Rose's Luxury, Chef Aaron Silverman's Modern-American Phenomenon on 8th and G Street in Barracks Row

[Kev29]

Just a heads up that on Saturday night we were told - both while waiting in line outside and again when providing our contact information after requesting the second seating - that they are being more strict about full parties being present to be seated.  It sounded like they may have had a run of people somewhat taking advantage of their 15-minute grace period. (this is why we can't have nice things)

Dinner was amazing as always.  Two very minor regrets - the pasta courses right now are all somewhat similar.  All are fantastic, but if you are ordering pretty much the entire menu of small plates, as we did, I'd probably pick one or two rather than getting all three variations on a theme.  They also had a fish special (small plate) on Saturday night, that while I wish I could remember more of the details, I didn't enjoy as much - came on top of a chimichurri-esque (it may have actually been chimichurri) that to me was a bit too grassy.

That being said, a very minor nit (and a poor ordering choice on my end) in an excellent meal.  I could live off that pea cake...

Thanks for the info, Eric. Thinking about going a on a Saturday in a couple weeks, could you tell me what the line and wait was for you?

[Pat]

FWIW, I arrived tonight at 4:50 in the cold rain, and there were approximately a dozen people ahead of me.  I got a seat at the kitchen counter.

Some people were hanging out in Molly Malone's waiting to get in line closer to opening and/or when the line started to build.  I recognized the voice of a woman a number of people behind me who seemed to know a lot about how the system worked.  I took a look back and realized she most surely was the waitress we had when we dined on the roof last June.  Whether she still works there and was coming in on a day off or is no longer there and was coming in for a meal, I do not know.   Either way, I'd say her presence in line says something about the restaurant.

The bread was a fresh-from-the-oven and toasty warm challah, served with a black sesame seed honey butter.  This was the best part of the meal.  A+

To start, I got the chicken fried oysters with tzatziki, which are back on the menu, and I was quite pleased.  They were a little unevenly (mostly over-) cooked but still a B+/A-. I was a little disappointed with the burnt romaine I loved so much last year, as the lettuce portion was really scrawny and overly charred; the dressing was as good as before.   Others that came out looked even more charred and were just flaking off carbon.  A hefty portion of lettuce holds up better to the charring.  Sad face.  B-.

I didn't inquire into details of the hot chicken, though I heard them warning people away from it if they didn't like spicy food.  It was pretty hot but not unbearable.  I wouldn't have ordered it if I realized it came on toasted white bread, though.  I'd already eaten a lot of bread.  It had thinly sliced pineapple and some kind of papaya, as well as the sauces that heated it up.  It was interesting to watch them assemble this dish for other people after I knew what it looked like.  C

The server brought me a gratis portion of the Carolina Gold rice, which I recalled from the rooftop meal last summer.  Rice cooked in butter, butter, and more butter.  I had a few forksful, gave a little to the woman next to me, and brought the last bit home because I couldn't bear for it to go to waste.

Chocolate meringues came with the bill.  I am stuffed full.  (To keep with my grading scheme, I'd say a B overall.)

[darkstar965]

Thanks for the info, Eric. Thinking about going a on a Saturday in a couple weeks, could you tell me what the line and wait was for you?

As another FWiW, we went the Monday before Xmas and got there at 4. It was cold but no precipitation. There were 14 ahead of us then and, by 5 (still a half hour before open) the line was over 100. Maybe some holiday boost but it was a cold Monday. Ever since Bon Appetit published in October, this has become the city's toughest table by a good margin. Definitely want to plan accordingly but enjoy!

[darkstar965]

FWIW, I arrived tonight at 4:50 in the cold rain, and there were approximately a dozen people ahead of me. I got a seat at the kitchen counter.

Some people were hanging out in Molly Malone's waiting to get in line closer to opening and/or when the line started to build. I recognized the voice of a woman a number of people behind me who seemed to know a lot about how the system worked. I took a look back and realized she most surely was the waitress we had when we dined on the roof last June. Whether she still works there and was coming in on a day off or is no longer there and was coming in for a meal, I do not know. Either way, I'd say her presence in line says something about the restaurant.

<snip>

Chocolate meringues came with the bill. I am stuffed full. (To keep with my grading scheme, I'd say a B overall.)

I was talking with a well-known local chef recently about Rose's who shared an anecdote. Evidently this person, a central figure in the local dining scene, had phoned Rose's to ask about booking a VIPish type table on the sly for a dear friend...and was denied. While the chef was highly annoyed at this, there is something fundamentally decent and democratic about how Rose's seems to operate.

[genericeric]

Thanks for the info, Eric. Thinking about going a on a Saturday in a couple weeks, could you tell me what the line and wait was for you?

I got there at 3:45 on Saturday and was the fifth party in line - I say party because the line definitely filled in ahead of me as we got closer to 5pm. That being said, everyone was fair and I would have easily been seated had I not requested the second seating ( I was the first to do so). But keep in mind, the high on Saturday was 25. In my experience the line is lessened more by rain than by cold. After I went to Molly Malones for a few and to warm my toes after, there was still a line 50+ to check in as I went to move my car.

[Kev29]

Thanks all. Sounds like Rose's line is keeping Molly Malone's in business.

[Rieux]

I hate football with a passion - but the rest of America does not.  Am I right to think that it might be relatively easy to get a table at Rose's during the Super Bowl, as most people will be at home?

ETA:  Never mind, just realized the Super Bowl is on a Sunday (duh) and they are closed on Sundays.

[Mark Slater]

I hate football with a passion - but the rest of America does not.  Am I right to think that it might be relatively easy to get a table at Rose's during the Super Bowl, as most people will be at home?

ETA:  Never mind, just realized the Super Bowl is on a Sunday (duh) and they are closed on Sundays.

I would bet about a thousand people have the same idea.

[DaRiv18]

I thought this past Saturday would be "relatively easy" to get a table, since Restaurant Week is all about addressing diminished demand, and many would opt for Restaurant Week deals instead of places like RL.  I was wrong:  4:40, I was about 100th in line.  

[DonRocks]

Has anyone ever addressed the question of why Rose's Luxury is so popular?

(Don't mistake this sociological question for a culinary criticism; I've simply never seen anything like this in nearly a dozen years of running DC restaurant websites. Little Serow had Komi, and West End Bistro had Eric Ripert's picture; Rose's Luxury came out of nowhere and sucker-punched the entire world.)

[Bart]

Since Don won't answer my other question and sent me here, I'll give it a shot. 

Hype drives popularity, which drives more hype, which drives more popularity and long lines, which drive more hype.  (Half the discussion about Rose's are about the lines and lack of reservations).  All of that hype and popularity gets the place recognized by Bon Appetite which kicks everything into high gear.  The lines are so long that you can't get in, which drives more people to try to get in.  It's human nature, you want what you can't have, and the fact you can't have it makes you want it even more.

If you do actually make it in the door, the food and staff and experience all live up to the hype and you end up all warm and fuzzy and feel very loved, and you can't wait to go back.  Which of course drives the hype and popularity even more.  It's a damn version of a damn perpetual motion machine!

What I don't know or understand is how it all got started.  The first time I heard about the place (and I'm on DR damn near every day) it was already a thing.  They seemed to fall from the sky and instantly turn into the place to be.  The.  Place.  To.  Be.  How'd they do that?

[Pat]

What I don't know or understand is how it all got started.  The first time I heard about the place (and I'm on DR damn near every day) it was already a thing.  They seemed to fall from the sky and instantly turn into the place to be.  The.  Place.  To.  Be.  How'd they do that?

It was on the radar from the day of opening because of the people Silverman had worked for and with.  He's also local.  Some of the people teasing it out  on media/social media at the beginning might have been shocked at how much it panned out, but he did have a platform when he started.

[Tujague]

It was on the radar from the day of opening because of the people Silverman had worked for and with.  He's also local.  Some of the people teasing it out  on media/social media at the beginning might have been shocked at how much it panned out, but he did have a platform when he started.

I think beyond that, Barracks Row--and the Hill in general--was primed and ready for something really special, beyond the mediocrities and mostly local chains that had long populated the area. Eighth Street SE was already drawing people, but Rose's was truly unlike anything else the Row had seen. And even though, say, Beuchert's has its fans, Pennsylvania Avenue, even though its in close proximity, simply doesn't draw people in the same way. It's still not a culinary oasis by any means, but it's a far shot better than when I moved there in 1999, when Banana Cafe and Trattoria Alberto passed for haute cuisine there.

[DonRocks]

I think beyond that, Barracks Row--and the Hill in general--was primed and ready for something really special, beyond the mediocrities and mostly local chains that had long populated the area. Eighth Street SE was already drawing people, but Rose's was truly unlike anything else the Row had seen. And even though, say, Beuchert's has its fans, Pennsylvania Avenue, even though its in close proximity, simply doesn't draw people in the same way. It's still not a culinary oasis by any means, but it's a far shot better than when I moved there in 1999, when Banana Cafe and Trattoria Alberto passed for haute cuisine there.

What about Belga Cafe? That was way better than anything 8th Street had ever seen.

[Tujague]

What about Belga Cafe? That was way better than anything 8th Street had ever seen.

Yes, but that was several years before the Row went through its major makeover, and even though the food was better than what could be found elsewhere on 8th St., it still lacked on service and atmosphere issues, and the cooking could be spotty. (I haven't been back in years because I found it too cramped and noisy, the service scattered, and the food not a particularly good value.) Again, I think it's the right place at the right time--Belga has succeeded by being above the local average during a transformational time, but it didn't seriously rethink how you do business in a competitive atmosphere, which I think Rose's has done.

[genericeric]

Has anyone ever addressed the question of why Rose's Luxury is so popular?

It's the first time, ever, that both my wife and I, who have very different tastes, had that 'wow' moment from a restaurant experience at the same meal. No part of it was disappointing to either one of us with greatly different expectations and tastes. For that? Yes I'll stand in line for an hour in the rain. I'm sure we'd all answer that question differently, though.

[darkstar965]

Has anyone ever addressed the question of why Rose's Luxury is so popular?

(Don't mistake this sociological question for a culinary criticism; I've simply never seen anything like this in nearly a dozen years of running DC restaurant websites. Little Serow had Komi, and West End Bistro had Eric Ripert's picture; Rose's Luxury came out of nowhere and sucker-punched the entire world.)

Several Factors:

- Macroeconomic given all the factors making DC attractive to any restauranteur

- Location close to the seat of government, metro and a fast-developing area in its own right

- Consistency of the kitchen; this hasn't been written about enough despite the zillions of words penned

- A demonstrated ability to straddle the incredibly-diffficult line of innovation and deliciousness in dish design; not every dish but in many that tend to be fundamentally accessible.  Interesting but also really good if you will.

- Innovation of the service model; well-covered by Bon Appetit and really interesting in doing something fundamentally different than a Marcel's, the Inn or other fine-dining, traditionally great service venues. Still, Rose's is really delighting a generally younger and relatively affluent clientele

- Not sure any DC restaurant has ever won Best New spot in the US from a major source like Bon Appetit. The lines lengthened and the hype increased after this. Many tourists in DC now seek the place out as a reason to come here.

- Silverman's personal story and experience

- Pricing isn't cheap but reasonable; far from insane

It's a unique bundle of factors. Not the lines. Those are symptomatic with above more root causes imho.

[lion]

I think Rose's is the antithesis of the classic Washington DC star restaurant, i.e. Steakhouses, larger than life Italian, or Nouvelle cuisine. Historically those K street lobbyist account level meals drove the DC scene and limited accessibility by expense or networking. They were stuffy and a bit bland in pretension as the work life here dictates.

Also, in the past five years, the city has fundamentally shifted as 20-30 year olds prefer to live in a neighborhood in DC, not own cars, and quite humorously tend to be hipsters in their free time. The demographics have changed more in the past five years than in the preceding 25 years from my personal observations. They don't want the classic dining experience in DC anymore from the 1980-90s.

Rose's has a vibrancy and a uniqueness in tone because it tries to be fair and treat everyone equally. You may not be able to afford to order the entire menu like a majority of people may when they dine with friends, but you can wait in line, and get into one of the best restaurants in DC and out with a reasonably priced bill for two.

Without even talking about the food, I think it is a good symbol of the city has changed.

[jasonc]

Also I think it's a really good name.

[turbogrrl]

What I don't know or understand is how it all got started.  The first time I heard about the place (and I'm on DR damn near every day) it was already a thing.  They seemed to fall from the sky and instantly turn into the place to be.  The.  Place.  To.  Be.  How'd they do that?

All I know is that the moment I tasted the pork and lychee salad that first week they had a pop-up at Hogo, I was in hogo nearly every night for the scant few weeks Silverman had the kitchen there. I'd never heard of Silverman, and I was worried that Rose's Luxury might go the way of Suna, but that didn't stop me from adding him on every social media I could think of just so I would know when Rose's finally opened for real.

And they did, and it was even better than the pop-up, and it's lovely, and even my in-laws fell in love with it, and I really wish I had more free time to stand in line. There's magic in those dishes.

[darkstar965]

All I know is that the moment I tasted the pork and lychee salad that first week they had a pop-up at Hogo, I was in hogo nearly every night for the scant few weeks Silverman had the kitchen there. I'd never heard of Silverman, and I was worried that Rose's Luxury might go the way of Suna, but that didn't stop me from adding him on every social media I could think of just so I would know when Rose's finally opened for real.

And they did, and it was even better than the pop-up, and it's lovely, and even my in-laws fell in love with it, and I really wish I had more free time to stand in line. There's magic in those dishes.

That pork and lychee dish is addictive. It's also arguably the best example of Rose's ability to balance innovation and taste, something so very many others fail trying to do.

[darkstar965]

Also I think it's a really good name.

Agree! You know the story, right? As Tom S. put it in his first piece on Rose's (Oct, 2013 in WaPo):

"Fun is in his blood; the restaurant's name is a salute to the chef's long-gone grandmother, Rose Silverman, revered in her time for her dinner parties, poetry and playwriting. "She enjoyed life and having fun," says her grandson."

Even that's good stuff. :-)

[The Doctor]

If you wait in line right before they open, is it possible to defer to a later seating time? Not all members of my party would be able to arrive by 5:30 p.m.

[darkstar965]

If you wait in line right before they open, is it possible to defer to a later seating time? Not all members of my party would be able to arrive by 5:30 p.m.

Yes. I believe they will take names looking for 2nd seating.

[DaRiv18]

If you wait in line right before they open

. . . then you might be so far back in line that you aren't guaranteed seating that night.  I showed up 20 minutes before they opened and missed out that night.

[genericeric]

If you wait in line right before they open, is it possible to defer to a later seating time? Not all members of my party would be able to arrive by 5:30 p.m.

I've seen some busy weekend nights where the folks toward the back of those who were able to get in that evening (not the back of the line, who weren't able to be seated at all) were among the first diners seated because so many requested either the seating 30 minutes after the first wave (they split it in half to not overwhelm the kitchen) or requested a later seating.

[DonRocks]

[A general comment, *not* aimed at any recent posters because this has been going on for a long time: Please consider writing about something other than the line at Rose's Luxury. Readers will appreciate it, the restaurant will appreciate it, and I will be forever in your debt. If there's really that much interest, I'll get someone from Rose's on here to answer questions for a day or so regarding the line (I mean this - I will ask them), but my instinct tells me that, in general, it's time to being detailing the menu items, discussing specifics about the service, etc.]

[Pat]

More tables opening up!  (sort of)  Silverman is opening a fine dining restaurant next-door to Rose's, in the current Homebody first floor space. It will be open 4 nights a week and be a coffee shop/cafe during the day.

[DonRocks]

More tables opening up!  (sort of)  Silverman is opening a fine dining restaurant next-door to Rose's, in the current Homebody first floor space. It will be open 4 nights a week and be a coffee shop/cafe during the day.

I hope this works out well for the dining public who cares about quality - which needs a next generation of Frank Ruta and Johnny Monis; not a next generation of José Andrés and Jeff Tunks which is what several others are trying to become. We have not had any new heros in a long, long time, and the fact that this restaurant is next door (like Little Serow or Sou'Wester or Palena Cafe) is a very encouraging sign. The best of luck to Aaron and the entire Rose's Luxury team.

[LauraB]

The best part of this news?  They will be taking reservations!

[DonRocks]

The best part of this news?  They will be taking reservations!

Indeed, perhaps in the short-term, Laura (I hate that I haven't been more often, but I just don't want to wait in line!); in the long-term, "controlled growth" is a pretty big one.

One day the lines will be gone - I don't know if it will be next month, or next year, or next decade, but they'll be gone, and I really hope that Rose's settles in and becomes a go-to restaurant for people who *love* restaurants - for many, many years to come.

I have been fearing "The Press Release," but now it looks like we won't be seeing one for awhile. As things stand, Aaron can take a bow and assume his rightful place in the upper echelon of respected DC-area chefs.

[Kev29]

the fact that this restaurant is next door (like Little Serow or Sou'Wester or Palena Cafe) is a very encouraging sign. The best of luck to Aaron and the entire Rose's Luxury team.

Maybe the best comparison for Silverman would be his mentor, Sean Brock, who's second restaurant (Husk) is just down the street from his first. And now there's a Husk in Nashville too.

[DonRocks]

Maybe the best comparison for Silverman would be his mentor, Sean Brock, who's second restaurant (Husk) is just down the street from his first. And now there's a Husk in Nashville too.

And there's your example of getting while the getting's good. Like, now.

The 2006 James Beard nominees from the Mid-Atlantic?

Maestro (closed), Charleston, BreadLine (closed), Obelisk, and Striped Bass (closed).

[lion]

One day the lines will be gone - I don't know if it will be next month, or next year, or next decade, but they'll be gone, and I really hope that Rose's settles in and becomes a go-to restaurant for people who *love* restaurants - for many, many years to come. 

That transition for restaurants is quite challenging. Hopefully he will be able to make it.

[Rieux]

Wonderful dinner last night (although a little less wonderful than my first time there, mainly because I loved 95% of the menu options the first time, and only about 80% this time).  What was really cool, though, is that President Obama was there with a large group.

4 of us ordered all the small plates, and the brisket, a bottle of wine + 3 additional glasses, and 1 dessert and we got out for $77 per person.  I cannot think of a better value for money in this city.  I can go to a mediocre place on 14th (Etto, I am looking at you) and spend the same.  Service was a little off (our server had just started a month ago, and it showed), but all in all a lovely dinner.  Best dishes of the night (besides dessert) were the brisket, the smoked ricotta "gnocchi" (which were much more pierogi-ish), the Rose's spicy chicken, the grilled avocado (which I am totally making at home), and the pork leechee salad, as usual.  Misses for me were the tofu with spicy fish broth (wayyyy too fishy for me, but others loved it), and the pasta with lemon caper butter and duck egg, which was just boring.

Also, I am obsessed with the pea cake dessert here.  I would love to get my hands on the recipe somehow.

[DanielK]

What was really cool, though, is that President Obama was there with a large group.  

Man, that must have been a sight, him standing on line for 2 hours outside the restaurant...

[The Doctor]

Wonderful dinner last night (although a little less wonderful than my first time there, mainly because I loved 95% of the menu options the first time, and only about 80% this time).  What was really cool, though, is that President Obama was there with a large group. 

Say hi next time. Did you actually see Barack? From what my party was able to gather, it was just Michelle. (There were a handful of mentions on Twitter.) We saw the large party but couldn't identify her. I'll report back on the food later.

[DonRocks]

What was really cool, though, is that President Obama was there with a large group.

For the love of God, please, please, *please* tell me he didn't get into a political argument when he was there. Please?

[Rieux]

Our waiter said it was the President, but maybe it was just Michelle.

[DonRocks]

Our waiter said it was the President, but maybe it was just Michelle.

But the President definitely *definitely* didn't get into an argument, right? Please say he didn't.

[Rieux]

Where is this thing about an argument coming from?  No one mentioned an argument.

[The Doctor]

Eater DC has reported a confirmation from Aaron Silverman that Michelle was there last night.

Edit: Washington Post now reporting, too.

[DonRocks]

Where is this thing about an argument coming from?  No one mentioned an argument.

No, but don't you see? If there was one, it would have been Barack's Row!

I am sorry.

[Simul Parikh]

No, but don't you see? If there was one, it would have been Barack's Row!

I am sorry.

Sheesh...

[Kev29]

No, but don't you see? If there was one, it would have been Barack's Row!

In lieu of rotten tomatoes, I'm throwing strawberry pasta sauce at the stage. And I'm going to ask more questions about the line in this thread.

[darkstar965]

Wonderful dinner last night (although a little less wonderful than my first time there, mainly because I loved 95% of the menu options the first time, and only about 80% this time). What was really cool, though, is that President Obama was there with a large group....

Maybe the Cabinet? Democratic members of Congress? The WH press corps?

Man, that must have been a sight, him standing on line for 2 hours outside the restaurant...

Funny you say that. I know at least one big-deal chef in this city who was not accommodated at Rose's. But, guessing a Presidential visit must have been a rare exception. ;-)

No, but don't you see? If there was one, it would have been Barack's Row!

I am sorry.

Ouch. My left goiter hurts.

[Shaho]

Dropped by Rose's last Thursday. Put our name in around 6, got the call around 9. Ended up killing time at the Southeast Neighborhood Library, which was nice. Ironically, they had the issue of Bon Appetit with the feature on Rose's on prominent display, so we got really hungry waiting...

Once we finally got in, we were welcomed with a loaf of Japanese milk bread and whipped butter with sesame seeds. As usual, fresh out of the oven and a perfect way to combat the cold. Crisp crust, fluffy interior, slightly sweet. I thought there might have been a strong flaxseed taste in some bites, possibly baked into the bread, but maybe it was just the sesame seeds.

The GRILLED AVOCADO W/ TOMATILLO, POBLANO & COTIJA CHEESE was ridiculously good, great balance of creamy, crunchy, and chewy textures, a huge half avacado sized to share, although that didn't stop us from fighting for the last bite.

Had the PORK SAUSAGE, HABANERO & LYCHEE SALAD with the vegetarian sausage. I'm sure enough words have been devoted to this dish here, suffice to say it's awesome, get it, it's sweeter and less spicy than I imagined, and the sausage is cooked beautifully to the point of just crispyness.

Like Rioux said, the MARTELLI SPAGHETTI W/ LEMON, BUTTER & CURED DUCK EGG was disappointing. Not really much lemon or duck egg flavor, very rich, and a bit salty for our taste. More boring than bad, but didn't live up to the standards set by the first few dishes.

Our server was nice enough to send out a complimentary dish of HONEY-GLAZED CARROTS, MASCARPONE, MATZO MEAL & DILL. This was pretty good if you managed to swirl the carrots around to get a taste of everything, but there wasn't that much sauce on the plate, and the carrots by themselves were just sweetened carrots.

The family-style EGGPLANT PARM... REAL NICE, WITH A LITTLE HAND-PULLED MOZZ & "HOUSE" SALAD was way bigger than we imagined, two huge pieces good of fried breaded eggplant, a salad bigger than the the lychee salad above, two pieces of really great garlic bread. Very classic preparation perfectly executed, but we were getting stuffed at this point so ended up taking most of it home (our server mentioned it would make a great sandwich the next day, which I could definitely see).

For dessert, we had the Pear Napoleon and the Pea Cake. The Napoleon was a little dry from the combination of the puff pastry and sesame paste, but the cooked fruit inside was nice and lighter than a typical Napoleon. I wasn't as big a fan of the pea cake, it's definitely different from any dessert I've ever eaten, but it didn't completely work for me. Sour from the buttermilk, minty (not my favorite flavor), and grassy like alfalfa. Maybe I was just full, I can see how others (including the +1) would like it.

Overall, a great meal, with the highlights being the bread and the first two dishes. With two glasses of wine, including a very strange orange, got out for less than $75 a person. Probably will not be making the wait for a while, but I can't say I regret it either.

[DaRiv18]

I have to defend the spaghetti dish.  We were a table of 4, and ordered the entire menu.  The dishes leading up to the spaghetti were very assertive, especially the pork and lychee salad immediately before, so for me the creamy spaghetti was a nice relief from several busier earlier courses.  Saucing was outstanding and I thought the flavors were good.

I agree that I would perhaps not order it if we were just a two-top and were ordering half the menu, depending on the other courses chosen.  But if you look at the meal as a whole, then I feel this dish definitely was an needed space or counterpoint to some of the other more dramatic elements.

[Kev29]

Something that may only interest DR members and certain Washingtonians (or not)... Danny Meyer enjoyed dinner at Rose's (with Colorado Gov. Hickenlooper) on Friday.

Loved RosesLuxury ! Such an incredibly warm and delicious place to dine on a frigid DC night.

[DonRocks]

Something that may only interest DR members and certain Washingtonians (or not)... Danny Meyer enjoyed dinner at Rose's (with Colorado Gov. Hickenlooper and their wives) on Friday.

Danny Meyer has strong roots in the DC area, btw.

I should know; I dated his cousin.