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What Are You Simmering Right Now? A Place for Mid-Stew Musings


jparrott

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Have two giant pots of smoked turkey stock in the making right now. Aside from bean soup, any suggestions on what to make with it when I'm done?

Lucky you! Have fun with a risotto. As you reach the end of the stock, use a leftover ladle as the steaming liquid for homemade pot stickers or other dumplings. A smoky/sweet best-of-winter squash puree could be fascinating. And you can always freeze ice cubes or small containers of stock, investing in the flavor of many future meals.

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Oven-braising lamb shanks which I found challenging to brown evenly, given shape and thickness of protrusions at both ends of the tapered bones. Online recipes that I consulted advise me to ask my butcher to cut them in two, but photograph whole shanks as they are served at restaurants. At any rate, I stuck to a rather ordinary braising combo but added a few dehydrated heirloom tomatoes and a few crushed Juniper berries.

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Cut up a whole chicken. Rendering the fat from the skin and fatty bits. Breast meat chopped up for laap and pad grapao. Carcass frozen for stock. Simmering the legs, thighs and wings with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf, a piece of galanga, a few white peppercorns, a whole shallot, some coriander roots, garlic, a cardamom pod and a piece of pandan leaf. Will use the meat and stock in panang curry tonight and some other things later in the week (maybe tom yum, tom kha etc.)

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Does the crock pot on low count for simmering?

Got a flat of San Marzano tomatoes from the farmers market on Sunday along with a handful of other heirlooms to make tomato sauce with. Realized I didn't have a large enough pot that wouldn't potentially be reactive and I'm short on time so I thought I'd give the crockpot a try.

Quickly trimmed the ends off of the tomatoes and cut them in halves or thirds, then put them through the food processor in batches, pureeing some, leaving others more roughly chopped. Added those along with some minced sweet onions and garlic (also through the processor) to the pot and turned it on low. We'll see what I have when I get back from work, fingers crossed!

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Does the crock pot on low count for simmering?

Got a flat of San Marzano tomatoes from the farmers market on Sunday along with a handful of other heirlooms to make tomato sauce with. Realized I didn't have a large enough pot that wouldn't potentially be reactive and I'm short on time so I thought I'd give the crockpot a try.

Quickly trimmed the ends off of the tomatoes and cut them in halves or thirds, then put them through the food processor in batches, pureeing some, leaving others more roughly chopped. Added those along with some minced sweet onions and garlic (also through the processor) to the pot and turned it on low. We'll see what I have when I get back from work, fingers crossed!

I'm doing the same with a variety of cherry tomatoes from the farmers market, in the crock pot, with fresh thyme, carrots, celery, bay leaf, butter, onion, shallot, garlic, s+p and a pinch of sugar.

Fingers crossed too!

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boiling hard to reduce, not simmering: yesterday's multigallon pot of chicken/duck stock, after a night spent outside, and straining through a muslin towel this morning. made from roasted duck frame, chicken backs collected in the freezer from spatchcocking, eco-friendly necks and feet and a whole lotta aromatic veg and herbs.

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I made a big pot of chard & turnip greens for dinner.  Started with some bacon that I chopped & rendered, a couple of onions, sauteed in the fat until golden, a couple of garlic cloves, a leftover sweet potato that I cubed up, and enough greens to fill my big stock pot up to the top, added some water and a little balsamic and let it cook down until nice and tender.  It made a fine dinner, and the leftovers will make another good meal.

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That sounds like the Superman of stocks, I would be intimidated to make a soup worthy of such a base (but I'm sure it would be delicious).

Stock is the basis of good cooking. Fish stock is the simplest, poultry the next level, and veal or beef is the most complicated, and even that isn't really that hard, it just requires an extra step of oven roasting the bones prior to putting them in the stock pot. For fish (or shrimp shell) stock, put the head and bones of non-oily fish in with the rest of the ingredients and cook for a half hour or so, then strain. For poultry, veal or beef, a few hours. Pork and lamb are not generally used in French cuisine, but are useful for Middle Eastern (lamb) or Latin and Asian cuisines (pork)--but Asian stocks use different aromatics. These are the aromatics I tend to use, then cover all with water in a large pot:

white wine

onion

leek

celery with leaves

fennel

carrot

fresh thyme

parsley

bay leaf

cloves or allspice berries

black peppercorns

tarragon and lavender (optional)

orange/lemon peel (optional)

ginger root (optional)

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Stock is the basis of good cooking. Fish stock is the simplest, poultry the next level, and veal or beef is the most complicated, and even that isn't really that hard, it just requires an extra step of oven roasting the bones prior to putting them in the stock pot. For fish (or shrimp shell) stock, put the head and bones of non-oily fish in with the rest of the ingredients and cook for a half hour or so, then strain. For poultry, veal or beef, a few hours. Pork and lamb are not generally used in French cuisine, but are useful for Middle Eastern (lamb) or Latin and Asian cuisines (pork)--but Asian stocks use different aromatics. These are the aromatics I tend to use, then cover all with water in a large pot:

white wine

onion

leek

celery with leaves

fennel

carrot

fresh thyme

parsley

bay leaf

cloves or allspice berries

black peppercorns

tarragon and lavender (optional)

orange/lemon peel (optional)

ginger root (optional)

This is a next step for me. Something I've only experimented with a bit in the past but can count me now as inspired.  Not sure why I haven't embraced making my own stocks more--limited freezer space would be one excuse.  Then there's the ignorance of not having really researched or learned how to do this at a high level; i.e., make a truly excellent stock.  Some of the things you've posted about stocks (like leaving yours outside) and my own uncertainty about ideal ratios of water to everything else and time would be other excuses. But, those are just as I've labeled-excuses.  If you have a book or website you'd recommend, that'd be grand.  Thanks yet again, Zora.  I've had great homemade stocks enough to know this is a vastly superior way to cook than with the storebought I've generally used.

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Lamb shanks.  Due to other errands I got started too late to finish them in time for dinner tonight, so we will be having them tomorrow.  With tons of carrots of course, because that is my sweetie's favorite vegetable. Wine, chicken stock, and fish sauce in the liquid, along with lots of aromatics plus some chopped up dried shitakes.  Lots of umami.

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This is a next step for me. Something I've only experimented with a bit in the past but can count me now as inspired.  Not sure why I haven't embraced making my own stocks more--limited freezer space would be one excuse.  Then there's the ignorance of not having really researched or learned how to do this at a high level; i.e., make a truly excellent stock.  Some of the things you've posted about stocks (like leaving yours outside) and my own uncertainty about ideal ratios of water to everything else and time would be other excuses. But, those are just as I've labeled-excuses.  If you have a book or website you'd recommend, that'd be grand.  Thanks yet again, Zora.  I've had great homemade stocks enough to know this is a vastly superior way to cook that with the storebought I've generally used.

Amounts of ingredients and water depend on the quantity of bones and the size of the pot. You can make a small amount or a lot. If you lack freezer space, you can reduce the strained stock--which is what I do with veal stock, which turns it into glace de viande, which jellies and can be stored by the spoonful in snack bags, just perfect for throwing into a pan reduction sauce. For a first time making chicken stock--get 1 or 2 large packs of chicken backs, a package or two of necks and, if possible, some chicken feet. 1 large or 2 medium onions, 1 leek, 1 or two stalks of celery, 2 or three carrots, etc. etc. Put into a stock or pasta pot with the rest of the ingredients, pour in a bottle of dry white wine, and then enough water to cover everything with an inch or two of water. The longer it simmers, the better it'll taste. Just make sure that the water level doesn't drop too much, by adding water as needed.

It helps to have two pots, so you have an empty one to strain the stock into when you remove the solids by pouring through a colander. I generally make big pots of stock only when the weather is cold enough to store it outside overnight, but obviously if you have refrigerator space, store it there. If it is cold enough, the fat will congeal and then you can lift it off the next day. I clarify by straining the second time through a muslin towel--the classic method is to use a raft of egg white--you can read about it in any classic French technique book (Jacques Pepin, Madeleine Kamman, Julia Child). But a plain muslin towel works beautifully to get a clear stock. Once the stock is clarified, I generally reduce it by approximately 1/3 and then cool and pour into ziplock bags, which I freeze flat on a tray, or in plastic, stackable containers.

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Then there's the ignorance of not having really researched or learned how to do this at a high level; i.e., make a truly excellent stock.  Some of the things you've posted about stocks (like leaving yours outside) and my own uncertainty about ideal ratios of water to everything else and time would be other excuses. But, those are just as I've labeled-excuses.  If you have a book or website you'd recommend, that'd be grand.  Thanks yet again, Zora.  I've had great homemade stocks enough to know this is a vastly superior way to cook that with the storebought I've generally used.

Even a so so homemade stock will surpass anything store bought. Quit overthinking and get simmering. ;)

In all seriousness though, stock is easy and forgiving imho. If you want a good reference, I like Michael Ruhlman's The Elements of Cooking.

And once you've made a stock or two and feel more comfortable, discover the joy of pork stock. It's only in the last year that I thought to make pork stock (actually was forced to while recipe testing for an all things pork cookbook) and whoa, I won't go back. I much prefer using it in a lot of things where I formerly used chicken stock. Obviously anything already including pork like a pork stew, but I love it for my greens (collards, kale, etc.).

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With the arctic freeze today it seemed a perfect day for hunkering down and simmering something delicious.  Scurried out to the store early this morning and returned with the ingredients for a spicy pork and bean chili.  The kitchen smells great right now. 

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Beef broth for Christmas Eve dinner.  They say smell is the most evocative of the senses.  I'm awash in aromas and memories.

I'll be following behind in a few days. Decided my Christmas vacation project is to recreate Famous and Barr's french onion soup. I'm hoping the onions will mask the homesick tears for a time and place that is no more.

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Fennel stock, to go into the recipe for Braised Fennel Wedges with Saffron and Tomato from my Christmas gift of Deborah Madison's Vegetable Literacy.  Also, chicken taco filling (simmered in chicken broth with chipotles, guajillos, and other peppers) for tomorrow night's NCAA football championship.  The contrast is a little confusing...

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Chinese "master sauce" to use for chicken thighs later -- trying a version with more variety of spices than the basic"¦ in addition to star anise and cinnamon, it has cardamom, clove, fennel seeds. I also improvised and bastardized, so in addition to orange peel, ginger, garlic and scallions, I had tarragon branches in the fridge and threw some in thinking it would meld nicely with the star anise-fennel seed thing. Smells great. We shall see...

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Kitchen cull snow day short ribs using the Smitten Kitchen recipe, except I ran out of worchestshire sauce, so I subbed a tiny bit of terriyaki sauce and I didn't have beef stock, or bullion so I used chicken stock.  In the oven now for their 3 hour bake.  Hopefully they turn out ok.  

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