Farmers Fishers Bakers (formerly Agraria, etc.) - Chef Joe Coetze Also Works With Founding Farmers

[brendanc]

While sitting on the fence in terms of reviews and critics and not spouting off about the propensity of blogging and posting and how they can or can't affect a restaurant I can say this: When a restaurant opens the ideal would be to open with everything perfect, guess what, it has never happened. When Agraria opened to the public it needed to open; rent, salaries, health insurance and people who count on the bsiness as their livelihood needed to be paid. By walking into the space you can see that the restaurant was not an under-capitalized venture but you cannot live "on the dole" indefinitely, ownership and the operators have a responsibility to provide service to the public to generate income to keep the restaurant moving and fulfill the promise to their investors. Foreasmuch as we wish that everything go perfectly, often it will not.

I think David's issue(forgive my speculation) hinged solely on the endorsement of not returning and advising others to do the same, I tend to agree with David. The limitations of individual's budgets preclude them from returning to a restaurant multiple times before "reviewing" it, but an individual's "review" should be read with that in mind, it is not law or fact, merely an impression of one individual.

An old chef/mentor of mine once told me that a review however large or small, positive or negative is only given as much credence as you the chef/server/manager allow.

In David's dsefense, although strongly worded, he did present legitimate and logical challenges to someone's post, insert heat/kitchen cliche here.

[ustreetguy]

The Aviation Cocktail. Gin, fresh lemon juice, and Luxardo Maraschino liqueur (does anyone else even carry this anymore?). It's bracing and tart and cuts nicely through this summer humidity. Thanks Derek for the recommendation! I don't think it's on the menu, but ask them to make you one anyway.

By the way, as some people have already mentioned the burger there's not bad! It's a generously-sized paddy topped with red pepper coulis(?) and field greens. At $13, it may be a tad more expensive than Palena's burger and not as meaty in flavor, but at least you don't have to order the fries separately.

[johnb]

and second, mr. hagedorn, please bring back trumpets, you ass.

This is one of the most insightful, useful, and appropriate comments to appear in this thread so far.

Translation: David, I won't comment on your skills as a literary critic, but you're one hell of a restauranteur and cook, so why not have at it once again? Forget that DG phase--it was just a passing thing.

[Mark Slater]

The Aviation Cocktail. Gin, fresh lemon juice, and Luxardo Maraschino liqueur (does anyone else even carry this anymore?). It's bracing and tart and cuts nicely through this summer humidity. Thanks Derek for the recommendation! I don't think it's on the menu, but ask them to make you one anyway.

By the way, as some people have already mentioned the burger there's not bad! It's a generously-sized paddy topped with red pepper coulis(?) and field greens. At $13, it may be a tad more expensive than Palena's burger and not as meaty in flavor, but at least you don't have to order the fries separately.

Hey, Larry! I saw you there that night. I had an Aviation to start, also. I've had the burger before and couldn't fault it. This night we just had charcuterie and 2 cocktails + a bottle of wine. Comfy place. Thanks again, Derek.

[heatherc]

ok, so this is my first post EVER....i know, unbelieveable. i must be inspired by the memory of Derek's chrysanthemum tea/rum/honey cocktail. anyway, i'll be back for drinks and definitely some grub when ricky arrives. Thanks for the tour D.

[tenunda]

ok, so this is my first post EVER....i know, unbelieveable. i must be inspired by the memory of Derek's chrysanthemum tea/rum/honey cocktail. anyway, i'll be back for drinks and definitely some grub when ricky arrives. Thanks for the tour D.

welcome to the board! now we can all look forward to you bringing dessert to the next DR.com picnic...

[heatherc]

welcome to the board! now we can all look forward to you bringing dessert to the next DR.com picnic...

i'll do my best to accomodate.

[mo2000]

I dont understand how they are still open!

the waiter was awful, didnt know the food or the drinks

took 20 mins for a bottle of water not includ. the 20 mins it took to take the order

now we have been here twice since we live near by never again! too expensive for the service and menu, now dont get me wrong the food was not great but not bad considering there was no Exec Chef

we had scallops and the greens that were in the middle were so good, i had to look at the menu again on the way out to know what it was since the server didnt know when i asked and i couldnt remember

lambs quarter? googled it and found out its an edible weed

our shrimp app and carpaccio beat the bread and water to the table.

the bar drinks were GREAT!!!!!!!!!! kudos to the bar manager

the bread pudding was yummy

i am usually pretty nice to new places but this was a mess. they have been open for a while now

our table cloth was on backwards tag and hem looking at me in the face but it went well with our dirty glasses

is there no manager either there for training

how hard is it to train the front of house? they really should hire someone to manage, but i saw at least 4 people dressed like managers there, what do they do if no one is training

again the food was good scallops great, drinks amazing! when it got there but service blows and that is the first impression i got.

side note a friend of a friend tried to book a party there and they couldnt even answer the phone right, the catering person couldnt email menus correctly, i dont think she knew how to attach a file, hahaha!

after several chances, he got so pissed off that he booked it at clydes

hope they pull it together the space is huge and must be expensive to rent for nothing

i hope i find out where the bar manager, chef and pastry chef go afer they close down. you cant stay in business with the front service so bad

[Banco]

I knew Agraria would be a hang-out for poets.

[giant shrimp]

I knew Agraria would be a hang-out for poets.

i know

i'll be there

soon looking

for cocktails

and the best

fresh dug

potatoes

this side

of the dakotas.

[mtpleasanteater]

NY Times article here.

[DonRocks]

i know

i'll be there

soon looking

for cocktails

Sooner is better than later.

[Barbara]

NY Times article here.

I would like someone to reassure me that the situation isn't as ominous as this article implies it is.

[sunshine]

I attended one of Agraria's "soft opening" events and thought it had lots of promise. I thought the bar and bartenders were top notch - best Sidecar I've ever had. The appetizers they served were pretty good. I've been waiting for the exec chef to come in and finalize a menu before I go back. I really want to support the Farmers Union and the restaurant's concept, but I hope that the place isn't going to be geared only to high end lobbyists like the NY Times article insinuates. If this is their market and mission, they are bound to fail. DC Politics and restaurants shouldn't mix, i.e., Abramoff and Signatures. Good food and drink should be their primary mission. If they do this well, they'll get my business.

[Michael Landrum]

our table cloth was on backwards tag and hem looking at me in the face

I have prepared torches and stones. I say we march TONIGHT!!! Burn, Agraria, burn!

[Jlock]

I think Agraria is demonstrating that a restaurant is all about its people. You need good people that really care about what they're doing (at all levels) in order to have a good restaurant.

The positive things about Agraria up to this point (delicious and innovative drinks, friendly and knowledgeable bar service, great desserts, and an incredible physical space/setting) are due to the people that are/were in place to provide those things from the beginning (the bar staff/management, the pastry chef, and the architects that designed the space).

What it is lacking, in my opinion, are the rest of the "people" that are needed to pull the whole thing off (the managers, the wait staff - or at least the management in-place to adequately train the wait staff, and most importantly - the chef!)

If you're only fielding half a team, expect to have a pretty bad season...

[Michael Landrum]

From the article:

“If he thinks amateurs are involved, they are the ones who chose him, so that’s saying something very interesting about himself,” Mr. Prescott said.

Nothing, nothing, is more professional, or more invincible, than the devastating, withering, timeless "I'm rubber and you are glue" retort. Except, perhaps, the epistemologically provocative "I know you are, but what am I?" Think twice before matching wits with this Mr. Prescott. You do so at your own peril.

Derek, oh Derek, after reading this Circus of the Absurd with its Scary Clown (and not the good Scary Clowns who offer you candy and then take your picture, but the other kind) Ringmasters that is this thread I need your cocktails more than ever. Are multiple cups still available?

[Barbara]

From the article:

“If he thinks amateurs are involved, they are the ones who chose him, so that’s saying something very interesting about himself,” Mr. Prescott said.

This is EXACTLY the quote that set my internal antenna vibrating wildly. And, it says far more about Mr. Prescott than about the former chef.

Can Derek make an Espresso Martini? Inquiring, and deprived--no, not deprAved--minds want to know.

[bookluvingbabe]

This is EXACTLY the quote that set my internal antenna vibrating wildly. And, it says far more about Mr. Prescott than about the former chef.

Can Derek make an Espresso Martini? Inquiring, and deprived--no, not deprAved--minds want to know.

I believe he can. It was on the menu at Palena when he was there and I seem to recall that he credited Kelly with teaching him how to make one.

Jennifer

[derekmbrown]

I believe he can. It was on the menu at Palena when he was there and I seem to recall that he credited Kelly with teaching him how to make one.

Jennifer

It's all true. Kelli taught me how to make the Espresso Martini. Use Kalhua Especial and, my latest addition, cold pressed coffee instead of heat pressed or cooling down freshly made espresso. Cold press intensifies the coffee flavor notes and doesn't melt the ice. Call the night before!

Derek

[bilrus]

Derek, oh Derek, after reading this Circus of the Absurd with its Scary Clown (and not the good Scary Clowns who offer you candy and then take your picture, but the other kind) Ringmasters that is this thread I need your cocktails more than ever. Are multiple cups still available?

Michael - You're just happy that another place is vying for the hot button, love it / hate it crown that you've worn so admirably for the past few years.

[Anna Blume]

I am trying to understand the significance of this restaurant in light of Omnivore's Dilemma and a number of related, recent publications that have been getting attention.*

Here's the restaurant's letter to D.C. lobbyists

on their web site

I am still not sure what owners of small family farms in North Dakota are trying to do with Agraria.

Do they believe that small family farms simply need to assert their presence in Washington because of the threat big agribusiness poses to their existence? Or do they feel that corporate farms get too large a share of federal dollars and wish to gain their fair share of subsidies?

Why North Dakota alone--as opposed to a unified group of family farms from different states?

This is about advocating local foods, right? So whose "local" is being represented on the menu and how far will it be shipped? How is the restaurant distinguishing itself from the other restaurants already in this area that feature local foods? By virtue of its sponsorship and direct political appeals?

*E.g. Organic, Inc. by Sam Fromartz. The New Yorker reviewed OD & OI together. The exchange of open letters between Michael Pollan (OD) and John Mackey of Whole Foods is worth reading, too.

[DLB]

I am trying to understand the significance of this restaurant in light of Omnivore's Dilemma and a number of related, recent publications that have been getting attention.*

Here's the restaurant's letter to D.C. lobbyists

on their web site

I am still not sure what owners of small family farms in North Dakota are trying to do with Agraria.

Do they believe that small family farms simply need to assert their presence in Washington because of the threat big agribusiness poses to their existence? Or do they feel that corporate farms get too large a share of federal dollars and wish to gain their fair share of subsidies?

Why North Dakota alone--as opposed to a unified group of family farms from different states?

This is about advocating local foods, right? So whose "local" is being represented on the menu and how far will it be shipped? How is the restaurant distinguishing itself from the other restaurants already in this area that feature local foods? By virtue of its sponsorship and direct political appeals?

*E.g. Organic, Inc. by Sam Fromartz. The New Yorker reviewed OD & OI together. The exchange of open letters between Michael Pollan (OD) and John Mackey of Whole Foods is worth reading, too.

Very good points.

[Anna Blume]

Anyone know more? Or have a stronger understanding of goals expressed?

I haven't been there, so maybe someone who has...

[Bruce Anderson]

Anyone know more? Or have a stronger understanding of goals expressed?

I haven't been there, so maybe someone who has...

My name is Bruce and I am a wheat farmer from North Dakota who invested in Agraria Restaurant. I would like to assure you that our goals are really quite simple; it's not about politics, not about lobbyists, it's about trying to run a business that makes money and adds value to the food that we grow. If at the same time and in some small way we can tell a story about American agriculture and acquaint restaurant consumers with American farmers, then we have succeeded.

As a farmer I invest (risk) tens of thousands of dollars every year putting a crop in the ground with no guarantee of profit so it wasn't much of a stretch for me to invest (risk) a few thousand dollars in a business venture that deals with the products that I grow.

Farmers have been investing in businesses that process and package their products for years (albeit not a restaurant in DC). Most of these businesses are cooperatives, some have become national brands: Ocean Spray, Welch’s, Land o’ Lakes to name a few. Some have become large in their respective product lines but package mostly for other brands: Dakota Growers Pasta, Ventura Foods (margarines and dressings). North Dakota farmers, particularly, have invested in many ideas to add value to their farming business, some quite successful, some, well, not so much.

Anna, you linked to an article on Agraria’s web site and suggested that it was the restaurant’s letter to DC lobbyists. It was not Agraria’s letter; it was one of several newspaper articles that were listed on the “in the news” page. The one listed just below the one you referenced may give you a more complete picture. I would also like to direct you to the article and audio from NPR.

I was in DC on business in early June and was able to attend the opening event. I have family that live in the DC area and my wife and I were out there last weekend. We ate at our restaurant. I am quite proud of what we have started and I, naturally, hope it is hugely successful. My thanks to the members of dr.com who hope for the same.

Bruce

[giant shrimp]

Anna, you linked to an article on Agraria’s web site and suggested that it was the restaurant’s letter to DC lobbyists. It was not Agraria’s letter; it was one of several newspaper articles that were listed on the “in the news” page.

if i were a farmer from north dakota and i had a stake in agraria, this is not an article i would want to see posted on the restaurant's web site.

[Camille-Beau]

My name is Bruce and I am a wheat farmer from North Dakota who invested in Agraria Restaurant.

Bruce, welcome to donrockwell.com! We all hope that this new venture works out very well for the investors in the restaurant, particularly the farmers. Best of luck to you.

-Camille

[bookluvingbabe]

if i were a farmer from north dakota and i had a stake in agraria, this is not an article i would want to see posted on the restaurant's web site.

Perhaps all publicity is good publicity in their book???

[giant shrimp]

Perhaps all publicity is good publicity in their book???

maybe they just skimmed.

[Anna Blume]

My name is Bruce and I am a wheat farmer from North Dakota who invested in Agraria Restaurant. I would like to assure you that our goals are really quite simple; it's not about politics, not about lobbyists, it's about trying to run a business that makes money and adds value to the food that we grow. If at the same time and in some small way we can tell a story about American agriculture and acquaint restaurant consumers with American farmers, then we have succeeded.

Anna, you linked to an article on Agraria’s web site and suggested that it was the restaurant’s letter to DC lobbyists. It was not Agraria’s letter; it was one of several newspaper articles that were listed on the “in the news” page. The one listed just below the one you referenced may give you a more complete picture. I would also like to direct you to the article and audio from NPR.

Bruce

Bruce, my apologies. I saw only the bold print of the title and not what was quite obvious after your post: the notice indicating sources & inviting potential patrons to consult recent stories in the media concerning Agraria.

First, let me say I support local farmers, I volunteer at one of our area's markets and was quite shocked to hear from one of the market's more politically saavy employees that the US Census Bureau no longer lists "Farming" as an occupation on its surveys (I haven't verified his statement) due to the alarming rate by which the number of farms is falling, and the alternative livings children raised on farms seek after they leave school.

However, convinced that all politics are not evil and that strategies are useful, I find it difficult to believe that opening Agraria in Washington, D.C. is not a political act. Surely North Dakota is saying something to the nation from the seat of the federal government. It doesn't seem to be here just to augment the number of national museums and monuments honoring American culture.

I think it's great that you are able to provide insights as one of the farmers and investors. As you can see from the board, DR members have been pleased by their experiences at the restaurant.

Is the principal goal merely to increase awareness of the direct relationship between eating and agriculture as Wendell Berry would say? When a diner goes to the restaurant, how are didactic purposes of the restaurant--if you believe there are any--conveyed?

Why North Dakota? Why here? How does the food you serve relate to North Dakota? To local farms?

[Miami Danny]

Perhaps all publicity is good publicity in their book???

I think the Times article is very positive. And it is obviously not 'a letter' to lobbyists, that is simply the Times articles' headline. I mean, read the darn thing! Yes, the chef left. That's odd, because chefs are never mercurial and investors/owners are never impatient! Apparently, some pretty good people are pretty confident in the investors/mgmt, because they've staked their careers on Agraria-I'm thinking of DR's Derek.

Also, it's not just a 'concept' to these guys (the farmers). They grow stuff. And they want to feed it to you.

[mdt]

I think the Times article is very positive. And it is obviously not 'a letter' to lobbyists, that is simply the Times articles' headline. I mean, read the darn thing! Yes, the chef left. That's odd, because chefs are never mercurial and investors/owners are never impatient! Apparently, some pretty good people are pretty confident in the investors/mgmt, because they've staked their careers on Agraria-I'm thinking of DR's Derek.

Also, it's not just a 'concept' to these guys (the farmers). They grow stuff. And they want to feed it to you.

I agree. I reread the article and was trying to figure out what was negative, minus the insignificant little jabbing that others pointed out.

[ol_ironstomach]

When a diner goes to the restaurant, how are didactic purposes of the restaurant--if you believe there are any--conveyed?

Why North Dakota? Why here? How does the food you serve relate to North Dakota? To local farms?

Some of these questions have already been answered in the various news clippings linked to both here and on Agraria's website. Among their stated reasons for being, the two that stand out in my mind are the emphasis on using only small-producer suppliers, and the elimination of several layers of middlemen who would otherwise aggregate, warehouse and transport ingredients. I believe the theory is that the diner will benefit from fresher, superior-quality ingredients, and the farmer benefits by taking home a higher percentage of the final fine dining revenues. Whether this model actually works remains to be seen.

I know we shouldn't judge a work-in-progress based on unreleased fragments, but speaking to didacticism, the preview menu we saw prior to the restaurant's opening was surprisingly devoid of references to the small-producer origins of the ingredients. I really expected to find a dreary, heavily trademarked, over-detailed explanation of the ingredients in each dish, but it simply wasn't there. One item, the chicken, had a brand name without further explanation. Nothing screamed "made in North Dakota", not even the red meats!

It seems to me that to serve as a vehicle for their message, it has to be communicated on the menu that this is something special that cannot be duplicated with factory foods, but without over-commercializing the message. Moreover, the entire concept is utterly dependent on a kitchen and menu that are able to express the finest attributes of these ingredients. Touting the food's origins and then presenting a ho-hum dish would be counter-productive, so Chef Moore has quite a task set before him, and I'm eager to see what he comes up with. I don't know whether the subtlety of the prototype menu was due to incompleteness, an intentional soft-pedal of the message, a lack of confidence in the original menu, or some other reason. But like Anna, I am curious to hear how Agraria plans to tell their small-producer story to the typical diner wandering in from the Georgetown waterfront, if in fact they do.

[sunshine]

I think the Times article is very positive. And it is obviously not 'a letter' to lobbyists, that is simply the Times articles' headline. I mean, read the darn thing! Yes, the chef left. That's odd, because chefs are never mercurial and investors/owners are never impatient! Apparently, some pretty good people are pretty confident in the investors/mgmt, because they've staked their careers on Agraria-I'm thinking of DR's Derek.

Also, it's not just a 'concept' to these guys (the farmers). They grow stuff. And they want to feed it to you.

Yeah, I think the Times headline does a disservice to Agraria - any restaurant connection to lobbyists is bad news in my opinion, and the angle on the management, Mr. Prescott (former Mortons corporate manager), wasn't very flattering either. I'm glad Bruce chimed in, and when Chef Moore gets there, I'll eagerly want to eat the food produced by people like Bruce. I just hope they showcase the food (the drinks are already in good hands with Derek and the bar folk) and tell me where it's from. A restaurant that can educate people about the connections between land, the people who work the land and the food we take for granted - now that's a concept!

[Bruce Anderson]

However, convinced that all politics are not evil and that strategies are useful, I find it difficult to believe that opening Agraria in Washington, D.C. is not a political act. Surely North Dakota is saying something to the nation from the seat of the federal government. It doesn't seem to be here just to augment the number of national museums and monuments honoring American culture.

I think it's great that you are able to provide insights as one of the farmers and investors. As you can see from the board, DR members have been pleased by their experiences at the restaurant.

Is the principal goal merely to increase awareness of the direct relationship between eating and agriculture as Wendell Berry would say? When a diner goes to the restaurant, how are didactic purposes of the restaurant--if you believe there are any--conveyed?

Why North Dakota? Why here? How does the food you serve relate to North Dakota? To local farms?

I am a political person and I agree that, “all politics are not evil and that strategies are useful”, but I would have to say that if we gain anything politically from opening the Agraria Restaurant in Washington DC that it is merely a side benefit. The principle strategy for choosing the DC location, over other cities considered, was economic. DC as the seat of government is pretty much recession proof. There will always be large numbers of people looking to eat at a high end restaurant.

Having said that, I must explain that although, as an active member of the North Dakota Farmers Union I am friends with the people who conceived of and shepherded the project, I was not one of the principals, so I am not privy to any strategy other than the one I just stated.

Having had the pleasure of hearing Wendell Berry in person, twice, I appreciate your inclusion of a part of one of his works. Number 4 in his list – “Whenever possible, deal directly with a local farmer, gardener, or orchardist … by such dealing you eliminate the whole pack of merchants, transporters, processors, packagers and advertisers who thrive at the expense of both producers and consumers.” – comes close to describing what I feel is the reason behind our principle strategy, which is economic.

The telling of our story to diners is subtle, in the décor, and on the menu. I expect that when the new chef has created a complete menu that there will be ever changing opportunities to feature an individual farm family and the food item that was created from their labor.

Why North Dakota? I could probably go on at length. ND has a populist heritage. ND has more Cooperatives than most other states. It’s our culture. The ND Farmers Union is a progressive organization that believes in the family farm, in Cooperatives and, yes, in the political process – so some of our members will travel to DC and will appreciate the ability to dine at their own restaurant.

ND farmers grow: Beef, Potatoes, Sugar Beets; we are the nations largest producers of Spring Wheat for bread flower and Durum Wheat for Pasta – the list goes on. We don’t raise shrimp or scallops but the restaurant sources those from family fishers. Will I, as a Wheat and Durum grower, see a higher price for my grain because of this restaurant? No, but I do hope to realize a return on my investment. And I can imagine that when raspberries are in season, Pattie, who grows wonderful raspberries in ND, could be one of those featured farmers. And farmers like her may be able to realize greater returns when the consumer is able to deal, as Mr. Berry said, with a local farmer.

Bruce

[DonRocks]

Does anyone besides me feel like they're smack dab in the middle of a Tarkovsky film?

I don't mean watching it; I mean in it.

[mame11]

Does anyone besides me feel like they're smack dab in the middle of a Tarkovsky film?

I don't mean watching it; I mean in it.

Haven't seen his films, haven't been to the restaurant and haven't been following this thread. Read the article. My impression is that the first chef looks like a jerk, I have a very negative impression of him. The restaurant seems legit and I look forward to going when the chef arrives.

Shame that an article like that gets out.

Nancy

[Banco]

Bruce, just a short note to say that I've enjoyed reading your informative posts on this thread. I look forward to putting Agraria through its paces once it is firing on all pistons.

[Nadya]

Quality time clocked at Agraria bar last night. Very handsome space, beautiful bar counter. Lovely drinks, attentive and heart-warming service.

When hunger struck, the following conversation was had with a bartender:

"If I order a burger, will they fuck it up?"

"It should be good."

Discuss.

[Jacques Gastreaux]

Quality time clocked at Agraria bar last night. Very handsome space, beautiful bar counter. Lovely drinks, attentive and heart-warming service.

When hunger struck, the following conversation was had with a bartender:

"If I order a burger, will they fuck it up?"

"It should be good."

Discuss.

I would have responded "ma'am, they'll fix it any way you like."

[Lydia R]

I saw only the bold print of the title and not what was quite obvious after your post: the notice indicating sources & inviting potential patrons to consult recent stories in the media concerning Agraria.

It's a bit hard to tell the source of the articles from the way they're set out on Agraria's web site.

Today's City Paper has an article by our own Anne Marson with the subtitle "Is it possible to run an restaurant supplied by almost entirely by American family farms? Agraria's giving it a try."

Sounds like Agraria has a business plan for serious branding and expansion, but "the longest journey begins with the first step..."

[jparrott]

Agraria's bar is now open through the day, and there are about a million wireless networks you can hit from it.

[bookluvingbabe]

Agraria's bar is now open through the day, and there are about a million wireless networks you can hit from it.

But are they serving food during the day?????????????

[jparrott]

Just asked the bartender. Indeed they are.

[shogun]

We are currently looking for a FOH Manager/Sommelier.

[mdt]

No it is more like .

[shogun]

Something happen?

[Jacques Gastreaux]

Agraria-->

[MelGold]

"My! People come and go so quickly here!"

[jparrott]

Is this confirmed? Remember Agraria is now open all day, every day. They need a second person that can at least sell wine/maintain the stash unless Derek wants to do fourteen doubles a week. And it's perfectly normal for a restaurant to double up sommelier and manager duties.