Montreal, Quebec

[AlexC]

Rocks & Co,

I'm putting together a bachelor party for 15-20 people, scheduled for Labor Day 2006. The destination is Montreal and the prospect is a little overwhelming.

I'll need to come up with places for at least two group dinners and a brunch on Sunday. I would prefer to find private rooms and prix fixe menus, so we can monitor costs better and not mortify the locals. I don't really know where to begin.

Any help is welcome, even if it's simply a good place to do some research. Also, feel free to PM me with any activity suggestions.

Merci.

Alex

[CrescentFresh]

Rocks & Co,

I'm putting together a bachelor party for 15-20 people, scheduled for Labor Day 2006. The destination is Montreal and the prospect is a little overwhelming.

I'll need to come up with places for at least two group dinners and a brunch on Sunday. I would prefer to find private rooms and prix fixe menus, so we can monitor costs better and not mortify the locals. I don't really know where to begin.

Any help is welcome, even if it's simply a good place to do some research. Also, feel free to PM me with any activity suggestions.

Merci.

Alex

What are the ranges of costs you're looking to monitor? There are a couple places I'd recommend, that I've gone to for both bachelor parties and just because I think they're fine food. How firm are you on prix fixe and private room? And are you thinking of fine dining or just great food and a good time? Frankly, I'd send you to the equivalent of Ray's the Steaks. Le Roi du Plateau is one of my all time favorites. Consistently good over the last ten years, almost, that I've been going there. Fantastic food off the grill, decent affordable wines, no decor to speak of, and great prices. You'd never go wrong there.

[MODWOP]

For brunch, especially for a tired Bachelor Party bunch, you might just want to consider "Eggspectation", with a couple of locations in downtown and the old town. The one at de Maisonneuve and Montagne will probably be your best bet unless you're staying way up the Plateau. Yes, it's a chain, but they don't mess up your basic brunch selections, have a big enough floor plan to deal with your party, and have a large bar selection for hair o'the dog. Reasonable, as well.

For dinners, La Sila on Rue St. Denis used to be very reliable Italian with a good wine list and the capacity for groups.....unfortunately haven't been in a few years and I heard they changed hands, so a little investigating might be in order.

Also, you may want to try a trio of restaurants owned by the same group - Primadonna, Med Grill, and Sofia, all located on "The Main"/Rue St. Laurent and all on OpenTable.com reservations system, I think. They're presented as trendy/hip, with often something-for-everyone menus (Primadonna is Italian&Sushi!?!) and I KNOW they can handle groups, because some of the Formula One teams have group dinners there during the Canadian Grand Prix in June. Of course, don't know if the "scenery" (beautiful young ladies) is as good when the F1 drivers aren't there!

[StephenB]

Rocks & Co,

I'm putting together a bachelor party for 15-20 people, scheduled for Labor Day 2006. The destination is Montreal and the prospect is a little overwhelming.

I'll need to come up with places for at least two group dinners and a brunch on Sunday. I would prefer to find private rooms and prix fixe menus, so we can monitor costs better and not mortify the locals. I don't really know where to begin.

Any help is welcome, even if it's simply a good place to do some research. Also, feel free to PM me with any activity suggestions.

Merci.

Alex

I organized something similar Summer 2004 for 17 people. Our major banquet was at L'Auberge Le Saint-Gabriel, which is the oldest inn in North America and is located in the old part of town, Vielle Montréal.. The highlights of that meal were venison and ice wine. I can provide the full menu if you like. In smaller groups, we also ate at Le Brunoise, which is charming, delicious and run by youngsters. I liked that place a lot. Also Café Yoyo, which has good food and a BYOB policy. Also Toqué, the height of elegance, very expensive, worth it. Schwartz's Hebrew Deli, fantastic smoked meat and a friendly atmosphere. Au Pied de Cochon, high energy, crowded, a unique menu, a place where it is easy to meet your fellow diners. For Sunday brunch, I recommend the dining room at Hotel Sofitel, an exquisite room, great service and carefully prepared dishes.

People are quite happy to speak to you in English once they find out you're not Canadian.

I arranged group rates at Sofitel and the Marriott.

More on request.

[gnatharobed]

I would skip eggspectations for brunch since there is a branch in Silver Spring. For something more uniquely montreal, try l'avenue which is on Mont-Royal. Hot waitresses can be found at Globe and Buona Notte both on St. Laurent but Toque would have much better food.

[jm chen]

Schwartz's Hebrew Deli, fantastic smoked meat and a friendly atmosphere. 

Oh yes. You must make a trek to Chez Schwartz. Not great for an organized group, but grab a smoked meat sandwich Saturday afternoon if you can, to fortify yourselves for the madness ahead.

[giant shrimp]

i don't know how much privacy it affords, but au pied de cochon sure looked good the other night on the travel network when chef martin picard put anthony bourdain on a foie gras bender, including foie gras cooked in a can. i haven't been up there for a few years, but i now want to go as soon as possible to investigate this restaurant. (i see no need to rush up to far north quebec, however, where mr. bourdain sat down on the kitchen floor with an extended family of natives to devour a raw seal like a pack of cannibals, including sucking out the eyeball, although the scene did have the look of authentic cuisine. he also visited a maple syrup farmer, who eats it with everything, exhibitng how the locals get bent by the harsh winters. i have gone as far as the roads run out, a tedious drive in every respect, the food no exception.)

[ChefJeff]

Oh yes. You must make a trek to Chez Schwartz. Not great for an organized group, but grab a smoked meat sandwich Saturday afternoon if you can, to fortify yourselves for the madness ahead.

I did my batchelors party in Montreal last Memorial Day, I'd highly recommend Schwartz's deli for a late night meal, the only problem is that it will foreveer ruin you for good Pastrami (What the Canadians call Smoked Meat), It's the best I've found. Mr. Ma's Chinese restaurant is also outstanding. I recommend a stop at the Casino Montereal as well, we won enough to pay for our other stops that night!

[Joe H]

Schwartz's also has really good french fries and is the source for the seasoning mix which McCormick's sells as "Montreal Steak Seasoning." Yes, they sell their's, too, and it is superior to McCormick's. At Schwart'z they use this seasoning on cheap cuts of meat and they still taste good. Also, Montreal sour dills are arguably the best pickles on earth-I prefer them to Guss' in New York. Mother's is a good brand if you go into a grocery store. Last, don't discount bagels in Montreal.

An area called "Old Montreal" has a great deal of atmosphere and is well worth seeking out. On St. Catherine's street, near St. Hubert, is a place (I haven't been in about three or four years) called d'Giovanni's which has fantastic Quebec style spaghetti. This means about 20 different versions of it including the one which has mozzarella cheese melted on top of spaghetti with meat sauce and meat balls.

Unbelievably fattening! Disgustingly good.

Montreal also has French food that may be the best in North America.

[DLB]

The wife and I will be driving up at the end of July for about a week. We are staying in the old city, and would like to know it there are any "must eat" places in Montreal. I already made a reservation at Brunoise, and will most likely be trying the following. Does anyone have any other suggestions or comments on these places. Thanks

Joe Beef

Au Pied de Cochon

Brunoise

[Dr. Delicious]

Forget all that. Go to Peel Pub, where you can get a hotdog platter for 2.95, and where they know how to serve their beer -- in giant pitchers attached to beautiful women. Then take all the money you saved and spend it on lap dances. This seemed to work for the many bachelor parties I've gone to in Montreal.

[zoramargolis]

I just returned from a four-day trip to Montreal. Stayed in a small B&B (called Boulanger Bassin) near Parc Lafontaine where amazing breakfasts were served every day by the owner--coffee, juice, fruit smoothies, freshly baked croissant or pan chocolat (he gets frozen dough from a baker friend and proofs and bakes them himself), fresh fruit, yogurt-granola-fresh berries and maple syrup, croque monsieur; fresh bagel, lox, cream cheese.

Montreal is a city of food-lovers. Zillions of restaurants, bistros, and coffee houses, and all were packed with people.

We had two great restaurant dinners--one at Au Pied du Cochon, where Jonathan had one of their amazing seafood platters (he had the smallest one-level platter with all manner of oysters, clams, scallops, mussels, periwinkles, crab, which was $45--the largest, five level which must be eaten standing up in order to reach it all, with all manner of shellfish, shrimps, crabs and lobsters goes for over $300--it could easily feed six. It was served on crushed ice with a choice of herbed butter, herb mayonnaise, and spicy mignonette. I had seared foie gras served on a buckwheat blini, with potato, cheese curds, smoky bacon and maple syrup. I couldn't quite pull the trigger on poutine with foie gras (poutine is the local kids' junk food favorite--it's french fries topped with cheese curds and brown gravy). They didn't have foie gras cooked in a can, but there was duck cooked like that. Many fascinating dishes-- many different presentations of pork, duck, foie gras and fresh seafood in equal numbers. Packed with people; long wait for a table; slow service; huge wine list--almost all French; high prices; amazing food. A definite must on Duluth Street, near St. Hubert.

Our B&B host, knowing that we appreciate good food, recommended a small place called P'tit Plateau, on a hidden away corner on Marie-Anne, a block from St. Laurent, which is a BYOB with amazing French food. We were the only non-Montrealers there. I had foie gras again--poached this time, and a beautiful veal with morels. Jonathan had cream of english pea soup and juicy, perfectly cooked rib chops of young pork. We had brought along a 2003 Kangarilla Road shiraz/viognier from home, and it was a superb accompaniment. No corkage fee. Lots of places do this.

We had the requisite smoked meat sandwich at Schwartz's, in the midst of a raucous street fair going on on St. Laurent while we were there. Delicious.

My cousin-in-law took me along to one of her favorite shopping destinations--Atwater Market, which is the old-world style market we all dream could be in our city. Good bread and beautiful pastries at the bakery, three or four butchers with all kinds of free-range poultry, local-raised beef lamb and pork, boudins and saucisses, all fresh. Charcutieres, cheese shops, vegetable and flower stands, a grocer with more primo olive oils and vinegars than Dean and Deluca, Balducci and Whole Foods combined, condiments and spices, pastas, grains (four or five different brands of Violone Nanno alone and equal numbers of several other types of risotto rice like baldo and carnaroli), just mind boggling. The fish dealer had a huge tank packed with just-delivered live lobsters--turned out the lobster season from the Magdelaine Islands in the gulf of St. Lawrence had begun. When Carol found out that we had never had Canadian lobster, which she claimed were much tastier than the ones we had eaten on the Coast of Maine--she of course had to cook some for us. We had dinner on two consecutive nights at her apartment in Habitat 67--the first was marinated, grilled lamb from Northern Quebec, eaten on the terrace while viewing a huge fireworks display going on over the river, which flows on both sides of the peninsula where Habitat 67 is located. the next night we had lobsters. Big ones. Steamed. With butter. I don't know or care if they are better than Maine lobsters. They were just fantastically succulent, fresh and delicious. Then local strawberries for dessert. I haven't stepped on the scale since I got back. I did do a lot of walking while I was there. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

[gnatharobed]

Zora--- I'm so jealous. But only for a few more days. I'm going to Montreal next week Next time you go to Montreal you should check out the Jean-Talon market. It's bigger than Atwater. Lots of amazing produce, artisanal cheeses, etc. and next time you have to try poutine- we used to call it heart attack in a box in college but it was so worth it.

[zoramargolis]

Zora--- I'm so jealous. But only for a few more days. I'm going to Montreal next week Next time you go to Montreal you should check out the Jean-Talon market. It's bigger than Atwater. Lots of amazing produce, artisanal cheeses, etc. and next time you have to try poutine- we used to call it heart attack in a box in college but it was so worth it.

Cousin-in-law Carol did tell me that there was another market she likes, even better than Atwater--I assume she was referring to the one you mention above. But it was Saturday, and parking was going to be less problematic at Atwater. Atwater is closer to her home, as well.

I might have tried poutine in another situation, but I didn't feel I could take the risk of despoiling a rare opportunity to eat seared foie gras. I figured that the dish I chose involved cheese curds and maple syrup, so I was getting enough gout de Montreal. Maybe next time.

We may be returning to Montreal more often, in the future. My daughter has decided that she likes Montreal even more than New York City, and I think McGill just went to the top of her potential college list.

[Escoffier]

Cousin-in-law Carol did tell me that there was another market she likes, even better than Atwater--I assume she was referring to the one you mention above. But it was Saturday, and parking was going to be less problematic at Atwater. Atwater is closer to her home, as well.

I might have tried poutine in another situation, but I didn't feel I could take the risk of despoiling a rare opportunity to eat seared foie gras. I figured that the dish I chose involved cheese curds and maple syrup, so I was getting enough gout de Montreal. Maybe next time.

We may be returning to Montreal more often, in the future. My daughter has decided that she likes Montreal even more than New York City, and I think McGill just went to the top of her potential college list.

and some of the best kosher food in the world on Rue de Mont Real (or Mount Royal if you prefer) up the road a bit from McGill. From the middle of the mount to the top is prime (well-hidden) smoked meat heaven...one of the finest things in the world to do to a brisket...if you don't eat smoked meat in Montreal, you haven't been to Montreal.

[porcupine]

OK, say you only had three or four days in Montreal, say Wednesday through Saturday, in the middle of August, on a whim. And say you really wanted to check out the fine dining and arts/antiques scene, and wanted to get around easily using public transportation. Which part of town would you stay in? And where would you stay, assuming you like B&Bs and boutique hotels (for fun, let's add: private bathrooms a must, price no object)? And, of course, what restaurants would be on the must-do list (any cuisine, price no object).

I have two days to plan this thing. The dates are fixed. Thanks for the help.

Zora, the place you stayed sounds lovely but is booked already.

`-desperately in need of a vacation that does not involve driving,

[zoramargolis]

OK, say you only had three or four days in Montreal, say Wednesday through Saturday, in the middle of August, on a whim. And say you really wanted to check out the fine dining and arts/antiques scene, and wanted to get around easily using public transportation. Which part of town would you stay in? And where would you stay, assuming you like B&Bs and boutique hotels (for fun, let's add: private bathrooms a must, price no object)? And, of course, what restaurants would be on the must-do list (any cuisine, price no object).

I have two days to plan this thing. The dates are fixed. Thanks for the help.

Zora, the place you stayed sounds lovely but is booked already.

`-desperately in need of a vacation that does not involve driving,

There are a number of B&B's in the Plateau from Parc Lafontaine to Mount Royal and over to McGill--my guess is that there is some Montreal website that lists them. There are also a number of large and small hotels adjacent to McGill Univ. Both areas have good Metro access and are walking distance from the best shopping, clubs, restaurants and festival sites. Whatever you do, be sure to have a meal at Au Pied du Cochon-- it's the height of the food scene for young, hip Montreal.

[ol_ironstomach]

Gubeen and I have been meaning to put together a piece on our not-quite-week in Montreal last month...I spent nearly the whole time in my capacity at the Grand Prix, and she spent an equivalent amount of time exploring the food scene across the Plateau and Centre-Ville.

First, the Metro is compact, convenient, and indispensible. A three-day tourist pass runs something like CDN$17 and gets you unlimited rides...just display it to the station attendant. Note that some Metro stations have multiple entrances, of which one will always be staffed but the others may be automated and cannot be entered with a pass.

Au Pied de Cochon also came very highly recommended, but something got botched in our reservation so we were unable to partake. We did have two lovely dinners at Au Cinquième Péché, a bistro on Mont-Royal towards the top of the remarkable restaurant district. Their carrot soup, served just warm, was quite refreshing amid the hot June weather, and probably gave me the respite I needed before attacking the veal sweetbreads one night, and the duck confit baked in clay the other. Save room for dessert; they make a gorgeous chocolate "bar" on a crispy flaky base, served with a sweet pepper granita.

I think the Plateau Mont-Royal makes for a much more interesting wander than in Centre-Ville. If you wander down either Rue St Denis or Boulevard St Laurent, you'll encounter wall-to-wall restaurants for the better part of 1.5 miles, from a remarkable variety of cultures. Between the two are a surprising number of Brazilian and Turkish shops. Also, despite the concentration of tourist traps, Old Montreal is worth walking through, for both admiring the old architecture (especially the mansard roofs) and noodling around in the smaller boutiques.

Definitely, definitely take a short subway hop (and walk two blocks north) up to the Marché Jean-Talon early in your trip; it's row-after-row of outdoor produce vendors with a scattering of maple sugar items, conserves, and cheeses throw in for good measure. One of the permanent storefronts houses Qui Lait Cru, a fromagère who specializes in local Quebec cheeses, and especially in the raw-milk varieties. In the mornings, they also carry fresh breads from Boulangerie Le Fromentier (1375 Ave Laurier Est), the bakery mentioned in Gourmet's Montreal issue last winter as making possibly the best breads they've had anywhere. However, Qui Lait Cru is not an affineur...all of their cheeses are fresh from the cheesemaker's cave. If you want something with a bit of proper aging to it, you'll have to venture into one of the French neighborhoods to find the Fromentier bakery itself, on Avenue Laurier about a dozen blocks east of Rue St. Denis. Look for the wrought iron arch over the alley on your left. In the same space are three vendors: Fromentier takes the lion's share of the space, there's a cheesemonger and maître affineur across the aisle, and in the corner is an even smaller counter selling cured meats, terrines, patés and head cheeses.

Somewhere not far from that location is a shop that sells only poutine...15 or 20 variations of it. Gubeen will have to tell you more; she was directed there by both the cheesemonger and several little old ladies waiting in line. She'll also have to be the one to give you directions to the shop that sold only mushrooms of all - well, almost all - varieties, and so on.

Of course, there's Schwartz's. You'll enjoy it more if you go with a relaxed attitude and a willingness to chat with the people sitting right next to you...the tables are abutted cafeteria-style. They'll give you your choice of lean, medium, or fat when you order your smoked meat. Medium is like what most people think a good pastrami should resemble (except that smoked meat is NOT pastrami, but resembles pastrami minus the pepper), but fat is gorgeous and reminiscent of the ridiculous pastrami sandwiches I used to wolf down at Elsie's in Cambridge.

Soda-hounds like myself will enjoy the fact that the bottlers of Montreal use real sugar. It all tastes better, especially the Dr. Pepper

Mr. P might object, but I would highly recommend a leisurely visit to the Jardin Botanique adjacent to the Olympic stadium complex. Their rose collection is incredible, there's a garden dedicated to poisonous ornamental plants, and I seem to recall a very calming Japanese garden as well (which I didn't get to visit on this trip).

[StephenB]

Dave Hsu -- when you were wolfing down pastrami at Elsie's, how did you manage to keep both hands on the pinball machine? This is what kept the Mt. Auburn cleaners going!

Elsie's is long gone, but there is a place sort of like it (minus the pinball) on Brattle St. near the hospital.

[StephenB]

My favorites:

Au Pied de Cochon. This requires planning ahead because they are thronged. Wonderful spirit, activity, an inventive menu.

Brunoise. Young, trendy, but hospitable to fogies. Very good value.

Restaurant Yoyo. BYOB. A local joint. Great atmosphere.

Toqué. Elegant, expensive. A dining experience to be relished and remembered.

Like everybody else, I like Schwartz's. But it doesn't remind me of anyplace.

An excellent Sunday brunch is available at the Hotel Sofitel.

On the other hand, you can hardly go wrong in that town.

[Rhone1998]

My wife and I are headed up for a romantic week long vacation in Montreal the last week of August. We already have reservations for Toque and Au Pied de Cochon. Besides these two places, which have been recommended to us by many, what are the one or two "must-visit" restaurants in this wonderful food city? Anything goes here, from hole-in-the-wall to 4 stars, breakfast joint to dinner only.

Thanks so much!!

[CrescentFresh]

My wife and I are headed up for a romantic week long vacation in Montreal the last week of August. We already have reservations for Toque and Au Pied de Cochon. Besides these two places, which have been recommended to us by many, what are the one or two "must-visit" restaurants in this wonderful food city? Anything goes here, from hole-in-the-wall to 4 stars, breakfast joint to dinner only.

Thanks so much!!

Le Roi du Plateau. Rue Rachel. Portuguese. Great grill. Good wine. Inexpensive. Better than hole-in-the-wall. Draws a lot of locals rather than tourists. It's the one place I go to EVERY time I've been to Montreal in the 10 years or so. The closest local place I can compare it to is Ray's the Steaks. Based on decor, both have better food than you'd expect if you first walked in blind to it. (RTS is MUCH better though).

[StephenB]

My wife and I are headed up for a romantic week long vacation in Montreal the last week of August. We already have reservations for Toque and Au Pied de Cochon. Besides these two places, which have been recommended to us by many, what are the one or two "must-visit" restaurants in this wonderful food city? Anything goes here, from hole-in-the-wall to 4 stars, breakfast joint to dinner only.

Thanks so much!!

You have exactly the two places I would have put at the top of my list. I can't say enough about the elegance of Toqué and the spirit of Pied. I would add Brunoise (romantic) and Schwartz's Hebrew Deli (great fun). If you're there for Sunday brunch, try the Hotel Sofitel.

[porcupine]

Mr P and I are now back from our "hurry up and relax" tour of Montreal. And boy did we eat some good food.

Unfortunately we also had some bad. Too tired to research, we stumbled into a thoroughly mediocre joint for a late lunch after arriving Wednesday. Not having learned our lesson, we trusted to luck and utterly struck out Thursday at lunch.

Friday, though, we finally found some clue, and took the Metro to Marche Jean-Talon, where we picked up a few Quebec cheeses, a mix of olives, salami, and the best - yes, the best - strawberries I have ever had in my life. Mr P nearly jumped out of his shoes when he ate one, they were that good. Then, back on the Metro and a schlep to Boulangerie Le Fromentier for pain et patisserie. I don't know if I'd say, as Gourmet did, that they have the best bread anywhere, but I'd die happy for having tried it. We found a picnic table in the shade of a small neighborhood park and finally had a lunch worth writing home about.

I can't say enough aboot how good Quebec cheeses are. We had Riopelle, a triple cream cow cheese, a washed-rind cow cheese, and a perfecctly aged chevre, Bouq'Emissaire, the rind of which was coated in ash. This cheese had a soft, runny, slightly strong layer of paste next to the rind and a fresh, almost sweet interior.

[note - must cajole/bribe/threaten/whatever Jill into obtaining these]

Dinner the first night was at Au Pie du Cochon - enough has been written about that. It's an experience.

The second night we ate at Au Cinquieme Peche. Our final Montreal dinner was at Brunoise.

But I'm way too tired and I have a lot to say about these two, so tune in tomorrow for a description of the best meal I've had all year.

[porcupine]

I've written and rewritten a review of Au Cinquieme Peche about a dozen times, only to learn that I'm no writer, just a hack. So here's a straightforward decription instead.

The space: 32 seats in a building corner, windows on two sides, black and white tile floor, soft yellow walls, a few ceiling fans, bare wood tables and black wood chairs, 3 stools at the bar. A large chalkboard on the back wall displays the current wines-by-the glass list.

The food I ate: a few bites of Mr P's tomato salad, with Flemish tomatoes ("picked this morning from my best friend's farm"), pancetta, Parmesan, and basil oil.

A salad of mesclun, endive, grapes, Benedictin bleu cheese [hold the walnuts], and honey-lavender vinaigrette.

Red snapper served with a compote of tomato, red pepper, black olive, and fennel three ways: braised shreds, puree, and tart tatain.

To accompany the two courses: Gros Mamseng Cote de Gascogne 2005, which went beautifully with both dishes.

Coconut milk rice pudding with pineapple and passion fruit.

This is the best meal I've had all year. Why? I'm not sure. Maybe the unexpected. Such perfectly prepared food, like crisp-skinned fish with butter-soft flesh, in a simple setting (call it the Komi effect). Fennel tart tatain, which was pretty much what I expected: molded caramelized fennel atop a pastry disk, yet so much more than I expected. And the honey lavender dressing wasn't at all sweet, floral, or perfumy; rather it was just sweet enough to balance the bite of the cheese, and the lavender petals added more of a peppery bite than an floral finish.

If I were returning to Montreal I would go back to this restaurant above all others.

Brunoise was also fantastic, with a lovely, quiet, muted-tone setting. We had a great three course meal with one glass of wine for about 100$C, before tax and tip. The entree prices seem high at first until you realize that your appetizer and dessert are included in that price. Honestly, though, I just can't recall what we ate, other than beef tenderloin with braised veal cheeks, beacuse I'm still in awe of The Fifth Peach.

Also worth exploring: Camelia Sinensis, a charming calm spot on rue Emery, half a block off rue St-Denis and a bit uphill of Ave. Maisonneuve (I bet I spelled that wrong). Anyway, they take tea seriously here, bringing you the correct accoutrements for the type of tea you've chosen. They also have a small selection of delicious pastries and cookies. The boutique next door has teas and pots for sale.

For damn fine chocolates, go to Suite 88, 3957, rue St-Denis. They also serve excellent gelato. When they say the chocolate-chili is hot, they mean it.

And at 375, rue Roy est is Les Chocolats de Chloe, also damn fine.

[Jason Andelman, I hold you responsible for turning Mr P into a chocoholic. Until we went to your open house chocolate tasting the other week, he never gave much thought to the stuff. But he spent an hour hunting fine chocolates while I pored over my French phrasebook in Camelia Sinensis. And he reports that, good as the Montreal chocolates were, your's are better.]

ETA: a few things will help you get along fine in French-speaking Montreal: a smile, a sense of humor, and an ability to pronounce bonjour/bonsoir and parlez-vous anglais?

[ol_ironstomach]

... beacuse I'm still in awe of The Fifth Peach.

FWIW, I realized a while back that I hadn't paid close enough attention to the accents - péché, not pêche. It's actually the fifth sin. I'm not sure which sin is fifth, but my money's on lust or gluttony

[porcupine]

FWIW, I realized a while back that I hadn't paid close enough attention to the accents - péché, not pêche. It's actually the fifth sin. I'm not sure which sin is fifth, but my money's on lust or gluttony

merde! Thanks for setting me straight.

[Andelman]

[Jason Andelman, I hold you responsible for turning Mr P into a chocoholic. Until we went to your open house chocolate tasting the other week, he never gave much thought to the stuff. But he spent an hour hunting fine chocolates while I pored over my French phrasebook in Camelia Sinensis. And he reports that, good as the Montreal chocolates were, your's are better.]

Thank you for the kind words, however, I am sorry I turned your husband into a chocoholic...I guess there are worse "holics" to be ....We actually were up in Montreal this past March for a chocolate business related trip. The enrobing machine that you saw in my shop was purchased from a French company who has a sales rep in Montreal. I went up there to meet with him and to use the machine firsthand before I purchased it. Anyway, we ate at many of the same places, Au Pied du Cochon (foie gras poutine, enough said) and Brunoise. We liked Brunoise, I think we felt like we were getting a good value for very good food. We also went to Chocolats de Chloe and Suite 88. I really liked Chloe, although my only beef was that she enrobes all of her chocolates with Valrhona Manjari which is a VERY strong, intense chocolate. It kind of overpowered most of the centers. Suite 88 was good, I liked the "sleek" look of the shop and enjoyed some of the pieces we bought from them. Actually, now that I think of it, I am surprised Chloe was open in the summer. She told us that she closes for a few months in the summer because it is relatively slow. I guess business must be good. Anyway, I really like Montreal and I think it is a great getaway weekend trip. Thanks gain for the compliments on the chocolates and we hope to see you back in the shop sometime soon.

[porcupine]

Au Pied du Cochon (foie gras poutine, enough said)

Yes! We had that as well. How could anyone resist?

[Lydia R]

The announcement that the Boston Globe's Joe Yonan will be joining the WaPo Food Section mentioned an article he wrote on food shopping in Montreal. Excellent read and thought it should be linked here.

Indeed, Montreal is peppered with single-themed food shops that are so focused as to seem obsessed. They offer tourists a glimpse of a European-style passion for high-quality ingredients, and the chance to take home a taste of it.

[zoramargolis]

It’s simply not as complex as those I've had at Balthazar in New York or La Coupole in Paris or Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal.

When we went to Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal this past June, we were standing in line waiting for a table, and watched the waiters set a five-level plateau at a four-top of young men. They had to stand up to eat, it was so tall. There was an abundance of iced shellfish and mollusks on the lower levels, and cooked or fried things on the upper levels, like lobster and crabs. Mama mia! It was a jaw-dropping display. When we were seated and given menus, we were astonished to see that there was an even larger, six-level plateau available--for more than $400! Jonathan settled on the single, which was a generous-enough selection of oysters, cockles, shrimp, crab, sea snails, etc. on ice. I had foie gras. We didn't rush through our meal, but even so, as we were leaving, the four-top was still working on their plateau.

[Dr. Delicious]

On my most recent visit to this hallowed city, I noticed a travesty had occurred. Peel Pub, a joint delightful in its dank (but the dank, Moe, the dank!) and with some of the best service this side of Vegas (see earlier comment), has moved to the other side of the street and is now some trendy, hipster bar that is far too crowded, far too noisy, and has far too many male employees. They’ve up and ruined the best bar in Montreal, and for what, money? Bah! Steer clear of this abomination.

[xcanuck]

On my most recent visit to this hallowed city, I noticed a travesty had occurred. Peel Pub, a joint delightful in its dank (but the dank, Moe, the dank!) and with some of the best service this side of Vegas (see earlier comment), has moved to the other side of the street and is now some trendy, hipster bar that is far too crowded, far too noisy, and has far too many male employees. They’ve up and ruined the best bar in Montreal, and for what, money? Bah! Steer clear of this abomination.

I have far more memories of the Peel Pub that I really should have, given the state I was in when upon leaving the Peel. The place was legendary. Everything from the recycled leftover pitchers of draft, the $0.99 plates of spaghetti, the thick clouds of blue smoke, to watching fellow patrons pass out on top of the tables. It's a shame that the place has gone upscale. They tried to open a "replica" of the Peel in Toronto (on King St W) but they made it all fancy-schmancy and it bombed. They tried to emulate the Montreal pub's success by alllowing 18 year olds to drink only to end up losing their liquor license and going under.

ANYHOW....I'm taking Lisa to witness le grand spectacle that is a Hockey Night in Canada match between Montreal and Toronto. We're also taking in the Shins show at Metropolis the night before.

Question to the crowd is: does anyone know the hours for Au Pied de Cochon? Do you think it's possible to have dinner there in an hour if we have reservations for when doors open? I'm perfectly happy going to Dunn's for smoked meat and maybe some poutine but I promised Lisa a "proper" dinner.

[rbh]

click here. (5pm)

When I went there in September, they were reasonably attentive and I think if you needed to get out in an hour, it's possible if you let them know. Though admitedly, we were in no hurry then. Are you driving there? The harder part may be trying to catch a cab from up there back to the BellCenter for the game.... go Leafs

[xcanuck]

Our trip to Montreal was a success hockey-wise, but we weren't quite as fortunate when it came to food. We decided not to go to Au Pied de Cochon since there wasn't enough time before the hockey game. But we did take in the following:

Dunn's - smoked meat sandwiches and poutine. Both were average and decent quality for the price. The smoked meat is piled high and was only just the tiniest bit dry. That could have something to do with the fact that we ordered it at 1am and the place was pretty empty. The cheese on our poutine was squeaky delicious and the fries were relatively crisp. The gravy could have used more seasoning, IMO.

Brutopia - St Patty's day irish stew and roast beef sandwiches, along with several pints of Guiness. Considering that Brutopia isn't exactly known for their food, the stew was remarkably good! Lots of large chunks of tender lamb and a very rich broth. I wonder if this is part of their regular menu - I hope so. The beer here is great.

Le Banquiste - the house of poutine. This is the place that Anthony Bourdain visited on his No Reservations show. Over 20 different types of poutine are on the menu and you can create your own. We went with the Poutine Kamikaze - merguez and banana peppers along with the standard poutine. The merguez was disappointing - a little like a quasi-spicy cocktail sausage. The poutine was above average. Great cheese curds but otherwise not much different than what we had at Dunn's. I decided to try a "hot dog michigan", which turned out to be the worst hot dog ever smothered with spaghetti sauce. Really. My wife is from Michigan and has never heard of this, though my Montreal friends claim that this is everywhere in La Belle Province. Blech!

Yeah, not a culinary tour de force. We drank pretty heavily all weekend so filling comfort food was on the agenda. We'll be back in a few months and APdC will definitely be on the agenda, with the foie gras poutine on the top of the list.

For the record, the Habs won in a shootout. What a great game!

[porcupine]

The cheese on our poutine was squeaky delicious

This phrase is going on my short list of Best and Most Creative Bits of Writing for 2007. [ed note - if you've eaten poutine, you'll realize this description actually makes sense]

[ol_ironstomach]

Hello. My name is Dave, and I am a Montréal addict. In fact, I haven't left yet.

I still don't know how the locals manage to stay thin with all this food around. Must be the chain smoking. Count me in as a true believer now that the foie gras poutine at Au Pied de Cochon is the most amazing expression of poutine ever concocted. Wow.

[jparrott]

I love poutine. Who wants to fund me opening a poutine shop near GW. You'll lose thousands!

[jparrott]

Oh one more thing--Katz's vs. Schwarz's. Schwarz's has better fries and pickles (but you have to pay for pickles) and the smoked meat sandwich is $4.95 versus $12 or so (and is about 2/3 as big, so good value). Katz's has beer. As for the star of the show, both are great when ordered fat/juicy. But the fact remains, that Schwarz's is brisket and Katz's is plate, which is a better cut for the treatment (more marbling and a less-crumbly texture). So Katz's is 1 and Schwarz's is 1A. But if Schwarz's did its voodoo to plate instead of brisket, it'd be the hands-down winner.

In other news, it's as-you-were for APDC, Brunoise, Banquise, and Cinquieme Peche (whose nothing-out-of-place wine list should be a model for all others). Chez Claudette for post-nap pie-ing and poutine-ing was delightful (with a waiter that could probably qualify for six passports if he tried). Also PatatiPatata for more poutine.

[ol_ironstomach]

In other news, it's as-you-were for APDC, Brunoise, Banquise, and Cinquieme Peche (whose nothing-out-of-place wine list should be a model for all others).

A few more memories from last weekend have made the long journey to my fingertips.

At 5e Péché: the lightest gnocchi I've ever had (courtesy of tweaking the egg/water ratio), the marrow bones now come three pieces to a serving, emulsions have found their way onto many of the entrées, and for the first time I noticed that much of their wine list is directly imported on their behalf. Somehow we ended up drinking wines that came through more normal channels - a terrific muscadet, and a wacky red Thierry Puzelat blend "Cuvée Rézin" (Puzelat also does a white blend under that cuvee).

APDC is quite a challenge. We were mostly stuffed after sampling our way through the starters. The seafood plateau is very good, but the knockouts were the pork and fowl dishes (sometimes both). The better ones are Michel-Richard-crazy. Foie gras poutine has to be the most compelling junk food ever. The guinea hen liver paté is what the "faux gras" at Central dreams of becoming someday. And, just to make sure you've had enough liver, there's another 100g of foie gras tucked in with the magret breast in the duck in a can, which is served directly from the fully-labeled can, pried open at tableside.

At La Banquise, be aware that most of the poutines with pepper in them are referring to sweet peppers, not hot.

We had to look longingly at the whole seasoned briskets for sale in the window at Schwartz's. Not because we weren't crazy enough to consider bringing one back, but because we didn't want to lug one around the rest of the afternoon.

[jparrott]

Gotta admit, the duck in a can would've been better with legs, instead of breast.

[collije]

Off to Montreal tomorrow, to enjoy a glorious week attending JazzFest [2nd time]. Many of the places in this thread I've been to & also recommend. Will see if I have time to checkout 1-2 new ones as well

[xcanuck]

We're in Montreal right now (I am currently "working from home" while ensconced in the IBM office downtown). The atmosphere and attendance at the Jazzfest is being somewhat dampened by showers and thunderstorms. Yesterday we checked out the free entertainment on the streets and tonite we head to Metropolis to catch Patrick Watson and the Besnard Lakes - neither of which have much to do with jazz, yet everything to do with Montreal.

We managed to snag an early reservation at Au Pied de Cochon last night. Martin Picard was onsite and managing the construction of some of the most wonderfully decadent food I've had in a long time. We started with a platter that included pickled venison tongue, boudin, terrines, guinea hen mousse, and stout jam. The boudins (pork sausage and not to be confused with boudin blanc or boudin noir) were especially good - spicy and with a nice firm texture and snap. The stout jam was really something different. Too strong to eat on it's own, of course, but great on bread and added something special when added sparingly to a little of the terrine.

We followed that up with foie gras poutine. I loved the foie gras, the fries, and the curds but the gravy was too rich with duck fat and lacked seasoning. The overall texture was of fat, instead of the crunchiness of fries mixed in with the squeakiness of the curds.

The mains were lamb shanks confit and bison tartare (the latter served with a large cone of the best fries I've ever tasted). The lamb shank was HUGE - I only got through about half before it was apparent that the meal would get the better of me. I was so full that I couldn't bring myself to trying out any of Lisa's tartare, though I couldn't stop myself from eating the fries. They were totally like crack. Very crispy on the outside, and creamy on the inside. Somehow, each and every fry would have a few sprinkles of kosher on salt on them. Absolutely perfectly seasoned. Just amazing.

We're considering a return visit to PDC for dinner tonite, if I don't go into cardiac arrest after last night's indulgence.

[LizH]

My husband and I just had a great visit to Montreal. We of course visited the wonderful Schwarz's- it was so good, we went again Monday and got some sandwiches to go. I need to figure out if I can get that smoked meat delivered to my Father back in the states, I think I would win the daughter of the year award if I could.

We went to the "house of meat/pork"--Au Pied de Couchon- wow. We had the Au Pied de Couchon salad that my father-in-law loves, and it was a salad of meat (well, pork) and just enough greens to almost be an actual salad. My husband had the boudin tart with smoked foie gras, which was very good, but my Duck in the can (which includes a slab of foie gras) was beyond decadent. They open the can up and empty the contents onto your plate, it was a riot. I wanted to save my label, and they gave me a fresh one to remember my night of duck.

The next night we went to l'Express, which is wonderful French bistro. It was very good for the money and I had a perfect steak frite. The bread basket was filled with wonderful bread that really reminded me of France. We had a lovely apple tartin that was just the right balance of sweet and tart.

I found a lovely chocolate shop near our hotel, that was a great place to buy gifts: Les Chocolats de Chloe - 375 rue Roy East, Montreal

We stayed at a great b&b (called Anne Ma Soeur Anne) right on St-Denis, that had a little mini-kitchen (with free coffee, juice, and water -and croissants in bag on our door each morning).

Cheers.

[1000yregg]

Zora mentioned Le P'tit Plateau in Montreal earlier on this board, so when I went to Montreal with my cousin last weekend, we got reservations for Saturday night. The place is fantastic. The style is southern French, and it's bring your own wine. We actually selected a chianti for our meal which went very well with everything.

For starters, we had the smoked salmon- apparently it's smoked on the premises. We also had the foie gras maison cuit au torchon - poached with toast, raisins and onion. It was fantastic.

There were 4 people in our party so we tried several entrees. I had the Duck Magret in porto and orange sauce. We also had the Alberta lamb confit- slow cooked for 15 hrs, the medallion of red deer venison in red wine sauce, and the house specialty, the cassoulet. The cassoulet was one of the best i've ever had- it had pieces of pheasant, pork, and sausage in it.

For dessert, we had the black chocolate mousse on praline crust- whatta crust! We also had Floating Islands- 2 poached meringues in creme anglais.

More pics here.

[DPop]

Schwartz's is as good as everyone in here has said. Get the fatty version if you go, though, one of my friends ordered lean and it missed the point behind the meat, as it was dry and lacking some flavor.

APDC was a great and unique experience, but nothing like I expected. The portions were just enormous and I felt sick to my stomach after 3 bites of the overly rich foie gras poutine, which I honestly would not order if I went back despite it being tasty. The duck in a can was very good, but again, the copious amount of fat along with the slab of foie in the can just made it overwhelming. The best plate I tried was the bison ribs, cooked perfectly and not needing the tangy BBQ sauce slathered on top, as the meat carried a great flavor on its own. The fries dipped in the housemade mayo were awesome as well.

Peel Pub spaghetti with meat sauce gratinee was much sweeter than I expected, but was a good deal at $6.99 along with the $1.99 Molson Dry special that lasts all day every day. Watching the Canada/Russia world championship hockey game here was definitely a memorable experience.

Overall, the whole city had great food, but what really stuck out for me was how good the service was everywhere we went. The waiter we had at APDC was great, giving us good recommendations and telling us what to avoid as well (always appreciated and something I feel I rarely get in DC). Such a refreshing trip from a culinary perspective, although I am putting myself on a raw veggie diet for at least a week to try to cleanse myself of the absurd amount of butter and duck fat I consumed while I was there.

[porcupine]

Where did we dine? Take a guess:

asparagus with shaved parmesan

salad of frisee, apple, walnut, blue cheese

poutine

head cheese fritters

bison steak frites

duck magret with mushroom sauce

seared slab o' foie gras

pouding chomeur

...yes, head cheese fritters.

[DonRocks]

head cheese fritters

...yes, head cheese fritters.

Had one four nights ago at CityZen!

[Mark Slater]

Had one four nights ago at CityZen!

Me too!

[susanmab]

I'm going to Montreal in two weeks for what has become my annual long weekend there.

This time, no vegetarian in tow; I'm looking forward to finally having a smoked meat sandwich. hey, there has to be an upside to a break up, right? five years with a vegetarian was cramping my style :-)

[DPop]

pouding chomeur

Forgot about this. One of the best desserts I have had this year, even though it burned the hell out of my mouth on the first bite.

[VandyHoo]

I'll be in Montreal between Christmas and NYE. This will be my first visit. I'll be staying at the St. James Hotel in Old Montreal. I already have Au Pied de Couchon on the list. Has anyone been recently who can provide some recommendations? Thanks.

[Treva]

Rabbit Pot Pie at Les Filles du Roy on Bonsecours Street in old Montreal.

There was a dessert… the epitome of uncomplicated, unforgettable and impossible to replicate.

A not so piddling puddle of steaming maple syrup floating ample cubes of rustic bread deluged with velvety-cool fresh cream. Humble heaven in a stoneware porridge bowl.

[porcupine]

There's a good tapas restaurant, Pinxto, on Rue Roy Est a few blocks off Rue St Denis. There's also a cheese restaurant called La Montee de Lait, which last summer was on the Plateau, but when I googled it just now shows up on Rue Sherbrooke Ouest. That's not far from your hotel. Maybe they moved. Dinner at Au Cinquieme Peche was good last summer; I wrote about it upthread somewhere.

My favorite place is still Camellia Sinesis, but they don't serve food - just tea.

[rbh]

I've always liked Bonaparte and it's only a couple blocks from Hotel Le St James. The last time I was there over the summer... the wild boar was very good. I noticed a couple across the room getting the tasting menu, and it looked very good and was a good deal, if I recall. We just weren't hungry enough for a 5-course meal that evening... next time.

[gnatharobed]

club chasse et peche was delicious but I haven't been in over a year now so take that with a grain of salt.

[chaofun]

Went over the Christmas/New Years break. Tried the smoked meat at Schwartz's.... it was wonderful, enough has been said about it here. Its somewhere in between corned beef and pastrami I would say. Yum. The bagels at St-Viateur are really good, but different from New York. They are sweeter, and due to the wood oven baking have a toasted taste.. at least the sesame ones I had did.

One restaurant in particular I got from chowhound that was AWESOME is le club chasse et peche. One of the best meals I have had. In particular the seared scallops, the piglet risotto with shaved foie gras, was just wow. I really loved my braised pork short rib entree as well.

The other restaurant Europea, was also very very good. This we just kind of stumbled upon as Sundays and Mondays a lot of restaurants are closed. Also a tip, many businesses/restaurants seemed to be closed for the holiday. I think a lot of folks decide to go someplace warm for the holidays. But anyway, we tried the 5 course tasting menu which ended up being 9 courses. The chef kept sending out "gifts" which of course I promptly ate. By the end I think I over did it, but it was a very good deal, and quite delicious.

We had to cut out trip short so we never got to try Au Pied or poutine..... next trip.

[Keithstg]

I'll be in Montreal this Saturday (for Caps / Habs). I'm thinking of Au Pied for dinner post game, but is there anything else I should consider? Thanks.

[MODWOP]

You can't go wrong there, but consider going to L'Ile Noire (down the hill at 342 Rue Ontario, E.) for after dinner drinks. A superb scotch whisky bar/pub that's wonderful this time of year.

[Waitman]

I have to say I thought that Au Pied was one of the great restaurant disappointments of my life. Lots of porky goodness -- check the onion soup -- but otherwise just OK. Felt like I'd wasted my Big Night Out.

[DonRocks]

I have to say I thought that Au Pied was one of the great restaurant disappointments of my life. Lots of porky goodness -- check the onion soup -- but otherwise just OK. Felt like I'd wasted my Big Night Out.

I'm with Waitman on this one. Au Pied de Cochon is amusing, but I'd only go there again with a large group in order to plate-pass. The portions are simply too large, and the preps too monolithic. Foie Gras Poutine sounds convivial and lighthearted, but attempting to eat it is anything but.

There's a good tapas restaurant, Pinxto, on Rue Roy Est a few blocks off Rue St Denis.

That having been said, I thought Pinxto was terrific, and might have been the best tapas I've ever had (including in Madrid).

[StephenB]

I have to say I thought that Au Pied was one of the great restaurant disappointments of my life. Lots of porky goodness -- check the onion soup -- but otherwise just OK. Felt like I'd wasted my Big Night Out.

The point of APC is not the subtlety of the cuisine, it's the ambiance. It's a noisy, friendly, rough-hewn place, where people at the next table are automatically your BFF. English is not a problem, especially if it's clear you're not Anglo-Canadian. Yes, the portions are gargantuan, but what the hell, leave some over. Or better yet, pass things around. Is the poutine sinful? Yeah, but you're at a party. And they do offer, in season, a world-beating plateau de fruits de mer. The servers are harried but maintain a Gallic irony. All in all, it's an exciting, efficient way to dip into the foreign culture next door -- and feel part of it. If you want gorgeous food elegantly presented, go to Toqué.

[xcanuck]

We were at APdC for a quick pregame meal last weekend (Keithstq - we were probably at the same game. Did you get your tix through the Caps Road Crew??).

I have to disagree with Waitman and Rocks. While many of the dishes ARE gigantic and take some time to work through, you can order intelligently and get some smaller/lighter plates. The waitstaff is some of the friendliest I've ever come across. I'm sure they'd be more than happy to suggest dishes more to your liking and schedule. For example, the braised bison tongue is KILLER but hardly filling. Lisa had the bison tartare and I had the braised tripe on our last visit. Both were excellent dishes and small enough portions that they didn't overwhelm us (wish I could say the same for the boudin noir I had...THAT was filling!!).

I can see how some of their "signature" dishes, like the poutine or duck in a can, are virtually impossible to finish. So just don't order those when you're in a hurry or eating solo. There's plenty of selection on their menu.

StephenB's assessment is dead on. This is isn't elegant frou-frou food. It's a celebration of excess and conviviality. No one is so busy that they can't spend at least five minutes discussing Bob Gainey's free agent strategy or the rumours on the upcoming Arcade Fire release. Sit at the bar and strike up a conversation with the cooks. I can pretty much guarantee they'll start offering up tastes of whatever they're working on within a few minutes. Use your worst Franglais on them, and you'll be best friends in minutes. Commiserate with the person at the stool next to you over how you're going to function with your veins full of duck fat and alcohol. It's all part of the experience.

APdC is our "go to" in Montreal. I would never dream of visiting Montreal without a trip there.

[Keithstg]

We were at APdC for a quick pregame meal last weekend (Keithstq - we were probably at the same game. Did you get your tix through the Caps Road Crew??).

I did not, although I did run into several on the way to the game. I was a guest of the league. APDC was fantastic after the game (despite the result). Whomever said it was like attending a party was right on. I enjoyed the experience, and will do my best to get back there during all-star weekend.

[xcanuck]

I did not, although I did run into several on the way to the game. I was a guest of the league. APDC was fantastic after the game (despite the result). Whomever said it was like attending a party was right on. I enjoyed the experience, and will do my best to get back there during all-star weekend.

Now you're just making me jealous. I have to pay (through the nose) for any games we go to at the Bell Centre. Enjoy the ASG. I know Ovie's been working on his shootout move!

[DonRocks]

I have to disagree with Waitman and Rocks. While many of the dishes ARE gigantic and take some time to work through, you can order intelligently and get some smaller/lighter plates.

I think xcanuck raises an even more important point: It's difficult (sometimes impossible) to make sweeping generalities based on only one visit to a restaurant (e.g., the one I made here: "The portions are simply too large, and the preps too monolithic.")

Cheers,

Rocks.

[giant shrimp]

I have to say I thought that Au Pied was one of the great restaurant disappointments of my life. Lots of porky goodness -- check the onion soup -- but otherwise just OK. Felt like I'd wasted my Big Night Out.

this place is quite amusing, but if you are not a lumberjack the joke may be on you. after devouring a delicious jar of guinea hen liver mousse with jelly about a year ago, i turned to my super-sized foie gras & feloniously dark and bloody boudin tart and got about three or four bites into it before i started turning, according to my wife, a pale green. i never felt so full in my life, and the prospect of continuing further with the meal was totally impossible. our son complained that his cassoulet reminded him of dirty socks and my wife was put off by a flintstones-sized bone protruding from her pork chop, which she said was just okay, nothing special, despite the dramatic presentation. nobody came close to finishing their food, so there was no dessert. i found the experience frustrating, and i was unable to get anyone to return with me a few weeks ago despite my assurance that with the first meal under our belts we now would know better how to proceed through dinner. my wife says she has yet to digest her first visit.

[Waitman]

I think the reason I was disappointed was mostly because the the restaurant was sold to me as some sort of fine dining establishment, which it definitely is not.

In the right mood, I can see how it would be a great place to visit and seems a perfect place to go with a bunch of rowdies before whatever kind of sporting event they play up there on the francophonic tundra, but I was expecting something different.

[Halloween]

I'm traveling to Montreal next weekend for the first time (unless you have other suggestions for my much-needed weekend getaway). I'll be on my own, and hope you can recommend places that welcome solo diners, particularly restaurants, cafes, etc. where I can eat a nice meal at the bar. Not trying to break the bank, but if there is a must-do experience that will be fun for me, i'll try it! Also, I know this is a food board, but if you have hotel/b&b recommendations, that would be great. Merci!

(Btw, I've read the thread but I'm not sure which places are a good fit for a solo traveler.)

[zoramargolis]

I'm traveling to Montreal next weekend for the first time (unless you have other suggestions for my much-needed weekend getaway). I'll be on my own, and hope you can recommend places that welcome solo diners, particularly restaurants, cafes, etc. where I can eat a nice meal at the bar. Not trying to break the bank, but if there is a must-do experience that will be fun for me, i'll try it! Also, I know this is a food board, but if you have hotel/b&b recommendations, that would be great. Merci!

(Btw, I've read the thread but I'm not sure which places are a good fit for a solo traveler.)

We stayed in this B&B, which is in a great location and has an extremely friendly proprietor--it is a bit funky, not elegant, but he serves fantastic breakfasts. http://www.bbassin.com/index.htm

I just had an email from my cousin in Montreal, and they are having the coldest winter in recent memory... Not great weather for walking around and exploring...

June may be a more fun time to go to Montreal, unless you are a big hockey fan. In the early summer, there are Jazz Festivals, Dance festivals, Fringe Theater, street fairs--everyone is out having fun, and it's like a big party.

[Waitman]

I'm traveling to Montreal next weekend for the first time (unless you have other suggestions for my much-needed weekend getaway). I'll be on my own, and hope you can recommend places that welcome solo diners, particularly restaurants, cafes, etc. where I can eat a nice meal at the bar. Not trying to break the bank, but if there is a must-do experience that will be fun for me, i'll try it! Also, I know this is a food board, but if you have hotel/b&b recommendations, that would be great. Merci!

(Btw, I've read the thread but I'm not sure which places are a good fit for a solo traveler.)

If you're at all socially minded and have friends who appreciate an excellent sandwich, you might think to pick up a whole brisket at Schwartz's and bring it home (they waved us through customs after giving it the once-over, so I assume it's, ahem, kosher) for low- key but quite tasty beer/slaw/smoked beef luncheon.

Kind of with Zora in that if I had a weekend to plan, I might head south. I hear they have some excellent cooking in Miami.

[Halloween]

Thanks, Zora and Waitman! I hope I will be able to return to Montreal when the weather is warm, but I've purchased my tickets (Amtrak there, plane home), and will have to dress in many layers! I'll check out the B&B and work on a brisket plan.

[StephenB]

Thanks, Zora and Waitman! I hope I will be able to return to Montreal when the weather is warm, but I've purchased my tickets (Amtrak there, plane home), and will have to dress in many layers! I'll check out the B&B and work on a brisket plan.

You can see a lot of Montreal using the underground -- in shirtsleeves.

[lackadaisi]

If you ... have friends who appreciate an excellent sandwich,...

I can attest that she does have friends who appreciate an excellent sandwich.....

[Halloween]

I had a phenomenal time in Montreal. It wasn't as cold as I'd expected, and as a native of Chicago, I really enjoyed the snow. Zora, thanks for the B&B recommendation. I loved Boulanger Bassin, and will post pictures of Ken's lovingly-prepared breakfasts. Yes, I had a smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz's deli. No, I didn't smuggle any into the U.S. No time for jail. I went to Au Pied de Cochon, and what I enjoyed more than the food was watching the kitchen in all its glory, doing its dance. I was perched at the bar next to a couple from Amsterdam, and the three of us were mesmerized by the five women and one man who made the magic happen, with seriousness, joy, calm, and the occasional beer. Also, lots of Obama mania around town. Go to Montreal, especially in January.

[zoramargolis]

I had a phenomenal time in Montreal. It wasn't as cold as I'd expected, and as a native of Chicago, I really enjoyed the snow. Zora, thanks for the B&B recommendation. I loved Boulanger Bassin, and will post pictures of Ken's lovingly-prepared breakfasts. Yes, I had a smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz's deli. No, I didn't smuggle any into the U.S. No time for jail. I went to Au Pied de Cochon, and what I enjoyed more than the food was watching the kitchen in all its glory, doing its dance. I was perched at the bar next to a couple from Amsterdam, and the three of us were mesmerized by the five women and one man who made the magic happen, with seriousness, joy, calm, and the occasional beer. Also, lots of Obama mania around town. Go to Montreal, especially in January.

So glad you had a good time and were able to stay at Ken's place!

[Halloween]

So glad you had a good time and were able to stay at Ken's place!

Zora, Ken remembered you and your husband (of course!), and he looks forward to your return!

[Erin11]

Allow me to piggy-back onto Halloween's request for tips on places that are a good fit for solo travelers. I'm headed to Montreal in a couple weeks (my first time visiting the city) and will be on my own to explore/eat. My flight arrives Wednesday morning and I depart late-afternoon Saturday. I found a great rate at the Chateau Versailles, so that will be my base (planning to use my feet and public transportation to get around the city). The hotel rate includes breakfast, so I'm looking more for dinner recs (assuming lunches will be more snacks to tide me over until dinner). Having read through this thread and the Montreal threads on my "home" board (www.lth.com), I've compiled a list of potential restaurants and am now in the process of narrowing down some options.

The places that I've seen consistently recommended include: Au Pied de Cochon, Schwartz's (planning to hit this for lunch after checking into my hotel on Wed), L'Express (saw a couple reviews that claimed it's getting touristy - true?), L'Actuel, P'tit Plateau, Club Chasse et Peche and Au Cinquieme Peche. I guess my main questions are what places absolutely require reservations and what places are most open to walk-ins (I'm open to early-birding a place if it means a better shot at getting a seat)?

[giant shrimp]

Allow me to piggy-back onto Halloween's request for tips on places that are a good fit for solo travelers. I'm headed to Montreal in a couple weeks (my first time visiting the city) and will be on my own to explore/eat. My flight arrives Wednesday morning and I depart late-afternoon Saturday. I found a great rate at the Chateau Versailles, so that will be my base (planning to use my feet and public transportation to get around the city). The hotel rate includes breakfast, so I'm looking more for dinner recs (assuming lunches will be more snacks to tide me over until dinner). Having read through this thread and the Montreal threads on my "home" board (www.lth.com), I've compiled a list of potential restaurants and am now in the process of narrowing down some options.

The places that I've seen consistently recommended include: Au Pied de Cochon, Schwartz's (planning to hit this for lunch after checking into my hotel on Wed), L'Express (saw a couple reviews that claimed it's getting touristy - true?), L'Actuel, P'tit Plateau, Club Chasse et Peche and Au Cinquieme Peche. I guess my main questions are what places absolutely require reservations and what places are most open to walk-ins (I'm open to early-birding a place if it means a better shot at getting a seat)?

L'Express doesn't seem like the sort of place where you would need reservations, but it filled up fast when we were there this winter, and it would be a good idea to have them. the food was down-to-earth french cooking, good and hearty, everyday fare. we were there and noticed an american family a couple of tables away, but it seemed to me about as french as you can get in montreal and a nice place to meet the locals. i wouldn't go to schwartz's and au pied de cochon on the same day. the latter was also packed, and i would make reservations. lemeac is not on your list, but worth visiting, the cooking more refined than l'express; it was also crowded with locals, and i would suggest making a reservation, although i don't know if it's absolutely necessary; we have gone there twice -- on new year's eve (when surprisingly many restaurants in the city are on holiday).

[porcupine]

(assuming lunches will be more snacks to tide me over until dinner).

Try Camellia Sinensis , a teahouse in the Latin Quarter, for a nice pick-me-up. Also, if you're the kind of person who digs farmers' markets and you're in the neighborhood, check out Marché Jean Talon.

[Erin11]

Try Camellia Sinensis , a teahouse in the Latin Quarter, for a nice pick-me-up. Also, if you're the kind of person who digs farmers' markets and you're in the neighborhood, check out Marché Jean Talon.

Thanks for the tip on Camellia Sinensis. And yes, I am the type and definitely plan to check out Marche Jean Talon!

Giant Shrimp - thanks for your response as well. Don't worry, I know my limits and will definitely schedule Schwartz's and APdC for different days.

[giant shrimp]

I know my limits.

Ther's no better place than au pied de cochon to test them.

[Robert Rymarz]

I'll be visiting Au Pied de Cochon for the first time this weekend. Really looking forward to it.

Any must tries?

[ol_ironstomach]

The places that I've seen consistently recommended include: Au Pied de Cochon, Schwartz's (planning to hit this for lunch after checking into my hotel on Wed), L'Express (saw a couple reviews that claimed it's getting touristy - true?), L'Actuel, P'tit Plateau, Club Chasse et Peche and Au Cinquieme Peche.

FWIW, I have to say that our visit to Au Cinquième Péché last summer fell quite flat compared to previous visits. Not sure why, but we didn't encounter either the owner or the servers we'd had in the past. Perhaps it was their night off? In any case, I thought it was beyond what could be attributed to a normal level of inconsistency, so they're off my recommendation list for the moment. There's no F1 race in Montréal this year; it may be a while before I can give them another spin.

[StephenB]

I'll be visiting Au Pied de Cochon for the first time this weekend. Really looking forward to it.

Any must tries?

Le plateau de fruits de mer.

[Robert Rymarz]

Le plateau de fruits de mer.

I heard its only available in the summer. But if not it's for sure number one on my list to try.

[porcupine]

I'll be visiting Au Pied de Cochon for the first time this weekend. Really looking forward to it.

Any must tries?

Pouding chomeur!

[xcanuck]

Just noticed ol_ironstomach's post about the absent owner at APdC. They've opened a sugar shack outside of Montreal so Picard may be spending much of his time there. They'll be making their own maple syrup products, as well as raising pigs for the restaurant.

For the record, I was there a couple of weeks back and it was everything I remember. Punk rockers doubling as cooks and servers and pulling it off. I went solo to the bar and cleaned off a plate of sliced roast piglet shoulder, pickled and braised tongue, foie gras hamburger and frites (fried in duck fat, natch). I'm still trying to lose the weight I gained at that sitting.

[1000yregg]

I just went up to Montreal for the 4th of July Weekend, and found a couple new places worth checking out.

First up, a challenger to La Banquise for great poutine - a cafe called Maamm (or MA-Am-M) Bolduc. It's a neighborhood restaurant serving burgers and beers, but an interesting poutine menu. We had a beef Bourguignonne poutine which was incredible- meat sauce with red wine, mushrooms and onions.

There was also a 3 cheese poutine with curds, blue cheese and chevre that was also very decadent.

Pics

4351 De Lorimier Av

Montreal, QC H2H 2B3

(514) 527-3884

Another great find was Restaurant DNA in Old Montreal- they serve a Quebecois take on Italian and Mediterranean food. The actual location has a nice design, and they have a large wine selection. We opted for the tasting menu. Highlights included: a charcuterie plate of meats cured in-house (mortadella, fennel sausage, lardons), veal tartare, lamb carpacchio, a foie gras ravioli with, inside it, a raw egg and lamb tongues, and white chinook salmon on lentils with a veal brain bernaise.

Everything was seasonal and local, and prices were reasonable.

Pics

355 Marguerite D_Youville

Montréal, QC H2Y 2C4, Canada

(514) 287-3362

Certainly no trip would be complete without a visit to Au Pied de Cochon- the plateau de plateau was spectacular. We also had the lobster roll with foie gras. Another great meal there.

[xcanuck]

In his online chat today, Tom Sietsema posted this excellent dining guide for Montreal. He says "One of the best guides to Montreal comes courtesy of my friend Francois Furstenberg, a professor of American history at the University of Montreal (and the son of local baker Mark Furstenberg, my long-time friend). " I love the personalized Google Map that comes with it.

[chaofun]

I went to Montreal for a bachelor party over the MLK weekend, which was a blast. I finally got to visit APDC, which was fantastic. I love the fact that the portions are huge and and general felt really accessible. I shared a pigs head which was really cool, though I prob would not order it twice, there is just so much worth having on the menu. The chicharrones and fries are heavenly fried in duck fat and must be had.

We also did the traditional steak thing at Moishe's which was fine, nothing earth shattering. I tried to get into La Banquise for poutine but it was jam packed, and Joe Beef which was too far from where we were spending our time. They will have to wait till next time. This time around though before I went home, I picked up a dozen bagels from St-Viateur cafe and a nice 4 pound chunk of smoked meat for home.... Checked it on the plane. Bagels are gone already but the brisket is waiting for a special day to break out.

[1000yregg]

Went up to Montreal over 4th of July weekend with a bunch of cousins for our annual Au Pied De Cochon dinner.

Since there were 6 of us, we ordered the Tête de Cochon for 2- a whole roasted pig's head- our came with a lobster stuffed in it's mouth and then the pig's tongue was stuck on the front of the lobster. Then, they took APdC mashed potatoes (loaded with cheese curds) and draped it over the pig's eyes like a blindfold. The meat just peeled off the pig's face. We tore through everything including the eyeballs and the very tasty brain which reminded me of egg yolk or firm tofu.

pics

A real find when we were up there was Le Quartier Général (1251 Gilford, (514) 658–1839), a recently opened bistro that is BYOB, serving reasonably priced seasonal food. We had a great beef tartare, escargot cooked with Bayonne ham, and a delicious Stanstead rabbit. Great desserts, too. They have sittings at 6 pm and 9 pm each night.

pics

We went to a great coffee place- Cafe Myriade, located near the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.

[giant shrimp]

Went up to Montreal over 4th of July weekend with a bunch of cousins for our annual Au Pied De Cochon dinner.

Since there were 6 of us, we ordered the Tête de Cochon for 2- a whole roasted pig's head- our came with a lobster stuffed in it's mouth and then the pig's tongue was stuck on the front of the lobster. Then, they took APdC mashed potatoes (loaded with cheese curds) and draped it over the pig's eyes like a blindfold. The meat just peeled off the pig's face. We tore through everything including the eyeballs and the very tasty brain which reminded me of egg yolk or firm tofu.

pics

looking at the photos, and from what i know about this restaurant, i am extremely impressed that six of you were able to eat this much food.

[1000yregg]

looking at the photos, and from what i know about this restaurant, i am extremely impressed that six of you were able to eat this much food.

We asked our waiter to let us know if we were ordering too much. I was worried we were ordering too much, but he told us that our order was adequate, and we did indeed finish everything without feeling overwhelmed.

[mtpleasanteater]

We asked our waiter to let us know if we were ordering too much. I was worried we were ordering too much, but he told us that our order was adequate, and we did indeed finish everything without feeling overwhelmed.

Thank you for that picture of the pigs head. I've never seen anything plated like that. I really really want to eat at that restaurant.

[Ericandblueboy]

Going to Montreal for 3 nights in July. Would I be insane to eat at Au Pied de Cochon twice? I would love to order the seafood platter (since my wife won't partake, I'll have to gobble it up by myself) and that'll probably be all I can eat for 1 night. So I have to go back another night? How far in advance can one make reservation? What other food/restaurant should I hit up? I'm really interested in eating loads of foie gras and fruits de mer. The third thing I might want is sea urchin pasta.

[1000yregg]

Going to Montreal for 3 nights in July. Would I be insane to eat at Au Pied de Cochon twice? I would love to order the seafood platter (since my wife won't partake, I'll have to gobble it up by myself) and that'll probably be all I can eat for 1 night. So I have to go back another night? How far in advance can one make reservation? What other food/restaurant should I hit up? I'm really interested in eating loads of foie gras and fruits de mer. The third thing I might want is sea urchin pasta.

I go every year with my cousin in July- we've already booked our table. We are always surprise when people eat at APDC and don't do it family style. The seafood platter is awesome. You might be able to tackle it by yourself and still eat something else. It's like eating steamed crabs- you are still hungry afterwards. Their waitstaff is also good about telling us we've ordered too much food.

[Ericandblueboy]

I go every year with my cousin in July- we've already booked our table. We are always surprise when people eat at APDC and don't do it family style. The seafood platter is awesome. You might be able to tackle it by yourself and still eat something else. It's like eating steamed crabs- you are still hungry afterwards. Their waitstaff is also good about telling us we've ordered too much food.

Made my reservation yesterday by e-mail (for Sun 7/3) and got a confirmation call in the afternoon. I was under the impression that APDC is rather unresponsive and prone to losing reservations. Should I be concerned? Should I reconfirm my reservation? Sat. night I'm thinking about doing DNA and Monday night I'm thinking about Le Local. If you have better suggestions for Sat. or Mon., please let me know. We're staying at the Marriott Chateu Champlain next to Bonaventure station - no car, so no long rides.

[1000yregg]

Made my reservation yesterday by e-mail (for Sun 7/3) and got a confirmation call in the afternoon. I was under the impression that APDC is rather unresponsive and prone to losing reservations. Should I be concerned? Should I reconfirm my reservation? Sat. night I'm thinking about doing DNA and Monday night I'm thinking about Le Local. If you have better suggestions for Sat. or Mon., please let me know. We're staying at the Marriott Chateu Champlain next to Bonaventure station - no car, so no long rides.

Too funny- we are eating at APDC the same evening- I think my reservation is for 6 pm- They are fine with booking this far out, but you might want to confirm a few weeks out. I've posted about my favs in this thread. We are looking to try out some new places this year.

[Ericandblueboy]

Too funny- we are eating at APDC the same evening- I think my reservation is for 6 pm- They are fine with booking this far out, but you might want to confirm a few weeks out. I've posted about my favs in this thread. We are looking to try out some new places this year.

Our reservation is for 5 p.m. Gotta make sure it's early enough so the baby doesn't get tired and cranky.