Miami Danny

A big shout-out to the big man-truly humble and caring in spite of his tough-guy image. MAP Magazine is an alternative arts magazine based in Miami's Wynwood arts district, and DR was kind enough to assist me in a piece about 'hidden bars' that includes PX, as well as NYC's PDT and others. MAP Magazine Please go to page 17 for the piece. This is the 'Pleasures' issue for which I was the Guest Epicurean Editor...

Funny. I was in DC last week and managed two lunches at Central. Arriving at about 1:30, there were plenty of seats at the bar, and the service was relaxed. Reminded me of the old days when I would go on a Monday, not Sunday night, early, and start the night off with a good cocktail, the faux gras/rillettes, and move on to a hamburger, or a lobster burger, depending on how fruitful my week was. I got a chance to chat with both Chef Richard and with Chef Maupillier, and they were both friendly and relaxed (especially when I brought up Michel from Bistrot du Coin, who had actually introduced me to Chef M when Central first opened). Although the NYTimes piece had come out the day before, they were pretty mellow about it when I brought it up. I split the shrimp burger with fries, mac&cheese, the faux gras/rillettes, of course, and the chili soup (coming from Miami I was both cold and hungry) with my brother. I asked about that last item, and both chefs assured me that chili is French. Everything was definitely 'top-ten'. I went back the next day for the Pied de Cochon ($16), and it was easily the best lunch I've had in a long time. The sauce was reduced foot-cooking broth, finished with whole mustard and demi-glace, and the mashed potatoes, fried onion rings, and frisee/lardon salad made up an amazing plate. I drank the $8 Merlot, got a decent buzz. Great service, everyone was helpful, almost cheerful. Must be a great place to work. I tried to hit Bistrot du Coin later in the day, but at 6:40 it was mobbed. I'm kind of glad that I made that foot my last meal in DC. Incidentally, if you've never had it, it looks like a big eggroll, with the sauteed foot-meat and mushrooms stuffed inside a sausage-casing, breaded and fried. There were also plenty of decent wines at $40 and under, and lots of Fee Brothers Bitters back of the bar for cocktails. The place is still rock-solid. I have some photos at DailyCocaine that I took with the Chef, and of course, the foot.

Tim, Timmy, T-Car, c'mon, bro-ham! Don't be so hard on yourself-you can outwrite at least one of the other two T's in your sleep.

One question-is the lobster burger really worth $28?

I think what Mark was saying, is that the chef is not going to be insulted if you request your burger cooked as you like it, for godsakes. And, with all due respect, if the waiter forgets to ask you, just go ahead and tell him how you would like it cooked. Twice, if you have to. You'll both be a lot happier.

Thank you. Donna is very touchy about his bankruptcy (as are his former creditors, I assume). Believe me, I understand completely. Of course he is a public figure and fair game. That is why I wanted to see the context in which Kliman raised the subject.

Can someone link the Kliman? I can't find the article to which Donna is reacting.

It's not just the water, it is the bottle in which it is packaged that negatively affects the environment. Also, although tap water is often held to higher purity standrads than bottled water, some cities, like DC, always seem to have a problem with the water supply for various reasons (usually an aging system). If the water supply is fine, then tap is fine; but I filter the water I drink at home in DC and Miami, and all the restaurant has to do is install a filter to serve tap as well.

Yes. But this is easily the top restaurant story of the moment, and the resultant pub, including crossover stuff, may have been worth it. Chodster also was playing to his audience, who probably see his smack at Bruni as wacky but righteous.

I can definitely see why you would NOT want to wait 45 minutes for pasta-that's a young man's game! I won't do it. , even though I used to love Roberto's sauces. But this is like an old Italian restaurant where the husband's in the kitchen shooting daggers at everyone, and the wife's out front ringing her hands, looking out over the swarming crowd for a familiar face to smile at. Can be either charming or irritating, depending on one's mood/patience level. As far as the bar in the back goes, I used to drink Grappa back there, but that was just because my wife used to work there. I never saw anyone else drinking anything back there. Odd, but this is Adams Morgantown, Jake.

I think the landlord may be part of the problem. My guess is a chain would do well here.

Report from last week-While the noodles taste fresh and are pretty snappy, the sauces/soups they come with/in aren't very good. I removed my noodles from the soup and ate them with a little hot oil and vinegar. As far as the dumplings, soupy ones had none, and were chewy and off. When we asked the server why they had no soup, she brought us another round-also soupless, hard, and tasteless. The 'fresh-made' (on-the-spot, I believe they call them) dumplings were atrocious-skins thick and hard to chew, filling bland. Sometimes homemade ISN'T better. Oh, Full Kee, why did I forsake thee?

Visited the bar last week for a great bottle of inexpensive French wine and some rabbit stew (meaty and rich and enough for two)-a must when my wife visits DC. Service at the bar was great, although it seemed the crowd at the bar was smaller (no smoking?, really miss the smoking). Esp. satisfying in light of the DREADFUL meal we had at a new French eatery in Adams Morgan.

Sans insanity, maybe, but not nearly as good.

Then how do you explain Rosa Mexicano?

Here's the Bourdain quote that I believe gets at the heart of the thing "...THROWDOWN: the object of which is to allow every web-fingered geek with a backyard grill--or half-mad muffin maker to proclaim, “I beat Bobby Flay at makin’ barbeque!” at the heart-warming end of show--before returning to tend their meth labs." It kinda clashes with AB's man-of-the-people pose. (Although it's funny on an us vs. them level-us being, well, us; and them being the rednecks.)

To be honest, now I feel as if I've offended the ignorant narcissists out there! My apologies!

While you will probably be on the hotel strip, there is actually a great 'center of town' where the locals gather in the park. Try any one of these stands that look good, (tamales, tacos, etc.) and don't ask for anything 'hot'. You can take the bus there if you're on the strip.

According to Vienna, they're available at Zack's in Baltimore. Of course, in the spring, if you're in NYC, try the Shake Shack. I also believe you can get Vienna dogs at Targets that serve food.

Unfortunately, you can't put the toothpaste back into the tube. Now that restauranteurs know they may be blogged in their first minute of service, the smart ones make sure they've got it right-right out of the box-I'm not saying it's fair, but it IS happening.

Exactly. My point was that, practically, you're screwed.

By illegal, I meant it is a violation of the business's contract with the CC processor/CC company to refuse to accept any charge amount, no matter how small. Practically? That is another matter, obviously.

It is actually illegal to refuse any charge/debit amount. And, to be honest, I don't think business owners are crying over those fees any more than the rent, insurance, phone bill, etc., etc. It's just the whole nickel-and-dimed to death thing that's annoying.

Honestly, it is impossible to not take credit cards. There's always gonna be a Full Kee here or there, but 90% of your big tabs are paid with credit cards. Sure, $20 here or there is fine, but to expect your customers to carry bundles of cash is silly, and not just because of potential crimes. And also, I get kind of annoyed, as a customer, when I have to use a bar's ATM in order to pay cash. Now they're collecting a fee from ME for THEIR convenience! Also, sometimes people who pay with a credit card do so because they don't HAVE the cash in their account. It's just the cost of doing business, man!

I'd like to know if all the restaurant blogging has had the result of making restaurants better? I tried to read the article, but it was so boring I could barely get through it-I guess reflecting the subject matter (ignorant narcissists).