Tom Sietsema's Reviews

[DonRocks]

"Man, I wouldn't want your job."

-- anonymous restaurant critic to anonymous website moderator.

Response: Likewise! JEEZ.

[Miami Danny]

"Man, I wouldn't want your job."

-- anonymous restaurant critic to anonymous website moderator.

Response: Likewise! JEEZ.

C'mon, Tom has one of the best jobs in the world! As for Rockwell, sir, you only have yourself to blame.

[brian]

Think of it this way: if someone were to point out a Russian chef's use of chorizo as "trumpeting his/her European origins," you'd at the very least be confused, right? So why's it okay to do the same for an Ivorian chef using an ingredient from a continent away?

I had a similar reaction when reading the review, but on FarrahOlivia's website it describes the cooking as "...American, French, and African cuisine", so it seems like more of a case of the restaurant trying to position itself that way rather than Tom ignoring the distinction.

[Kanishka]

Response: Likewise! JEEZ.

Assuming you're referring to my comment, its not that hard to look at a map and do some fact checking. Bumbling on the geographic origins of wine varietals probably would make it hard to get a sommelier certificate, right? Why is it okay when a food critic does it about ethnic cuisine? Especially when things Ethiopian are such a known quantity in this city.

[DonRocks]

Assuming you're referring to my comment, its not that hard to look at a map and do some fact checking. Bumbling on the geographic origins of wine varietals probably would make it hard to get a sommelier certificate, right? Why is it okay when a food critic does it about ethnic cuisine? Especially when things Ethiopian are such a known quantity in this city.

Here's the quote:

Heat surfaces in the form of some berbere oil, an accent that enlivens the eating and trumpets the chef's origins. (Ouattara was born in Ivory Coast; the base of the oil relies on the Ethiopian spice blend made with red pepper, fenugreek, cardamom and more.)

Farrah Olivia's website itself touts the "artistic and modern approach to American, French, and African cuisine." The parenthetical phrase serves a dual purpose: to clarify (both countries are African) and to qualify (the semicolon indicates contrast).

Just as Tom knows to stir up his bibim bap, I also have to think he knows where both Ivory Coast and Ethiopia are. The Post has fact-checkers and editors, and nobody flagged this sentence because I just don't think there's anything to flag.

(My comment, btw, wasn't specifically about your post; it just seems that Tom often gets line-item nailed here. I wouldn't want to write under this level of scrutiny.)

Cheers,

Rocks.

[The Hersch]

I wouldn't want to write under this level of scrutiny.

Butcha do.

[Kanishka]

Farrah Olivia's website itself touts the "artistic and modern approach to American, French, and African cuisine." The parenthetical phrase serves a dual purpose: to clarify (both countries are African) and to qualify (the semicolon indicates contrast).

Just as Tom knows to stir up his bibim bap, I also have to think he knows where both Ivory Coast and Ethiopia are. The Post has fact-checkers and editors, and nobody flagged this sentence because I just don't think there's anything to flag.

Odds are I'm overreacting to something Chef Morou himself is not bothered by. But to the geographically ignorant reader, the line seems like misinformation.

I agree, btw, on the line-item nailing sentiment. It is a bit unfair. Unfortunately, I'm very sensitive about geography and how common notions like a singular "Africa" are subtly diminishing of indigenous cultures. Its something slightly more than a pet peeve of mine. (I'm also irritated by the mission statement on FO's website!)

[Miami Danny]

Assuming you're referring to my comment, its not that hard to look at a map and do some fact checking. Bumbling on the geographic origins of wine varietals probably would make it hard to get a sommelier certificate, right? Why is it okay when a food critic does it about ethnic cuisine? Especially when things Ethiopian are such a known quantity in this city.

I agree. Olivia is from Cote D'ivoire. Berbere is from Ethiopia. Are they both in Africa? Yes. Would you say a Spanish chef's use of Hungarian Paprika trumpets the chef's origins? No. Editors miss stuff too.

[DonRocks]

Unfortunately, I'm very sensitive about geography and how common notions like a singular "Africa" are subtly diminishing of indigenous cultures.

We can discuss this over Chinese food when you get back.

[johnb]

Odds are I'm overreacting to something Chef Morou himself is not bothered by. But to the geographically ignorant reader, the line seems like misinformation.

Unfortunately, I'm very sensitive about geography and how common notions like a singular "Africa" are subtly diminishing of indigenous cultures.

But I'll bet you yourself have often referred to "Italian" or "Chinese" or "German" or "Indian" cuisine. We all do. But in reality there is no such thing(s). Each of those (and many others) is a very culturally and in every other way a diverse country/area/continent, often with wildly differing regional cuisines based on traditionally different ingredients, styles, fuel sources, etc etc. Yet all of us, right or wrong, frequently lump them into the same basket. Why should Africa be any different?

Seems to me Morou is one of the few, perhaps the only, well-known chef around who is sub-Saharan "African" (don't get me started on that Swedish guy in NY), and he sees it as his obligation/advantage to bring some of Africa into his cooking, all of (sub-Saharan) Africa. Tom reflected that in his review. I see nothing wrong with that.

[Poivrot Farci]

Hey Don,

Love your foodie bulletin board!

Couldn't get the NY Post this morning so I gave the WaPo edition a shot. YMMV.

It's all so 2007.

WTF?! FYI, IIRC we're only 28 days into 2007AD? Who is this guy? Rasputin? LOL!

Powdered food? OMG that's crazy! 65 degree eggs? Like a little less than room temperature?

Has this Morou guy ever tried this wacky 5150 stuff before, B/C someone just like him was doing it a few years ago at Signatures. Are any other chefs in the USA making weird LASER/SCUBA food thingies this year? FWIW I've been experimenting with WF sea sprinkles, GM AP powdered wheat, PCP, cocaine, 4C bread dust and NASA dried ice-cream at home since 1986. Does that count? ROFLOL!!!

BTW, AFAIC, Tom's WYSIWYG happy-go-lucky surgical wit must make it easy to write a M*A*S*H episode, Care Bear Movie script and Horatio Cane's opening CSI crescendo in the same day! ROLFLOLBAG!

[qwertyy]

This regularly annoys me too, Kanishka, but it is an unfortunate truism that most Americans see Africa as a single cultural entity, rather than a continent composed of 40+ countries and countless more languages, tribes, and clans.

("Who is Darfur?" an acquaintance once asked me. Another once mentioned, "My friends just came back from Africa," but had never thought to ask that friend what country or city they'd traveled to--"Africa" was quite enough information.)

I'm quite sure Tom is aware of the culinary distance between Abidjan and Addis, or even more broadly, between West and East Africa, but likely relied on the average newspaper reader's understanding of Africa As Monolith to shorthand the chef's and the ingredient's origins.

Now, this still annoys me because I've never been fond of catering to the lowest common denominator, and because frankly this general ignorance will never change as long as curricula continue to concentrate on European literature and history and as long as public figures decline to use their platforms to inform. But that's the way it is.

And, hey, go back far enough and we're ALL from Africa, right?

But I'll bet you yourself have often referred to "Italian" or "Chinese" or "German" or "Indian" cuisine. We all do. But in reality there is no such thing(s). Each of those (and many others) is a very culturally and in every other way a diverse country/area/continent, often with wildly differing regional cuisines based on traditionally different ingredients, styles, fuel sources, etc etc. Yet all of us, right or wrong, frequently lump them into the same basket. Why should Africa be any different?

Because Italy, China, Germany, and India are countries and Africa is a continent. Change the other half of this equation to "Asian" cuisine and I'm on board.

[Kanishka]

But I'll bet you yourself have often referred to "Italian" or "Chinese" or "German" or "Indian" cuisine. We all do. But in reality there is no such thing(s).

Qwertyy's response says it best. The only way this analogy comes CLOSE to working is in the case of China, and maybe India. Combined, 1/3 the world's population, and even then countries with a long history of cultural unity. Not so between East and West Africa. Not during the Malian empire, not during the colonial period, and definitely not now.

[johnb]

Because Italy, China, Germany, and India are countries and Africa is a continent. Change the other half of this equation to "Asian" cuisine and I'm on board.

Disgree. The common definitions of "country" and "continent" are arbitrary, and for purposes of this discussion are not very useful and indeed are very simplistic. For example, the population of sub-Saharan Africa (the part Kanishka is referring to) is about 750 million, in a land area of about 20 million km². Comparable data for China are 1.3 billion and 7.5 million, while for India it is 1.1 billion and 3.3 million. Both China and India are highly culturally and culinarily diverse, in my view probably as diverse as sub-Saharan Africa. Whether any of them are "continents" or "countries" is beside the point.

The central point remains. Everybody paints most things with a broad brush. Righteous indignation about lumping the various cuisines of Africa together is not particularly justified unless the same tendency is avoided with respect to other cultures/cuisines, and in fact I doubt that you, or Kanishka, or just about anyone else, including yours truly, does so. What's sauce for the goose is sauce for the gander. Maybe it's too bad, but the fact is, to my eyes at least, there is no real difference in the way African cuisine is being thought of.

As such, IMO Tom's original approach is wholly reasonable and justified.

[DonRocks]

[This is an interesting discussion, but let's make sure to keep it on topic and not launch into a general geopolitical tussle. It hasn't strayed yet, but it's showing mild warning signs. Cheers, Rocks.]

[qwertyy]

As such, IMO Tom's original approach is wholly reasonable and justified.

And the thing is, I agree. Though I appreciate precision wherever I can find it, given his audience and subject matter, I don't frankly expect the guy to delve into a dissertation on the finer points of African history and culture.

But this board tends to pride itself on knowing--and learning--about the nuances of regional cuisines, and I for one appreciate Kanishka pointing out this small issue that's bothered me too.

I mean, to get right down to it, I personally tend to paint Indian cuisine with a broad brush because I'm pretty ignorant about how its cuisines differ. But I also don't purport that people from Goa, Bengal, and Kashmir have more in common with each other culinarily than do a Xhosa, a Nuer, and an Igbo just because I know more about the Africans.

And now I'm off to get some foul for dinner...

[Within the boundaries, Rocks? ]

[Barbara]

And now I'm off to get some foul for dinner...

Some foul what?

[qwertyy]

Some foul what?

Foul/fool

[ETA: FYI, interesting article on said general geopolitical issues in the LA Times this weekend.]

[The Hersch]

From today's review of EatBar:

The seeds and sprouts crowd gets some stroking with risotto fritters, served by the piece and affixed to their plate with a dab of tongue-teasing romesco; and with gnudi, thimbles of boiled (and buttery) ricotta cheese surrounding a pinch of wilted ra-dicchio and lapped with a moat of taleggio cheese sauce.

My reaction when I first read this was that it was among the more bizarre sentences I had ever read. After reflecting on it for a couple of minutes, I realized that Tom intended "the seeds and sprouts crowd" to denote non-meat-eaters. But that's still bizarre. And "gets some stroking"?

[Escoffier]

From today's review of EatBar: My reaction when I first read this was that it was among the more bizarre sentences I had ever read. After reflecting on it for a couple of minutes, I realized that Tom intended "the seeds and sprouts crowd" to denote non-meat-eaters. But that's still bizarre. And "gets some stroking"?

Can we get Phyllis Richman back, please?

[crackers]

But not long enough to spell Manhattan correctly or capitalize Queens?

Can we get Phyllis Richmann back, please?

Phyllis has moved on, and we should too.

[Apparently you haven't lived in the DC area long enough to spell Phyllis Richman correctly.]

[dmwine]

From today's review of EatBar: My reaction when I first read this was that it was among the more bizarre sentences I had ever read. After reflecting on it for a couple of minutes, I realized that Tom intended "the seeds and sprouts crowd" to denote non-meat-eaters. But that's still bizarre. And "gets some stroking"?

Perhaps he's auditioning for DC magazine. Or Capitol File.

[Escoffier]

Phyllis has moved on, and we should too.

[Apparently you haven't lived in the DC area long enough to spell Phyllis Richman correctly.]

You know, I've only lived here for not quite 30 years so I guess you're right. Howerver I only lived in Manhattan for 2 years and I managed to learn how to spell that. Too bad Phyllis moved on...guess they had to find someone to take her place...shame...maybe Frank Bruni will be looking for a job in a couple of years.

[ol_ironstomach]

You know, I've only lived here for not quite 30 years so I guess you're right. Howerver I only lived in Manhattan for 2 years and I managed to learn how to spell that.

Yes, you're very smart. Now can we put the pedantic chest-thumping act aside and return to the melodramatic pillorying of critics on their own merits? Thank you.

[qwertyy]

From today's review of EatBar: My reaction when I first read this was that it was among the more bizarre sentences I had ever read. After reflecting on it for a couple of minutes, I realized that Tom intended "the seeds and sprouts crowd" to denote non-meat-eaters. But that's still bizarre. And "gets some stroking"?

I gotta agree--this goes straight into my file of Very Bad Writing, which has historically been largely made up of stuff produced by the federal government.

I just will never understand what drives his need to inject a euphemism into Every. Single. Clause. Sometimes a vegetarian is just a vegetarian.

But in all fairness, this is an excellent description: "the fried ones [oysters] are so tiny they disappear inside their packaging. The result is fried batter with essence of bivalve..."

[bilrus]

I'm not one to normally take exception to Tom's reviews, but does this review of Vaso's Kitchen read like a two star review? The equal of, just looking at the most recent dining guide, Layalina, El Chalan, Hank's Oyster Bar, Del Merei Grill and even Colorado Kitchen and only a half star behind Ray's the Steaks and Corduroy?

Any review where you have to use phrases like:

• the word "decent" twice in the same paragraph
  
• "not everyone's a charmer"
  
• "tends to cook everything medium"
  
• "disappointment"
  
• "a trip back to the school cafeteria"
  
• "resist the impulse"
  
• "There's very little seafood on the menu, and that should tell you something"
  
• "limp spaghetti"
  
• "banquet fare"
  
• "served so cold one night that the grains appeared to have frostbite"
  

doesn't seem like a two star review to me. But maybe I'm just feeling grumpy tonight.

Has anyone been here to help reconcile Tom's words and stars?

[CrescentFresh]

doesn't seem like a two star review to me. But maybe I'm just feeling grumpy tonight.

Another possibility, Sleepyhead? You're smelling the coffee?

[Heather]

That is a one-star review at most.

[Waitman]

I'm not one to normally take exception to Tom's reviews, but does this review of Vaso's Kitchen read like a two star review? The equal of, just looking at the most recent dining guide, Layalina, El Chalan, Hank's Oyster Bar, Del Merei Grill and even Colorado Kitchen and only a half star behind Ray's the Steaks and Corduroy?

Any review where you have to use phrases like:

• the word "decent" twice in the same paragraph
  
• "not everyone's a charmer"
  
• "tends to cook everything medium"
  
• "disappointment"
  
• "a trip back to the school cafeteria"
  
• "resist the impulse"
  
• "There's very little seafood on the menu, and that should tell you something"
  
• "limp spaghetti"
  
• "banquet fare"
  
• "served so cold one night that the grains appeared to have frostbite"
  

doesn't seem like a two star review to me. But maybe I'm just feeling grumpy tonight.

Has anyone been here to help reconcile Tom's words and stars?

That is a one-star review at most.

What is this, the Duke Lit Crit and Deconstruction Club? The guy who wrote the review says it's a two star review: it's a two star review. Or....is that just what the ruling patriarchy would have me believe?

I am withholding judgment until Landrum, Kliman and Miami Danny weigh in. In the mean time, I'm boning up on my Derrida in case Frank Bruni's next three-star review of French-Algerian dining establishment in TriBeCa (Cafe Zahdi) is actually a 1-star Jeremiad against the forced ethnic and sexual conformity of the modern world which we conceal behind a veil of feigned sophistication and mock-tolerance.

[Pat]

That is a one-star review at most.

It sounds like he wanted to like it more than he did.

[Michael Landrum]

I am withholding judgment until Landrum, Kliman and Miami Danny weigh in.

Come taste the Vaso's difference!!!

[zoramargolis]

Come taste the Vaso's difference!!!

Perhaps you mean "vas deferens"-- oh, gee, what an offal joke.

[cjsadler]

From the Restaurant Local review on Sunday:

"a full page of bottles priced at $35 gives diners the sense that Local wants us to enjoy wine with our meal."

I'm not sure why reviewers regard "x bottles under x dollars" as obviously a good thing. Depends on the wines... if this a list of $8 bottles marked up to $35 (very often the case), an over 400% markup is no deal in my book.

[Waitman]

From the Restaurant Local review on Sunday:

I'm not sure why reviewers regard "x bottles under x dollars" as obviously a good thing. Depends on the wines... if this a list of $8 bottles marked up to $35 (very often the case), an over 400% markup is no deal in my book.

Though Tom does not claim to be a huge wine guy, I do think he knows enough to spot "bargain" wine lists loaded up in the bogus fashion you describe. And, given the amount of wine my friends and I can go through at a single sitting, I'm getting tired of places where wine prices basically start at $40 a bottle (especially when they're trying to position themselves as "mid-priced"), and appreciate the heads up on a place like Local.

[DLB]

I like matchbox, I really do. However, I don't understand why it has been reviewed three times! It has been reviewed every two years at this point.

[lackadaisi]

I like matchbox, I really do. However, I don't understand why it has been reviewed three times! It has been reviewed every two years at this point.

It does seem very odd, and not very helpful, to have a review that says that nothing has changed. Maybe it would be different if it were a high-end place that people save up to go to, or if it had somehow dropped off of people's radar. But, neither is true here. It is packed. It seems that in any given week, most people in the city have either gone or spoken to someone who has gone there, and the multitude of reviews are fairly consistent. What a waste of space and opportunity to highlight somewhere that maybe not everyone knows about.

[JPW]

This morning on WTOP, Bob Madigan previewed this week's review of a "well known restaurant" as being one star. Any thoughts? I think that it's still a little too early for Beck. New place? Established place? Where has he been seen recently?

[mdt]

This morning on WTOP, Bob Madigan previewed this week's review of a "well known restaurant" as being one star. Any thoughts? I think that it's still a little too early for Beck. New place? Established place? Where has he been seen recently?

Old Angler's Inn

[Waitman]

Old Angler's Inn

In 1977, a cousin took me to Old Angler's for a glass of wine on the patio and I found it very charming and cool I've been meaning to get back there ever since (well, ever since I got a little more money than I had back in the 70s) but I cannot ever remember a single review (and there have been many) that did not describe it as overpriced and under-performing. Too bad, it would be such a great place to relax at after negotiating the Billy Goat Trail.

[The Hersch]

Several long minutes pass before a grim-faced suit deems to rescue me from what feels like the lounge of a nursing home.

A grim-faced suit? Deems?

[cjsadler]

Too bad, it would be such a great place to relax at after negotiating the Billy Goat Trail.

The note about the tent out back serving ribs, brats and such was intriguing (for post-Billy Goat eats). Anyone been?

[Heather]

I cannot ever remember a single review (and there have been many) that did not describe it as overpriced and under-performing.

It's not interesting, or delicious, or a bargain. Yes, the old chef has recently returned, but the cooking there wasn't interesting when he was there the last time. It's only notable characteristic is longevity. What's the point of reviewing it?

[bilrus]

My only visit to Old Angler's Inn is remarkable in that it remains the worst, most unpleasant office Christmas dinner we've had in my eight years at my job. And multiple people have gotten food poisoning at two subsequent dinners that we still look back on with more fondness.

[chickenlover]

What are flossy greens? link

[Mark Slater]

What are flossy greens? link

It goes with the "cooks like a girl" theme, I guess.

[Banco]

What are flossy greens? link

Perhaps he meant to say "fleecy;" at least I hope he did. Otherwise, it's what I have between my teeth after a spinach salad.

Am I correct in saying that this is TS's first review above two stars in quite a while?

[The Hersch]

Am I correct in saying that this is TS's first review above two stars in quite a while?

Not all that long a while: He rated Central at three stars on March 25th. Before that, both Occidental and Pesce got 2 1/2 on February 18th.

[qwertyy]

Deems? Flossy greens? This isn't even an issue of style anymore. Where are the editors?

On a positive note, I really liked the conversation-starting first two paragraphs...

[The Hersch]

Deems? Flossy greens? This isn't even an issue of style anymore. Where are the editors?

Amen! At least with "deems" you could tell what word was meant ("deigns"). But flossy? Banco suggested fleecy, but fleecy greens? That doesn't make any sense either. Leafy, maybe, but that's even further from flossy than deigns is from deems.

[Pat]

Amen! At least with "deems" you could tell what word was meant ("deigns"). But flossy? Banco suggested fleecy, but fleecy greens? That doesn't make any sense either. Leafy, maybe, but that's even further from flossy than deigns is from deems.

Flossy would mean stringy. Maybe there are cooked greens meant to be stringy, but I'm not registering what they might be.