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Dino, Dean Gold and Kay Zimmerman's Italian Enoteca in Cleveland Park with Beverage Director Fabian Malone - Closed


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We had a lovely time at Dino -- we had made an early reservation both to avoid traffic and because I don't get out of work (lunchless ;)) until after 2 on Saturdays. We started with a sparking rose and the charcuterie plate -- love, love, LOVE the fresh mozzarella. Honestly the best I've ever had, including when I was in Italy. Of course, I was a college student, so I was mostly surviving on bread and nutella, but still, this I think I would have remembered. Delicious. Tripewriter chose the Venetian menu, but I was tempted off course and onto the regular menu. He started with the tris de mare and correctly identified the three kinds of seafood -- Chef Ramsay would have been proud. I had the burrata, with a whole ball of the magnificent mozzarella. Between the two of us, it totally disappeared. I think that if you have a little of the lovely, buttery, crusty bread with some of the red pepper tapanade and a slice of the oven tomato, covered with a piece of the mozzarella, it's perfect. Next Tripewriter had the risotto -- creamy, mushroomy, and decadent -- and I had the bean salad, which I thought was magnificent. The flavor of the dressing was very nice -- lemony, yes, but with an underflavor that I couldn't identify that was perfect. Next was the veal breast for Tripewriter and the boar pasta for me. The veal was lovely, and the sauce was outstanding. I think a real star of the meal, though, was the boar pieces in the pasta dish. They're cooked for at least 8 hours and sometimes overnight, and they're soft, rich, and flavorful. Even the veal couldn't compete against the boar. I finally understood Obelix's obsession after that dish :P For dessert we both tried the strawberry/rhubarb shortbread. I think this is the only place that the meal failed to Wow us -- for me, the strawberries just overwhelmed the rhubarb, which almost always happens, and always makes me sad. Am I the only one who grew up on pure, straight, tart and tangy rhubarb? However, the moscato was pure ambrosia. Like bottled angels laughter. We left full -- but not distended -- happy, and feeling the love. We'll be back!

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I think a real star of the meal, though, was the boar pieces in the pasta dish.

I think Paula and I may have been seated next to you Saturday night. The wild boar pasta was the highlight of our meal as well, and is certainly a dish that will make us return. Another dish that was a hit was the cold Roasted Red Pepper Soup which was served with marscapone and, if my memory is correct, an olive oil gelato. The rest of our meal was delicious as well and included the Antipasti della Casa and the crab and spinach shell pasta. For my dessert, I had to try the Condimento (vinegar) with vanilla gelato. I enjoyed the tart/sweet contrast, and I really appreciated the unique combination, but I am not sure that I would order this again. Paula ordered the Crepes with Nutella, which did not last long on the plate.

Service was extremely friendly, and it was nice to finally meet Dean Gold as we were leaving. This was our first visit to Dino and certainly won't be our last.

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One of the best desserts I have had in a long time was the Nutella filled crepes.

The smell of the porterhouse steak was enough to bring a smile to my face, it smelled like steak used to smell. Beefy, fatty, and just delightful. The taste, well that was exactly how a steak should taste, there was enough fat left on the tenderloin to give it a beefy flavor, and the strip loin was more succulent than on steaks that I have had that cost three times as much. Bravo Dean.

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RW at Dino! We went last night, for the first time in way too long. The place was rockin' and even better than we remembered.

Dean brought us a bottle of De Conciliis Donnaluna Aglianico, which was delightful and versatile and didn't break the wallet. His enthusiasm for the wine made the experience even better. We started with the fabulous burrata - I (unsuccessfully) tried to hide the last bit of the hubby's share behind the basil leaf so I could have it to myself - and the dreamy polenta. I strongly recommend the polenta with the mushrooms, which had just enough acid (balsamic?) and meaty texture to be the perfect counterpoint to the creamy polenta. My lasagne was rich and good but perhaps not the best choice given the ghastly heat outside and what, at that point, was a rapidly decreasing amount of available space in my belly. My husband was the big winner of the evening with the whole bronzino, perfectly fresh and lightly finished with lemon and capers. When the Nutella crepes arrived, I groaned and then almost cleaned the plate. I'm a Nutella fanatic, but what really wowed me were the crepes themselves - light, delicate texture and taste.

We left stuffed silly and wondering why we're such morons not to go more often.

(I have to add that I nearly swooned when a waiter passed by with a trayful of steak orders. I'll have to fast in anticipation, but mmmm next time ...)

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A few months ago, in need of a sure-thing for a special occasion (a birthday dinner for my wife, attended by her mother and very fussy grandmother), I decided to put my fate in the hands of Dino. After sending a PM pleading for a little extra attention, and a couple of phone calls to arrange for things like flowers waiting at the table, etc., they delivered beyond my wildest expectations. All details, large and small, were attended to by our waiter and the GM, ranging from the aforementioned flowers presented in advance, a ground floor table for easy access by my wife's grandmother, a perfectly chosen wine for the occasion, and completely thorough service.

The meal itself was so spectacular that I tried to write about it a few times after that evening, and scrapped my posts feeling that I had failed to deliver the gist of how good the food was. So, rather than try to re-live it here, I'll just say that my fond memories about the cheese plate and steak special particularly are still with me.

After a stingy RW dinner at a different restaurant, I was reminded by contrast of how completely generous, in both spirit and flavors, that night at Dino was. It's about time I mentioned it here.

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After a stingy RW dinner at a different restaurant, I was reminded by contrast of how completely generous, in both spirit and flavors, that night at Dino was.

I have to follow up because I couldn't believe it when I saw reverbbrad's other post. By coincidence, we had made a reservation at that other restaurant and canceled (with plenty of notice!) because I was having second thoughts and wanted to go somewhere more relaxed and, oh look! Dino has an 8:00! Wow, I'm so glad I went with my instincts and then got lucky with the time. It's really true -- Dino is a special place.

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Looks like Dino got a new chef.

This is the language from the recent mailing.....
Ciao Amici!

Lots going on right now at Dino!

Chris, Kay and I are happy to introduce our new Executive Chef, Stephan
Boillon! Stephan comes from Florida where he has amassed quite a
resume! He was born and raised in a restaurant family. His father's
restaurant, Le Mesquite, was his "school of hard knocks." Being
originally from France, Stephan's father used family connections to
bring a steady supply of young French chefs to his restaurant, and
Stephan got hands-on training. Stephan worked every station in the
kitchen getting a broad based foundation of his craft before moving out
on his own.

Stephan has worked for some of the most recognized restaurants in
Florida. Most recently he was Chef de Cuisine at Chef Allen's in
Aventura. Chef Allen's regularly tops the Florida Zagat survey (# 1 New
World and #2 overall for three years running). Chef Allen Susser is a
James Beard "Best Chef" winner, and Stephan was part of Susser's team
that cooked the "Much Ado about Mangoes" dinner at the James Beard House
in 2006. Stephan was Sous Chef to another James Beard winner, Mark
Militello of Mark's Las Olas. He was also sous chef at Olivier Saucy's
at Café Maxx.

While an impressive resume is a great thing to have, the only thing that
counts is what is on the plate. Stephan has impressed me so far with
the confidence and simplicity of his food. Whether a simple piece of
fish, rolled in herbs, roasted and served with a bouquet of local,
organic summer herbs in a tomato thyme broth, a plate of fresh
pappardelle with heirloom tomatoes & grilled veggies, or a simple
grilled white peach served with Greek yogurt and Chestnut honey, the
food is bright, straightforward and flavorful with a light and deft
touch.

After tasting the test menu he prepared for me, I asked him if he would
be happy preparing this simple style of food. His answer tells the
real story. "Sure! It's a lot easier. You just have to have great
ingredients and put them out. It more rewarding that way." Stephan is
fully in tune with Dino's rustic, simple approach and is excited to
work with the network of artisan producers whom we have developed
relationships with over our first two plus years. He brings with him
some new folk for us to look at for fresh seafood from Florida's waters
to an all natural farm for grains and nuts.

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I brought my parents to Dino for dinner tonight, and they were very happy and lamented the lack of good places to eat back home. Thanks to vinist for introducing me to the Edmund St. John "rocks and gravel" blend, which my mom declared the best wine she's ever had (not that she's had LOADS of wine) and my dad who also really enjoyed it. My mom is, however, determined to purchase more of it, which is something I've never heard her say.

Thanks to Kay and Biljana who made my parents very, very happy. (Yes, Kay did fine without you Dean) For starters, we had the fried squash blossoms stuffed with mozzarella, the burata and prosciutto. The squash blossoms were perfectly fried and loaded with mozzarella. The tomato sauce lent a nice acidic balance. I also loved how creamy and naturally melty the burata was plus its amazing additions of tapenade, roasted peppers and tomatoes. Prosciutto at Dino is how prosciutto should be, silky and meaty at the same time.

Entrees were the rack of lamb, salmon and crab pasta. That was some mighty tender and flavorful lamb. My dad was totally digging it, though he did want a little more sauce. Salmon was cooked beautifully with a nice green sauce. The crab pasta was light and had honking chunks of crab meat. Everything just seemed so good, clean and fresh.

My parents loved their chocolate souffle cake and tiramisu. They were also both very surprised by how good the balsamico and gelato are together. I always love that sharpness against the gelato.

Thanks Dean and Kay for a great dinner and making my parents very happy.

Oh yeah... Chris made an awesome new drink, a strawberry basil gin fizz. Mmm...

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But still, it's only twice the time for me to drive to Cleveland Park, where there is

1) a far superior Italian restaurant that's very friendly and accessible...

Speaking of which, my party of four had a delightful time at Dino on Sunday night. New chef Stephan Boillon seems to have hit the ground running (a good thing, since he took over the kitchen just in time for Restaurant Week) as practically every dish was spot-on. Burrata as delectable as ever, calamari tender and perfectly fried with a light breading, stuffed squash blossoms, the benchmark cinghiale ragu...I was pleasantly surprised, actually, as I'd found former chef Amaya's debut to be quite a bit more variable. For my main, I selected the Gramigna con Agnello (although the gramigna looked more like bucatini to me :angry:) in which the pasta is sauced with a small amount of slow-cooked lamb shoulder and cherry tomatoes, but the underlying broth was a hidden gem to me - rich and herbal and summery, and worth sopping up with a crust of bread.

But the thing that had me dumbstruck was the value of the "restaurant month" deal. Last weekend, that included whole branzino as a main-course option. The last whole branzino I had (elsewhere) cost more by itself than the entire three-course deal! The early-bird $24 menu della sera is even more ridiculously priced...if I lived anywhere near Cleveland Park, I'd be dining two or three nights a week until the deal runs out, and hoping that I wasn't bankrupting them. We downed a fruity-yet-rounded bottle of 2004 La Giaretta Valpolicella "i Quadretti" with our meal, which both drank well and paired well with the meats and the fish.

Sorry, I'm gushing. It has been a week of tremendous meals for Gubeen and me, and in its category, Dino exceeded my expectations. I look forward to seeing what Stephan is capable of once tomato season winds down and the menu changes.

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What a delicious night we had at Dino yesterday evening! Five of us trickled in over the course of two hours, gathering at the bar for cocktails and conversation. We were having a great time trying wines- special thanks to Kay for stopping by! We were chatting between us and the lovely bartender (can't recall her name) when a light fixture hanging near the staircase fell/shattered/exploded! There is something to be said about the charm of Dino's staff that everything was handled lightly, and correctly. Drinks, snacks cleared and replaced without charge. Everyone had a giggle.

Our food was, as always, declious. Between the five of us, the appetizers were the Insalata di Fagioli e Farro (which I did not try but got rave reviews), Fiori di Zucca zucchini blossoms (ditto), Verdure alla Griglia with mozzarella (perfection), I had the Tris di Crostini, and while I did not care for the ragusano cheese, the tomato crostini was wonderful. I do not recall the fifth appetizer but I know that all plates were emptied.

For entrees, three of us ordered the Pollo con Limone e Olive. Oh wow. This is the stuff of legends for me. I'm sure my dining companions enjoyed the view as I oh-so-elegantly picked at each bone till there was nothing left of the succulent meat. Mmmm, the garlic, the olive oil, the spinach. The other two entrees were the Zucchini Ripieni and the Gramigna con Agnello which I sampled though I usually don't touch red meat. However, when in Rome.. or Toscana...

We were all more than satisfied by our entrees, but dessert looked too good to pass up. Sadly there was no sorbetti to be had that evening. My companions ordered the gelati- a trio of chocolate, vanilla and pistachio. I dipped my spoon into the chocolate and vanilla, and listened to them rave about the pistachio- how it tasted like an exponential explosion of the real thing. However I could not afford to be jealous, for in front of me sat a magical salad of blue and blackberries, topped with aged balsamico and a dollop of marscarpone. The tang and acid of the vinegar was the perfect backdrop for the smooth cheese, and its sweetness enhanced by the natural sugars of the berries.

We left full, happy, and as my friend put it, "drunk with good food." Grazie!

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Dave, we saw you when you were talking to Dean. Trying to get attetion from you but you were busy....

We usually let Dean choose menu and pair wines for us so I didn't know what I was going to have. A salmon dish and a pasta with braised lamb came and I switched when my hubby left shortly for question to the server. He saw what I did and got mad at me but I didn't regret because it was sooooo good. I apologized him but am still looking for better way to pay back. You might think that it is just a pasta dish but you GOTTA try this one.

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Dean must be making life hard on his Italian competition up the street. On Saturday night its owner was heard to be muttering to several guests who had just come from Dino that the owner and chef "aren't even Italian." As if that matters when they are putting out great food and have a wine list that puts this guy's restaurant to shame.

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Headed to Dino tomorrow night to celebrate my MIL's birthday. Have never tried the polenta but have always wanted to. I am thinking I should get it with the sausage unless anyone else suggests otherwise...
Although have not had the opportunity to try the new chef's version, I doubt you'll be disappointed -- creamy, cheesy, meaty--it's true comfort food.
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Headed to Dino tomorrow night to celebrate my MIL's birthday. Have never tried the polenta but have always wanted to. I am thinking I should get it with the sausage unless anyone else suggests otherwise...

I like the pancetta... higher ration of fat to lean. If I'm gonna piss off my cardiologist........

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Had a wonderful meal at Dino last night. It's hard to believe it took us this long to get there. It was delightful talking to Dean and Kay. I mostly followed Dean's suggestions on food, though I'd planned to order the lamb pasta anyway B). Between my husband and me, we had the saltimbocca and the polenta with roasted mushrooms; lamb pasta and the papparedelle with wild boar ragu; a cheese course (I had the prosecco cheese and the blue that Dean recommended) and the blueberry compote with shortbread. We drank a couple of nice reds by the glass, and I finished the meal with limoncello. Strong. Excellent but strong :angry:.

I also loved the bread. That olive oil and salt were luscious for dipping.

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On a Saturday evening during Labor Day weekend, I found myself with absolutely nothing to do, and so I decided to treat myself - to go somewhere I liked, somewhere I wanted to be, somewhere just for me - and so I went to the bar at Dino.

First of all, the bar manager Chris Cunningham is only half the man he used to be. And I mean that almost literally: Congratulations, Chris - you look great!

I've had about five Caprese salads in the past couple of weeks, and the one at Dino ($10) was right up there near the top along with the magnificent version at Poste. (We're in absolute prime tomato season right now, and the only "ordinary" Caprese I've had recently has been at 1789, with its marginal tomatoes, tiny strips of tasteless basil, and dry, dense mozzerella.) With Dino, you just know you're going to get superior olive oil, good coarse salt, and market-fresh tomatoes and basil. Curiously, this is the only Caprese I've seen this year that serves actual olives, which were pitted and seemed extraneous although they certainly didn't detract from this fine, well-priced salad.

You know you're in trouble when you're getting full, and you have a one-kilogram bone-in ribeye coming your way. From the section of the menu labeled La Griglia Toscana (The Tuscan steakhouse) came Bistecca alla Fiorentina ($44), a two-pound bone-in Meyer ribeye, ordered and (thankfully) served a perfect medium-rare. Unlike many large steaks served in this area, Dino's is grilled on a flattop, which doesn't produce that ultra-hot char that you'll get at some steakhouses. This is neither good nor bad; just different, although I have a personal preference for steaks cooked under a higher heat, mainly because it melts and crisps some of the fat. Served on a wooden cutting board with very good halved potatoes and spinach, this was a good dish, but not one I'd necessarily order again simply because you can dine very well at Dino for much less money than this.

Cheers,

Rocks.

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On a Saturday evening during Labor Day weekend, I found myself with absolutely nothing to do, and so I decided to treat myself - to go somewhere I liked, somewhere I wanted to be, somewhere just for me - and so I went to the bar at Dino.
Heh - so that was you sitting next to the bar. We started the evening at the bar with one of Chris' fantastic martinis and then moved out to the patio for a leisurely dinner. Lamb pasta, boar pasta, and new york strip were ordered and along with a bottle of the Barbaresco 2000 (I think). I was dead by the time dessert hit me. Great food from Chef Stephan.

Tempted to make a visit there tonite for the Valpolicella & Amarone wine flight/antipasto deal.

ETA: NEVERMIND. We were there on Thurs, not Sat. The weekend is all a blur. But if it wasn't you next to the bar, it was your doppleganger. :angry:

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I thought I'd return to Dino a second and third time before posting about it. I don't, after all, really have anything new to add. But who knows how long it'll be before those return visits actually happen, and I've thought several times of my meal since making my inaugural visit a couple of Fridays ago.

When booking on OpenTable (through the restaurant's website), I made the following, out-of-character, special request: "We want Dean to tell us stories, pick our wines, and show us what neighborhood Italian is all about." Such requests are not normal for me, but given Dean's longstanding presence, tone, and openness on this website, it seemed fitting.

Well, I don't know if that request was ever read or not, but Dino gave to us a memorable, delicious, and fun evening. We tried a whole lot of food--the burrata, meatballs, polenta with pancetta, calamari, proscuitto with melon, lamb pasta, boar pasta, New York strip, Arctic char, blueberry shortbread, vanilla gelato with balsamico, chocolate cake, and a dessert I can't remember--and raved about 12 of the 13 dishes.

What I might remember most, though, are the wines that accompanied our meal. They were significant, priced very fairly, and had wonderful stories attached:

Hilberg (Pasquera) Nebbiolo d'Alba 2003

Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino 2000/1 (not certain about the vintage)

**I should note that Dino charges $20 less for the Hilberg than does wd-50, where we'd dined a couple of months before.

I did not identify myself as a contributor here, and Dean was just as affable and hospitable as I imagine he is to his best customers. We left very pleased to have experienced the love that many here have known all along. For selfish reasons, I wish Dino were in my neighborhood rather than Cleveland Park.

Thanks, Dean and crew. We'll see you again.

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I believe the difference is more egg and the addition to semolina. They seem be packed a little bit less firmly too (a good thing).
I don't know what they were like before, but I would describe them as soft. They held together just fine but broke apart really nicely. I quite liked them.
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Tripewriter and I hit Dino last night for just the second of what we hope will be many times. After all the (deleted) kerfluffle about the new chef, this is what I came away with from last night's dinner: If you're going to Dino to have the exact same dinner you used to have before, you will be -- rightfully -- disappointed. However, if you go expecting to have the same experience you had before, you will be a happy camper. We were starving and in fact tried to get in about an hour before our reservation -- which sadly was 30 min before they even opened! We started with the burrata (of course!), which was fabulous -- I just love the taste explosion of the dried tomatoes with the intense cream of the mozz/ricotta. We also had the crostini. The tomato was crisply flavorful, the Asiago perhaps a little too much so. Tripewriter seemed to enjoy the mushroom one. I loved how delicately thin the slices of bread were -- the only flaw in the plan being how they shattered when you tried to be dainty and nibble on them. We next shared a couple of hot antipasti -- the meatballs and the polenta (with sausage). The meatballs just didn't do it for me -- I found them cold and a little dry -- but Tripewriter had the complete opposite experience off the same plate, so I may have eaten the bad meatball in the barrel, as it were. The polenta is the stuff of warm, cozy dreams. Want. Tripewriter also had a half portion of the boar pasta, which was very different from what we'd had before, but he enjoyed it. Next I had the bean and wheat salad, which was perhaps just a little overcooked but with that lovely flavor I remembered from last time. Tripewriter had the amberjack, which he devoured. I had a small taste before it was gone, and it was nice and smoky. Dean said that he's going to be doing more seafood and more grilling -- I'm excited to see what that will bring. The dessert was, for lack of a better word, yummy -- I had the chocolate cake, which, yes, has been done to death, but for a good reason. It's rich and creamy, chocolatey and soothing. It's kind of a desserty comfort food, and it actually is rarely done well. This was one of those times. Tripewriter had the espresso with gelato (which begins with an "A," but the name escapes me for now). In sum, it was a good experience with good food, and we were not disappointed that we had gone back. We shall return! If only for more of that divine polenta.

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Will Dino again be offering a special Rosh Hashanah menu?

We will open early on Erev Rosh Hashana and on Kol Nidre eveing, Wednesday 9/12 and Friday 9/21 at 5:00 pm for those attending services. But no special menu for this holiday. Probably we will do a channukah dinner and we will definitely do Passover again.

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Any info on whether this is a good year for white truffles?

So far they are expensive and OK quality. But that is not unusual for this early. They are looking for some rain. If they get it everything will look good. If not it depends on how hot it stays. They are said to be better than last year's for what it is worth.

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Paula and I enjoyed a terrific dinner at Dino on Saturday night, which was our first dinner out without our daughter. We enjoyed the Burrata, Potato Croquettes, and the Wild Boar Pasta, which have been mentioned repeatedly in this thread. However, do not overlook the Lamb Pasta, which was fantastic. The lamb is braised in red wine with herbs and olives in an heirloom tomato sauce with a large tubular spaghetti. The lamb had a strong, gamey flavor (in a good way). What we really liked about this dish is that each of the ingredients stood well on their own, as the sweetness of the tomatoes, the saltiness of the olives, and the brightness of the herbs were perfectly in balance. Any leftover sauce was wiped away with bread. Our entrees were washed down with a half-bottle of Cordero di Montezemolo (Nebbiolo) Barolo, Monfaletto, Piemonte 2000.

We decided to be gluttons and get both a cheese course and dessert. The chestnut leaf-wrapped Robiola was woodsy, a little funky, and delicious. While we also enjoyed the raw sheep bleu cheese (Erborinati di Pecora) as well as the Guffanti Gorgonzola.

The rhubarb mini cake as well as the trio of gelatos (vanilla, chocolate, and pistachio) finished up our meal nicely.

Thanks again to Dean for his menu recommendations, for stopping by to chat, and for making our first night out sans baby relaxing and enjoyable. We couldn't find you as we were leaving, so I will pose my question to you here. Will you please open a location in northern Virginia? Particularly Vienna, Virginia? I know you get lost driving in northern Virginia, but I promise that it is easier than you think. :blink:

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We had a fantastic dinner last night at Dino. We did the early evening menu della sera--three courses, $24. This is a great deal--we left full and very happy. The hangar steak was flavorful, perfectly cooked, and the balsamic reduction (I think) on top was a nice complement to the mashed potatoes and rapini underneath. My girlfriend's lamb pasta was a very rustic take, with a hearty lamb ragu (I think) over ideally cooked tube pasta. Starters and desserts were also good--in fact, everything about this meal was just exactly on key. We did a ripasso (La Giaretta) to complement, and enjoyed that very much as well.

In addition to the great food, we were very happy with our server, who was friendly and efficient. It's also nice to see the owners floating around, talking to the guests. The whole experience right now at Dino just seems spot-on, and we look forward to going back soon.

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the balsamic reduction (I think) on top was a nice complement to the mashed potatoes and rapini underneath.

Thanks for the nice words.

The Balsamico is from Villa Manodoli which is a fairly particular product. It is made by a chef in Modena from a blend of younger and older aged vinegars. It averages out to about 12 years old and is much older than most vinegars that are said to be 12 years old (meaning they have a solera that is 12 years old, it was aged near some 12 year old vinegar, etc. etc.) When buying old balsamico or blended balsamico, go with the producers name and not what is on the label. I love Carandini, Malphigi, Leonardi and Villa Manodori right now.

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The Menu della Sera really is quite a steal, especially given the nice variety of choices that appear on it. I've only been to Dino a few times, but I feel the food has gotten better with each subsequent trip. This past time, I had the Tris di Crostini and the Papardelle ai Cinghiale. Even though I had ordered the papardelle back during August Restaurant Month, it seemed like the right choice with the excellent Rosso that I was drinking. I'm glad I did order it again, as the chef has re-worked the dish and, in my opinion, taken it to a new level. The sauce is definitely thicker, and really holds to the pappardelle well, giving each bite lots of flavor. The three crostini were also far and away better than previous times I've ordered the appetizer, with each having a nice bit of spice tempered with richness from the olive oil.

A major selling point of the menu della sera for me is that you can swap another starter for dessert as one of the three courses! Even though I've liked Dino desserts in the past, it was great to be able to add an heirloom tomato salad as my middle course.

I really wish this restaurant was closer to home, but a trip up the Red Line isn't too far to not make this part of my rotation. It was great to see dirtymartini behind the bar as well. Between Chris and Tom, I definitely enjoy eating at the bar here best.

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It is made by a chef in Modena from a blend of younger and older aged vinegars. It averages out to about 12 years old and is much older than most vinegars that are said to be 12 years old (meaning they have a solera that is 12 years old, it was aged near some 12 year old vinegar, etc. etc.) When buying old balsamico or blended balsamico, go with the producers name and not what is on the label. I love Carandini, Malphigi, Leonardi and Villa Manodori right now.

Is this similar to the solera system they use in Spain for sherry?

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Is this similar to the solera system they use in Spain for sherry?

Most vinegar from Modena is made in a solera system. The vinegars are traditionally started from boiled must although even consorzio rated vinegars can be made with red wine vinegar as a starter (there are two conzorzio so you have to know both labels). Again Consorzio approval don't mean much in my book! Each year fresh vinegar is added and some is taken away to be added to the next level down. By the time 12 additions and subtractions are made, depending on the amount subtracted each year, the amount of 12 year old vinegar in the solera can be minuscule or huge. For example, if you bottle 20% of your solera a year, after 12 years (assuming the solera stays the same size over time) about 8.5% of the solera will be "12 year old vinegar". But if you bottle only 20% a year, after 3 to 4 years a mother will form and you will lose a lot of vinegar. So to prevent this from happening, a lot of producers bottle a higher percentage (40+%)

At a 40% bottling rate, less than 1/3 of a percent will be 12 years old.

The good producers fill their barrels 3/4 full and allow them to evaporate to 1/2 full each year. Then they take 1/3 of what is left and add it to the next level and refill the barrel from 1/3 full back to 3/4 full. After 3 years they clean out the barrel completely and add it to the next level down of the solera. At that point they have a barrel full of 1 to 7 year old vinegars. Some producers call this stuff 1 year old (Carandini because this is the youngest vinegar in there) and some call it more (Villa Manodori uses the average age of the vinegars accounting for the evaporation and diminution process). This cleaning out fo the barrels is repeated every 3 years till the vinegar is the desired thickness, sweetness, density etc. The wood of the barrel can darken, lighten, make heavier or lighter the vinegar during the first 6 or so years of its aging. After that the vinegar only gets richer and denser but cannot be further changed.

So that stuff you see at TJ's that says it is 10 year old and sells for $6.99 just ain't the real deal. Weather you like it or not, it is not a minimum 10 year old product. Again, depend on the name and not what the label says.

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Last night, our party of 8 was given a table for 6. It was the corner booth at the back, adjacent to the restroom, close to the swinging kitchen door -- not the best table in the house. My introduction to this highly regarded place started inauspiciously especially since a dinner companion had received a call from the restaurant confirming the reservation. Yet, instead of having to just bear and grin it, we were nicely treated to management efforts to make amends. Our table was given complementary champagne and treated to a wonderful meal. Especially noteworthy were the mushroom polenta, wild boar pasta, the lamb pasta and the ribeye.

But that's not all. While our table was contemplating the dessert options, Mr. Gold (?) came out and gave us a complementary bottle of moscata. The gesture was unexpected especially since we were already served champagne but fully appreciated. Mistakes happen, but they don't have to be compounded. Unfortunately, they are when a restaurant reacts with defensiveness or indifference. Happily, Dino acted exemplarily. It's one of those rare places that combines fantastic food and conscientious service.

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