RWBooneJr

Well, if a place sucks, I can always not go. Fortunately, YOU try just about every place first and write about it, so I don't end up wasting MY money! We're still a town living self-consciously in the shadow of New York in certain ways. How else would you explain the fawning over a hamburger joint when we have dozens? But we've beaten back most of the chaf with a stick. And the bad imports that have suceeded are no worse than the bad homegrown restaurants that succeed. The truly worthy, homespun places seem to be doing well. To use your examples, Palena recently expanded and Ray's the Steaks has spawned three siblings. Granted, a few of the great, esoteric places we all loved have gone, but that always happens. And many local places have even spawned mini-empires (for example: Jaleo/Zaytinya/Oyamel/Minibar, Eve/Eamonn/Majestic/Virtue, DC Coast/Acadiana/Pasionfish, Evening Star/Tallula/Birch&Barley/Rustico, Proof/Estadio, Bombay Club/701/Oval Room/Ardeo+Bardeo/Rasika/Bibiana, etc.). As for the clunkers from NY and elsewhere, without them, there'd be no Source or Adour. I'd take all the bad to have either. As for Eataly, I haven't been to the one in NY so I can't judge it. But it's certainly not going to crowd the market. From what I gather, there isn't anything like it in DC proper or even outside it. How could it hurt?

I personally think the invasion of chefs from NY and elsewhere is a great thing. Regardless of whether Eataly lives up to the hype, I'm certainly not going to complain about having more options. A rising tide lifts all boats, right?

I was at a bachelor party this past weekend and the theme was bring your own meat and Bourbon. It was fun in both respects, but in hindsight the 2.08 pound bone-in ribeye that Whole foods sold me was a bit much (though the best steak I've had in recent memory). The Bourbon aspect was the most interesting part of the evening. I brought Jefferson Reserve and everyone else brought an equally obscure and expensive Bourbon. We drank them straight and compared. The unanimous winner was Corner Creek, which nobody had ever heard of, and one of us picked randomly ([presumably because they put it in a Chardonnay bottle). Anybody had it?

If they're taking the Metro, there's a Devon & Blakely at the Foggy Bottom station. I've never done anything but walk past the place, so I have no idea if it's any good. But it's definitely convenient, and it looks like she can order online for pick up.

One of the best fine-dining values I've had in this town is, believe it or not, at Sushi Taro. Their kaiseki menu is the marquee draw, and it's expensive, but it's not the reason to go and it's not the thing to order. If you are a fiend for good sushi -- the stuff that's flown in from Japan and justifiably expensive -- get the Omakase Sushi, which appears like a throw-away on the main menu (and does not appear to be on line). It's a generous portion (at least 12 pieces) of the truly good stuff. It's not always for those that don't like the fishy fish: my portion this evening had 5 different types of mackerel (but also included fatty tuna and uni, and on a previous visit, featured tuna instead of mackerel). But it was the best single plate of sushi I've had in this town since . . . the last time I ordered the same deal. At $45 it's a steal. ETA: In addition to the 12 great pieces, I got 2 average pieces of nigiri, a shrimp and a salmon roe, and eight average pieces of small maki, a tuna roll, which were tasty, but definitely filler. So, it's 20+ pieces, but only 12 worth writing about. Regardless, I left full, and the 12 great pieces were worth the price of admission.

It's good to know you miss seeing me. I reuploaded my ridiculous piucture and am posting to see if it solved the problem. ETA: It didn't. Further ETA: Got it to work now. I needed to go to "change avitar" instead of "change picture."

Can you please put an ad banner somewhere on this site so that you actually get paid something for dealing with these headaches?

A buzz about something happening in Bethesda . . . that delivers what it promises . . . can not compute . . . too weird . . .

The original location was included in the Dining Guide in November of 1996 (as was the Cheesecake Factory).

I just don't understand why neither of the American Flatbreads survived. I never ate at the Broadlands location, but the Clarendon location had excellent pizza, a small but well thought-out beverage program, and great people. The pizza was maybe a little expensive, but unquestionably (at least to me) worth the few extra bucks. And I guess the restaurant itself was a little cold and laid out kind of weird, but it certainly wasn't a bad place to hang out. What gives? If anyone went and didn't like the place, why? And for anyone who didn't try it, was there a reason to stay away? I'm seriously curious about this.

I went to Chubby's a couple of weekends ago with a friend on our way to NY via the "back way." We both had a pork sandwich that was exactly what I like about a pork sandwich: giant ropes of tender pork with good flavor and smoke. And they were ridiculous as sandwiches: at least a pound of meat each and enough to almost make you sick. If you're hungry and on 15, you need to stop here. And I might go out of my way for pork as good as what I had. In fact, my friend, who hates everything, is talking about stopping here on our way to NY this weekend (I can't get him to drive the sensible route, but it is a free ride). Bottom line: best I've had anywhere near DC (though not that near) and the closest you'll get to a guy in your back yard with a whole pig.

I've been once, couple weeks ago, and got the "moist brisket", and it was my -- growing up on the east coast -- "aha" moment about why people would prefer beef barbeque to pork. Moist, delicious, and perfect. Then I had a pulled pork sandwich at Chubby's in Emmitsburg on my way to NY this weekend and realized that I'm still firmly in the prok camp (parts of it were dry, but most of the -- mostly still intact -- 1 pound plus shoulder sandwich were ridiculously good). But if I wanted meat for meat's sake I would hit Hill Country. It delivers on it's promises.

He is a mediawhore, much like Paris Hilton except: (1) he has, thus far, been successful at something; and (2) Don has not, as of yet, expressed a desire to sleep with him.

I'm not sure that anyone whose price points are, essentially, a middle finger to the restaurant industry is a fair comparison. But I'd much rather have a hell burger. Though, I submit that a thick burger is a different kind of food entirely.

"Impressed" would be a strong word. I'm saying that I understand why Good Stuff is popular, because Five Guys is popular. Popular does not equate to good (hence the Applebees comment), but Good Stuff is among the better places in DC within the Five Guys genre. Would his 750th restaurant be as good? Probably not. But I've never eaten at that restaurant, because it doesn't exist. If I met someone who loved Five Guys, and they were ever near Good Stuff, I'd suggest they try it. That said, again, I'm not a thin burger guy. Those kind of burgers are not why I eat burgers. I like a thick patty that is seared, rather than cooked. Central does this the best in the city. And, personally, I'd go to Hard Times (at least the Clarendon one) before Good Stuff.

I have eaten at Good Stuff twice and, though it ain't my kind of burger, he does Five Guys better than Five Guys. And, to play devil's advocate (you TOLD us to stir up controversy), DC is a "second tier city" if NY and maybe San Francisco are your first tier. His restaurants are justifiably popular, in the exactly the way that Applebees is unjustifiably popular. He gives people what they want, which isn't much, and makes them like a little more. I actually think he elevates things around here, celebrity or not, even if only marginally. I can name dozens of burgers I'd rather have, but I'm a thick burger, not a thin burger guy. If I wanted a relatively fast burger on the Hill, I'd probably go to Good Stuff. Though, to be honest, he has bribed me personally. He has a sauce laced with Sriracha, to which I am hopelessly addicted. If he served dirt laced with glass, I'd eat it with Sriracha.

Some of these are fun to read. For example, Tom goes nuclear on Old Ebbitt and Peking Gourmet Inn. And it's unclear why, because he clearly regards their customer base to be cockroaches, upon whom the nuclear option is likely to have little effect.

And here I thought it was only their deodorant that is unsuited for its intended purpose.

I have long believed that no man should rejoice in the death of any other. I also believe that I am frequently wrong. God bless the United States and all that serve her.

Does $8 for a beer really shock anybody anymore? Seriously? I kinda thought, at this point, we were comfortable being gang-raped by every restauranteur in DC. They certainly enjoy doing it to us. I mean, the per-glass cost of a beer -- even the expensive ones -- is about a buck. If they marked up wine the same way, crap would start at about $20 a glass and we'd riot. I mean, who would stand for wine prices like that? Other than every single one of us whose ever recommended Proof, Cork, or any other wine bar. I kid, of course: the glass price of the places I mentioned is usually only the retail price of an entire retail bottle of that wine, which is vastly more reasonable. We're totally not stupid for paying that. Totally not stupid.

I went to P.J. Clarke's tonight for the first time and, for what I wanted, it was excellent. One of my favorite bartenders in DC-- ever -- John Miller, is back (formerly -- circa 2004 -- of Signitures) and working here, and he's one of the best in the business if you want a classic cocktail. They don't have a cocktail menu here, but if you want a martini or manhattan, and a hell of a conversation, he does it better than anyone I've ever known. I had a dozen oysters, which were among the best I've had in DC. They don't have the selection that others have (kumamoto and two types of virginicus tonight) but the two kinds I had (the virginicus -- Naked Cowboy and Wairua) were amazingly fresh and briney (albeit small, though I was just in Paris at a place where the oysters are huge, so I'm a bit jaded). I also later had the deviled eggs, which were in the classic style and tasted how you'd expect (great, but nothing out of the ordinary -- they are, however, served on good pickle slices). My companion had the the French onion soup, which was good but a little too sweet. Anyway, I like this place as a bar with food. It's not a dining destination, and isn't trying to be, but it's a great place for a drink. If you go, say hello to John.

On my recent and (I'm embarrassed to seem like bragging but delighted to have) annual trip to Paris, I finally decided to bite the bullet and have one truly extravagant meal. For it, I chose L'atelier del Joel Robuchon. I picked it because I passed it a few years ago on my first trip back after more than a decade and was jealous of those waiting outside for it to open for dinne;, because my dining companion is intimidated by over-the-top, blowout tasting menus (they offer a la carte); because I think of it as a sort-of culinary bellweather (it’s Robuchon’s flagship restaurant, in a way); and, mostly, because I wanted to. The place is, in a way, the “home” of, perhaps, the most famous chef in the world. And, though its namesake is nowhere to be found, those there are among the best understudies in the world. It also represents (at least to me), a measure of the state of the art with respect to "normal" food -- they don't do the kind of food that you'd see in the $600 cookbook Modernist Cuisine, but they do modern riffs on the familiar awfully, awfully, well. I can report that the experience lived up to my expectations, but also surprised me in a reassuring way. I got the 150 EUR tasting menu and my guest (um, girlfriend . . . who, if you've read any of my previous accounts, is a quasi-vegetarian with an occasional bloodlust and, I have to admit, thinks we're all weird for devoting this much time, effort, and money to food) got a single, 14 EUR dish. For my $214.60 (give or take), plus, I believe $128.43 for Champagne that I shared (NV Bruno Paillard Brut 1ere Cuvee), I got nine courses, a few of which were among the best things I've ever eaten. It all started with a rather ordinary-looking smoked salmon, cucumber, and dill amuse bouche, which looked high-end but otherwise ordinary. But it was good; damned good. Next, I think (there were lots of dishes and Champagne . . . delicious, delicious Champagne . . . so the precise order is approximate) was a few slices of raw scallops, with citrus and olive oil, topped with uni. Not unlike a lot of "crudo" I've had, but better for the addition of the very-fresh uni (what wouldn't be) and very enjoyable if you like sushi/crudo/etc. Next was the caviar, which was out-of-this-world, ridiculously good, and the reason that I got the tasting menu (it's 50 EUR, by itself, on the a la carte menu, and I was curious). I didn't actually know if I liked caviar or not; I have mixed memories of it (and not for lack of trying). Turns out, I like caviar. A lot. Or, at least, I loved this. Nicely fishy caviar on potato with other stuff nearby which was good but not THE RIDICULOUSLY GOOD CAVIAR was so I don't recall it. I should have taken notes, but I was (1) eating THE RIDICULOUS GOOD CAVIAR and (2) am, more importantly, not THAT GUY. Third was a nice slice of foie gras with a sweet sauce and rhubarb. I immediately thought that, maybe, the rhubarb was an exotic ingredient in Europe, but coming from DC my reaction was: "More fucking rhubarb? Can't people just bake this into a pie with strawberries and be done with it?" I thought this until I hit the head on the way out and saw a menu outside the bathroom from a French restaurant circa 1930 with, what read, looked like the same dish. I thought that was cool. But I also thought that maybe, just maybe, Parisians have been saying "more fucking rhubarb" for 80 years. Fourth was, perhaps, the most ridiculously good thing I’ve ever eaten. It was, essentially, described as “eggs,” though in French, so it sounded cooler. It was, in fact, cooler. It was in your typically trite martini glass and looked EXACTLY like a pina colada. Except it wasn’t. It was runny egg yolks, wrapped in egg whites, with crab and other good things. I can’t even quite describe how good it was. But if you like it when you break runny eggs and like crab, this may be your new religion. It, frankly, doesn’t look that great, or sound that great on the menu. It is, in fact, the single greatest thing I had here. Or maybe anywhere. But perhaps I’m being hyperbolic. I can’t wait to eat it again to see. Fifth was a sole dish that I remember being excellent, but ordinary. Perfectly cooked, delicious, and loveable. But overshadowed by the eggs that preceded it and lamb that followed. The lamb that followed was milk-fed baby lamb. I concealed this fact from my dining companion, who wasn’t tasting (or liking) much in the first place. It looked REALLY small, but was somewhere between butter and pork belly and was served with the most perfect, garlicky mashed potatoes ever created by man. They were as smooth as fake potatoes, but the texture of cream and actually tasted like potatoes and roasted garlic. I was originally thinking that it was a stingy portion. After I ate it, I thought that an ounce more would have spoiled it. I’m not rationalizing. It was perfect. Next came a pre-dessert of sorbet. There were three, they were excellent, and I don’t recall a single one (though I know they were tropical flavors like mango or papaya). Possibly because the next, and last, course was a tiny apple tart with caramel ice cream that was crazy, slobberingly, good. It was tiny. Though, it was like someone took the flavor of an ordinary tarte tatin and concentrated it in two or three bites. I’m not usually a dessert freak. But it was freakishly good. The one other dish we had was my girlfriend’s aubergine (did I mention that she ordered ONE DISH?). From top to bottom, it was: micro basil, sundried tomato, zucchini, Asian (skinny) eggplant, and mozzarella, with a basil puree on the plate. It was much better than you can imagine. Absolutely delicious. But not so far afield that I didn’t think I could make it. So, you might ask, how was this meal “reassuring”? Because it wasn’t that different than some meals I’ve had in DC. In fact, it reminded me of the Oval Room quite a bit. And the Oval Room, though expensive, is a lot cheaper (maybe not for 9 courses, but you can go there for Restaurant Week for chrissakes – I know, I did). Don’t get me wrong, it was an amazing and unique meal in it’s own, expensive way. But the quality of cooking isn’t terribly different than what we get here. So, if you think DC has world-class cuisine, rest assured: I agree with you. But I’d also recommend L'atelier del Joel Roubuchon if you want to blow some cash.

I went before the shake-up, and thought that it was fine but would be the last place I'd go of the places on Clarendon square. I also thought it wasn't the tenth place I'd go in the neighborhood for food or drinks (though the latter were good) and maybe not the fifteenth. I hope the shake-up means better food or atmosphere eventually. But, assuming the owners were the ones that decorated, they badly misjudged me and the neighborhood (it looks like they wanted to open a club on 14th). Regardless, I will think of this place as a non-entity unless or until they do something different.

Hunan Number One -- which is generally not a great Chinese restaurant -- has excellent hot and sour soup.

I just stopped working at 1:30, so I feel your pain. It's going to be a bit gamey, so think of it like a blue fish or sorts and treat it accordingly. Serve it with bacon (which is needed here,despite bacon's clear overuse) and sauteed greens (which, because it's poultry, means you sould avoid the stronger ones),