on the photo of what seemed to be authentic lard fried fries!!!! Thank you!!

Joe, if you're participating in the fitness challenge, then you have my sincere apologies - first for the temptation, and then for not having taken more/better photos of the food Yes, that's the real Brooklyn Ave. Bryant's.

[Joe H]

Without exaggeration I've walked between 25 and 35 miles per week,every week, regardless of weather since the late 1970's. It's the only way that I can keep my weight down. I'm probably my own fitness challenge to continue doing this. However I should note that I've also fought off pneumonia several times from walking in snow and rain!!! I'm probably as obsessed about this as I am about food. Serious.

Calvin Trilling may have been right.

[Barbara]

Calvin Trilling may have been right.

That's "Trillin" and, I was going to point out that you are shockingly skinny as a stick.

[DaRiv18]

$6 for a fish sandwich that features 4 gigantic fish filets (approx. 24 oz of breaded white fish) and two slices of whole wheat Wonder bread (sounded ridiculous, so sign me up). I arrived just as they were emptying a basket of freshly fried mess o' fish, so I got it piping hot. The breading is judicious yet still crunchy and flavorful, but the fish is what it is -- fine. Eamonn's it is not, but actually I'd prefer to have this than a Jumbo Slice. And now that I think of it, I can't pinpoint any truly great fish sandwiches anywhere else (help please?).

[Joe H]

I have not been in several years but when most of the posts in this thread were written Faidley's in Baltimore's Lexington Market had a great fish sandwich perhaps more similar to the original Boyd's and where he first worked, Benny's on Maine Avenue.

[DaRiv18]

Thanks Joe H. I can check that out and perhaps also hit up Fishnet along the way, too. I can't think of others.

[Pat]

I am so embarrassed that I have lived here as long as I have and have never been to Horace and Dickie's. I've heard about it forever and never gone.

[johnb]

I am so embarrassed that I have lived here as long as I have and have never been to Horace and Dickie's. I've heard about it forever and never gone.

Part of the reason so many have never gone, I suppose, is that it used to be located in, shall we say, a somewhat dicey neighborhood. Many times back in the 90's and early '00's I would be the token white guy wearing a tie standing in line with all the regulars. An interesting group of regulars though -- I recall once getting into a conversation with someone next to me in line about the New Madrid Fault and its prospects for soon eliminating Memphis. But I digress. So, while H&D is still there, the neighborhood around it has moved up several notches. So that concern (which was never valid anyway) is now eliminated.

[Pat]

Because of this discussion, I was looking at their website. I noticed a link to their Twitter feed and thought "how interesting" and clicked on it. It turns out that they are opening a new store on 4th Street across from Takoma Station soon.

[Joe H]

Part of Horace and Dickey's is their character. It's an ingredient of everything they serve. I'm not so sure this can be easily replicated but wish them well.

[darkstar965]

Thanks Joe H. I can check that out and perhaps also hit up Fishnet along the way, too. I can't think of others.

Might also try here if in the area and of course can't do better anywhere than Freddy's if a lobster or clam roll satisfies a craving for a (shell)fish sandwich

[DonRocks]

Does anyone know if Horace & Dickie's is a chain or a franchise? They have two different websites, one for each location (see the Multiple Locations Dining Guide).

[RWBooneJr]

Does anyone know if Horace & Dickie's is a chain or a franchise? They have two different websites, one for each location (see the Multiple Locations Dining Guide).

Same family.

[dcs]

Closing of Iconic Fried Fish Carryout Is Part of ‘Cultural Genocide,’ Owner Says, by Gabe Hiatt, February 12, 2020, on dc.eater.com.