Joe H

Friday evening Roberto Donna hosted a landmark 14 course, 18 taste blowout dinner including a number of truffle courses which I arranged for thirty of us. For many this was the fifth time we have come together for a dinner like this over the past three years, with two previous at his Laboratorio and other blowouts at Maestro and Black Salt. This was the most adventurous of all, even perhaps as ambitious as any dinner he has ever hosted in his Lab. I'm certain there will be many opinions as well as detailed photos from others which will be posted. This is the menu. Please note that the first six courses were unique to the Piedmont region of Italy which he originally is from. Rosted Veal served with a Tuna Sauce Roasted Red Sweet Pepper served with a Tuna Mousse Poached Quail Egg served over Cardoons with Bagna Cauda * Thinly Sliced Veal with Celery, Parmesan Cheese, Champignon Mushrooms and White Truffle dressed with Lemon * Skewer of Nantucket Bay Scallops and Artichokes served over a Salted Cod Cake with a Black Truffle Dip * Duck Stew of Testicles, Tongue, Kidney, Liver, Heart, Skin and Porcini Mushrooms served with a Marsala Wine Sauce * Fennel and Celery Root Soup served with a Puff Pastry filled with Dover Sole and Dill * Raviolini Pasta filled with Spinach and Foduta Cheese served with Butter and Sage * Thin Layers of Chocolate and Chestnut Pasta served with Crayfish Tails and Fava Beans with a Ginger Sauce * White Alba Truffle Risotto * Trio of Virtual Caviar with Lobster served with a Yellow Sweet Pepper Sauce * Trio of Rabbit: The Front Leg in Sausage served over a Parsnip Puree with a Red Wine Sauce Loin Milanesa served over Sweet Semolino and Apples The Back Leg stewed with Chiodini Mushrooms served over Soft Polenta with a Rabbit Jus * Cheese * Blood Orange Granita * Sour Cream Souffle served with a Rose Water Ice Cream * Bombolini The dinner lasted over five hours ending at 12:45 AM; Roberto and five others labored nonstop to prepare what must be as complex and adventurous of a dinner as seen in any Italian restaurant on this side of the Atlantic. Several of the courses elicited breathtaking reactions including the incredible "Duck Stew" which a number of diners raved at length about. Intense flavor, remarkable contrasting textures-as extraordinary of a creation as I have ever tasted. I especially thank Roberto for presenting this to us, believing we were "ready" for such an exceptional experience. My guess is that this is the first time he or any other chef has prepared this for the public in a Washington restaurant. Another remarkable dish was the "Trio of Virtual Caviar..." Even the pasta courses were unique including the "chocolate and chestnut pasta..." The "sour cream souffle with a rose water ice cream" was an appropriate over the top way to end a literal once in a lifetime dining experience. At least four times over the course of the dinner applause broke out for Chef but even then, this was an event that I doubt if anyone could have anticipated. Roberto took chances last night and reached for the moon. I thank him for taking us with him on his journey. A spectacular journey! I also thank the many who shared extraordinary bottles of wine including Dal Forno, Quintarelli, at least a half dozen 96 point+ '97 Super Tuscans, several 96 point + '85 Californians. Particular thanks to Kirby B. and John B. for sharing, "Crackers" and Roe for their help along with several who trekked (again) from Philadelphia and north of Baltimore for this "memory" which each year Roberto has somehow found a way to top. Thank you, Chef.

Really interesting, Steve. I believe that there have only been a couple of times over the past eight or ten years that I've had anything OTHER than the salads at the GAR. I really do like several of them a lot, especially the ahi tuna salads. My wife likes the crab cakes at Coastal Flats along with their corn chowder; I think they're both fairly good and worth the price but nothing I would rave about. Of course at Coastal Flats I like their shrimp ceviche and she hates it! I've never had a red meat course, even a hamburger at any GAR. Ever. Nor a dessert. I don't like their wine glasses, I hate their daily offering of ONE soup. Everything I've said about GAR I would also say about Houston's. Great salads! But in twenty or so years I haven't had much more than this at any of them-in any city! Somehow I think I've been lucky to order what I have over the years!

Both Houston's and Coastal Flats/Sweetwater Tavern have excellent dinner salads.

This board should have a political thread similar to his; it would be interesting to know the various opinions of Bush that different people have who post on here.

When you were in Venice did you happen to go to Alle Testiere several blocks off San Marco square or Le Calandre in Rubano which is just outside of Padua? Also, didn't I read somewhere that you've been to Romano Dal Forno's in Cellore? I was there on Friday. It may be best to contact me off the board so I don't take this thread in another direction. Thanks.

Why do you call "pasteurized" cream and milk "fancy" products? They are less processed products that years ago were the standard before "ultrapasteurized" and their longer shelf life replaced them on most shelves. Yes, they taste better. No, I have not made the two side by side but I have made the same flavor several days apart and there was a significant difference. For myself the difference between pasteurized and ultrapastuerized is roughly equivalent to, say, fresh and frozen french fries. For cream top milk there is absolutely no replacement. I think the real loss is that so many people on this and other boards have no idea of what this even tastes like! I'm just surprised that you would call them "fancy." Years ago in the U. S. and even today in many other countries of the world there are many, many foods still produced and eaten the way they have been for centuries. The real shame is that here it has become increasingly difficult to find them, and, in some instances more expensive to buy the "real" thing. Almost without exception the "replacement" is a poor imitation.

Many people know Mom's Apple Pie in Herndon. What many do not know is that Mom's has a special order "butter crust" apple pie that's about $20 which is the equal of any Rubanesque grandmother's that I've ever had. Also, K-Paul's will ship you their sweet potato pecan pie by UPS. http://shop.chefpaul.com/index.asp?PageAct...PROD&ProdID=152 Please note that the K-Paul's website notes that they are only up to partial capacity of what they were before the hurricane but they are able to fill most orders. K-Paul's itself has not yet reopened. If anyone does order this IT IS SERVED OVER CHANTILLY WHIPPED CREAM IN THE RESTAURANT. This is the recipe for Chantilly Whipped Cream from Chef Paul's Louisiana Kitchen. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU MAKE THIS FROM SCRATCH AND SERVE A "POOL" OF IT UNDERNEATH THE SLICE OF PIE. For 2 cups: 2/3 cup heavy cream 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp Courvoisier or brandy 1 tsp Grand Marnier 1/4 cup sugar 2 tblsp. sour cream Refrigerate a medium size bowl and beaters until very cold. Combine cream, vanilla, brandy and Grand Marnier in the bowl and beat with electric mixer on medium speed 1 minute. Add the sugar and sour cream and beat on medium just until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes. DO NOT OVERBEAT. Until K-Paul's introduced their fresh cracked coconut cake on special order this was their signature dessert.

Intriguing. I've sent them an e-mail asking if their cream is heavy cream. I use Lewes Dairy pasteurized cream and Harrisburg Dairy pasteurized milk now for ice cream in a hand cranked White Mountain freezer. I really wonder what this would produce? I was also just looking at Wegman's selection of imported butter in their Sterling store today. They have about a half dozen varieties but I did not see this. For anyone reading this the butter I am referencing is NOT in the dairy section but in their bread section near the front of the store. Thanks, Don. I will try this. My hope is to order not just their butter but also milk and cream. I'm thinking of the pecan caramel ice cream I can make....

My wife and I had dinner there tonight, our first experience with the restaurant being open. Our experience was brief and disappointing, highlighted when we left by 8 to 10 empty tables on a night when every other restaurant in Tyson's expansion had a lengthy wait.

My wife and I and another couple are going to Charleston-on Friday night. On Saturday we drink at home with neighbors and good friends. This is the link to a post of mine from '04 about Valentine's Day at the Prime Rib. We've attempted to celebrate several New Year's Eves at the Prime Rib over the years with similar results. Today, after several DECADES of experience we go out on the Saturday or Friday night closest to New Year's Eve and sit home on New Year's Eve itself, drinking with friends in our neighborhood. http://www.chowhound.com/midatlantic/board...ages/32271.html With all due respect to the restaurants who depend on this Holiday, we have learned that it is NOT a night for us to be on the road or imbibe outside of our house. We toast (repeatedly) all that brave the elements on the first of the year!

Anyone have an opinion on his dog story? "But Robert, being Robert, kept going. The reason for the tenderness, he said, wringing the towel mercilessly, was that the kitchen had used collie."

Central Market is from HEB and originated in Austin. For lack of a better description it could be called Wegman's Southwest. Arguably the only legitimate competitor to Wegman's for the title of best supermarket in the country. Their Plano location is the best in the Dallas area. The original (and largest) is in Austin. For comparison the Austin store is about the same size as Wegman's Dulles. Flip a coin as to which is better.

Great handle! I am jealous!!!!

Agree that, for me, Le Cinq is the three star (there are nine) that I would return to. It has the former chef who helped build Taillevent's reputation. Pierre Gagnaire is the "cutting edge" three star if you are into this. Ducasse is there but, personally, since he now seems to be everywhere this does not have the same attraction for me. L'astrance is the most difficult reservation in Paris and worth the effort. Two months to the day. Yes, this means waking up at 4:00AM and calling them. Take lunch if this is the only time you can get in. I have actually built business trips around this. One of my better "reviews" on CH was this about L'atalier which I wrote several weeks after it opened: Please read the above if you have time. I put quite a bit of thought into it (most of my posts anywhere I don't even proofread!) knowing that it was probably the first post on this restaurant on any food board. It's been over a year since my last visit and it will be interesting when I go back next spring to see how it has evolved since I wrote the above. I would also give serious consideration to Jamin [Now Café Jamin and unrelated] (two stars, Robuchon's original location ((he was considered the all time greatest French chef when he closed his restaurant in the mid '90's in Paris)), Violon d'Ingres (Christian Constant and his wife, Catherine-a one star that, like Jamin, has dishes as good as any three), La Regelade (considered by many to Paris' best bistro) and yes, I would (and have)return to L'atalier du Robuchon. Especially the first day you are there since you'll probably be sleepy and looking for an early dinner. "Dining in France" is a superb resource for Paris' better restaurants with links to numerous reviews and detailed info including phone numbers. CALL YOURSELF TO MAKE THE RESERVATION FROM HERE; MOST PLACES SPEAK ENGLISH. Most of the ones noted above are DIFFICULT RESERVATIONS. Particularly, L'Astrance, Le Cinq, Jamin, Violon d'Ingres, Taillevent. It is possible because of the recent rioting that busnenss may have fallen substantially but because your trip is two months out you should still start MAKING RESERVATIONS NOW. Have a great time!

I also like Boudro's on the Riverwalk. Great prickly pear margaritas which are really hard to find in the Southwest-at least done correctly. I also second any of the Pappas Bros. restaurants. Pappasito's is very similar to Rio Grande Cafe, but somewhat better. Wildly popular, as is Pappadeux. Pappadeux is not great Creole or Cajun but very good for what it does. Arguably the best beef bbq in Texas (which for most means the world) is only an hour or so out of San Antonio in Luling at the Luling City Market. Either google this or look at one of the many lengthy threads of eG about TX bbq. This place is THE standard which most agree on. Rudy's has the "experience" and ambience out near Six Flags Fiesta Texas but most of the Q is far behind what can be found in Hill Country or about halfway between San Antonio and Austin. Over the years I've eaten at most of the bbq joints/groceries/roadhouses/farms (Salt Lick) mentioned in books or on boards. Yet today, when I have the time, I'll drive the two + hours roundtrip to Luling and return to the City Market. This link is from Roadfood's website: http://www.roadfood.com/Reviews/Writeup.as...D=583&RefID=583 Excellent photos and note the total agreement that it is worth a 100 mile pilgramage, Roadfood's highest compliment! Arguably La Fogata is San Antonio's best Tex Mex; it's a different type of experience than Pappasito's. : http://www.lafogata.com/ It's about a fifteen minute drive from the Riverwalk in the direction of northwest S.A.

Speaking of tuna: Saturday night, sitting at the bar in Kinkead's, I had the absolute best tuna carpaccio I have ever had! Anywhere! Shaved rare tuna with raisins, capers, pine nuts, shaved fennel, arugula and olive oil. A GREAT dish!

Serious question: how much are you willing to spend and what kind of experiences are you looking for? When I think of "foodie vacation" I am thinking of several blowout dinners; if this is true they can become a very real function of cost along WITH THE ABILITY TO SECURE A RESERVATION at a restaurant like L'Astrance or several of the three stars.

"Pauli Moto's (which was NOT open and looks disappointingly like a variation of P. F. Chang's with a Japanese bent-yes, you will still have to drive to Philadelphia to experience Morimoto-we did NOT get what some of us thought Washington was worthy of." Sad, but a confirmation of my post from September 30th. We ARE worthy of the Philly original, not a vanilla shopping mall competitor to P. F. Chang's regardless of whose name is on the marquee. There will be long lines of the curious for the first few months; let's see if they are still there next Spring. Coastal Flats, a locally owned "original" if you will, ultimately will be the pre-eminent Tysons Corner I dining destination.

Roberto set the standard and maintains it today in his Laboratorio. Tosca IS excellent. But Roberto's is as good as the best in Italy. Maestro is also outstanding (especially their lobster ravioli) but I believe the various pastas are more a part of the daily menu in the Lab with several always represented.

Angelina's crab cakes are not cheap. $28 for a crab cake platter with two crab cakes. I think your reaction was similar to mine: they were "good." Not great but rather, "good." Of course this is $28 good and for this they should have redirected me in my life's goals! But several years ago we would drive from Reston to Harford Road to go to Angelina's rowhouse and feast on their crab cakes and crab imperial. Based on my own visit in September I won't make it past the beltway now....the D. C. beltway. Having said this, the nondescript Bawl'mer rowhouse ambience on a commuter street which passes through a marginal neighborhood, this is a tired restaurant whose time has past. My last visit was actually rather sad; Baltimore Magazine retired this place to their Hall of Fame for crab cakes after five or six #1 finishes in a row! Today the dated clippings still line the walls of their foyer, all at least several years old. A shame. This was once more than worth the 90 mile roundtrip drive.

I wonder now if Angelina's was under new ownership when I stopped there. Also, to be fair, I had asked for a broiled crab cake at Angelina's and, on their menu, they recommend fried. I also had broiled at G & M. For the other places I mentioned-I was just trying to give a reference point for what I considered an excellent crab cake regardless of location. Believe it or not I was really thinking of D. C.'s Prime Rib and forgot that the restaurant actually started in Baltimore! I know it's not the same as when it was on Bel Air road but have you been to Bo Brooks in its new Inner Harbor location? They used to have lump crab cakes that, while a couple of steps behind Angelina's, were still very good. It's been years since I've been there, though.

Really nice website with a number of expressive, well written articles. Thanks for the introduction. Much appreciated. I've had the filet mignon of tuna at The Inn at Little Washington. It is very good there, too. But North 44's is just charred "right" on the crust (for lack of a better word) with a depth of flavor that the French Laundry also had. I don't know if it's a particular source and a particular kind of tuna but I'v had North 44's a number of times over the years and, on each visit, it still is superior to any other that I've had. To be honest, the FL has about three bites-at most-in their version. The one time I had it I just wanted more and, after sharing a bite with my wife, there was nothing left after I'd my two. Serious. Three bites, total. But this is Keller's philosophy, that anything after the initial few bites is downhill. At North 44 I felt every bite was outstanding. By the way, I had an incredible piece of fish at Lumiere a couple of years ago. I think it was a sea bass but I'm not sure. But it was one of the best pure fish dishes I've ever had. Plain, simple, just extraordinary flavor and texture.

Based on a truly disappointing visit about six weeks ago I strongly disagree with those who are recommending G & M. (Forgive me, everyone!) There is just no comparison between it and, say, the Narrows in Kent Island which I continue to believe is Maryland's best lump crab cake. G & M is indeed big/huge/large-they are just not nearly as good as what can be found elsewhere. Filler, mayonnaise, Indonesian crab-whatever-there's just not a lot of flavor or many lumps of sweet crab meat for that matter. I sat in my car and just shook my head after taking a couple of bites, just not believing the reputation they have garnered for this. A week after G & M I returned to Angelina's which I have raved about for years. Another disappointment. Faidley's was good on a visit about two years ago-but Angelina's was, too. (Note: everyone on this and other boards rave about Faidley's crab cakes. They are NOT their best dish. Faidley's makes a fresh deep fried fish sandwich piled five inches high on sandwich bread (Wonder?) with house made cole slaw and hot sauce that is awesome. Awesome!!!! On par with Benny's at Maine Avenue fifty years ago, FAR superior to Horace and Dickey's which is a pale imitation of Benny's and Boyd's when it was on H street (before it changed names (and taste) to Horace and Dickey's a number of years ago. Two years ago at Angelina's the best dish was not their crab cake but their crab imperial which was superb. But on the last visit we didn't try that. To be honest, Wegman's is currently selling Chesapeake Bay lump crab meat for $21.99/pound. That's about $15 less than it normally goes for-WHEN you can find it. I'd argue that the best crab cakes are ones using this local lump crab meat which can be made at home. Excepting this, the Narrows, Jerry's crab bomb in Seabrook, Stoney's in Broome Island, Captain's Galley in West Ocean City and Kliman raved about the roadside dump called Ocean Odyssey in Cambridge which is a converted Red Barn drive in from the '60's. Locally, the Prime Rib has a really good lump crab cake.

From October 11th: There is a great deal of excellence and effort in the D. C. area that just hasn't been touched on. It was encouraging to see Tom give both Vidalia and Obelisk three stars. Both restaurants are excellent and rate the kind of attention they received on several boards three or four years ago. Obelisk is a quiet, personal restaurant well suited to a special evening. At its best, as in Italy, it presents exemplery ingredients simply and deliciously. It is reassuring to know that its chef-from its heights in the late 90's-is back. At one time Playboy called this one of Ameica's 50 best restaurants. He was the chef when this was published.

Kinkead's. Black Salt. Houston's. Sweetwater Tavern. Coastal Flats. Restaurant Eve.