Bistro d'Oc, 10th Street in Penn Quarter Chef Bernard Grenier near Ford's Theater
#1
Posted 17 April 2005 - 08:05 PM
This evening I walked past Hard Rock Café, and there were four tour buses outside, and a line stretching out the door and down the block. A half-block north was Bistro d’Oc, smack dab in the intersection of 10th and Construction, and there were two people in the restaurant when I walked in.
The owner/chef of Bistro d’Oc founded La Miche in Bethesda thirty-five years ago, and to prove it, he has this rocket-ship of a wine sitting on the bar that was presented to him as a gift when he opened La Miche: a 1982 Tayac (Cotes de Bourg) in what surely must be a Nebuchadnezzar (a 20-bottle bottle), or whatever the largest format is for a bottle of Bordeaux. This thing dwarfs the double-magnum sitting next to it, and must weigh at least 75 pounds.
Wines are skewed to the ordinary, with a predominance of selections from the Languedoc-Rousillon region of France which produces over a billion bottles of wine annually (for real!). Some of these wines might seem fairly priced in the mid-$30s, but they’re actually rather expensive for the quality unless you have the knowledge to navigate through the minefield of relatively obscure producers.
The bread is freshly baked, but industrial to the point of pain (pain industriel). Vegetable soup is honest and bland, celery-based, served in a tureen with a minimum of fanfare and seasoning. Bavette of Kobe beef with blue-cheese sauce and frites was ordered medium-rare, and was perfectly cooked, even though it was probably a 9th-generation grandfather thrice-removed that was from Kobe, Japan. The blue cheese sauce was simple, with La Fourme d’Ambert (a nice surprise) as the base, made with cream and shallots. The frites were so-so, not great, not bad, crispy and correct, but lacked any sort of wow coefficient.
The owner/chef’s wife is Thai, and – ha! – betcha didn’t know that Bistro d’Oc is a little-known source for interesting Thai dishes within the Penn Quarter area. A crabmeat-stuffed “cigar” is basically a spring roll, the size of a gargantuan phallus, and served with seaweed and a sweet vinaigrette dipping sauce.
Dessert was a peach clafoutis with custard, and distressingly served a la mode. A freshly made dessert, but ponderous and not a real clafoutis. It was bogged down by its own custard and the giant scoop of bad ice cream on top which intercepted any serious attempt to enjoy it. A pity, because the innards weren't all that bad.
So, Bistro d’Oc is a legitimate, fairly priced Gaulois-like selection in a soon-to-be-crowded area. May as well go sooner rather than later, because once construction is complete, the place will be more crowded. Given that there were less than a dozen customers in there this evening, while Hard Rock Café had several hundred, it deserves to be mobbed, and I hope it is.
A worthwhile, well-priced restaurant, a real attempt at cuisine and even fine dining, and I’d happily return.
Cheers,
Rocks.
#2
Posted 23 August 2005 - 01:21 PM
add to this a second menu of specials, nearly as long as the normal one, the swooning enticement of banyuls to finish a meal and the sort of cheery sentimental accordion driven gallic music that lilts away ever so lightly in the background and you have one hell of a restaurant.
oh, and the food is really good too.
-interpol
more than what i must say
sam
#3
Posted 23 August 2005 - 02:04 PM
frogprince, on Aug 23 2005, 02:21 PM, said:
add to this a second menu of specials, nearly as long as the normal one, the swooning enticement of banyuls to finish a meal and the sort of cheery sentimental accordion driven gallic music that lilts away ever so lightly in the background and you have one hell of a restaurant.
oh, and the food is really good too.
I agree. I love this place.
#4
Posted 23 August 2005 - 02:13 PM
"A thick layer of beef fat and cabernet obscures my memories of the evening. It's possible I was raped by a bull."
#5
Posted 09 September 2005 - 01:09 PM
overall a nice experience, with top notch, friendly service - no pushing bottled water here folks!
We had our impoverished federal worker hats on so three of us ordered soup and a salad and the fourth a meat and pate plate and a salad
It has been years since I've had French Onion soup and this one was good - not too hot once I broke through the cheese layer, a ncie amount of onions and bread and very very tasty
I also ordered mussels in a garlic sauce/broth - these were also good, although I could have done with a few more of them and the sauce was good enough drag a few pices of bread through
bill for 4 people just under $60 before tip, and again great, friendly, unpretentious service
What Am I Listening To?
#6
Posted 28 September 2005 - 08:35 AM
Try the mushroom saute-- meaty slices of mushrooms with chorizo, calamari, shrimp, and olives, with a couple of crawfish standing guard on top. When you're getting to the bottom of the bowl, sop up that herby buttery pan juice with a piece of crusty bread. It's a generous serving for $8.
The service at the bar was friendly and attentive. And it's right around the corner from E Street Cinemas where you could catch a French film and extend your vacation!
Bon voyage...
#8
Posted 24 January 2006 - 03:51 PM
"She knew shortbread fingers like the back of her hand and upside-down cakes back to front."
BFITL!
#9
#10
Posted 25 January 2006 - 02:21 PM
D
manager and aspiring wine guru
market street grill, hotel whitcomb
people's republic of san francisco
#11
Posted 08 March 2006 - 12:23 AM
" Chef can you tell me a little about the Puligny Montrachet JM Boillot 2006? "- me
" It's DEELish"- Chef
#12
Posted 19 June 2006 - 09:36 AM
We had a delightful meal full of authentic flavors from the Languedoc. The veal stew was a highlight: large chunks of tender veal lolling in rich, meaty sauce flavored with orange zest, olives, and anise. It reminded me of the braised short ribs recipe in Wolfert's slow Mediterranean cookbook. Another highpoint was the foie gras mousse with brioche, whose clean, rich taste and luscious texture transported us all to France. Braised lamb with fava beans and haricots verts, beautifully and simply served, was also a hit, as was the gazpacho with a garnish of crab meat and brunoise of summer vegetables. A moderately priced Minervois went well with everything. All in all this was very good, honest cooking, full of authentic flavor, served with friendliness and attention in a warm and welcoming setting. It's gratifying that such a restaurant can exist in the middle of all the construction and development that has gripped this part of town recently. I look forward to many repeat visits.
Banco: That's not Jello. It's aspic.
#13
Posted 26 June 2006 - 06:59 PM
If for nothing else, you have to love BdO for the wild, unabashed gutsiness of dishing calf brains that one simply can't find anymore, what with mad cow and all that silliness. So the brains were there and packing quite a hefty portion, or else that calf would have been a national SAT competition finalist. Cooked perfectly to let you sink your teeth into supple, elastic flesh generously sauced in lemon and capers. Very satisfying, I can easily make a meal of that dish with a glass of wine at the bar.
The rest of the meal was serviceable but did not match the pure, gluttonous pleasure of polishing the plate of brains clean with a piece of (too) crunchy, crumbling baguette. The duck pate was a bit bland, the duck confit almost too homey, and the steak just good.
But do give them a try next time you don't want to fight the crowds in Zaytinya. At BdO, the ambience is warm and inviting, the staff genuinely try to make you feel at home, the food is comforting and occasionally delightful, and the list of specials almost as long as the regular menu. They deserve to be more popular.
#14
Posted 27 June 2006 - 09:09 AM
But they do seem to have a way with "specialty" preparations. Saying their brains were the best I've ever tasted loses force once I admit I'd never eaten brains before and that a home-cooking experiment afterwards ended badly. But they also serve up quite a crepinette which appears, in the general case , to be ground and spiced meat wrapped in caul fat (which the "crepinette") but which is in this specific case is largely composed of toothsome pig's feet. It's pretty freaking irresistable.
d'Oc, with its amiable bartenders and French club-house feel is also the launching pad of choice for attendance at any E-Street Cinema feature involving subtitles and Gerard Depardieu, Daniel Auteuil, or Audry Tatou. (Though Harry's, in the Hotel Harrington, with its monstrous martinis at miniscule prices serves well for other features).
#15
Posted 16 July 2006 - 06:30 PM
Yesterday we had an early dinner at Bistro d'Oc, after attending a matinee at the Shakespeare Theatre and paying a brief visit to the recently re-opened American Art Museum/National Portrait Gallery.
Madame: mesclun lettuces w/ a subtle mustard dressing, followed by the roasted chicken w/ black truffle sauce and truffled potatoes. I'm afraid that my own roasted chicken will henceforth suffer in comparison, and deservedly so. The chicken was moist, its skin golden brown, and the sauce deeply flavorful.
Moi: salad of fresh anchovies, which had a nice balance of fishy and, from the marinade, citrus flavors, with roasted peppers and mesclun lettuces. I could eat this nearly every summer day. Main was a special of braised beef short ribs in an intense red wine/stock reduction, with portobello 'shrooms, savoy cabbage, and a potato "cake" enriched with cream and sweet with onions. Every flavor note was perfect pitch.
Service was friendly and attentive (endearing, really), without being intrusive. I don't know anything about Languedoc wines (OK, I don't know much about wine at all. Of Chianti, northern California/Oregon/Washington Pinots, Bourgogne Rouge, and Cote du Rhone, I know a little, but outside those regions I'm lost). So I asked for a recommendation from the list of Languedoc reds and was rewarded with a very nice bottle from Minervois, for $36, which provided a satisfying complement to our mains.
Damage was $120, with coffee for madame and cognac for me.
Tourist, overheard at the host station: "We ate here our first night and we're back on our last night because this is the best place we've been."
The interior is dumpy but, as noted above, if good food and service are what you're after, then skip the lines at the fashionable boites in the quartier du Penn, and please visit d'Oc -- they need and deserve your patronage.
#16
Posted 22 July 2006 - 04:04 PM
#17
Posted 31 March 2007 - 06:16 AM
We played hooky from the housing market on Tuesday, and took the opportunity to stroll around the Mall and up to the Bistro for lunch. A delightful experience with only a few disappointments. Let's get those out of the way so I can rave about the rest.
As I've seen in this forum already, the bread was really disappointing. It was fresh, with a crispy crust, but a Wonder-bread consistency inside. Where's that toothsome, chewy texture I've come to expect from real French breads? A mixture of breads would have been nice, too, instead of just slices of white baguettes.
The wine list I was offered was a little anemic, although this might have been just a communication problem with our waitress. A little folding placquard was given me, with the complete red wine list being comprised of "syrah" and "merlot". Just syrah and merlot. No labels, no countries. The syrah was perfectly serviceable as a luncheon wine, but I have no idea what I was drinking. I will be really disappointed if that is all they offer by the glass at lunchtime.
The food, on the other hand, was extraordinary. I started with the pate, which was generously crusted with pepper and served with almost enough croutons to get through, and my wife had the house tossed salad. For lunch madame enjoyed the veal blanquette with a lemony cream sauce, one of the specials from the seemingly endless list of specials. The veal was tender and flavorful, and the sauce was perfect. I had the crispy duck confit, served over potatoes pan roasted in duck fat with mushrooms and garlic. Heavenly.
We were too stuffed to try dessert, but there's always next time.
And there will be a next time. I noticed on their dinner menu that they offer a cassoulet. Has anyone out there tried that?
Derek
#18
Posted 26 October 2007 - 06:53 PM
#19
Posted 26 October 2007 - 08:29 PM
#20
Posted 23 January 2008 - 03:52 PM
I am currently on a burger quest, but the next time I return it will definitely be for some brains.
W.C. Fields
#21
Posted 15 June 2009 - 04:34 PM
Especially given its location, Bistro d'Oc is a restaurant I keep wanting to love, but can only bring myself to like, barely.
Cheers,
Rocks.
#22
Posted 15 June 2009 - 05:02 PM
DonRocks, on Jun 15 2009, 05:34 PM, said:
Especially given its location, Bistro d'Oc is a restaurant I keep wanting to love, but can only bring myself to like, barely.
Cheers,
Rocks.
#23
Posted 18 June 2009 - 07:48 AM
I imagine with the Zagat sticker in the window and the semi-rustic looking decor, it probably draws in the more discriminating tourists walking down 10th Street, or people who don't know Central is right around the corner.


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