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In many ways, FT33 reminds me of Austin's own Barley Swine, with all the stereotypical differences associated between both cities. Owned and operated by Chef Matt McCallister, FT33 arrived in late 2012, promising a dining experience yet unseen in the DFW area. McCallister has teased such promise before, particularly as the chef de cuisine at Stephan Pyles, where he helmed a special tasting menu that incorporated the latest and trendiest techniques. After doing the "stage collection tour" at Alinea, minibar, Vetri and McGrady's, McCallister returned with full autonomy: there are tweezers, there are iSi canisters, there are entrees plated entirely along the edge of the dish with enough negative space to question their $30+ prices. Cobia crudo, carrot miso, lime, serrano, spiced peanuts ($14) -- The cobia was nice enough, and the dots of carrot miso puree and serrano would've made it successful (way too many salted peanuts though). Unfortunately, someone thought putting all these components on a one-inch wooden plank would be an improvement. The result was an Olympic-style, balance beam competition to see if you could get a competent bite onto the fork. Radishes five ways, lardo, spring onion crème fraiche, bread crumbs ($12) -- Making the radish a starring ingredient is definitely bold, but this came off as incomplete. The lardo was fine but added surprisingly little, while some of the radishes were simply cut too large, seemingly out of proportion because they needed to support the structure of the presentation. Needed another element. Beets, strawberries, puffed quinoa, sorrel, whipped buttermilk ($13) -- Really good if you're not already tired of beets. Yellow and red beets are poached in white and red wine, respectively, and the crunchy quinoa / foamed buttermilk plays nicely. Goat cheese is thankfully omitted. Ricotta dumplings, spicy duck meatballs, charred wild onion, chives, pea tendril puree and ricotta salata ($16) -- Best course of the night, and not coincidentally the simplest. In fact, the best bet on any visit to FT33 will be the pastas, which are done without the superfluous touches. Since my dated visit (sans entrees, which didn't look intriguing enough for their $32-$45 charges), FT33 has added a weekday tasting menu upon request, which seems promising in the pictures I've seen. And locals who eat at more restaurants than I do seem to really rave about the place, so I'll probably be back soon.

In many ways, you can't escape Stephan Pyles in Dallas. Even when you're not eating at his restaurants, you're invariably eating from a chef who worked at his restaurants, or buying chocolate from his former pastry chef, or watching a reality cooking competition with a pair of his former employees talking about him. Stampede 66 was Pyles' reclamation of the spotlight in a way, proving that at 60 years old, he still could lead one of the hottest openings in the city. Based on Pyles' West Texas upbringing, the dining room doesn't waste a moment reinforcing this: cowboy outfits for servers, a stunning blue sky installment overhead, and hokey signage. It's straddling campy and fun, but preferable to the cookie-cutter "recycled industrial" look that has taken over. As far as the food goes, you can get your share of tamales, tacos, or overpriced bread and pickles. The tacos make for satisfying first bites, but don't merit a visit by themselves -- Dallas already has enough tacos to go around, authentic and otherwise. I'm also not big on the kitschy reworks, like a Frito-Chili Pie ($12) that takes the drunken classic out of 7-Eleven and into a professional kitchen. Pointless, like a chef's interpretation of a Doritos Locos taco. Hidden among those typical choices are some real winners, though. Pyles is fantastic at mainstreaming offal, and Crispy pig's ears, candied apples, chorizo ($16) is the type of dish that converts those with trepidation. Slivers of pig ear were shatteringly crisp, and the accompanying salad a perfect counterpoint. Sweet, spicy and accessible -- a trio that Pyles has mastered to great effect in Dallas. Sonofabitch 2014 ($16) is more aggressive, and even better. A call back to the cattleman stews of old, Pyles' version uses veal for his rich base, the end product studded with offal treasures. Liver, tongue and heart were all cooked perfectly. I don't seek out sweetbreads, but the crispy nuggets included were exceptional. Brussels sprouts petals and red onion add just enough balance. Venison meatloaf with macaroni and cheese ($18), like most of the mains (fried chicken, brisket) was comparatively safe. Bacon-wrapped and grill-marked, the game flavor came in another easy-to-digest package. Fried Brussels sprouts for texture and a smoky puree round out the dish, aided by a decadent macaroni and cheese gratin. Not eventful, but satisfying. Judging from the weekday crowds and my own experiences, Pyles has another success with Stampede 66. One note, however: while the service is often 95 percent wonderful, hiccups may occur in the accommodation of certain guests. Pyles has accrued many loyalists over his four decades in the city, which is great for him and them, and not so much for the newbies.

I haven't made it to the above yet (Casa Rubia hopefully soon), but thanks for the impetus to post some aging reviews from the others.

Good barbecue usually doesn't exist after lunch time. Meshack's Barbecue Shack is right in Garland and a nice option -- one of the top four spots in the DFW area in my opinion. No seating though. Pecan Lodge (downtown Dallas) is still the best you can get here, although Lockhart Smokehouse (Oak Cliff) and The Slow Bone (Design District) have very good 'cue without the two hour wait. They often sell out before 3 p.m. though.

"I buy my first choice, or I buy nothing. If ten tuna are for sale, only one can be the best. I buy that one." © one of Jiro's purveyors

An apt summation of the Pecan Lodge waiting game. Wednesdays and Thursdays are a little better, but not by a large margin, and if you want your choice of everything you'll still end up committing 1.5-2 hours from start to finish. Although since I've last been they've opened an express register for large orders only; I think I'd rather go that route and get a "trough" platter, since it comes with a beef rib (which can run $30-40 by themselves). Still...you need to order the brisket and a beef rib next time. The former is as good or better than any I had in Taylor or Lockhart, and a beef rib (which they have everyday) is better even than brisket. I prefer North Carolina pulled pork so none I've ordered in Texas has been that memorable. Agreed about the pork ribs. It used to be possible to sneak in Shed 2 before 10 a.m., but new private ownership took over the market and halted that. A bit stupid to me, since the AC was a welcome respite from other barbecue lines around the state. "Ain't No Mo Butter" Cakes, right across from the Pecan Lodge stall, is a great choice for a mini bundt cake dessert before you leave though. Oh, and the owners of Pecan Lodge have said they've been looking for another space for several months now.

Not sure if you're flying to DFW or Love, but where you stay depends on your priorities. Arlington is great for location to the stadium, there's a number of average bars, but you'll be driving to them and everything else there is nondescript. Irving / Las Colinas is close enough to the stadium and even better for airport proximity (DFW), but can be a ghost town after 8 p.m. depending on where you stay. There are probably more restaurant options than Arlington (see KMango's posts), but again, you'll still need a car. That leaves downtown Dallas. You'll spend more time getting to and from the game, but you'll have the most options for entertainment. Downtown itself is sleepier than you'd imagine, but centrally located to other popular neighborhoods and with decent access to I-30 for your trip to JerryWorld. Several stand-out restaurants will be open Sunday night too, if that's part of the plan.

From my regular reading of food blogs, porcine ("the pork belly had a wonderful porcine flavor"...opposed to a fish taste?), piquant and sapor (trying too hard) are words I wouldn't mind deleting forever.

These visits are a few months old, but I figure better late than never. Barley Swine comes with plenty of recommendations -- James Beard and Food and Wine included -- but it still managed to be the surprise meal of a mid-week trip. The space itself is quite interesting; it’s more of a bar-converted-to-a-restaurant, with nothing but community tables and stools that overlook the kitchen. Maybe not romantic, but I thought it was an entertaining departure. In the middle of the bar (which acts as the pass) is Chef Bryce Gilmore, running the show with a commanding presence. Not only did he have his hands on every dish that left the kitchen, he also kept a close eye on the service, tweaking both as necessary. The menu is small plates, and described with trendily esoteric ingredient listings. Two things that would typically bother me, but in this case they work: it’s better to be surprised by the components, and the menu format is akin to crafting one’s own tasting menu. Goat, walnut, kohlrabi, fenugreek, wild rice, green garlic ($13) - Goat belly with a walnut glaze, garlic and topped with sliced kohlrabi, sitting in a rich (but aerated) sauce and flecked with crispy rice for crunch. Intensely savory without being too heavy, this was still probably better as a middle course. Pig, crispy ankle, sauerkraut, beans, hot sauce ($15) - Pork three ways: trotter croquette, a riff on headcheese and the loin. All delicious and faultlessly prepared. What really set this dish off, however, were the accompaniments; the beans, sourness and spiciness all complimented the pork well. Lamb, sunchokes, goat cheese, grapefruit, spinach, cumin ($18) - I would not have imagined all these ingredients together, which made their harmony even more enjoyable. The grapefruit was an especially deft touch. Beer for the kitchen ($1) - More and more common, I first thought this was a presumptuous menu item. But thinking about our somewhat archaic tipping system, I ended up loving the idea -- it’s a gesture for the people actually cooking your food. It makes even more sense when you have an open kitchen like Barley Swine does, as watching them work (or annoying them with dumb questions) becomes very much part of the dinner experience. A technically flawless meal, balancing textures and flavors in creative ways. I also must point out the perfect service -- as affable as a friend hosting dinner, but extremely well trained (not a blink when asked the difference between their “pulled pig face” and headcheese). Highest recommendation. ---- The time drain at Franklin Barbecue is not understated. It’s also entirely worth it. I’d recommend getting in line between 9:30 and 10 a.m.; you’ll be waiting for an hour anyway, so you might as well secure a better spot. It’s a very friendly queue, with locals and road trippers spurred to conversation by their shared insanity. Once you make it to the counter, the brisket is as picturesque as you could ever imagine, and tastes even better. Fatty is my preference, theirs being the best I’ve ever had -- a trivial reference point, but does include meals at Louie Mueller, Kreuz Market, Black’s and Smitty’s. Sausages were nearly as delicious, with great snap and a huge smoke flavor. Pork ribs tasted impressive, but were overcooked on this trip (all the meat fell off the bone at the slightest touch). Smoked turkey was likely the best iteration of the meat possible…but it was still turkey. However, it’s worth ordering as a vehicle for their delicious espresso barbecue sauce, as you can freely dip without violating Central Texas codas. Aaron Franklin was taking every order and cutting the meat himself, and couldn't be friendlier. The line would actually move faster if he adopted a Soup Nazi mentality, but the hospitality after waiting is much more appreciated. ---- Although Paul Qui has long since left the building, Uchiko remains a compelling destination. From what I understand, Qui had not been involved much with the restaurant since his season of Top Chef finished airing, replaced by Tim Dornon as chef de cuisine last summer. However, Dornon departed himself in February, following Qui to his new restaurant in a weird consultant chef role. That said, Tyson Cole seems to have cultivated a rather talented and deep roster among his Uchi outposts, and Uchiko was running like a well oiled machine when I visited. It will be interesting to see its progression from now forward, though. Anyway, the restaurant is no less popular (the Wednesday wait times and bar scene would be a great Saturday night at most places). It makes for a loud and bustling scene, which I’m not always a big fan of, but seems to work here. Trendy is balanced with approachability, as impeccable service makes the experience more neighborhood gem than national hotspot. Gyutan toro ($4) -- Several nigiri were consumed during this meal, but the only one worth mentioning was this perfect bite of beef tongue. Grilled and glazed with a fish caramel sauce, this is an amazing umami intermission for any point in the meal. Other choices were quite good (or at least interesting), but my impression is that sushi is a gateway here, not a destination. Koviche / fresh diver scallop, tomatillo, kalamata, black lime ($19) - I rarely order scallops anymore; they’re often a uniform, one-note crowd-pleaser. This raw preparation was inspired, though, with the cilantro and tomatillo appealing to me the most. Kalamata olive powder was less successful -- uneven, gummy bites resulted where too much was applied. Maguro sashimi and goat cheese ($18) - A long-tenured dish that originated at Uchi. Unique combination, but the cheese dominates the other ingredients. For whatever it’s worth, the sushi chef who prepared the order agreed (and it was removed from the final bill). Truffled congee ($19) - The title is a slight misnomer, as the shaved black truffle seemed frivolous and the koshihikari rice was cooked more like risotto than a porridge. Still, a delicious interpretation: rich, balanced (bits of cured lemon were hidden throughout), expertly cooked and my favorite dish of the night. Jar Jar duck ($30) -- Uchiko’s signature dish. The blast of rosemary smoke is fun but fleeting theater; what’s inside the jar stands by itself quite well. Duck breast, confit and cracklings were all done nicely. More of a one-timer, though, and not something I’d go back to regularly. Fried milk / chocolate mousse, tuile, milk sherbet and corn flakes ($9) -- Lots of fun in a child-like way. It’s breakfast re-imagined in an adult presentation, with the “fried milk” being a pair of faux croquettes filled with condensed milk. I’m biased against deconstructed desserts (usually dainty, inferior versions) but this was awesome. Order this even if you’re full. Sweet corn sorbet / polenta custard, caramel salt and lemon ($9) -- More savory than I expected. The polenta custard seemed heavy, but I might’ve just been really stuffed at this point. While I eagerly await the third Uchi outpost, set to open in Dallas, Cole has promised there will never be another Uchiko. Which seems all the better for Austin. --- Houndstooth Coffee is just a door down from Uchiko, and makes a very impressive espresso. Wonderful service and they take time to explain their varieties without a lecture. Several locals recommend Lick Ice Creams over Amy’s, and while not superlative, the flavors are unique and well-balanced (also right next to Barley Swine, if you need dessert). Central Market is great, although not significantly better or different than the Dallas or Plano outposts.

In-N-Out is delicious, consistent and the customer service has always been exemplary. So kudos to whoever is in charge.

Agreed. This review doesn't serve anybody, except for Mr. Wells' personal need to takedown an easy target -- while pandering to a demographic that would never eat there anyway.

Seemingly no press is bad press when it comes to Top Chef -- Mike Isabella and Spike had their share of inflammatory moments, none of which have hindered their success. Of course, they hung around longer than Mr. O’Brien could manage (literally, 15 minutes). Personally, I’ve found O’Brien’s recent media exposure to be disconcerting. From his inane rant about Neighborhood Restaurant Group stealing his idea for fried chicken and donuts (which is akin to someone ‘stealing’ the idea for a boutique cupcake shop), to his origami remark (tacky at best, regardless of editing context) and sensitivity to the comment trolls on Eater…I don’t think the spotlight has been going all too well. Seasonal Pantry has always intrigued me, however, and my only comment about his cooking is that his omelet seemed no worse than the others -- which all looked uniformly crappy. Perhaps he’s right to feel slighted that Wolfgang’s generosity did not extend to him.

Lucia From all accounts, the closing of Lola (mentioned up-thread) was a lamentable affair. To Dallas’ relief, however, Lola chef David Uygur converted the demise into opportunity -- staying within the city to create his own Italian-inspired venture, Lucia. Lucia opened in December of 2010, and a month later was proclaimed “the best new restaurant in Texas” by the New York Times (via Texas Monthly). Reservations have remained booked since then, although four bar seats are always held for walk-ins, and quite obtainable on a weeknight whim. I actually prefer these seats, as they are right on top of an appetizer section and overlook the pass. Despite such popularity, Lucia counters many preconceptions about Dallas dining. It’s comfortable and unfussy, with a homey appeal that assuages the tight space (just 36 seats, mostly spanning two banquettes). Uygur’s gregarious wife Jennifer runs the front of house and wine program, along with an attentive but not overbearing staff. The clientele is also from all walks; you may see suits, you may see jeans, and neither seem out of place. While the menu changes daily, the focus is on rustic Italian (although not limited to just that). A recent meal: House-baked bread and warm olives -- Dinner starts with this duo, the former being a delicious no-knead version and the latter served simply. Crostini with n’duja, soft scrambled eggs and chives ($11) -- Uygur’s proficiency with charcuterie is not to be missed. A wonderful board of salumi misti is always available, but this version of n’duja is a separate treat. The spreadable n’duja (a fiery-tinted mix of fatty pork and red chili) is smoky, spicy, and balanced perfectly by the eggs. Apparently the original Calabrian recipe calls for three times as much heat -- Uygur first pared it down to half its potency, but that was still too much for customers. Spaghetti with sea urchin, Aleppo, chives and toasted garlic breadcrumbs ($15) -- Of the daily pasta choices, spaghetti and gnocchi remain constants on the menu. You’d be lucky to have this version. There’s not much to expound upon, because everything was as good as it reads. Salumi caramelle with brodo Parmigiano and cavolo nero ($15) -- A new variety to me, the caramelle were small pasta wrappers filled with salumi and twist-tied at the ends. Reminiscent of Bit-O-Honey candy in appearance, while far superior in taste. Duck breast with lady cream peas, pickled cherries, foie gras butter and dragoncello ($26) -- The secondi seem to be the safety net of the menu, and sized only in proportion to a full Italian meal progression. If you skip a course, it may not be a filling entrée on its own. Regardless, the duck was cooked properly and paired reliably with cherries. My favorite part was the foie gras butter, which made an excellent sauce for the peas. Fennel pollen gelato with canary melon and candied fennel ($8) -- Desserts at small restaurants, sans a more complete pastry department, can often seem throwaway. Although Uygur does keep his dolci simple, there are twists that show a savory chef’s influence. Nothing is overly sweet or manipulated, his one chocolate dish is a bittersweet budino, and in winter he’ll put a blood-thickened pudding on the menu. This particular example was for licorice lovers only, as the applications of fennel could not be more intense. Aggressively perfect for my taste and the unending Texas heat. As mentioned, Lucia is as esteemed a restaurant as Dallas can boast, earning the highest reviews from the Dallas Morning News (although I think very little of their standards: http://eater.com/arc...m-a-blogger.php), D Magazine, and crazy people on Yelp. I would concur with such placing. It’s not a revelatory experience, but an immensely comforting one, and worth seeking out for any visitor.

Who's to decry another person's favorite restaurant? It's a completely subjective opinion, with a confluence of factors being part of it. It sounds like Toki Underground is not for you, no matter what anyone says. Which is cool -- even among "people who post about food on message boards", everyone has different tastes and preferences.

I'm not sure Rose never bet against the Reds. He has changed his story as it fits him, and only admitted to betting on the Reds when he had a book coming out. Rose also reportedly told his gambling associates that the Reds couldn't win when Mario Soto pitched, which is more than suspicious from a man who has shown little contrition since his ban. Nevertheless, I wouldn't care if Rose was elected into the Hall of Fame or not. The steroid era players should be in the Hall as well (not Brady Anderson, because he wasn't good enough even then). I'm reminded of a quote from Charlie Francis (who trained Olympic sprinter Ben Johnson): "The dividing line is not left and right, with the drug free on one side and the dirty cheats on another. It's divided horizontally, with the guys above the line on drugs and those below, perhaps being clean." The pitchers were on PEDs, the hitters were on PEDs, the fielders robbing hits were on PEDs, and MLB wanted it all to happen. No one can tell who is "clean" among them all, so let's forget that pretension and compare them among their own contemporaries. Baseball history will remember it as the steroid era anyway. Err...got sidetracked there. To spin it back to Joe H's complaint, I agree. ESPN's programming has been on a rapid decline since ABC/Disney took over and wanted to brand everything with their corporate "synergy". SportsCenter went from the best 30 minutes of clips and quips, to an hour full of manufactured shout-offs, Coors Light segments, highlight packages cued to musical acts under the Mickey Mouse umbrella, trite special features (who could forget the touching mini-doc on Matt Leinart having to wear glasses as a kid?) and general awfulness.

Pecan Lodge (Dallas Farmers Market, Shed 2) -- Either the best or second-best barbecue in the Dallas, depending on the day (alternating with Lockhart Smokehouse). I've had brisket ($7.50 / half pound) here that was merely good, but a recent edition was closer to phenomenal. Opposed to their namesake, they actually use mesquite for smoking, a divisive choice that's pronounced in the final product. It's never been acrid to me, but I realize many dislike the flavor. Regardless, the crust was pure smoked candy (the dry rub flavor still shined through), and the perfectly rendered fat running through the meat was sublime. I’m strictly a fan of their fatty brisket, and had a lesser experience when ordering lean…then again, I'm not much for lean brisket in general. The rest of the menu varies in quality. Pork ribs and homemade sausages are worth trying, and they also offer a few non-traditional items: a barbacoa-topped sweet potato and brisket tacos being two examples. Sides are inconsistent; my last order of fried okra ($2) was over-breaded, unseasoned and left in the fryer too long. That aside, the reason to eat here is the brisket. It should be noted that a recent appearance on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives has raised their profile -- gone are the inconspicuous waits, replaced by a forming line of 30 before they even open. Not exactly a Franklin Barbecue situation, but try and get there early (11:00 a.m., Thursday through Sunday). Hypnotic Donuts (Lakewood) -- If you're looking for a Gourdough's experience in Dallas, this is your place. I find these Voodoo derivatives more nauseating than hypnotic, but don't let me discourage you from getting a donut with peanut butter, bacon and sliced bananas on it. In fact, to a degree I admire their ingredient perversity. Serrano peppers, crumbled Pop Tarts, Captain Crunch…they have clearly pushed their chips all in. Fortunately, they offer simpler versions (both cake and yeast) for the traditionalists. I had a great cinnamon bun my last visit. They also do a pretty good fried chicken biscuit ($6), which dabbles in the same overzealousness as the donuts but comes plainly if asked. Cooked to order, it's like a supersized version of Chick-fil-A’s chicken biscuit…almost overwhelmingly so. Tasty though. It's a little expensive, a little over my head, but I enjoy the regular donuts and the owners are friendly. Worth support if you're local, and maybe a stop if you're a visitor who enjoys these kinds of saccharine creations. Babe's Chicken Dinner House (multiple locations) -- A family restaurant chain that is quintessentially Texan. Originally started two decades ago in Roanoke (about 20 minutes from DFW Airport), the set-up at every location is charmingly simple: Pick an entrée, gorge on the unlimited sides, eat lots of biscuits and finish with a slice of homemade pie. All for $12 (minus dessert). The majority of patrons will order fried chicken or chicken fried steak, and you should too. Each are delicious, and benefit from being so popular -- I assume that there's very little time for product to sit around or be under-prepped. I'm not to say whether either is the "best" of their kind, but that's not really the point of Babe's. As interpretations of southern food become more haute, I love the throwback atmosphere here. The friendly waitresses, incredible kitsch on the walls (I spotted a swordfish painted like a cow, which was amazing), pineapple upside down cake and generations of families eating Friday dinner together. Very classic. Good 2 Go Taco (East Dallas) -- You can't drive a half mile around Dallas without seeing a couple taquerias, but this is not one of them. Rather, it's an alternative taco shop, with scant Mexican influence (i.e., for white people). Think lamb and tzatziki tacos with whimsical names. I'm mostly here for the breakfast tacos, which are available all day and a bit more restrained than their lunch items. It's nothing earth-moving, just well-done combinations of fresh spinach, eggs, cheese, and a protein. Both the "Paris, TX" ($4), with hanger steak, and "Honey Bear" ($3.50), with honey bacon, hit all the right notes of sweet-salty-cheesy. Arriving on the larger flour tortillas, each are sizable enough as a light meal. Most importantly, everything here is (usually) cooked properly. I realize that sounds like a backhanded compliment, but for a fast-casual place serving hundreds a day, simple done right is worth commending. Hell, a lot of sit-down restaurants are struggling with that. Stackhouse Burger (East Dallas) -- I know, another necessary addition to the burger food pyramid in America. No points for the creative concept, but Stackhouse does achieve some things worth visiting for. Firstly, they take a pragmatic approach to burger ($5.95) assembly. Pickles, tomatoes and onions are all sliced to a uniform, mechanical thinness, which makes for awesome layering. Everything in every bite; none of that slip-and-slide of toppings when flair overtakes sensible eating technique. The profit margins are in the extra toppings, so I'd skip most of those (they also upset the aforementioned ratios). And if you order a double, disregard everything I typed and get a fork. Bypass the fries here. They're not bad, but the potato chips ($2.75) are that much better. Made in-house and fried until golden, these are crispy, thin, and non-greasy. A quality sour cream dip, flecked with chives and roasted garlic, comes on the side. In addition to those positives, this is just a cool place to relax. Since it was built inside an old house, it achieves this amalgamation of a neighborhood bar, quick-serve restaurant, and patio hangout. Fits a lot of moods. Meshack's Bar-B-Que Shack (Garland) -- I'd say the pilgrimage for great barbecue is part of the fun, at least until you check your gas receipts. A short trip to Garland hardly counts, but driving into the suburbs and looking for an un-GPS-marked, roadside smokehouse can be a bit exotic for city folk. Anyway, once you find it, the small building has all the earmarks of deliciousness: piles of pecan wood outside, haphazard unmarked parking to ward off the timid, and a constant billow of meat-scented smoke. Get in line at the screen window, and make sure to order the pork ribs or sliced brisket ($8.50). Both have that deep smoke flavor, and the pecan differentiates it from the many oak-based joints. If there's a dry rub being used it's scant, and there appears to be some East Texas (?) influences as well -- meats come sauced unless otherwise noted. The sauce itself is homemade and tasty, I just prefer my brisket without. Bring cash, plan on eating in your car, and come early. Paciugo Gelato (multiple locations) -- I've eaten a lot of Dolcezza, and this is definitely not Dolcezza. It’s less expensive, however, and really the only prevalent gelato option around Dallas. A decent indulgence as long as you avoid some unfortunate concoctions. The "tre vaniglie" is one such misfire -- supposedly a mix of Tahitian, Mexican and Madagascar vanilla beans, what I tasted was closer to cake batter. Other flavors (coconut, chocolate, hazelnut) fared better, so just remember to sample before committing. ---- My ability to describe coffee with nuance is limited, but I do enjoy the stuff, and have been sampling the various offerings around Dallas. Highly subjective notes to follow: Cultivar Coffee (East Dallas) -- A four-seat coffee bar inside of Good 2 Go Taco (they'll gladly combine your ticket if you want to order food) and my favorite cup in Dallas. They roast on-site every Tuesday and Wednesday, with a rotating choice of beans (most recently a Guatemalan blend). Brewed via French press, they take a lot of care with roasting and I've always had very balanced, delicious coffee here. The owners are usually the working baristas, which is a bonus if you want to pester them with inquiries. Oddfellows (Oak Cliff) -- Not a coffee house, rather a full-service restaurant with an emphasis on their coffee program. A standard cup is done with the pour-over method, using beans from Cuvée (Austin). I'm not obsessed with pour-over, but I appreciate the effort. I'm also not much for espresso, but they do have a La Marzocco Strada here -- just in case you wondered what caffeine from a $15,000 machine tastes like. Thanks to the larger space, they feature a number of cupping classes and other events if that's your thing. Mercantile Coffee House (Downtown Dallas) -- More pour-overs here, using Intelligentsia for their house offering. As good as Oddfellows to my undiscerning palate, and the standout option for those downtown. Pearl Cup (East Dallas) -- Parking here is a pain in the ass, although that's relative to what city you drive in (it's probably just standard for areas in DC). Anyway, no gold-plated kettles or clockwise pours here, just regular coffee via the automatic drip warhorse. Not as memorable as the above three places, but good on its own. They also have a kiosk downtown, which comes with a sterile lobby atmosphere but is the same otherwise. Murray Street Coffee House (Deep Ellum) -- More of a nice hangout than serious coffee house. Downstairs is cramped but the second floor is quite comfortable, reminiscent of a trendy refurbished loft. Although if it wasn't independently owned, I'm not sure the coffee would seem much different from Starbucks. Which is fine; I like Starbucks in a lot of instances.

Indeed. The Bojangles outside of North Carolina have a noticeable drop in quality, and even those near the borders run on the dicey side. As for Chick-fil-A, I happen to love it. Whoever came up with the idea of pressure cooking their chicken is a genius, because it’s a drastic improvement over the bone dry / fried versions most competitors put out (for fear of salmonella). The MSG is another deft touch, and I’ve rarely encountered less than gracious service at any location. I completely respect and understand anybody who boycotts Chick-fil-A because of political standing, but those chicken nuggets with Polynesian sauce have turned me into an amoral consumer. I’d still eat here if the Fojol Bros. were serving me and the seating areas were designated by race.

You could say the same for certain pop stars, authors of disposable fiction, summer blockbuster actors and lobbyist-loving politicians. They all have more talented counterparts that toil in anonymity, but being talented has never been a requirement for becoming a celebrity in America. Spike is just a cog in the machine. I don’t enjoy his establishments, but he’s a seemingly shrewd businessman who is capitalizing on our burger reverence (not unlike every other chef in the country). By all means critique the hell out of his food if you want (that's what this site is for), but his celebrity status is simply a reflection of our TMZ culture, not an indictment against hardworking line cooks or the state of D.C. restaurants.

I'm rooting for Fiola, but would be shocked if it wasn't awarded to Next.

Bar or table depends on the restaurant, but I usually prefer the former. There are certain places that are just more enjoyable at the bar period, whether alone or with someone else. That said, I’m not averse to dining at a table. I usually reserve a table for one when I’m in the mood for trying a special occasion restaurant, and my “special occasion” is celebrating Wednesday. I hear you on not wanting to wait for a bar seat to open up, though. My last solo meal at a table was at one of Don’s bolded restaurants. I sat next to a couple, who nitpicked throughout their dinner, had a dish or two comped, and stated that our section’s server “wasn’t that good” when signing the bill (I couldn’t help hearing; banquettes are the real communal table these days). Meanwhile, I had a rather enjoyable meal with fantastic service, and appropriately tipped the same staff who were being chided by my neighbors. The long-winded point: I don’t feel as guilty occupying a two-top when there are so many jerks eating out together. I do avoid prime dinner hours during the weekend though (of course, that goes for my meals with others as well). And while my overall check average may be lower, I can easily outspend a pair of diners who just want burgers and a shared appetizer at place like Palena Café -- even without alcohol (ironically, bartenders seem to care less if you imbibe during dinner than servers…for reasons I can guess). Unless the server sits the magazine in the opposite chair, refers to it as your dining companion, or asks if you know how to read, I see no reason why the offer would offend a normal person.

I’ve got nothing for Houston, but this reminded me to post some places I’ve eaten after a few months in Dallas. In no order of preference: Italian Cane Rosso (Deep Ellum) -- Remember Dino Santonicola from Pizzeria Da Marco? He’s here, front and center, manning the Neapolitan oven in this very busy restaurant. The "Delia" pizza seems standard enough (mozzarella, roasted grape tomatoes, arugula), but is worth ordering for one reason: bacon marmalade. Sweet, smoky, and coupled perfectly with the arugula, the only complaint would be there wasn’t more of it. Guess it’s a food cost killer. Crust-wise, it was excellent. Char, texture, chew…it’s all there. I never made it to Da Marco, but this pizza was better than 2 Amys, very comparable to Pizzeria Orso before Edan MacQuaid left, and just a shade behind Pupatella. One interesting note: They've been running a special "Industry Night" on Mondays, where a Dallas chef comes to the kitchen and invents his or her own pizza. Dean Fearing and Tre Wilcox were recent guests, while toppings have included burnt ends, beef tongue and tater tots (not all at once). It’s a fun idea, and something that’d be cool to see in one of the D.C. pizzerias. Mexican Meso Maya (North Dallas) -- You couldn’t tell by the strip mall location, but this is a stylish restaurant serving modernized Tex-Mex, with an emphasis on Mexican. Broad appeal items receive a little twist: Yes, those are brisket enchiladas, but they’re topped with roasted tomatillo sauce instead of chili con carne, and come wrapped in homemade blue corn tortillas. There’s also more “authentic” fare, like cochinita pibil and queso fundido. Simple is best here: elotes, pozole and the aforementioned tortillas arrive with more grace than the average street cart. Come with your quesadilla-loving friends and order something interesting for yourself. Fuel City Tacos (West Dallas) -- Yes, another taqueria inside a gas station. The actual “Fuel City” is more akin to those oversized rest stations, and located as such. Still, it was steadily busy during lunch despite not being a convenient detour. Most known are the picadillo tacos, filled with ground beef, (mushy) diced potatoes and “green sauce”. Good flavor, but I preferred the moist barbacoa. All the better with a Jarrito and cup of elotes. They’re open 24 hours, so mileage will vary depending on blood alcohol level and the consistency of their heating trays. Whether you think them great or not, eating here seems a rite of passage for any Dallas food lover. El Tizoncito (Oak Cliff, North Dallas) -- The Starbucks of taquerias inside -- an actual sit-down, casual restaurant with servers in uniform, tables and chairs made after Y2K, and multiple flat-screen televisions. But despite two separate locations in Dallas, it’s not a cookie-cutter franchise (yet). Everyone gets a gratis starter of black bean soup served burning hot, which is cilantro-forward and quite tasty. For tacos, I’d stick with the pastor. They actually have a trompo you can see, which most places serving pastor do not. Everything else is up to code: double corn tortillas, minutely diced onion, pineapple and cilantro. Cheap and satisfying. Mariana’s Taco Shop (Frisco) -- Smells good from the parking lot. If five tables, old paintings, a majority Mexican clientele and no air conditioning signal authenticity, this place has it. All the basic Mexican tacos are here (carnitas probably being their best), but the rest of the menu suggests transplanted Californians running the place. Hard-shell tacos are fried to order, with shredded beef or chicken -- crispy, juicy deliciousness. Burritos are also San Diego-style (no rice, most with no beans, no sauce). Taquitos arrive on the bland side, but take advantage of the salsa bar -- good pico, tomatillo salsa, and hot pickled carrots. If you’re going to a FC Dallas soccer match (and there’s no reason for a visitor to be in Frisco otherwise), make a stop here. American Lockhart Smokehouse (Oak Cliff) -- Many would say that real barbecue is not to be found in The Metroplex, and I’m not in a position to argue otherwise. My only brush with authentic barbecue was a half decade eating pork and vinegar in North Carolina (which I loved…a pig pickin’ is culinary nirvana). The brisket here, though, has changed how good I thought beef barbecue could be. Meltingly juicy, with neither fat or salt overpowering the taste. A deep smoke flavor throughout, and a candied, peppery bark. It needed nothing. Shoulder clod is the same price as brisket -- $15 a pound, although they’ll gladly slice you a quarter-pound portion -- but is explained as leaner and beefier-tasting. It’s certainly leaner, to the point of needing some sauce to waken it. Might try it again, might not. Haven’t bothered with any sides yet, although they do serve Kreuz sausages. Is it great Texas barbecue? I couldn’t say. It’s certainly great to me, and will serve in place of a four-hour trip to Hill Country for now. Pappas Bros. Steakhouse (Northwest Dallas / Love Field) -- A classic steakhouse experience, without feeling like you’ve intruded on a private CEO club. Dimly lit and romantic, yet energetic and comfortable enough for family and friends. Dry-aged steaks were cooked exactly to order. Well-trimmed, seasoned with salt and pepper, finished with butter, no complaints. Family-style sides were also memorable, including a crab macaroni and cheese that was the richest bite of the night. The only dish to be missed was the Caesar salad; a lifeless edition that might have been crafted by one of Olive Garden’s Tuscan culinary artists. I can’t speak on the quality of the wine list, but it is extensive at a glance and should have something for everyone. Our waiter helped us find a very enjoyable bottle that met our modest budget. The rest of the service was old school but not condescending; requests for Bordeaux or booster seats are met with the same attention. A small platoon of hostesses stand ready at the front -- ask where the bathroom is, and one will break from the pack to lead you there. If you’re in the mood for a steak and have the disposable income for some coddling, I can’t see this place being a disappointment. Maple and Motor (Oak Lawn) -- Reminiscent of a southwest Ray’s Hell-Burger (although not as good). Huge lunch crowds, order-before-sitting policy, and a charismatic, on-site owner who dislikes hostile customers -- note the bottomless “suggestion box” above a trash can. Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives just filmed here in December, but don’t hold that against them. Burgers are six ounces but seem thinner, with a salty crust from the flat-top. It’s a tasty, messy affair (the butter-glossed bun disintegrates before finishing) that’s much better when you ditch the lettuce, out-of-season tomato, and red onion for bacon, grilled jalapenos and a fried egg instead. Fries are frozen but McDonald’s-style perfected. You can really embrace Texas and have them covered in cheese, bacon and jalapenos, with dipping ranch on the side. Fried bologna and brisket sandwiches available for those with burger burn-out. Twisted Root Burger Company (Deep Ellum) -- The original location is here, but they’ve since franchised across Dallas and the suburbs. It’s a decent burger, with decent sides and house-made root beer. Works in a pinch. In-N-Out Burger (Multiple locations) -- Awesome. A double-double, animal-style, is likely the best fast food burger in America. Also the friendliest and most efficient service I’ve seen in its category, one-upping Chick-fil-A. This is what Five Guys and Shake Shack wish they were.

Unless it's changed significantly, the vincisgrassi has meat in it.

Favorite dishes Salmon with oxtail-carrot jus, spinach and carrots / Citronelle Lounge -- Literally a perfect dish. I had this in January, and nothing else topped it for the rest of the year. Rabbit “pizzaiola” / Palena Café -- I doubt rabbit gets any better than this bacon-wrapped leg, while the accompanying smashed potatoes and carrots were highlights on their own. Rustic greatness. Smoked salmon pizza with arugula and cherry tomatoes / Pupatella -- I ate several great pizzas at Pupatella this year (silver medal to the Burrata special), but this was their masterpiece. And yes I really love salmon. Chivito / Fast Gourmet -- You can’t try and decode every flavor in this, you just kind of succumb to it and enjoy. Lime-scented fluke seviche / Palena Café -- Ceviche seems basic enough, but once the plate hits you poke around and keep finding surprises: some sliced almond, mini asparagus spears, shaved radish, candied lime, little matchsticks of pickled rhubarb, crème fraiche hidden underneath. You think all that might overpower the fish, so you try and get everything in one bite to see if it works. And of course it does. Bombolini / Fiola -- The best donuts around. Like a lot of dishes at Fiola, this seems rather simple but is somehow much more than its description. A perfect exclamation point to any dinner here. Duck bao buns / The Source -- Proper Asian cuisine is a big void in my eating habits, but these things were awesome. When I’m not as lazy I hope to find a place in the suburbs that has gua bao this good at half the price. Favorite meals 2 Amys in spring -- Everything here tastes better during that first warm week of the year. Gragnano + burrata + soft-shell crab panino + the best ice cream in D.C. = the season in a meal. Pupatella in summer -- Beer and pizza define the summer to me, and this gem does the latter better than anybody in the area. Toki Underground in winter -- Maybe it’s the fact I’m rarely around H Street, or the hour of pre-dinner drinking, or the loud and trendy space, or the sake, but every time I’ve had a hot bowl of ramen here has been a great night. Palena Café anytime -- Unabashedly my favorite part of my favorite restaurant in the city. Sometimes I miss the dining room a la carte, but honestly a good number of my café dishes have been better than what I used to order from the back room.

After several visits, it’s up there for me as well. I don’t mind the weekday waits (although they’ve been closer to 45 minutes than 20); the surrounding bars keep you occupied well enough. Once you get the call and find some elbow room, the service is especially sharp -- lots of patience and warm attitudes, despite having a continual rush and plenty of crazy Yelper types. While I don’t have any ramen expertise, the Hakata classic ($10) and curry chicken ($10) have both been pretty good. I don’t think the add-ons are necessary considering their price, except for the imported straight noodles ($2) they offer as a special. More bite to them, which I prefer. Side dishes and appetizers are closer to good than great, but they (like everything else here) are improving with each visit. And I appreciate the ever-changing variety. The atmosphere isn’t for everybody, with a certain hipster ambiance. But I like propping my feet on a skateboard, eating ramen, and listening to Black Moon at a loud volume. A fun spot that D.C. could use more of.

Been awhile since I've ordered a regular (always get bone marrow), but I seem to remember them being $6.99. In fact, I'm not sure they were ever $5.99.