ChiantiandFava

Had the $20 three-course lunch special yesterday--they should be a lot busier than they are. Breckenridge Agave Wheat Beer to drink. A mistake. Thick and uninteresting (lacking any type of citrus, a must for a summer wheat), I wish I had gone with a konig pilsener. My three courses were the purple cabbage salad, duck confit banh mi sandwich, and lemongrass pot de creme. The salad was fresh and vibrant. It probably could have fed three people but the bites that contained a good amount of fish sauce and peanuts were great. The duck banh mi was fantastic. I know almost nothing about Vietnamese cuisine (OK, I know almost nothing about any cuisine east of the Urals) but how could these ingredients not make something awesome: Duck confit, chicken liver spread, a crunchy baguette-ish roll, pickled vegetables, fresh herbs, tangy (mustard-based?) sauce. The pot de creme was cool, creamy and.... lemony. I would recommend it but I would happily try something else too. This is a great lunch deal if you have the time. I ate around 1pm and had a small vanilla yogurt for dinner.

I was trying to think of a spot that didn't do well or wasn't as big a destination restaurant (I think of the continentals as neighborhood spots) and should have used Tangerine or maybe Blue Angel as examples. It's all relative.. There was a time when I thought Red Lobster was a great restaurant (in 1993). Then a few years later I worked the line and threw a lot of stuff (crab bisques, veggies, pasta, etc.) in the microwave..

So... anywhere/anyone doing something fun for National Escargot Day? (Tuesday, May 24th).

Some random information for perspective: Parc is a 280 seat behemoth of a restaurant in the poshest neighborhood in Philly. Parc's former chef was Artie Cavaliere (recently departed from Central). Parc originally secured a decent 2 bells from renowned critic Craig Laban in 2008 but was upgraded to a strong 3 bells later in the year. Starr restaurants are generally high concept spots that can (Dandelion, Striped Bass) or can't (Pod, Continental) perform in the kitchen.

It's not difficult to find coffee shops or small eateries that provide copies of the WaPo either (I used to go to Sidamo just cuz I knew they carried the Philly Inq). I did find the piece engaging, especially how many of the participants felt climate change was the gorilla in the closet. I agree but when speaking of climate change the dangers of melting ice caps tend to outweigh the nuisance of more bugs (so maybe food concerned whistle blowers should pick their battles accordingly). I do still find Schlosser's angle on the real human toll of agro-business compelling. Makes me think of Barbara Ehrenreich's book Nickel and Dimed.

Also heard through the grapevine that the sous chef from Cork will be heading up to Ripple in the very near future.

Yeah I always avoided the one in Olde City (Philly) like the plague... A mediocre place for a cocktail, maybe.

Lamb burger. Seasoned with dill, paprika, sumac, pepper and garlic. Stuffed with fresh ricotta and served on an english muffin. Lamb meat was too lean, then I overcooked and underseasoned it. Ricotta was solid but a soft goat's cheese would have been better. Next time...

Welp after reading Don's review I certainly not regret not being able to talk the lady into getting the chicken special on Friday night. Instead we got the pork dumplings, seafood salad, short rib raviolis and duo of lamb. I can easily recall the distinctive tastes of all four dishes, including the dumplings (the trick seemed to be to get a little bit of each component into each bite). On the lamb dish the meats were perfectly cooked, the broccoli rabe was appropriately seasoned, and the potatoes had a dense texture (almost like sweet potatoes). Still haven't had a bad wine here either. I tend to steer towards old world wines in doubt but have been pleasantly surprised by the West Coast wines I've tried--even uncommon grapes like the Sangiovese out of the Yakima Valley in Oregon (pleasantly dry and aromatic) and the Sauvignon Blanc from California (very mineral driven) were fantastic food companions. The California Cabernet is predictable but useful with the assertive meats found at the Atlas Room. We were also unaware of the reservations policy but were able to snag a seat later when a few rezies didn't show (around 9pm).

The heat definitely has me craving a steam bucket from Buddy's in Surf City (Topsail Island). Despite the slowest service ever that stands out as one of the better dining experiences (ocean breeze, cold beer, my lovely lady) I've had in the past few years.

Yeah last night was a disaster. The pace of the game made it seem especially bad but none of the cashiers knew what the hell was going on. It seemed like some kind of system-wide credit card machine disaster. They wouldn't even let people pay cash until they could open the till. One cashier was pouring beers and allowing people to drink while she waited for backup, which was appreciated, but time was at a premium with Cliff on the mound. Another issue is that in the upper deck area they don't have any (or not nearly enough) of the walking vendors (who only deal in cash).. That definitely would have taken some pressure off the stands. Unrelated--what are people thinking when they dress themselves for a ballgame? Shirt and tie straight from work, fine, but so many people last night were dressed for a night out.. Fucking interns.

Looks like they're changing to a four course $65 tasting menu starting April 19th, choice of three items per course and $15 cheese plate add-on. I've always wondered why some restaurants go from a la carte to tasting--problems with executing too many menu combinations? A tasting menu offers a heightened experience? Oh well, I'll be checking it out regardless.

Bibou French BYOB close to the Italian Market It's not that the food wasn't great. It was. But Bibou was more a revelation in the atmosphere it produced; homey and intimate don't nearly encapsulate the feeling we had by the end of our meal. If the words don't do it justice, well, use your imagination. Here are a few snapshots from the night-- Our sexagenarian server in an amusing French accent- "I have one order left of the last oysters of the season. West Coast. Very briny." Later on a lamb special- "We also have lamb chops from Colorado. Very expensive." (They were $45). After reading some of the reviews I thought I could prepare myself for the bewitching effects of charm but the earnestness and honesty of the place resonated deeply. We started with the oysters (which were more briny than I'm accustomed to from the west coast), a first for my dining partner. Overhearing us Charlotte (Chef Pierre Calmels' wife) came over and told us how she didn't try oysters until she was 29. Tonight was my lady's 28th birthday. More traditional foodie note-The mignonette they served with the oysters was mild enough not to overpower the Pacific ocean. Next up was the escargots in a bordelaise sauce with trumpet mushrooms, fava beans, tarragon, and plenty of diced shallots. Really delicious and wonderfully different from the classic butter-garlic version most are accustomed to. We cleaned out the snail shaped bowl with our bread. I was able to talk my partner into the veal bone-marrow, which came next. It was decadently rich and served in the bone. It resembled stuffing but was so concentrated I actually asked my adopted papi/server why he brought it out before the fletan (halibut)--he replied "We just wanted to slow it down for a nice dinner." Maybe I've eaten in and worked at too many bistros but a novel concept like "slowing down the meal" really floored me. The halibut didn't blow me away, but that was a good thing following the bone-marrow. Served with an English pea puree and orange Sicilian veal jus it was a model of restraint. The fish itself was expertly cooked and flaked under the pressure of a fork edge. This was all despite the fact that they split the dish, unrequested. As advertised Chef Calmels did indeed stop by the table. Maybe it was the wine, which by the way was the only disappointment of the night (thanks in part to the terrible selection of Philly's "premium" PLCB stores), but I blurted out something like "If I were a writer I'd say we are full in belly and spirit." Ugh. Might as well have just drunk texted him.. The [less feminate synonym for magical] evening wrapped up with one last bit of grace-- while we posed for a self-shot outside of Bibou a busser/food-runner (who had early recognized my dining partner from her work at a tavern he frequented years back) came outside and took the picture for us. I've had some fantastic dining experiences in Philly over the years (Tinto, Morimoto, etc.) but Bibou would be the very first place I would return to.

Phew. Debated but ended up getting the sausage, tomato, onion dangerous pie. Rich crust was the best part. The lady got the lamb and rice from that kabob truck I haven't seen before. That was delicious.

I think Tom does a great job personifying the majority of DC diners--they don't like to think much. Sietsma brushes aside Medium Rare because he can't see himself eating steak frites every day. What an insight, what specialized knowledge you have.. Perhaps you could have delved into the questions raised by the philosophy you "dig"? Shouldn't restaurants have focused menus? At what point is the aperture narrowed beyond the eye of repeat customers? How lazy can a critic be before an angry mob begins lobbying for targeted cannibalism? Uhh...what?

I spent Wednesday-Sunday hanging out in Philly and attending the ACRL (Association of College and Research Libraries) conference. Here are the meals I enjoyed during my stay. Wednesday Dinner- Took my coworker out to Good Dog Bar, a place I've tried to share with as many out-of-towners as I can. She got the Duck Pot Pie and I bit the Roast Chicken. The duck PP was outrageously hot, had very tasty crust and nice depth of flavor. The roast chicken was a simple but satisfying dish. The skin was crispy and the interior was moist. Maybe I've been away from Philly too long but the beer list was impressive too--The Lost Abbey Carnevale Saison (a style easily that's half-assed) was interesting and quaffable. The Dark Horse Stout had fantastic roasty/coffee notes and a body that wasn't too thick. FYI Wednesdays are half price can night and they have a great collection of Sly Fox cans. Thursday Lunch- Ran across the street to the Reading Terminal Market (RTM) and got a Lamb shawarma sandwich from Kamal's. The fries were fine but the sandwich was poor. The tomatoes were tasteless and the lamb was dry and chewy. The librarians sitting to my right and discussing the current line-up on SyFy were entertaining though. Thursday Dinner- My buddy Ant and I used his manager discount at Barbuzzo. This was my second time and I was far more impressed this go around. The sheep's milk ricotta was sublime--texture was perfectly creamy and the vin cotto had just enough bite (mouth is currently salivating). The cheese and charcuterie was interesting and varied--the homemade apricot mustard was a great touch. Salame Toscano and the young honey goat's cheese were definite standouts. Next up was wood roasted Portugese sardines and pacherra pasta. These were slightly better as read on the menu, but pleasing items nonetheless. The sardines were touch too crispy but the classic combo of preserved lemon, fennel and olives worked well. The pacherra was light on the pork ragout but as good a homemade pasta I've had in a long time. And finally the flight of victory beers I had--braumeister pils, headwaters pale ale, scarlet fire rauchbier, and st. boisterous hellerbock--were fantastic. Hellerbock=carbonated campfire in mouth. Friday Lunch- Another bite from the RTM, this time a chicken korma platter from Nanee's Indian/Pakistani kitchen. Butter chicken was rich and the garlic spinach was a great side. Saturday Brunch- After visiting a couple friends moving into the area we went to Pub and Kitchen, a former haunt in the graduate hospital area that occupies the small niche of gastropubs that actually bring the thunder with more than decor. The Welsh Rarebit was a strange starter, it confused my taste buds into thinking I was eating peanut butter at times. The girl's burger with mushroom duxelle was very tasty and cooked exactly to temperature, if served slightly cool. My smoked trout omelette was very fluffy (see recent DR thread treating the difficulty of making the perfect omelette at home). I wish the fried scallop potatoes came with something other than a bottle of Heinz for dressing though. I also could have used a screen on the straw of my wrangler drink (fancy bloody mary with tons of shaved horseradish). The honey whiskey wings here are awesome, the wine list is thoughtful, but the beer list is disappointing. Done. Saturday Dinner- Grabbed a sandwich from Souvlaki on South Street between the Phils game and meeting up with friends. This is a great choice for a take-out gyro sandwich. My favorite is the kefta kabob, I believe they make it with lamb and beef and as always it's packed with spices (the dried mint was particularly powerful). They gave me two by accident so one of those went to my favorite bartender in olde city (aka the only person I like in olde city). Sunday Brunch- New Wave Cafe in Queen Village. Not an ambitious place but a solid neighborhood joint. Their menu is inconsistent in hell--in presentation and in taste--but my chicken italiano sandwich really hit the spot. After some coffee at the Java Company we hit the road. I left off our Friday night dinner at Bibou BYOB because they deserve their own write-up..

Typical of Alan Richman this piece seemed chuck full of opinions and short on real analysis. There was a critical juncture when he mentioned how "commodities" are being defined but he really failed to seize the paradigm. Ethics are the commodity for many people---ok--but ethics are also consumable. Richman is on the right path when he goes into the simple skills of cooking--especially ironic given Bourdain's championing of this very skill set and their animus towards one another--but he never characterizes it as a natural evolution. As you prepare ingredients you appreciate how fresh they are. As you appreciate how fresh they are you understand where they came from. Once you grasp where they came from you can weigh the decisions that went into that process (see capitalism 101). I find it telling that Richman never tackles the corn industry--that's for poor people. We gourmands simply need to ascertain whether our tuna belly is the barbarous (read authentic) kind, or the substitute (real ethical yet equally damned) kind.

It's really hard to read Tom's chat.. Roughly 70% fo the questions can be translated to "Hi, I have no research skills and wouldn't know where to begin looking for the names, styles, and calibres of restaurants I'd like to eat at. Tom you're like a glorified concierge right? I'd like a nice romantic restaurant that doesn't break the bank, can you help me out?" As my only real point of comparison, Craig LaBan of the Philly Inq explicitly says "Do not ask me concierge like questions" in the intro to his online chat..

We appreciate your opinions and we'll pass along your input to the chef.

Yeah those were some old money weirdos. Ever read A Small Place by Jamaica Kincaid? I highly doubt the producers did..

The girl is pulling for Mike because of his boys-boy affability and underdog status but I've gotta go with the over-analyzing, neurotic, but incredibly talented Richard. There's probably some kind of psychological profiling someone could do depending on who you're rooting for...

I do think there are a couple amplifying factors with yelp today in DC. One, that smartphones have completely hit their stride and lend apps/websites like Yelp a lot of power because of their ease of use (and if there's a smartphone USA it's here). Two, DC is a transient town so many people don't develop the same kind of context/perspective that long-time residents enjoy--i.e. they're perpetually consulting get-info-quick-type sources like Yelp.

Yeah I bet we see an explosion of activity on Graffiato after this season concludes. Bravo/Topchef must have some kind of gag order in effect. I bet the contracts they have the "cheftestants" sign would be fascinating reading.

Hard to group together my thoughts about last night's episode so here they are one by one-- The quickfire was moronic. They aren't magicians, you give them awful ingredients and they're going to make something creative...and awful. The eliminiation challenge was great. Everyone looked comfortable, cooking something they wanted to cook in a well stocked kitchen. Dunno why they have to always make it so difficult... Almost had a heartattack when they called Blais' name. Bravo obviously realizes he's now the runaway favorite and wants to add a little suspense. Blais is alternately coming across as humble and a judgemental a-hole. He's definitely a lot more competitive than he says he is. I can't be on board with no one being eliminated.. They shoulda chopped both of them instead.

Eating less meat, particularly less corn-fed beef and chicken, would go a long way. And those who live under the poverty line don't do so because of the cost of food but rather the political cost of say... not subsidizing cash crops.