French Fries

[vdorjets]

I think the Fry Plate at Palena is the best in town since, in addition to excellent fries, it comes with crispy onion rings, potato croquettes and, best of all, fried lemon wedges.

[u-bet!]

In the guilty pleasure category, I nominate the garlic fries at Gordon Biersch.

[Adam23]

I'll give my vote to El Pollo Rico. Nothing fancy here. Just properly fried and salted frozen steak fries. So good.

And in 2nd place, McDonalds fresh out of the fryer can't be beat.

[synaesthesia]

And in 2nd place, McDonalds fresh out of the fryer can't be beat.

Agreed. I was fascinated that Jeffrey Steingarten favored them a lot. I kinda like some of the slightly soggy ones too.

[u-bet!]

And in 2nd place, McDonalds fresh out of the fryer can't be beat.

Oh, for the good old days when they used to be fried in beef tallow!

[Pool Boy]

In the guilty pleasure category, I nominate the garlic fries at Gordon Biersch.

Are they anything like the fries from Taylor's Refresher in Napa, CA?

[nanci]

Pool Boy, your pic of the fries from Talyors' Refresher is awesome! Thanks for sharing.

[Joe H]

I'll give my vote to El Pollo Rico. Nothing fancy here. Just properly fried and salted frozen steak fries. So good.

And in 2nd place, McDonalds fresh out of the fryer can't be beat.

McDonald's are an absolute joke. I could not be more emphatic in my comments about this. In 1967 McDonald's had a huge advertising campaign to try and legitimize the frozen potatoes that they introduced around the United States. Prior to this they used fresh potatoes which they stored in a dark room/building for a week or more then peeled them leaving the skin on. They were cooked twice with the last time in 70% animal fat. The McD in Downey, CA which has a separate "museum" building adjacent to the restaurant has numerous photographs of the original cooking process. Growing up eating these McDonald's built a huge national reputation in part because of their french fries. When they stopped it was a travesty. It was also a comment that McDonald's was about popular culture and homogonized food and no longer about food that tasted good. Yes, good. At one time McDonald's used fresh hamburger and made milk shakes from scratch with Ray Kroc's MixMasters. There's a reason that McDonald's grew and that reason is that in the '50's and early and mid '60's it had good food, much like In-n-Out Burger does today. (In-n-Out hasn't changed since it opened in 1948; McDonald's has.)

It all came to an end in the Fall of 1966.

Today, there is one place on the face of the earth that still serves McDonald's original french fries: Dick's in Spokane, Washington. This is NOT related to the Seattle Dick's but it is a store created by a man who was turned down by McD in the late 1950's for a franchise. Frustrated, angry he went to Southern California and worked in a McD for a month or so. Then returned to Spokane and opened "Panda" (aka Dick's) serving the EXACT SAME FOOD AS McDonald's. Today, he still serves the same french fries and milk shakes although the burgers have changed a bit. I met him four or five years ago when he was in his mid '80's. He was as ferociously independent as Michael Landrum and as proud of what he had introduced to Spokane. USA Today honored him as having the second highest grossing independant fast food restaurant in America-I believe he was doing something in excess of $5 million a year with walk up windows. Serving McDonald's original food-with a "new" McDonald's down the street that sits almost empty at lunch time on most days.

Last Friday I had french fries at Duckfat in Portland, Maine ( www.duckfat.com ) who arguably may have the best french fries in America, perhaps challenging Brussel's best. (Duckfat is owned by the chef/owner of Hugo's who won this year's James Beard Award as best chef in the Northeast beating out Boston, Providence, etc. Duckfat serves a number of the exact same soups, salads and dishes that Hugo's does. At 3:00PM last Friday every single seat in the restaurant was filled-at 3:00PM!) Sitting at the counter in Old Port I thought long and hard about who has America's best french fries: Arthur Bryant's in Kansas City who still fry them in lard, Hot Doug's in Chicago who also has duck fat fried fries on weekends, Thrasher's on the lower end of the Ocean City boardwalk (ONLY this location-NO others) and Michel Richard's Central.

Not once did I give a second of thought to McDonald's of today. But Dick's in Spokane, AKA McDonald's original fries-still fried in 70% "animal" fat, may give Duckfat a run for the best on this side of the Atlantic.

Michael sorely needs to introduce french fries to Hell Burger...duck fat fried french fries. To the best of my knowledge D. C. doesn't have anything like these...yet.

If Jeffrey Steingarten noted McDonald's french fries of today he should know better. There was a huge uproar over forty years ago when they switched to frozen potatoes.

[The Hersch]

then peeled them leaving the skin on.

Okay, how do you peel potatoes and leave the skin on? Doesn't peeling potatoes sort of definitionally involve taking the skin off? Even if they're the Finest In America?

[Joe H]

Okay, how do you peel potatoes and leave the skin on? Doesn't peeling potatoes sort of definitionally involve taking the skin off? Even if they're the Finest In America?

Sorry, sliced not peeled.

[jparrott]

duck fat fried french fries. To the best of my knowledge D. C. doesn't have anything like these...yet.

Bourbon Steak does them.

[Heather]

Bourbon Steak does them.

Doesn't Blue Duck do their fries in duck fat?

[Andelman]

The fries I had last night at Granville Moore's were pretty damn good. In fact, every batch of fries I have had there has been pretty solid.

I also really like the fries at Eventide.

[Pool Boy]

Pool Boy, your pic of the fries from Talyors' Refresher is awesome! Thanks for sharing.

I wish it was my picture! I yanked it down from someone else's photostream on Flickr. ;-)

[Rhone1998]

I really dig the frys at Cork, with that whole lemon zest thing going on. Homemade ketchup, too. Hope this hasn't already been mentioned up-thread, but I didn't see anything.

[Kibbee Nayee]

I'm not an expert on this subject, but I've my fair share. Most recently, the fries at Five Guys in Springfield impressed me. On the daily message board, the part of Idaho they come from is written. They are fried to perfection and malt vinegar is offered. Very good.

About a month ago in San Francisco, I had lunch for three straight days at the Buckhorn Grill. Aside from the fact that this is the best tri-tip beef sandwich I've ever had, the fries were out-frikkin-standing. I think there are only six of these out west, so if Don or JoeH or anyone here wants to go in on a franchise with me, we'll kill the downtown sandwich lunch market.

[Elyssa]

I love the fries at Brasserie Beck. The fries at Lola's (on 8th St/Barrack's Row) are also very, very, very good!

[Joe H]

Bourbon Steak does them.

I had Bourbon Steak's french fries about a month ago and wrote this about them ( http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/616782 ) :

"Anyway, fifteen minutes into the meal our order was taken for the second time. The waiter forgot to write the appetizers down on the first visit. Three small cups of french fries were brought to our table with three companion sauces: homemade ketchup with a kind of pickle relish mixed in, "chef's homemade" bbq sauce and a creamy, onion flavored dip. All three were weak imitations of either Beck's homemade mayonnaises or what I've had in a number of frites stands in Belgium. The french fries cooked in duck fat tasted no different than Beck's either. I believe that Beck's are frozen. (What do I consider good french fries? Central! The best in the D. C. area and among the best anywhere.)"

Siimply, Bourbon Steak's french fries have nothing in common with Portland, Maine's Duckfat. Nothing in common. Having said this I thought Beck's three dipping sauces were better than all but two of the seven I tried at Duckfat.

D. C. still doesn't have anything like them although Central's (I have no idea what they are fried in or how many times they are fried) are worthy competitors. Still, I believe that I prefer Portland's Duckfat.

[mdt]

D. C. still doesn't have anything like them although Central's (I have no idea what they are fried in or how many times they are fried) are worthy competitors. Still, I believe that I prefer Portland's Duckfat.

Doesn't Richard's cookbook have this recipe?

[hmmboy]

What do I consider good french fries? Central! The best in the D. C. area and among the best anywhere.

Fries are so subjective, but I agree with Joe that Central has the best fries in the DC area. Those, and the fry plate at Palena (which I order as much for the Meyer lemons and onions as for the fries) are the only ones I would go out of my way for. Not sure about the best anywhere - that would require much more thought than I can muster this rainy morning, but nothing is as memorable as the french fries in the original Coney Island Nathan's that my dad took me to when i was a kid - a long time ago.

[Joe H]

Fries are so subjective, but I agree with Joe that Central has the best fries in the DC area. Those, and the fry plate at Palena (which I order as much for the Meyer lemons and onions as for the fries) are the only ones I would go out of my way for. Not sure about the best anywhere - that would require much more thought than I can muster this rainy morning, but nothing is as memorable as the french fries in the original Coney Island Nathan's that my dad took me to when i was a kid - a long time ago.

Nathan's at Coney Island had different fries in the early '60's than they do today. They looked the same but the taste was different. My guess is that Nathan's used fresh potatoes then and perhaps different oil but this is only a guess.

From "Happy in the Kitchen"

1 large baking potato (about 12 ounces), per person peeled

peanut or canola oil for deep frying

Fleur de sel

Fill a large bowl with ice water. Trim each potato into a 3 to 4 inch long smooth-sided block, then cut lengthwise into 1/2 inch slices. Cut each slice lengthwise into 1/2 inch long strips. Trim the fries 3 to 4 inches long by 1/2 inch squares. As you work drop the potatoes into ice water. Leave the potatoes in the ice water for at least a few minutes to rinse off the starch; they can be refrigerated in the water for up to a day.

For the first frying, heat the oil to 325 degrees in a deep fryer or a deep heavy pot. If using a pot, get out a fry basket. Remove the fries from the water and dry well on a kitchen towel or paper towels. (If the potatoes are not well dried the oil well bubble up; be careful.) Place a handful of potatoes in the fry basket and carefully lower into the oil; do not crowd the potatoes. If the oil bubbles excessively, lift up the basket for a few seconds then return the potatoes to the oil. Repeat, if necessary, the bubbles should calm down. Cook for about 4 to 5 minutes, or until the potatoes are cooked through but just lightly colored. Drain on paper towels and repeat with the remaining potatoes. The potatoes can be fried a few hours ahead and kept at room temperature until the second frying.

For the second frying, reheat the oil if necessary to 325 degrees. Lower the fries into the oil a batch at a time as before, and fry for 4 to 5 minutes, or until crisp and evenly browned. Drain on paper towels, sprinkle with fluer de sel, and serve hot.

He does not specify the source for his potatoes (Duckfat does on its blackboard menu-they use Maine potatoes and noted where in Maine they were grown.)

Michel's cookbook does have the recipes for his "Very fresh ketchup" dip along with ginger remoulade and shallot dressing.

Again, I believe that Thrasher's on the lower end of the Ocean City boardwalk use peanut oil, Arthur Bryant's on Brooklyn Avenue in Kansas City uses lard and Dick's in Spokane (McDonald's original pre 1966 french fries) use 70% animal fat.

The Belgian fries website: http://www.belgianfries.com/bfblog/

In Belgium Maison Antoine in Brussels is considered by many to be the most famous of all the stands. This is a particularly good article noting several that the author feels are the best in Belgium. http://btheremag.com/2009/04/01/hot-chips/ I've been to Maison Antoine but it's been almost ten years. At the time I remember their being served with tartar sauce and being shocked at how good the combination was. McDonald's in Belgium serves a flavored mayonnaise with their fries.

Photos of 261 different frites stands in Europe (yes, 261!): http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=friterie Maison Antoine is pictured on the first page along with several others including page 8. "Holly Eats" on Maison Antoine: http://www.hollyeats.com/MaisonAntoine.htm

Maison Antoine and Belgian frites in the U. S. (from 1999): http://www.businessweek.com/1999/99_22/c3631157.htm

[goodeats]

I recently visited where my neighbor works and he hand-cuts the fries. The bar is considered a dive, but it's quaint and nice inside. It's the LA Burger and Grill on Columbia Pike in Arlington, near the drafthouse. He seasons them with Old Bay, though, so if you are not a fan of the seasoning, then ask it to be omitted. Otherwise, they were the best fries I've had in awhile! (Reading this thread really made me miss Chef Miles's fries at the old Eventide. :-( )

[TheGut]

I love french fries that have been fried in glorious duck fat and have praised duck fat fries in all their glory.  I now think I have a new favorite.  French fries, that have been fried in beef fat.  Flat out love it.  Some of the best beef fat fries in the area are at Bside in the Mosaic in Merrifield VA.  I have to have them every time I go there. 

I thought I would throw that out there and see what other people/posters think on who serves some of their favorite fries in the DMV. 

[DaveO]

While scanning through this old thread I noticed many esteemed restaurants.   Well here is a plug for a less than esteemed restaurant--5 Guys;  Specifically the Cajun Fries.

Those babies are spicy and contagious.   Oh my.    OTOH:   While eating them though I was pretty sure that instant calories were converting to instant pounds.  But they are tasty spicy devils!!!!

[DaRiv18]

Red Apron’s beef fat rosemary fries are the best I’ve ever had. (Which was today). And that’s before I discovered its buried treasure.