Bread

[Pool Boy]

If I could make only one recommendation, it would be to implore Todd Gray to source better bread - it has been consistently bad here for a long time, and a restaurant of this caliber merits having good bread. I wish I could say this is a nitpick, but it's actually a fairly big deal to me.

Sourcing good bread is easy considering Bonaparte's serves the greater DC/Balto area....

[DonRocks]

Sourcing good bread is easy considering Bonaparte's serves the greater DC/Balto area....

Perhaps, but I can count the number of American/European restaurants in the DC area serving good bread on two hands. Washington, DC will never be taken seriously as a world-class restaurant town until they have better bread available. Or maybe the national press is so clueless that they overlook these "minor" details, who knows. Geez, this isn't cumin-scented rutabaga popsicles we're talking about; it's BREAD, one of the major staples, and this town does it very, very badly.

Truly, the thing that gives me the most optimism recently is the introduction of more interesting food carts. The celebrity chefs are fine and dandy, but the food carts are more important.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[hmmboy]

Perhaps, but I can count the number of American/European restaurants in the DC area serving good bread on two hands. Washington, DC will never be taken seriously as a world-class restaurant town until they have better bread available. Or maybe the national press is so clueless that they overlook these "minor" details, who knows. Geez, this isn't cumin-scented rutabaga popsicles we're talking about; it's BREAD, one of the major staples, and this town does it very, very badly.

Truly, the thing that gives me the most optimism recently is the introduction of more interesting food carts. The celebrity chefs are fine and dandy, but the food carts are more important.

Cheers,

Rocks.

Agreed - not sure why that is. I am looking forward to seeing what Mark Furstenburg does when his covenant not to compete runs out

[DonRocks]

Agreed - not sure why that is. I am looking forward to seeing what Mark Furstenburg does when his covenant not to compete runs out

I think bread will prove to be a "trailing indicator" of the ever-improving culinary scene sprouting up (and coming into) this town. Likewise bagels, deli, ice cream ... cheeses are already arriving on the scene. The biggest problem right now is one that won't go away: the height restrictions on buildings based on the Capitol Dome. This by definition limits the population density downtown, and means that a baker can't have 80-stories of tenants living right above the bakery, which in turn means that customers need to commute to get there, but since there's a paucity of parking, they won't do it, and so it turns. That's why these street carts are so significant - they're able to avoid the sky-high rents downtown and provide interesting cuisine to people working in that bank - the bank that used to be a bakery.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[chickenlover]

I think bread will prove to be a "trailing indicator" of the ever-improving culinary scene sprouting up (and coming into) this town. Likewise bagels, deli, ice cream ... cheeses are already arriving on the scene. The biggest problem right now is one that won't go away: the height restrictions on buildings based on the Capitol Dome. This by definition limits the population density downtown, and means that a baker can't have 80-stories of tenants living right above the bakery, which in turn means that customers need to commute to get there, but since there's a paucity of parking, they won't do it, and so it turns. That's why these street carts are so significant - they're able to avoid the sky-high rents downtown and provide interesting cuisine to people working in that bank - the bank that used to be a bakery.

Cheers,

Rocks.

Are population density, downtown rents and parking the only things keeping the DC area from having good bakeries? I can definitely see this downtown, but if this were true wouldn't we have good bakeries (and delis, etc) in the suburbs? I am not the best judge since I live in the district, but it seems like we're lacking such things in the suburbs as well.

[MBK]

I think bread will prove to be a "trailing indicator" of the ever-improving culinary scene sprouting up (and coming into) this town. Likewise bagels, deli, ice cream ... cheeses are already arriving on the scene. The biggest problem right now is one that won't go away: the height restrictions on buildings based on the Capitol Dome. This by definition limits the population density downtown, and means that a baker can't have 80-stories of tenants living right above the bakery, which in turn means that customers need to commute to get there, but since there's a paucity of parking, they won't do it, and so it turns. That's why these street carts are so significant - they're able to avoid the sky-high rents downtown and provide interesting cuisine to people working in that bank - the bank that used to be a bakery.

Cheers,

Rocks.

interesting argument you make re. the height restrictions on buildings in DC being "the biggest problem" or factor in us not having good bakeries. i don't know enough about city planning, but i'd argue that's not necessarily true. building height hasn't impacted the ability of small bakeries to flourish in other cities. paris has few buildings taller than 7 stories, and yet the hausmannian model of first floor business, top floors residential seems to work. and the city is teeming with great small bakeries, butchers, flower markets, etc.

of course, the boulangerie is emblematic of french culture, and everyone here supports them (not to mention that i have no idea of the economic or political support that independent boulangeries may get here).

[Cmmp]

which restaurants have the finest bread?

my list -

Restaurant Eve (downright amazing - can make a meal of the bread and butter, alone)

Dino - the bread seems better and more interesting lately. Where are they getting it?

Central

Acadiana's biscuits

Bistro Bis

Cityzen's Parker House rolls

Haven't tried in awhile, but the choice at 701 was always impressive, particularly the cornbread.

The first few times I went to PS7 the breads were great, but the last time they were a wee bit disappointing.

I suppose things have changed at 2941 now that Krinn and his father are gone

Needs work

Olives

Jaleo (is it impossible to have a decent crust by the time it is served?)

[synaesthesia]

I really enjoyed the breads we had at the wagyu tasting at Vidalia. I also think the bread is decent at Beck and Le Chat Noir (about their only redeeming quality). But what some might consider good bread, may be different from others. Most people raised on Wonder bread go for the white insides and ignore the crust anyway. So I think accordingly, most people underbake their breads. I would say even the "best" in this town underbake their breads at least by classical European standards. My friend is a bread baker, and he says that there are a number of factors involved in making good bread - quality of the flour, time spent proofing, and some other things I can't remember. Basically things that involve extra time and money. And when you're giving the bread out for free, it may not be worthwhile.

[Heather]

I find Acadiana's biscuits too greasy. Vidalia's onion bread and brioche are great, the cornbread less so.

[Poivrot Farci]

Depends on whether you know the difference between a “good bread”, “good movie” or “good lay” from a better one and how often you get it...or do you only eat bread at restaurants and eschew religious bread iconography?

“Good bread” has less to do with city planning than it has to do with technical evolution, worker's hours, consumer thrift, sourdough starter, few domestic bread authorities such as Master Bakers Kayser, Saibron, Calvel, the late Poilâne; and a great majority of what many consider to be “good bread” is, well, not. More importantly, there has been a world-wide decline in bread consumption in industrialized countries. In France where bread has been a crucial national staple and iconic symbol, it's consumption has been steadily declining since WWII.

The noblest of all breads is sourdough -each day's batch depending entirely on the quality and health of the day's prior- and the late 20th Century renaissance of artisanal “good” bread in France fabricated through traditional sourdough fermentation is novel and inspiring but has done little to turn the tide of marginal bread. Bread connoisseurs loathe the direct method loaves that lack the characteristic properties of the ideal sourdough fermentation crumb, crust, aroma, natural acidity, “song” of the crust upon exiting the oven and other criteria for bread evaluation which is commonly associated with “organoleptic” verdicts of sommeliers. Rustic 18th century breads relied exclusively on natural fermentation from largely unadulterated organic grains that yielded nutritious, dark cereal breads to supplement otherwise barren lowerclass pantries, but because these breads were commonly associated with peasant sustenance, they would become the bane of affluent palates. Cue the white bread.

Introduced in the middle of the 20th century, white bread is the culprit responsible for the overall decline of “good bread” and its inferior crust and crumb is what the masses consider to be the norm. White bread's science of direct industrial yeast fermentation, refrigeration, adulterated cheap flours and additives (eg: fava flour) have compromised the nutritional value, quality and taste of the naturally leavened breads of yesteryear. Contributing to declining bread consumption and reverence have been nutritional reports by medical professionals suggesting links between bread intake and health complications ranging from weight gain to tuberculosis and even cancer. Though often cursed by tradition bakers, industrial yeasts, mechanization and refrigeration at the very least have reduced bakers' legendarily draconian hours spent in their epicurean dungeons and have made bread cheaper.

In a carb-counting country where bread has hardly been considered an important daily staple and few care enough to make or appreciate “good bread” it is unlikely that considerable attention will be paid to its fabrication, much less if it is indeed offered at no charge to ungrateful grazing guests who look down to bread as sustenance rather than a fundamental element of the human diet. However delectable biscuits, brioche, and cornbread may be, they are in a different orbit of traditional, naturally leavened “good bread”. Oh yes, and there are so many variables in ingredients, humidity, time and temperature that making bread consistently well is very difficult.

[Areed24]

You have really been studying your bread making abilities poivrot, I am so proud of you!

[wysguymd]

Filomena's has consistently good bread!

[beezy]

I don't think that bread is entirely about craft - it's about comfort and emotion. I appreciate a finely crafted sourdough on an artistic level, knowing the judgment and knowledge that went into developing the recipe and starter. But it just seems like it's showing off a bit much. Forgive me, but it doesn't seem American to be as obsessed with all that stuff. (Yes, it is very French, and somehow appropriate there, like eating continental style, owning small dogs or elaborate smoking, all of which seem ridiculous and affected on everyone else.)

I appreciate the lengthy post on the extreme skill and craft to produce truly fine bread. There are people out there who can produce the perfect crispy chewy crust and melty insides that will make even the most extreme Atkins adherent snorf down the entire breadbasket. But, I think restaurants try too hard, and forget that temperature, smell, and freshness are what makes the emotional stirrings of the bread appetite come to life.

As well constructed as some of the fine dining establishment's bread baskets as, they tend to be cold, often dry and sometimes a tad stale. It's like chair at Design Within Reach - very lovely for my eyes, finely designed for my sensibilities, and incredibly unpleasant to sit on for my fanny. The love and care that go into the craft of making are not sustainable at a restaurant, who needs to take timing, stability and price into the mix.

Bread's bread, kids - getting overwrought over the whole thing ruins the party. Pastry chefs all over town: please do not make me a scone when you are trying to serve me a plain ol' biscuit. No butter - only Crisco. No cream. And stop using so much baking soda - it may be fluffy, but it puts my teeth on edge. Serve it hot - they're not worth a tinker's damn unless they are freshly baked, buttered and consumed within 15 minutes of leaving the oven.

Call my gramma on the phone, and she'll tell you the secret: Pioneer biscuit mix, don't handle it too much, and preheat the shortening in the pan in a hot oven. Use buttermilk. Mix with a fork. Southern Biscuit Mix at Harris Teeter is also a fine substitute. Stop being so fussy - it just makes the dough tough.

I have yet to eat a decent piece of cornbread for the same reasons. For those who are lazy, Jiffy mixes remain a reliable (but not quite adequate) substitute. Perhaps the only good thing about the dreaded Harry's Crap Room is the little corn muffins they used to serve with brunch.

There are some decent bakers out there. Bonaparte does an ok job, but their pain batarde is always a little wet in the middle - if the pain you bought in the AM is worth eating in the PM, they didn't do it right. The Heidelberg has a wide variety of all kinds of stuff, all excessive on one front or another. Sadly, the supermarket bakeries are just that much better than Pepperidge Farm to make most people not want to make the side trip, and many independent bakeries can't keep up with the volume (RIP Brenners, source of the formerly excellent 5 Guys hamburger buns).

Me? My guilty pleasure is at the humble Luna Grill, where they bake some kind of light french bread dough constantly, bring it to you super hot, tempting naughty aroma wafting out, with plenty of butter, softening from the heat of the bread. It's not fancy, and I doubt anyone has one teensy bit of baking skills, but it is immensely satisfying, like the ratty recliner I am sitting in right this minute, thinking fondly of the inconceivably incorrect garlic bread they sell in the freezer case at the grocer's.

[Dave Pressley]

I just simply wish that restaurants that do not have (or don't care to have) the ability to send out warm, fresh bread with softened butter or a nice, fruity olive oil would just stop doing it altogether. I'd rather be denied the ability to gnaw through hard-ass bread that I've had to stack shards of refrigerated butter on. Some of the oils that are being poured as "extra virgin olive oil" with bread service I've encountered taste more like vegetable oil to me and look as pale blonde in color.

[echallstrom]

Palena may have the best bread of any restaurant in DC that I have tasted, so far. Dino also has great bread. I have not been to Restaurant Eve, but Cmmp's description is enough to get me to finally get my arse down there.

[Adam23]

Eve has really good bread. I like the biscuits I got at PS7s a few weeks ago if you count that as bread. I like the Pitas at the Perfect Pita. For a general good baguette, I think Cafe du Parc has outstanding bread (especially when it's still warm).

[Poivrot Farci]

The thing about sourdough fermentation is that when done properly it makes bread's taste-properties better. It is more technical pride than showmanship and few seem to appreciate the effort and discipline that involves making bread on a smaller, more personal scale than Pepperidge Farms' factories. I enjoy warm bread as much as every human who cries and bleeds and am not an expert on the subject nor the craft -merely passionate about its history, technique and evolution- but the comforting “fresh out of the oven” idiom does not necessarily constitute “good bread”. Bakers, bread scholars, and enthusiasts will confirm that bread is better when it has had time to rest and the crumb/crust has contracted and matured, hours some say even a day later depending on the variety. Warm bread is indeed delightful and there is probably no harm in reheating it to serve, but diners should not be duped into thinking that bread deteriorates as it cools and that freshest is bestest.

Batard, baguette, ficelle, pain, generic “French Bread”...those are different shapes with varying crust/crumb ratios representing different weights of the same “white bread” not to be confused with the chemical fluff “Wonderbread” variety of engineered loaves that have fallen under the common “white bread” connotation. While it is entirely possible to make good, easy, unassuming breads and there are restaurants/commercial bakeries capable of doing so, consumers' palates may not align with proper bread craftmanship and bakers may have to compromise or dumb down their processes to please those who regrettably see bread as just an edible distraction reflex to busy oneself with until the food gets there.

Comfort food and its implied simplicity, that's terrific. But it should come on one's own terms, not a restaurant's; and why must it be at the sacrifice of flavor or quality? I've heard that few things in life rival the comfort of sweat pants, bed pans, Jiffy's shortcut (as it's name suggests) cornbread mix and reruns of Happy Days on the oak-encased 17” Zenith, but if you can be tempted to watch Ralph Malph on 68” of high-definition flat-screen wireless-remote plasma, surely you could give some organic fire-dried stone-ground cornmeal that would even coax a thumbs up from The Fonz a chance.

Paris...the city is teeming with great small bakeries, butchers, flower markets, etc.

Not really. The romantic French model of going from butcher to baker to grocer and monger is not what it used to be 40 years ago. Centralized supermarkets' convenience have become increasingly popular and there are ever decreasing numbers of bakeries, butchers and such. Market shares of baking chains and industrial frozen bread products have made up the 10% of what artisanal bakeries have lost since the 1990's. Of the independent bakeries there, a few have joined artisanal “brotherhoods” under the Paul, Banette, Baguepi,...etc. names to produce high quality bread under strict rules of ingredient and techniques much like the AOC of other food items. They represent the small rising force in “good” if not “excellent” bread by which all other should be graded against.

[mktye]

The noblest of all breads is sourdough

:(

The thing about sourdough fermentation is that when done properly it makes bread's taste-properties better. It is more technical pride than showmanship and few seem to appreciate the effort and discipline that involves making bread on a smaller, more personal scale than Pepperidge Farms' factories.

I've simply given up on finding really good bread in restaurants. As long as it is not cottony, it is fine. Butter too cold? Etiquette be damned, I'll shave off little slivers of butter, set them atop the bread and wait the five minutes until they are soft enough to spread. Olive oil yucky? I'll just skip it and have my bread plain (with my plain water). In fact, I prefer dry and bland over badly done fancy-schmancy flavored breads, especially those that so sweet they are closer to a tea cake than a bread. If I want good bread, I certainly don't go looking for it at a restaurant.

But other than a total lack of bread service (and you don't want to get me started on that topic... again ), the thing that really drives me crazy with restaurant bread is that insipid raisin nut bread that it seems like all the restaurants in town serve with their cheese course. It looks good -- nice open crumb (although I prefer a more dense bread with cheese), nuts, raisins but then I bite into it and, ugh, it is totally devoid of flavor. Or, as rwtye is found of saying: "it is so lacking in flavor that it actually sucks flavor out of your mouth". Why, oh, why do they serve this stuff? Bread can be so wonderful. Cheese can be so wonderful. Alternating bites of the two can be wonderfully wonderful. Why?

[New Foodie]

Agreed that Eve and Acadiana both have terrific breads. I'm sure there are some other places where I've gotten good stuff that are slipping my mind at the moment, but I really loved Oya's little cheese puff bread they bring out. IIRC it's a similar presentation to Central's Gougeres. Since I've only been to Central once I can't compare them necessarily but just wanted to chime in for Oya.

[squidsdc]

mmmm....warm yeast rolls, fresh from the oven at Bob Evans

[KeithA]

Not amazing, but compared to the complaints, I'll give a shout out the the Oval Room for having a decent selection of crusty french bread and dense, chewy foccaccia slices in its basket served with spreadable butter on a recent lunch visit. Also I disagree with the comment about Jaleo, I had lunch a few days ago there and their bread in the basket was crusty and enjoyable. The bread their bocato/sandwich came on was equally crusty and favorful. The olive oil served with the basket wasn't bad either. Neither of these places have not your socks off bread baskets, but they are similar to what I encounter in about half of DC restaurants - decent and somewhat flavorful breads that show they are trying. The other half seem to have weak, tasteless bread and/or frozen butter like Palena (one of my only consistent gripes with them). Now for those seeking warm vs. room temperature bread, I agree that is much harder to find, but I personally don't care that much about temperature as long as it tastes good.

[Anonymouze]

I sure wish there were more folks from up my way in VA for those of us who don't like trying to get parking in DC... so I guess I'll be a slight representative for good bread places out this way, IMHO.

Il Fornaio in Reston VA off of Reston Pkwy by the Hyatt has great Olive bread and other breads.

www.ilfornaio.com/

ALSO

Sweetwater Tavern off of Route 7 in Sterling VA

www.greatamericanrestaurants.com/mainpage/sweetwater-chooser.htm

ALSO a non-restaurant but worth mentioning

Good Harvest Bread

www.darngoodbread.com/

[MBK]

Not really. The romantic French model of going from butcher to baker to grocer and monger is not what it used to be 40 years ago. Centralized supermarkets' convenience have become increasingly popular and there are ever decreasing numbers of bakeries, butchers and such. Market shares of baking chains and industrial frozen bread products have made up the 10% of what artisanal bakeries have lost since the 1990's. Of the independent bakeries there, a few have joined artisanal “brotherhoods” under the Paul, Banette, Baguepi,...etc. names to produce high quality bread under strict rules of ingredient and techniques much like the AOC of other food items. They represent the small rising force in “good” if not “excellent” bread by which all other should be graded against.

You may be right that the French model is not what it used to be 40 years ago; I wouldn't pretend to know what Paris was like before I was born. I will say, having lived there for the better part of last year, that the small baker, butcher, etc. remains alive and well. Monoprix, Paul, etc. may have a role in Parisian life of the 21st century, but they have far from replaced the corner patisseries and boulangeries.

[Poivrot Farci]

You may be right that the French model is not what it used to be 40 years ago; I wouldn't pretend to know what Paris was like before I was born. I will say, having lived there for the better part of last year, that the small baker, butcher, etc. remains alive and well. Monoprix, Paul, etc. may have a role in Parisian life of the 21st century, but they have far from replaced the corner patisseries and boulangeries.

Living there on and off for 20 years gives this proudest France-cheerleader more points of reference, though industry statistics trump casual observations and suppositions. The decline in bakeries is not yet alarming but 500 close yearly and bread consumption is nearly 1/9th of what it was a century ago, Germans eating the most of the continent. Between 1968 and 1975, 6786 artisanal boulangeries closed. Butchers have fared far worse. Meat ingestion there remains constant: 90kg/per person in 1980 vs 88kg/pp in 2006 (the only major difference being they now eat more chickens than cows) but artisan butchers are half of what they were 10 years ago. The industrialized country's evolutionary consumption trend favors Americanized flavors of convenience and processed foods, notably frozen bread. Some call it evolution. Nonetheless, support your local vestigial artisan's better bread and ox-tails.

Les numbers:

Bakeries

1965 : 48400

1997 : 34000

(INBP) Institut National de la Boulangerie Pâtisserie

Artisanal Butchers

1994: 16,690

2006: 7,559

(CFBCT) Confederation Francaise de la Boucherie, Charcuterie et Traiteurs

Ready made/take out Traiteurs

1994: 936

2006: 2.347

(CFBCT)

Fin.

[Pool Boy]

Clearly with the current Bread Furst Dinners happening, it must be included in this list.

[DaveO]

I noticed Dino's bread was given accolades back in 2008, 2009 above.  I've been there recently.  The bread is superb.  Couldn't finish the main dish.  It was boxed and I brought home leftovers.  I could kick myself for not bringing home the bread.  I could live off that bread.