Ardeo and Bardeo, Cleveland Park Chef Alex McWilliams on Connecticut Avenue
#1
Posted 03 August 2005 - 04:21 PM
We started with the soft shell crab appetizer and the goat cheese and white asparagus salad. I should have known better. Asparagus season was over a few months ago. But it sounded good and refreshing, which was what I wanted. At first glance it looked like a mound of arugula. After some digging I found a few spears of what turned out to be pretty good white asparagus with a disk of goat cheese on one side and the marinated wild mushrooms on the other. Not bad, not great.
The soft shell appetizer was a tempura fried soft shell crab served on a corn risotto. My friend ordered the dish for the corn risotto, breaking the first rule of ordering: don't order for the accoutrement. The tempura fried soft shell was small but fine. Nicely fried but nothing to write home about. The corn risotto was more of a corn pilaf. It was served with some sort of sauce around the plate but I don't remember what.
At the end of the appetizers my friend had two comments: 1) the apps sounded great, were good, but I wouldn't order them again and 2) this reminds me of good dinner theater food.
Our mains went downhill. My linguine with English peas and prosciutto in a cream sauce was okay. Again, I should have known better since peas aren't in season. While eating it I kept thinking that I should be down the street checking out Dino's new meat slicer. When we traded plates my friend didn't even realize that it was prosciutto in the dish.
Our other main was vegetable lasagna with beet and basil essence. We checked before ordering and found out that the pasta was house made. We had a little hope. It ended up being two layers of decent pasta with the most pathetic vegetables I have seen in a while. Cauliflower, broccoli, beets, snow peas and broccoli rabe. Not a bad combination except it is the height of vegetable season and only one of those is good right now. Oh, and cherry tomatoes. The cherry tomatoes were the worst looking tomatoes I have seen lately, especially considering we are in tomato season. The dish was just sad. There was greatness to be had, but failure reigned.
We went down the street and apologized to our palates with a glass of wine and a cheese plate at Dino. Next time we'll go straight for the cheese. It's been a few years since I was last at Ardeo and I am sad to say that it is yet another restaurant that has let itself go downhill.
"...the craving of a Jew for pork, in particular when it has been deep-fried, is a force greater than night or distance or a cold blast off the Gulf of Alaska."
-Michael Chabon
#2
Posted 03 August 2005 - 04:33 PM
#3
Posted 03 August 2005 - 06:54 PM
[PS I strongly disagree with that hooey about not ordering based on accoutrements.
This post has been edited by JLK: 03 August 2005 - 07:06 PM
#4
Posted 03 August 2005 - 07:45 PM
JLK, on Aug 3 2005, 07:54 PM, said:
[PS I strongly disagree with that hooey about not ordering based on accoutrements.
could not agree with you more about bardeo. but i would add that i usually go late in service and have the cheese board and some wine, or just some wine at the bar. additionally bardeo, imho, has a more inviting, and sensual space than her big brother next door.
if you wouldn't use a cell phone in church, then why would you in a restaurant?
#5
Posted 03 August 2005 - 08:02 PM
#6
Posted 04 August 2005 - 01:03 PM
I'd say Ardeo is good for a nice meal if your in the area, but definitely not worth making a special trip across town.
#7
Posted 04 August 2005 - 01:19 PM
I'd put it in the "moderate" category. Not cheap, but also not a $50 brunch-at-the Ritz either.
#8
Posted 25 November 2005 - 10:34 PM
Ardeo did a pretty good job. They kept the menu reasonably limited and that may have helped. The pumpkin risotto itself was not all that inspiring, but the crispy duck confit sprinkled all over top was divine. Bites together were great. Mrs. TJ has some 'biscuits' with ham and oyster cream which smelled and tasted great. While Mrs. TJ opted for the traditional turkey thing, I went for some brisket with some herbed spaetzle. Very good. Very fall apart good and tasty. Desserts were just OK, but the coffee was GREAT. Bst cup of coffee at a restaurant that I have had in quite a while actually.
All in all an enjoyable meal.
#9
Posted 06 January 2006 - 10:09 AM
Lamb: Ple-e-e-se Li-i-i-sa I thought you lo-o-o-oved me, lo-o-o-oved me
Marge: Whats Wrong Lisa? Can't get enough lamb chops?
Lisa: I can't eat this, I can't eat a poor little lamb.
Homer: Lisa get a hold yourself!! That is lamb, not A lamb.
#10
Posted 06 January 2006 - 10:48 AM
#11
Posted 06 January 2006 - 11:01 AM
JLK, on Jan 6 2006, 10:48 AM, said:
My last visit was during the summer for brunch. Dinner might have been during the spring.
I guess you have to consider the law of averages, but they have been consistantly great every time we've been. And again, I'm not saying that they are on the same level as Palena's chicken , Maestro's or Eve's tasting menu, Jarad's creme brulee, etc, but I've been consistanly pleased with the selection and creativity
Lamb: Ple-e-e-se Li-i-i-sa I thought you lo-o-o-oved me, lo-o-o-oved me
Marge: Whats Wrong Lisa? Can't get enough lamb chops?
Lisa: I can't eat this, I can't eat a poor little lamb.
Homer: Lisa get a hold yourself!! That is lamb, not A lamb.
#12
Posted 15 February 2006 - 11:23 PM
Barman Dave spoke very highly of the new lobster dish. Also, General Manager Chad's semi-retirement was confirmed (which is old news, perhaps).
#13
Posted 16 February 2006 - 04:43 PM
JLK, on Feb 16 2006, 04:22 PM, said:
Well, I would GLADLY take Outkast playing at Ardeo over what I have to choose from here in Columbia!
Lamb: Ple-e-e-se Li-i-i-sa I thought you lo-o-o-oved me, lo-o-o-oved me
Marge: Whats Wrong Lisa? Can't get enough lamb chops?
Lisa: I can't eat this, I can't eat a poor little lamb.
Homer: Lisa get a hold yourself!! That is lamb, not A lamb.
#14
Posted 03 April 2006 - 10:33 AM
Yesterday's featured house baked lemon-poppy muffins, scones and superlative cream-cheese spiral danish pastries. $7 no less!, and rooftop patio seating.
Cheers to the new chef and pastry chef and baked cheese.
Jeers to fusel alcohol.
#15
Posted 13 June 2006 - 07:33 AM
#16
Posted 13 June 2006 - 10:25 AM
Speaking of Ardeo/Bardeo, I had the pleasure of dining at Ardeo over the weekend. On a Saturday evening, they filled up nicely without being obnoxiously crowded and loud. Everyone in my party of seven ordered something different so we were able to sample off of each other's plates. I had the mahi mahi - which is seared and served on top of a curried cous cous speckled with dried apricots and blanketed with delicate almond foam. The fish was done perfectly - very moist and flavorful. However, I do have to say that my friend's venison dish was the high point of the evening for me. The cashew/cardamom puree that it is served with is good enough to eat by itself or spread on a slice of bread. (that gives me an idea...)
The cheese plate truly is something for the chef to be proud of. I should start out by saying that it's larger than any cheese plate that I've ever seen. There were three hard cheeses, and three softer varieties. The soft were: a goat, a gorgonzola/bleu and a super stinky and delicious cows milk cheese that was too gooey to pick up with a fork (this one was my favorite). The harder cheeses were a sheep cheese (comparable to manchengo), a cheddar variety and something else that I don't recall because I was too busy gorging myself on the aforementioned ultra-gooey and stinky cheese. Fresh fruit, quince paste and toasted bread accompanied the cheesy deliciousness.
I'm not very big on sweets, but I'm glad that I didn't skip dessert this time around. We tried seven different desserts - a few of my favorite offerings were the strawberry soup with lavender flan, espresso semifreddo with homemade biscotti, and a peanut butter bomb with homemade cracker jacks. All were delicious but my personal favorite was the trio of sorbets: pineapple, passion fruit and a scoop of incrediblely refreshing orange sorbet that was literally bursting with flavor. I think that I would have been happy with just the cheese plate and a huge bowl of that orange sorbet.
I've always enjoyed the wine selection at both Ardeo and Bardeo...you really can't go wrong! Thankfully, our server (Brian) knew what he was talking about when it came to "the juice" so that helped us make informed choices when pairing bottles with our food. Overall, we had a great meal and were pleasantly surprised at how affordable it was, considering the quality of the food.
I'll definitely be back...though, next time, I'm going to try their brunch.
#17
Posted 15 June 2006 - 10:14 PM
So, after an unusual and entertaining evening of beer, pickled cheese, and marionettes at a nearby embassy, Mr. P and I were feeling a bit peckish and in the mood to hang out by ourselves for awhile. So we jogged 'round the corner for Palena, which still had a twenty minute wait at 9:00 tonight.
Foolishly unwilling to wait, we walked another few blocks to Ardeo, where everything was fine. Fine, but...
First, I ordered a Manhattan. I probably would have enjoyed it more if my previous restaurant Manhattan hadn't been made by the wonderful Tom Brown at Agraria. Come to think of it, before that my last Manhattan was made by Dishy Derek at Firefly. So, this was a very nice Manhattan, but nothing in comparison to whta's made by the Brothers Brown.
Next, fries. Mr. P was in the mood for fries - probably because we were denied at Palena. How were they? Fine, but they suffered by comparison - Mr. P was thinking Palena fries, and I, nursing my drink and thinking of Dishy Derek, was thinking of Firefly's fries.
Then we shared scallops. Six months ago Mr P wouldn't touch the things. Then, Michael Hartzer worked some magic, and now Mr P can't get enough of the second class treatment at Ray's. Heck, when we were at Corduroy a week ago, we even switched entrees so that he could have my scallops! How were Ardeo's? Fine, but... well, you get the drift. Now Mr P is dying to go back to RTS for the seafood.
It's a shame, because if we weren't so spoiled by the damn fine food we've had recently, we would have really enjoyed Ardeo. It was good. But it just wasn't good enough.
But there was hope for dessert.
fast cars, slow food
"tea is soothing; I wish to be tense"
#18
Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:07 AM
#20
Posted 26 February 2007 - 04:45 PM
Quote
#21
Posted 27 June 2007 - 10:53 PM
#22
Posted 07 August 2007 - 12:33 PM
KeithA, on Aug 7 2007, 01:27 PM, said:
I've always been a big fan of Ardeo. What did you get?
Lamb: Ple-e-e-se Li-i-i-sa I thought you lo-o-o-oved me, lo-o-o-oved me
Marge: Whats Wrong Lisa? Can't get enough lamb chops?
Lisa: I can't eat this, I can't eat a poor little lamb.
Homer: Lisa get a hold yourself!! That is lamb, not A lamb.
#23
Posted 07 August 2007 - 12:55 PM
mhberk, on Aug 7 2007, 01:33 PM, said:
Apps:
- Asaparagus and Goatcheese fried thingy (it was kind of like a light eggroll batter) with a salad of mixed greens (nicely dressed and pretty peppery) all on top of a great tasting grilled piece of fennel. It also had some kind of dressing that had me sopping it up with bread.
- Also had a bite of others mixed green salads which were ok - just like a bigger version of the salad part I had.
- I didn't try but the calamari looked good. It is not fried but rather cooked and marinated with I think a citrus relish. I heard only hmm hmm hmm from across the table.
- Lamb loin and shoulder. Very good and different. Really a duo of lamb. A small piece of loin with a nice seared crust on on side and some small sliced pieces that went well with the blackberry gastric sauce. The second part of the duo is the shoulder which is kind of like a mini hamburger - molded meat - but mixed with carrots and veggies. The loin was good, the shoulder only ok. It also comes with a great piece of eggplant rolled around some marinated chopped veggies.
- My wife had the Steak which is big and cooked perfect. nice char flavor. Comes with creamy mash potatos and a nice reduction sauce to dip.
- Others enjoyed the halibut and the gnocci (very tiny, very soft little pillows with lots of veggies).
- My sweet tooth won out so I tried all 4. The best was probably the cherry cheesecake. It is a cross between American and Italian cheesecake - softer and less dense, but not all riccota-like. Great with the fruit.
- Pear-upside down cake with caramel sauce and butter pecan ice cream was very good. The ice cream was great. The cake was moist and covered in pecans so it had more of nutty flavor than a fruity one. I couldn't really tell it was pear, but it didn't matter
- Chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream. Cake is BIG and a little dry. It is kind of like a molten cake but the outside could use a swipe through the ice cream or chocolate syrup on the plate.
- Trio of sorbet. 3 big scoops last night of ginger-citron (too tart for me, but wife loved it), "blueberry herb" which is really good but heavy on the basil flavor with a fruit finish, and rasberry.
#24
Posted 08 August 2007 - 09:02 AM
KeithA, on Aug 7 2007, 01:55 PM, said:
Thanks Keith. Looks like a great meal!!
Lamb: Ple-e-e-se Li-i-i-sa I thought you lo-o-o-oved me, lo-o-o-oved me
Marge: Whats Wrong Lisa? Can't get enough lamb chops?
Lisa: I can't eat this, I can't eat a poor little lamb.
Homer: Lisa get a hold yourself!! That is lamb, not A lamb.
#25
Posted 30 July 2008 - 09:55 AM
#26
Posted 25 November 2008 - 10:44 AM
#27
Posted 11 September 2009 - 12:50 PM
I was sitting at the bar at Bardeo, and ordered a glass of 2000 Verdu ($8, but discounted to $6 since it was before 7 PM). This Chateau Verdu is a nine-year-old Saint-Emilion from a great vintage, and $6 for a Bordeaux at this level (Bardeo gives large pours in good stemware) is almost unheard of. Unfortunately, they’re down to their last couple of bottles – this was probably a remnant of a distributor-closeout nabbed by Brent Kroll, who recently left Ardeo to become sommelier at its sister restaurant, The Oval Room.
As I waited, I noticed a young girl in chef’s whites walking over. She plopped something down in front of me, and said, “Here’s something to tide you over while you wait - it’s just a tuna slider.” I was caught off-guard and thanked her, then she left and I asked the bartender to make sure it got on the bill. After awhile, I cut it in half, tried it, and thought to myself, “huh?"
After awhile, the check was paid, and I found myself back over at Ardeo. I was extremely uncomfortable, mainly because I pretty much dissed Bombay Club just last week, and I don’t think Ashok Bajaj was very happy to see me. Still, I try to stay neutral, retain a sense of detachment, and just call ‘em like I see ‘em. My biggest fear was that this meal was going to be lousy, and I‘d have to do it again. I’d never tried Alex McWilliams’ menu (he just arrived about ten months ago), and as it turns out, he wasn’t even working, so I was at the mercy of the sous chef.
I ordered a bottle of 2006 Furst Pinot Gris ($36), and began nursing a glass. Suddenly, the young girl in chef’s whites appeared again with two plates. "“Here'’s a little amuse-bouche for you,” she said. It was an omelette of roasted tomato, fontina, and summer truffle. And then she disappeared back into the kitchen again.
Our wonderful server Alvaro came over, and said "it's something she improvised." There was a storm on the horizon.
Citrus Cured Scallops ($10), pineapple condiment, dehydrated ginger, and zenzero oilo
Peeky-Toe Crab Salad ($13), grapefruit gelee, avocado, micro mizuna
I thought sure Tony Conte had a hand in this menu, but Alvaro assured us that the menu was all Alex McWilliams. I was a little skeptical, because many items on this menu aren’t very “safe,” but the second the appetizers were brought out, all fears melted away. Both dishes were beautifully plated, and remarkable both for their individual components and the way they all knitted together. The grapefruit gelee in the peeky-toe salad in particular made the Pinot Gris soar. Although there are clear and distinct differences between these dishes and some of Conte’s, a comparison is both inevitable and legitimate, given that he works for the same company and that he loves serving cold shellfish salads. These were fantastic salads that absolutely held their own in comparison.
At this point, especially thinking back to the tuna slider and the omelette, I was pretty much dazzled, but I refused to remain optimistic.
“Why not, Don?”
“Because hot, larger plates were about to come, and that’s a big weed-out.”
Seared Ahi Tuna ($14), smoked tea crust, carnaroli rice and foraged mushroom cakes
Roasted Trout ($13), brussels sprout leaves, baby turnips, heirloom apple puree
A knife-fight ensued over the trout when these dishes arrived, but that’s only until I took a bite of the incredible tea-encrusted tuna. There was no doubt about it: A genius was in the kitchen, and was plating our food. These dishes were even better than the ones before, and I was in absolute awe of what I was experiencing. Who is this girl? Who is she and where did she come from?
After the course was finished, I asked Alvaro if the chef wouldn’t mind coming out to the table. A few minutes later, she arrived, and I did everything but bow down in front of her and kiss the ground. I asked her if she’d make one more dish, anything she wanted to make – I was not ready for this dinner to end.
She went back into the kitchen, and about fifteen minutes later, she arrived with two plates: “Braised beef short ribs with carrots and zucchini, served with their own sauces,” she said. It sounds so simple, doesn’t it, but then again so does brushing paint against a canvas, or running a bow across a violin string. This was a dish that would make any chef in the city shake their heads in disbelief. An exercise in simplicity and symmetry and perfect execution. How can grilled zucchini be so good? How can its own sauce be even better? There was nothing about this dish that I would have changed, and it was the crowning achievement on what was the best cooking I’ve had in recent memory.
She grew up in Chicago, in a restaurant family, her parents owning a chain of taco joints. She got sidetracked in cooking school, because she was offered a Chef de Cuisine position where she began attracting crowds and getting good reviews. She moved to the DC area with her husband a year ago, and has been quietly working as Sous Chef at Ardeo ever since.
I thanked her profusely for giving us her best stuff on this relatively slow evening. She smiled, but she didn’t say you’re welcome; “You didn’t get my best stuff,” she said, with a look of quiet confidence.
If someone were to ask me, last week, off the top of my head, who our city’s greatest chefs are under the age of 30, I would have been able to quickly name two: Johnny Monis from Komi, and Logan Cox from New Heights
But now I can name a third - someone who might be every bit their equal in the kitchen, someone with superstar potential who seems, at least to me, destined for greatness. One of our city’s most promising talents: the extraordinary 27-year-old wonderchild from Chicago, Diana Dávila Boldin.
This is a strong post about a meal that I should probably recuse myself from writing about. On the bill, there was a missing charge for one of the short ribs, although I suppose they could have been considered tasting portions, and there was no charge at all for a subsequent dessert course. A dollar-for-dollar addition was left on the tip.
A few years ago, one of my best friends was torn about buying a car. He was looking at a used BMW 528i, absolutely loved it, and asked me for advice. "My one hesitation," he said, "is that everyone around here drives a BMW, and I don't feel like being one of the herd."
"BMW is the real deal," I said. "It's a great car, and if you don't buy it because of 'image,' then you're just as superficial as people who do." Forget I wrote this about Ardeo if you will, but please, remember I said this about Diana. It would be wrong of me not to.
Cheers,
Rocks.
ETA - I found some articles about Diana's old restaurant, Hacienda Jalapenos: Chicago Sun-Times, Metromix (by the Chicago Tribune critic).
#28
Posted 25 September 2009 - 01:27 PM
One thing that really struck us was that the restaurant was completely empty (bar 1 table) at 9.15....
What Am I Listening To?
#29
Posted 26 September 2009 - 08:08 AM
#30
Posted 04 October 2009 - 01:06 PM
It was Don's recent write-up that caused me to chose Ardeo for a very rare dinner out. Open Table said no tables within 2 hours of either side of 7:30 on Saturday or Sunday, but having found that Open Table may not have all tables available for reservations, I picked up the phone and called. I was glad I did. What an immensely gracious voice at the other end of the phone. Now, some of you know who that was, but I didn't. I was able to book for 2 at 7:30 on Saturday.
On Saturday afternoon, that same woman called to confirm my reservation (WOW - shades of Danny Meyer! I didn't know that such professionalism existed in this area, but then, I don't have the luxury of fine dining much, so apologies to any other restaurant I might have slighted). But it wasn't just that they confirmed, it was the warmth of that voice. It was clear that this restaurant values its customers.
At the door, I met the owner of that voice and it was none other than the famed Rissa Pagsibigan. She was so delightful and greeted me - a total stranger, as I've never been to Inox and she wasn't there on the two nights I visited the original Cordoroy - as a valued repeat customer. Every restaurant owner in town should send his maitre d' and other hosting staff to Ardeo for a meal to see how it SHOULD be done. She should open a school to train hosting staff. I have never in my life felt so welcome.
During the meal, she stopped by to check on us and chat.
The food was every bit as terrific as Rocks reported. I had the pear and dandelion salad, which made my mouth very happy. It was perfectly balanced and flavorful. Getting the ripeness of pears right is hard to do - in most cases, they are served hard and underripe in restaurants and sometimes they are mushy. These were just right - firm and full of flavor, so they held their own against the peppery dandelions. I also had the scallops cured in citrus (two apps rather than a main) and this was also perfectly balanced. It was such a beautiful plate, with the thinly sliced scallops lined up along a rectangular plate dotted with the ginger, pineapple condiment, and microgreens. I had the gelato drizzled with honey for desert - a small scoop of creamy gelato, accompanied by terrific spice cookies and chocolate truffles (real truffles - ganache balls rolled in cocoa power, not those hard-shelled, filled things).
Overall, service was as good as it gets - polite, professional, unobtrusive. The waiter was very patient with us as we chatted instead of getting to the menu. They were very patient with us even though we took two full hours during prime time, and had only two apps and one main (and one desert) between us.
This is fine dining. It is going to be really hard to resist making this the go-to on every one of the rare occasions when we go out!
Ellen
(heading back to the foxhole)
#31
Posted 04 October 2009 - 08:32 PM
I had the crab cakes as my main course. The two dollar coin size cakes were incredible... the crab top-notch and the fresh corn a welcome change from breading. I had a half glass of a really nice Babcock pinot noir with my main course. I could not have been happier. My friends had a pasta dish that was nice and the skirt steak that looked great.
Oh and Rissa P. is the new GM...
#32
Posted 10 November 2009 - 08:55 PM
So, wow what really wonderful food at Ardeo tonight. Even the salads (one with dandelion, pear and a rose-flavored vinaigrette, the other a plain old mixed green) were delicious and flavorful. Trout, gnocchi, tea-smoked tuna, yellow bean fondue, all great. Yum. (All of the above, after the salads, were the "medium plates"; the waiter suggested getting more of these rather than fewer entrees, and I think this was a good suggestion.)
#33
Posted 07 March 2010 - 09:36 PM
#34
Posted 03 April 2010 - 10:31 AM
DonRocks, on 11 September 2009 - 01:50 PM, said:
But now I can name a third - someone who might be every bit their equal in the kitchen, someone with superstar potential who seems, at least to me, destined for greatness. One of our city’s most promising talents: the extraordinary 27-year-old wonderchild from Chicago, Diana Dávila Boldin.
According to Tom Sietsema, she's going to Jackie's.
#35
Posted 25 April 2010 - 03:04 PM


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