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Gadarene

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Everything posted by Gadarene

  1. Fad or not, it's really really tasty when done well, so there's no reason why it shouldn't be part of the D.C. food scene firmament.
  2. I'm going to be living in Bologna for three months starting in October, so I'm taking notes on all of the above posts. Thanks, everyone. :-)
  3. I looked for a thread on this restaurant and didn't find one, but it's more than deserving. Nestled in the heart of 18th Street in one of those Adams Morgan spaces that seems to see restaurants come and go with the seasons, Ban Tre is an unassuming one-room lunch and dinner joint with a surprisingly extensive menu and lots of care taken in its flavors and ingredients. I've only had a few things there so far, but they've all been quite good -- the standout, probably, is their lemongrass caramelized pork chops, which were just as crispy-juicy-hint-of-fish-saucy as I was hoping. Perhaps not a destination restaurant, but certainly one that is worth your time and patronage.
  4. Found it! And the menu (which says that "Hawaiian style" = no rice, for what it's worth). Anyway, this was holy crap good. --- Poké Papa (mdjordy)
  5. If I remember when I'm at my computer, I'll need to post a picture of the poke I had a few years ago at Poke-Poke in Venice Beach. Sublimely simple and absolutely amazing; it blows that $14 saucy gloppy ricefest from Abunai I had yesterday out of the water.
  6. A good poke requires as much skill as a good Bloody Mary. Which is to say, significant. And a good poke doesn't need to have any rice at all...shouldn't, even. Just good cuts of fish and some artful combination of, e.g., soy, sesame oil, green onion, white onion, sesame seeds, chile pepper, seaweed, and masago. Mmmmmm. Asking its appeal vis-a-vis ceviche and sashimi is like asking the appeal of hamburgers vis-a-vis steak, brisket, and beef ribs. They're their own distinct things.
  7. The spicy salmon poke at Abunai is okay and fairly generous with the fish (if over-sauced with an excessive amount of rice), but at $13.95 it's not remotely worth the money. How I long for an Uwajimaya 'round these parts.
  8. Once I get my sciatica under control and can comfortably work in my office again, I selflessly volunteer to go by Mirabelle for lunch one day and have what is sure to be an extremely tasty meal for myself, to put my money where my mouth is. Not ordering the ham sandwich, though.
  9. I should also hasten to add that the D.C. dining scene today is light years better than what it was when I moved here in 2001, or even in 2011. I love the fact that there are interesting, unique, and chef-driven places out there that aspire to thoughtfulness and deliciousness without being self-consciously "fine dining," like Himitsu, Tail Up, Thip Khao, Little Serow, Etto, Tiger Fork, EatBar, and so forth. If the prices at these places are a little higher than they would be elsewhere, well, then I chalk it up to a feature of the area and don't let it diminish my enjoyment too much. I just selfishly wish that there were way more of those kinds of places (and that more of them were within easy walking distance of Mt. Pleasant, dammit! Purple Patch and Beau Thai, I'm looking at you -- why can't you aspire to more?), because I know there can be, because I've seen it elsewhere again and again and again. I want more under the radar hole-in-the-walls with surprisingly awesome food for cheap, too, for the same reason. And while I'm at it, I want a pony. I'd much rather dine in DC now than ten years ago. That doesn't mean I can't begrudge the amount of culinary real estate in this town given over to making money for investors/property managers/corporate headquarters (and/or attracting as broad a well-heeled clientele as possible by aspiring to widely acceptable genericness in its category -- see Kushi taking all the interesting stuff off its menu after a month -- and/or churning out lazily slapped together "on trend" food and calling it a day) as its first, second, third, and fourth priority. (And, to bring it back to the topic again, I'm not painting Mirabelle with that brush, because I haven't been there and because I know that Chef Ruta is not going to allow anyone to lazily slap together anything in his kitchen.)
  10. I just realized this week that Dino's Grotto is on Uber Eats! (This post is not an endorsement of Uber Eats. It's an expression of joy and wonder that the world we live in permits me to push a button and have a Dino burger delivered to my door. Of course, i can't easily munch on delicious pickled carrots and sip a Dino-approved glass of wine while waiting for it, but such is the price of laziness.)
  11. I do think it's important to note that there's a fundamental distinction between the lack of affordable fine dining and the lack of affordable good dining. To my mind, D.C. suffers from both, because it's beset by chains and blandness and general lack of value for money at all price points, not simply the very top. This is significant because, while one should expect to pay high prices for more refined food, luxury ingredients, whisper-soft service, and elegant ambience (which appears to be the thrust of Fintastic's point above), it's simply not true in many, many places that one should expect to pay high prices for delicious or interesting or even exciting food that does not have, or need, the level of refinement necessary to qualify as "fine" dining. Many of the best meals of my life have been dirt-cheap, especially relative to the quality of the food. (That yakitori place in Tokyo with random skewers of amazing chicken parts for $1.50 each...man.) So it is a bit of a strawman, I think, or at least an incomplete argument, to focus on the consequences of DC's unique milieu on the kind of food you expect to pay a lot of money for regardless -- I'm never going to rail against the steep markup at Ruth's Chris or The Prime Rib, for example, because those places are what they are -- because the larger issue isn't "hey, this restaurant opened up catering to the expense account crowd, and I'm mad that it means a legendary chef's prices are higher than they might be," it's more (as someone observed earlier) "hey, i wish there was a more vibrant and affordable restaurant scene at all price points, but that's hard to do in this city because so much of the current development is centered around 'new builds,' which are biased towards the profit margins of the investors and property managers over all else." Fine dining will always be expensive; it comes with the territory. Good dining doesn't have to be -- and, in many many many cities in the world, it usually isn't.
  12. Would that I had a car! And the time and inclination to fight through traffic for an interesting meal. But yes, I don't think our perspectives are nearly as far apart as it seems. And apologies for hijacking the topic! Let's let Jonathan's beautiful post about Chef Ruta's food guide the thread back on track.
  13. Must-try places in Berlin: Industry Standard (food) Lode & Stijn (food) Pauly Bar (cocktails, food) Rutz Wine Bar (wine, food) Twinpigs (drinks, bar food)
  14. It's not impossible, actually, if "transcendent" and "cut-rate" and "highest possible" are toned down for hyperbole. There are half a dozen cities I've been where it seemed, to me, with my upper-middle-class privilege of having a well-paying DC job (which will soon no longer be the case), that cheap/affordable/reasonable, delicious, and even innovative food was virtually everywhere (Portland, Austin, Berlin, Madrid, Tokyo-though-admittedly-because-the-dollar-was-strong, even New York, honestly, if one stays in the midrange independent places and does due diligence, almost anywhere with a vibrant street-food scene and a food-loving culture, a bunch of random smaller places in southern and central Europe) in a way that it is certainly not remotely here in the district. It's not unattainable. It's just unattainable here, in the land of the expense account and the restaurant groups and the property manager preference for chain places or super high-end places or both. It doesn't have to be the way it is here. Not to say there aren't great things here, but I totally disagree with any notion that the things I describe aren't far more attainable in a number of other places. But the rest of your post is certainly quite well-taken.
  15. All are certainly fair points. And every time I've eaten Chef Ruta's food, I've quite enjoyed it, in an absolute sense if not relative to value. So here's a reframing that I hope is less overtly combative: I wish that we had many many more chefs in this town that were worthy of as much veneration as Chef Ruta, so that the breathless posts about his cuisine (and Eric Ziebold, another person whose food I very much respect and who seems like an extremely good and worthy and respectable person, but whose endeavors are the subject of overwhelming hagiography on this board) would not seem, in my fully subjective perspective, to stand out nearly so much. We all want the same thing here. Ubiquitously transcendent and exciting food at ubiquitously cut-rate prices that nevertheless allow for the highest quality of ingredients and the highest possible standard of living for the chef and all of the kitchen and front of house staff. That's little enough to ask, surely? ($26 or what-have-you for a jambon beurre is still presumptively ridiculous this side of Zurich (I think still one of the most across-the-board expensive food cities in the world?), though, and I say that unapologetically as someone who has spent far too much on food in the last decade!)
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