StephenB

I have been to both. I have also been to various rodiçios in Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Florianópolis and Miami. The best one, with the tastiest beef, and the most astonishing salad array, was A Jardineira in SP. I took John Dvorak (PC Mag) there and he practically keeled over when he saw pickled turnips. "I've been looking for these for so many years," he cried. I can't remember the name of the place I went to in Miami, but it was just a notch below the best of Brazil. (Many of these U.S. places, of course, are owned by Brazilians.) In my view, the best we have around here is Fogo de Chão. The meat is good (though the cuts are sometimes surprising), the service is excellent, but the salad bar ain't a patch on what I've seen south of the border. Is it worth the difference with Greenfield? That's an individual choice. I think probably so. At least it's worth a try.

Scott, regarding Thursday lunch, how about 12:30 at Joe's Noodle House?

Yes, this piece is very well written and as one who has family in Jackson Heights, I can attest that it's accurate. But how does the author feel about kugels? The attached slide show is also worth visiting.

Sam's Argentine Bakery on Wisc.

I plan to attend -- with my friend Peter.

Rampant, inappropriate commercialism!

Foodie, I've been to 4 of your 6 (not Asia N. or Oya), and I think the one that takes RW most seriously is T del A. I think the best word for that restaurant is "professional." I would also call Fogo de Chão to your attention -- an unbelievably tasty and sumptuous meal. Don't forget the sangría!

Back to RTC tonight with a Jesuit, a moofie cricket and a Balt Sun reporter. The priest was ecstatic over the crab bisque, the layers of flavor, the subtle but unknown ingredients, ya ya ya. The cricket had the filet, I had the chicken and the other two hangar steaks. Michael came by and explained that the hangar is so called because it hangs over the cow's diaphragm. No complaints about anything, including the 4-cheese macaroni side. Although our reservation was for 6 p.m., when it was time for dessert they were already out of key lime pie. The priest and I had the dark spicy pumpkin pie instead. The cricket and the reporter had root beer floats. It was a first time experience for everybody except me. They were extremely impressed with the mise en scene, the tables, the spacing, the lighting, the windws, the heavy steak knives, the stemware, and all (including me) vowed to return soon.

The best way to shell the hard-boiled eggs is: After they've cooked, put them in cool water. Tap the large end against the sink, deflating the air pocket. Then squeeze the whole thing gently, making a hundred cracks. Peel the shell off. It's a cinch. Some people advocate adding a spoonfull of vinegar to the cool water. I have not found that made any difference. For my deviled egg recipe, check the Spring Picnic guide.

Me for Spices.

I have come somewhat late to this dialogue. I went to the Buck's Hunting and Whatever place on Connecticut and Nebraska recently. Is that the one we're talking about? I am not a professional restaurant reviewer, but in my amateurish way, I hated it. It was dark, crowded, noisy and the menu was quirky and laughably short. I ordered iced tea, but there was sugar in it. The waitress said it was "lightly sweetened." I said "No, thank you." I then ordered the deviled eggs and a margarita. That was two, count 'em, eggs, not interestingly prepared, and a drink. The waitress balked at giving the three of us separate checks, perhaps because it was too dark for her to see. But we figured out that my bill was in excess of $20. The fact that Siestema gave this restaurant the same rating he gave Ray's the Classics does not correspond to my experience, not by a long shot.

Every challenge is an opportunity. I will be happy to bring a bunch.

Here are my favorites: APPETIZERS * means spicy A28 SALTY & CRISPY SQUID A47 * SZECHUAN STYLE RABBIT A50 * PORK KIDNEY WITH MINCED GARLIC A56 * CHOPPED LEEK STEM WITH PORK GARLIC & BLACK BEAN A01 * SHREDDED RADISH WITH HOT SAUCE A14 SEASONED SEAWEED A16 * SHREDDED PORK TRIPE WITH HOT SAUCE A41 FRIED BABY SMELTS & PEANUTS MAIN COURSES F22 * YU-SHIANG PORK HOME STYLE T20 * TRIPLE PEPPER CHICKEN DRY SAUTÉE F29 * SHREDDED CHICKEN WITH PICKLED CABBAGE H20 * FISH FILET OVER VEGETABLE SZECHUAN STYLE H05 STEAMED FISH WITH SHREDDED SCALLION & GINGER F02 BEEF WITH OYSTER SAUCE F09 * SHREDDED PORK WITH HOT PEPPER F26 TENDER SHRIMP SAUTÉED WITH EDAMAME BEANS E19 SMOKED DUCK N11 * PASTA WITH HOT MEAT SAUCE

As an unexpected consequence of my weeklong seafood orgy, I lost 4.8 pounds.

How is your French?

Your spelling is correct. Simone, a Brazilian senhorita, kindly and generously puts up with my Portuguese, for which I am deeply grateful. Another count in favor of RTS.

The one we had did NOT have oysters. But there were a ton of tasteless mussels. And as for crabs, they were crab legs, not the same. I intend to have the Orca as soon as I can figure out how to park near Ebbitts. As for distant cities, you're right, of course, but those restaurants are my only points of comparison with that particular dish. I notice there's quite a lively discussion going on now about places in Atlanta. Make them stop, Jacques!

Wretched excess? Moi? Well, yes. I've been there several times. At $42, it is the best bargain in Washington. The oysters are particularly good. And I have to put in a kudo for the fellow who runs the incongruous roast beef station. He gave me a chunk that was almost 3-inches thick. It was quite rare, just as I like it. I only regret that I have but one stomach to give for this delightful Friday night event. Incidentally, my reference to Yom Kippur was misleading. The fasting part is Monday, not Saturday.

On Tuesday, September 19, I went to Oceanaire with some rockwellians and two of us (escoffier and I) shared the so-called "Grand Shellfish Platter." It was OK, but I felt it lacked variety, as there were only 3 or 4 ingredients to it. It's simply not as complex as those I've had at Balthazar in New York or La Coupole in Paris or Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal. I brooded about this for a few days and the following week I decided to manufacture my own variety. Thus: On Monday 25 Sept, I went to Tower Oaks Lodge (Clyde's) and had their lobster special, preceded by a half dozen little necks. The lobsters were fair sized (about 1 lb.), though not huge, and I took one of them home. Tuesday, lobster for breakfast. These beasts are sweet and flavorful and Tower Oaks expertly cracks them so the meat is accessible. I am an avid and industrious lobster eater and I think I got everything. Tuesday night, salmon croquettes and spicy hard shelled crabs at a friend's house, accompanied by corn on the cob and then ice cream-topped brownies. Wednesday, crab meat and rice, Thai style (spicy), for lunch at Jasmine Garden. (This place has gone downhill recently.) Dinner at home was clam chowder and a thick sandwich of smoked salmon, cream cheese, onion, capers and lemon juice on hefty slices of corn rye boule. Then a small slice of apple pie. Thursday, a dozen large, juicy, briny top neck clams at Sea Catch along with cod soup — does anybody else in town offer top necks? Baxter's luxo fish chowder and tuna fish salad with minced onion, mayo and olives for dinner, followed by blueberry pie with blueberry ice cream. Friday, a couple of hard-boiled eggs (huh?) for breakfast. I fasted the rest of the day to gird myself for the week's coda at the Mayflower Seafood Buffet. There, escoffier, grover, cucas87, scottjohnston and I helped ourselves to shrimp, oysters, smoked salmon, smoked trout, paella, gnocchi, asparagus, crab cakes, sea bass, seared tuna, anchovies, salsa, seaweed salad, clam chowder, and (!?) roast beef. For dessert, there were éclairs, napoleons, crème brulée, bread pudding, strawberries doused in chocolate, chocolate truffles, cream puffs and assorted fruits. The others at my table had mixed drinks. I had the $12 bottomless bottle of Mumms, though in the end I think I had only 3 or 4 glasses. On the sixth day, I rested. I am a walking plateau de fruits de mer. Glub. Glub.

John, this is the first restaurant that doesn't want customers since, well, since Ray's the Steaks. Has the new place been reviewed? Do the Atlanta papers know about the soap opera that went on here?

Crescent City Clown: this was a wonderful contribution, seriously funny and closely hinged to reality. Thank you.

I'm going to have the lobster special on Monday at Tower Oaks. Although it's inexpensive, I can't imagine that Clyde's would do it on the cheap. If I'm wrong, I'll let you know.

My first choice is Joe's but I'm game for tofu. Sept 26 is ok.

What has that got to do with it? Can't you do both? You'll never beat me, Scottie, until you learn how to spell my name.

Ray's the Classics is functioning on all cylinders now. We ordered from all corners of the menu (except the steak -- we know another place where we can get that) and everyone was thrilled with the tastiness and, if I may say so, the juiciness of the offerings. And since we ate "family style," I am prepared to answer questions about everything. My pièce de résistance, the scallops, were plump and bursting with flavor. I have never had better. And Michael solved the dessert conundrum by sending over one of everything. An extraordinary evening, a meal to savor. The quality of the place, and the seriousness of the investment, are manifest even before the food arrives, in the stemware and the cutlery. We enquired if Michael Hartzer were in the kitchen. And Landum said, "If we're open, he's there."