Kanishka

Ouch. FWIW, there's a lot of things people don't seem to get about the realities of an evacuation. Not an excuse, absolutely not, but its very, very complicated. In general, and particularly in this situation. K

I tried to go to Indique with a group of five this Saturday at seven PM, and I have never had such impolite service. We never ended up seated -- the host informed us that a table for five would be impossible without a reservation, unless we wanted to sit outside. With the ominous clouds, we declined. But we left a restaurant that was about half full -- seats everywhere!! I acknowledge the fact that five or six tops without reservations are annoying. But the way the host reacted to us (dismissive, impolite, almost as if we were not worthy of eating at the restaurant) made me very angry. Particularly unfortunate because I really like Indique and when these last minute plans came together, I picked that restaurant right away. We ended up having mediocre pan-Asian food at Spices, after trying Dino and being told it would be difficult to be seated. The difference -- the good folks at Dino were polite and kind when telling us that it would be hard to be seated, and Dino was packed. No hard feelings with them, I understand. Indique? That's another matter. Here's a hint: when saying "no, I'm sorry, that's not possible" ... don't be a dick. K

Emirates Air has to have some of the best business class food I've had in a while. Of particular note was the smoked salmon and creme fraiche starter I had on my flight from Dubai to London -- the first piece of smoked salmon I've had in some time, with a light piece of pumpernickel toast and some great capers. The chicken biriyani (which I had, to confound things, with a nice buttery chardonnay) from Karachi to Dubai was some of the tastiest I'd had the pleasure of enjoying in Pakistan (I was still over their airspace, okay), nice and spicy without inducing any stomach distress. Contrast this with the veggie omelette I had on United from London to Dulles. Tasteless, watery omelette with barely seasoned tomato and pepper stuffing. It was pretty poor quality. Overall, Emirates was a wonderful airline to fly. In business class, I think the meal service is one of the primary determining factors, and they really showed their stuff. The in flight entertainment, wherein I played Arkanoid on the stretch from Iran to Bulgaria, also didn't hurt. Kanishka

As Pat can attest to, I loved this place (past tense because, well, its been a while). But that had nothing to do with the food, which definitely got expensive over the two years I darkened the bar's doors. The bar staff (not, repeat not the wait staff) were always great to me and knew what they were doing. The brunches were always okay with the occasional good dish, but otherwise, well, it was just alright for food. Fun during football, and surprisingly fun late at night with the right rowdy crowd, believe it or not. Also, I don't think it's a dive at all, though the place needs to get over its schizophrenia and decide what it wants to be. Personally, I think it would function much better as a dive (like it apparently did before my time).

Dulles IS a nightmare!!! Compared to the luxuriousness of Heathrow, I can't believe it. (Man, I really have sold out for saying this kind of thing. What happened to the bearded hostel guy I once was??) United's business class meal was definitely not as good as British Airways, which is what I took from Heathrow to Islamabad. They had a delicious terrine that I think was asparagus based, as well as some wonderful munchies (a cheese and pickle sandwich stands out in my mind) that we had before landing in I'bad. I think that what really sold it -- as you've noted -- was the real silverware. Wow, what a luxury. Also, it should be noted that the Pakistan Airways mutton curry I had when going to Karachi (in Economy Class) was actually quite delicious. The mistake I made was not going with local cuisine on the flight back. Finally healthy, Kanishka

If you have reason to find yourself in one of the urban centers of Pakistan, you will still be able to satisfy your Donut fix. Islamabad has 3 (3!) branches of the chain, and they serve up a very authentic tasting rendition of the Dunkin Donuts chocolate covered chocolate donut, a personal favorite. They also serve chai. I did not choose to get a donut at the DDs in the Karachi airport as I was not hungry. I truly, truly regret this decision, because I got hungry at 30,000 feet above sea level and had a Pakistan International Airways chicken salad sandwich. From that experience, I have one piece of advice: if you value the health of your greater digestive system, do not eat a Pakistan International Airways chicken salad sandwich. On my fifth can of ginger ale today, Kanishka PS: Don, what do you think of starting an airline food thread? I'm sure we've got some frequent fliers that read this board, and though there's already resource for that kind of thing online, I'd enjoy reading the opinions of the gastronauts here (Joe H -- I'm looking at you. Seriously.)

Would you believe that I had some of the finest Lebanese food I have ever had in, of all places, Islamabad, capitol of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan? Majlis, located in Islamabad's F6/3 sector on Street 3 (sidenote: its like this city was designed by a computer. And not a superfast, sleek machine. I'm talking pre-Wang, vacuum tube even.) is very difficult to find. Its hidden away from all the commercial areas and crawling with security. Which makes sense, because its a haven for the cornucopia of diplomat types all over this city (even the North Koreans have a mission here. Not to mention the Northern Cypriots!). But basically, search for the big house surrounded by parked cars that looks way to busy to be a residence (there's no sign -- this place is basically a secret place. An open secret, but come on this is Pakistan.) The restaurant interior is quite attractive, boasting Raj-era styled opulent decor and some damn fine bathrooms. You have the option to sit outdoors in the garden -- which is an attractive option during these months when the weather in the Margalla foothills is at its most beautiful. Confused by the disconnect between your words for meze and what's on the menu? That's because here in the IRP very few things directly correspond to Western concepts (I'm reminded of a rather odd "Irish Stew" I had recently that was served on basmati rice of all things). It's the land of not-quite-right. Lump that on to the fact that the Pakistanis have a rather liberal interpretation of spelling and grammar rules and you've got one confusing menu. No matter -- just order one of everything except for the radish pickle (which was horribly horribly salty). The highlights were the dolmades (not dolmades on the menu -- go by the descriptions), the babaganoush, the kibbeh (thankfully also called kibbeh in the Land of NQR), and the bread -- not pita, but lavash. The dolmades and babaganoush were incredibly fresh and were significantly more flavorful than domestic versions I have had. The main dishes -- a variety of kabobs -- are not what kabobs are served like in the States. Again, the bread is different, with more of a paratha-like texture and flavor. The dishes are heavily, heavily spiced externally without being excessively hot. I had their "special" kabob, a ground blend of lamb and beef served with roasted tomatoes. It wasn't as delicious as the meze, but not too shabby. I would have liked more spice in the meat itself instead of atop the dish as an afterthought. Like many high-end restaurants here in the IRP, Majlis has a rather interesting alcohol policy. Alcohol is technically illegal here, but foreigners and connected Pakistanis can obtain drinks through various means, some clandestine and some nominally so. If you want to drink with your meal, you can bring wine (wrapped and hidden so no one is offended) and furtively hand your bottle(s) to the waiter, who will return with the wine poured in a juice decanter. You'll be handed wineglasses, and in the unlikely event that the police raid the establishment (about as likely as you can get here) the staff will claim you are just drinking non-alcoholic grape juice, a popular beverage here. Just don't confuse the waiter with pairings, different wines, or frankly anything more than one bottle. I haven't tried it myself, but I suspect you are asking for disaster. There are a couple non-booze related downsides to Majlis. The major one is the service, which bordered on absolutely abysmal, even by Pakistan standards. Waiters forgot who received what dish, disappeared without refilling our water multiple times, and at one point I simply got up and grabbed spare napkins and cutlery myself. There's also the fact that one is dining in Pakistan, but I won't go into that much. The upside? Seven of us ate a delicious meal -- not a fantastic one, see above paragraph -- with ten courses of meze and an entree each (and four large bottles of water) for 7000 rupees. The current exchange rate is going at around 60 rupees to the dollar. I leave it to you to do the math. Did I like the meal simply because I am here, a zillion miles from reality? I discussed this with colleagues and have come to the conclusion that the answer is no. This food at Majlis was authentically good, not just good in the "I miss home" sort of way. Though this entry is largely written for posterity's sake (I don't have any realistic expectation DR.com readers will find themselves here, though one should never say never!), in the case that the unlikely happens, get a good driver and head over to Majlis. Be prepared to wait a bit, and feel free to break some of the rules of dining yourself -- in the Land of NQR, you never know what you can get away with. From a land far, far away, where I am being serenaded by crowing roosters, birdsong, and the call to morning prayer, I bid you adieu. Kanishka

There's a silver lining to this possible cloud, and that is the fact that it is definitely not hard to walk in to Ray's and get a seat right now -- given rational expectations. My companion and I walked in to Ray's yesterday evening at 6 PM, waited about 10 minutes, and found ourselves with a seat with no problems. I had the cajun ribeye, which was meaty and definitely not overseasoned -- the cajun-ness didn't make the steak unnecessarily spicy but instead gave it a gentle kick that didn't overpower the ribeye itself. My dining companion had the filet mignon with mushroom cream sauce, which I snagged a bite of and can say was very good. I didn't have enough to say more, but observational evidence (she tried to get all of the sauce up with the mashed potatoes after finishing the filet) suggests she enjoyed the dish. We started with a bowl of onion soup -- not your traditional french onion, but also very good. The broth was dotted with little bits of beef that were savory goodness. We also split a Caesar salad, which was, well, a basic caesar salad. I kind of wish I had ordered the bisque instead, but I felt like something green to start. Oh yeah -- the creamed spinach last night was also very good, with a texture that was just the right balance between spinach and the cream. I personally didn't have the mashed potatoes but I am told they were very good. No matter what the deal with Ray's future is, anyone so inclined should get over there posthaste. Put your name on the list and enjoy the nice weather outside, wait for Landrumm to call you in, and have a great meal. Its worth it. K

I really like shad roe but can totally understand people who don't -- the texture is indeed pretty close to liver, but combined with some good smoky bacon it can be delicious. Hank's version was tasty when I had it, cooked to just the right texture. That's no small feat. In fact, I think the bacon was the weak point in the dish!

As far as stale goes, Prof. Cowen doesn't seem to update his listing with restaurants that have closed, but does add new places. At least that is my impression. He's got some good choices (I like his opinion on Ethiopian restos) but I don't think his guide is all that great for anything other than a guide to what kinds of food you can get where -- the numerous ethnic varieties available in the city and burbs.

From limbo here in Courthouse, Earl's has been a favorite stop on the way to "Whole Paycheck". This Monday the girl and I stopped in and I grabbed their version of a turkey salad sandwich, which was different from any other turkey or chicken salad I've had. I believe there were various types of peppers thrown in to the mix with the customary celery, giving the sandwich a strong tang. The roast pork sandwich with garlic mayo was likewise delicious. The shop is not without its pitfalls. I wish I had known to get the buns toasted before the sad realization that they were a bit heavy with the condiments. Worse, I wish they had a better selection of beverages -- which may come in time. Still, it's a great place to grab lunch. Hoorah for independent sandwich shops.

The lady and I went to Creme Saturday night and had a meal that was very good -- perhaps signaling that this U St. spot has worked the kinks out pretty well. I had the Dark n Stormy, while she drank the Caipirinha. The Dark and Stormy was delicious and satisfied my craving for ginger ale, while Marisa's caipirinha was, in her words, good "having not had one before." For entrees I had the truly delicious shrimp and grits. The Andouille was spicy -- and this is spicy for me, a guy who likes his pho orange. The shrimp were perfectly cooked and the grits had all the butter a man could ask for. I wish I had butter to sop up the broth. The date had the "Mary's Charge," a roast shank of lamb with a side of ground lamb. She was incredibly pleased with the lamb. It is rare that she comments after two or three bites of a meal, but there she was, remarking at how good the dinner was. I had tastes of both parts... the ground lamb tasted almost South Asian (fenugreek?) while the lamb was a combination of savory and sweet that is not one of my personal favorite flavors -- though it is the lady's. The shank was topped with a spiced combination of apple that was quite nice. My one quibble with Creme is that it seems too "New York City" -- though I do love the loungey house music, I prefer it away from dinner. But the kind service from the bartender and the quality of the food more than made up for this quibble. Yes Creme is loud. Yes it is hard to get a seat. But the food seemed, after one visit, delicious while being friendly on the wallet. Given current circumstances, I hope I get a chance to go back. But not in less than a year. K

I contend that the Bagel Place is one of the best places for a bagel in the Metro DC area. And a second on the Kimi and Phil's China Cafe recommendation. I'm also a sucker for Udupi Palace in Langley Park (up 193 away from Greenbelt, on the left) which, despite Rocks love for Woodlands, has for my money the best dosa around these parts. Hmm... it is a shame that Mandalay is now gone. That would be a top suggestion otherwise. [former Terp here too] K

Jennifer, you were at Palena tonight as well? I was there, doomed to one of the side tables in the rear, and enjoyed a fabulous meal]. Not mentioned in my blog post, the deliciousness of the Sicilian Martini, Marisa's "Lily" (Prosecco and Pomegranate juice) and later, my Manhattan. Yum. We later had a jenga-type contest with the pumpkin and goat cheese cake, to see who would make the cake "tower" tower. I won. Oh, and MelGold was also spotted there tonight. Quite a night for Rockwellers out and about. K

I remember a sad Sunday night when my Dad was in town for a conference. I was planning on taking him to Matchbox for some good bar food, but alas it was closed. Before I knew what was happening, we were eating at RFD. I drank Sam Adams Light and had one of the worst chicken sandwiches ever (read: dry meat, soggy bun, lifeless fries). Return? Definitely not to eat.

Zaytinya could be fun -- if you're looking for something a little more loud. If its a weeknight, all the better. And how about Indique? K

As has been pointed out, the letter not only got the name of the restaurant incorrect, but had a pretty ugly typo. Is it at all possible that the email is a hoax? Those two mistakes are pretty unlawyerly. Just a theory. Jason, what do you think? K

Is that "place near the zoo" you refer to Palena? If so, I have to say she's pretty great. I've got a serious weakness for the bartenders at Tunnicliffs, but that's because they've transcended the bartender/friend barrier.

So as the "on a whim" thread indicates, I did indeed go to Palena for an early dinner on Wednesday. The cafe at 6 was fairly empty, and I bellied up to the bar determined not to surrender to desire and order the hamburger and fries. My first course was, as recommended, the minestrone. Lately I've had a major fennel jones and this soup satisfied that, and then some. The broth was rich and the meatballs were out of this world. No noodles, and not that Campbells over-basiled dreck you get when you order minestrone. I think I slurped down my soup a bit too noisily, but it was really just too good to not do so. Second course was the sausage and bacon (see "desire to eat as much pork as possible"). I can remember neither the formal name for it or the 4th accompaniment (green sauce being the third). 7/8 of the dish were delicious. The green sauce, as usual, worked well with the meat. The homemade sausage was slightly spicy and well seasoned, while the homemade bacon was so delicious that I wanted to ask for seconds. Here I was expecting bacon like you see on Palena's awesome BLT. Instead, I got a cube of deliciously marbled pork belly. Good god was it delicious -- especially when tasted with the lentils (was it lentils?). There was a green vegetable that topped the lentils, and I'm tempted to say it was fennel again. This was the one down note, as it was a little too salty for me. That changed when I ate it with the smoky-sweet bacon, so all is forgiven. Dinner was washed down with a couple glasses of Jessie's Grove Zinfandel, which I always enjoy. The diners next to me tempted me to no end by ordering burgers and fries and sighing contentedly after each bite, but when my meal came out I decided my fortitude was worth it. Palena's burger and fries are delicious, but a guy has to branch out every once in a while. Special thanks to Arritty (Sp?) the bartender who was doing triple duty as the only waiter for the front. I hope at least some of your customers were nice to you. After dinner I went to the Uptown Tavern with some friends and drank way too many cans of PBR. To congratulate myself for being strong.

Off to Palena tomorrow -- I'll probably be there kind of early (6ish), in a suit, at the bar, reading The Best Food Writing 2005 (congrats to Monica Bhide). I so cannot wait! K

Any notable restaurant closings other than Komi in the post Christmas period? I'm in minimal grocery mode and planning on hitting some spots in the next few weeks. Can't restaurateurs sacrifice their personal lives and needs for one individual, just this once? Pretty please?

Please, please, please let Komi open before January 17th. I've let this one go for far too long and seriously regret it.

Saturday night took me to Corduroy for what was another great meal on my own a bientô tour of DC. I've posted something longer with a few asides on my personal blog, but I want to put a word in for the seared ahi tuna on sushi rice, which was one of the best dishes I've had this year. I've had rice before. Tons of it. At least four times a week growing up, in dozens of different cuisines. But the sushi rice I enjoyed at Corduroy was the best rice I think I've ever had. It was presented as a base, but despite the deliciousness of the tuna (seared perfectly, delicious pepper crust, absolutely excellent on its own) it was the highlight of the plate. The spicing -- a spike of soy, it seemed, seaweed, shiso, and something I couldn't put my finger on -- was superb. The texture rivalled any rice I've had at finer Japanese restaurants. Paired with the tuna, the dish was out of this world. I've woken up many mornings thinking of something I'd eaten the night before -- but rice has never been the primary thought. I could go on and on, but Doctor, if the seared tuna is on the menu I could not recommend it more highly. I thought I'd be upset, what with the pork belly not on the bar menu. I was wrong, and quite happily so! Thanks, btw, to Ferhat and Rissa for saying hello. It was nice to see you both again -- I hope to return for the pork belly before I leave town! (edited to add: here's a link to my blog entry if anyone is interested) K

Ahh Ray's. The greatest thing that DR.com has given me so far has been a seat at the dinner in December, where I will get to treat my girl to some awesome steak for her birthday and get to hang out with a select few of my fellow Rockwellians before leaving for Pak. So I left it off, intentionally. It's already locked in! I guess I should asterisk the statement "the greatest thing DR.com has given me" to say that the Eve dinner was phenomenal -- but the timing for the Ray's dinner is awesome. Corduroy is one of the restaurants I KNEW I was missing. It is now on the list and I cannot wait! Two Amys is there definitely... I am going to hear Handel's Messiah at the Cathedral (one of my non-food related "things to do in DC") and will do the 'za at Two Amys prior or after, depending on my schedule. Keep it coming peeps. I appreciate it. And if any of you need housing in Pak for a visit... K

Two months. I'm off to the third world in two frickin' months. When I come back, my wallet will be significantly fatter -- but for now, on a starting bureaucrat's salary, I'm lucky to make enough to support my Eastern Market habit. So here's the big question: with the holidays coming, I'm more than a little strapped. But I want to go out in style. I've decided to do this by enjoying a few evenings at some of the more moderately priced places in DC, saving trips to Laboratorio, Citronelle, CityZen, etc. for my return. Here's the list of restaurants I'm thinking of -- not where I'm gonna go, but the list I'll use to draw up my initial itinerary. The list is both favorites and places I have never visited, DCcentric since I'm scared of NoVa. Suggested cuts or additions? You guys should be able to come up with plenty, and I welcome them. Special consideration given, BTW, for spots that do seafood (esp. sushi) and pork particularly well. No lunches, since I'm not able to get out of training and enjoy a good lunch, ever. And no Indian/Pakistani restaurants, obviously. The Never Visited Sushi Ko Acadiana Colorado Kitchen Palena's Back Room Buck's Fishing and Camping The Favorites Sonoma Kotobuki Palena's Cafe Kaz Sushi Bistro Two Amy's Zaytinya Mandalay Have at it, Rockwellians. Oh, and if you need suggestions for places to eat in Pakistan, get in touch with me in a few. I hear the KFCs over there are particularly delicious (seriously), though they have a penchant for getting blown up. K