Tujague

A comment on Sietsema's chat today regarding a floor manager at Spezie reprimanding a server within earshot of diners reminds me that I witnessed at least a couple of such instances also during our dinner last night. Obviously, it wasn't so bad as to spoil our meal, but it did strike me as crude--the floor manager seemed to show blatant disregard for the sort of impression that this would make. Another example of the sort of refinement and discipline in service that Spezie needs to develop, Restaurant Week or not.

My partner and I went to Spezie last night for Restaurant Week (and FWIW, I booked it several weeks before Sietsema's 2.5 star review). This is one of the restaurants that I've been aware of for a long time, but never heard anything that compelled me to make it a priority, except a few refs here and there to it being much improved after its makeover last year. RW seemed as good a time as any to check it out. Given the quality of the meal we had last night, I'm a bit shocked that the most recent posts on this board date back to October, though I suspect the WaPo review will put it on more people's radar. With Cesare Lanfranconi as the chef, it's not surprising that the menu is reminiscent of Tosca, though Spezie's digs are far less elegant. Indeed, I think there at least a few items on the menu that are the same (or nearly) as I remember at Tosca. For RW, Spezie is offering a very full menu; since I haven't been here before this, I can't compare it to the regular dinner offerings, but for the first two courses there was a quite varied selection of at least a dozen choices each, with no upcharges, and five choices for the dessert. We aimed for some of the dishes that TS highlighted in his review, and he was pretty much on the mark in his assessment. I had the fritto misto as the appetizer, and it was perhaps the best rendition of that warhorse I've had in this city (far better than what Johnny's Half-Shell offered at its old Dupont location). Bob went for the roasted pepper salad, which had lovely texture and flavor; both were generous portions. I was disappointed that the lamb carpaccio wasn't on the RW menu, seemingly replaced by the salumi. Lots of green salad options were offered as well. About half of the entree options were pastas, and Bob ordered a bucatini with a duck and tomato sauce. My quick taste told me the pasta was fresh, perfectly al dente, and the sauce nicely flavored. I went for the seared tuna with mustard sauce and rapini. It wasn't the prettiest cut of fish I've seen, but the sear was thin and perfect, leaving a tasty, deep-red center offset by a not-over-assertive mustard sauce. To my taste, the rapini was more bitter than spicy, as advertised, but a nice accompaniment. I noted the menu also had several ravioli options, and a simply prepared fresh fish of the day. For dessert, Bob had a panna cotta with strawberries, I the pumpkin and quince strudel, which was strewn with a nice mix of dried and fresh fruits, a small dollop of whipped cream and an amaretto cookie. Wines by the glass go for $10 each for an average-sized pour--some choices seemed a bit pedestrian, others more unusual. The bottle list is pretty pricey, with virtually nothing under $40, and most substantially more. Service was polite though not overly knowledgeable and sometimes confused (the server laid our dessert silverware twice!). The room is a bit noisy, and they seemed rather busy, whether because of RW, the WaPo review, or both, it's hard to say. Overall, Spezie strikes me as a fine alternative to Tosca or Locanda for good pastas and well-done Italian cuisine. The atmosphere isn't much, but what's on the menu makes up for it. I'd like some more range in the wine prices and offerings, both by the glass and bottle, but it's not a deal-killer. Spezie deserves more attention than it's been getting--maybe that's about to change.

My sister and I went to Jasinski's Bistro Vendome for Christmas Eve dinner a few weeks ago. Granted, as with my Christmas Eve trip to Rioja, this is not the best time to visit a restaurant to get the best impression. Still, I would say that Rioja is the much better restaurant, and that this effort at a French bistro pales next to most similar places in DC, such as Montmartre, Cafe du Parc, etc. Sis had the Crepes Vendome, filled with chicken, tomato, olives, herbs, and topped with a fried egg and bernaise--a rather rich starter!--and I had a nice beet carpaccio salad, whose highlight was the goat cheese croquettes. For entrees, she had the vegetables and cheese in puff pastry (which I didn't taste), and I a pork chop marinated in maple syrup, with acorn squash, blue cheese-potato puree, a spiced rum reduction, and bacon-wrapped dates. While the presentation was attractive, and the portion generous, the meat was a tad dry, the potatoes bland, and overall it was a bit sweet for my taste. Darn good dates though. Overall, the dish just strike me as all that French, and would have been more suited to the Rioja menu than here. We were too full for dessert. Nothing terrible here, but Jasinski doesn't seem to have the feel for French bistro cooking that she brings to her modern American fare elsewhere. Indeed, as with my entree, there wasn't much here that was all that different from Rioja, just identified with French names.

When Montmartre is on its game, no restaurant on Capitol Hill can touch it. Hell, few restaurants in DC can touch it, in my opinion. Fortunately, in my experience, Montmartre is more often on its game than off. Every time I go I think, "Damn, why don't I come here more often?" Last night's dinner was one of my best there, and got me asking that question all over again. Friday was a bleak, damp, and chilly day, and after spending most of it toiling in front of the computer, I felt a serious need for some comfort food. Chestnut soup and braised rabbit at Montmartre! I thought. Let's see if I can get a table for one last minute. Lo and behold, I got in, and on one of the high tables back by the kitchen. When I'm there by myself, that's my favorite place to sit--I watch the cooks ply their craft and the marvelous dishes served up for delivery, and say to myself, "I should have ordered that!" Thus it was my plans for the soup and rabbit fell by the wayside. First, I started seeing the first course special of comte cheese fried in phyllo on top of mixed greens being served up, and I knew I had to have it. The perfectly golden and crispy rectangle of breaded cheese was actually a light and savory contrast to the greens. But I was still determined to get that rabbit--the epitome of Capitol Hill comfort food, in my opinion. (The Montmartre martini--gin, sweet vermouth, and triple sec--was a nice accompaniment.) But then I saw the spectacular fish courses being served up--some of the largest entrees I have ever seen at Montmartre, and my eyes started scanning the menu for something without legs. They settled on a delicious-sounding rockfish with red beet risotto, white wine veloute, and roasted asparagus (ok, a bit out of season for the latter). That was it--the rabbit could wait for another winter visit. And I was proved completely right. A tender, flaky, medium size fillet of rockfish (maybe 3" by 4"?) was elevated on a platform of four perfectly roasted asparagi atop a lovely dark pink risotto, ringed by the creamy veloute. The risotto did not have deep beet flavor, but this didn't matter, because the veloute enriched every bit as it melded with the small morsels of beet and evenly cooked arborio. I loved every bite of this dish (along with the Toasted Head Shiraz special by the glass). Locanda is good, Sonoma is fine, but Montmartre is still the Capitol Hill standard bearer. Yeah, it's brunches can be a bit boring, the space gets tight, the service erratic, particularly to the uninitiated. But after five years or so, it still has few rivals in this city as a neighborhood restaurant that really delivers exquisite food day in and day out. Damn, I need to go here more often!

It's unfortunate you were disappointed in your experience, but if anyone applies that sort of mathematical logic to a prix-fixe meal, one is probably doomed to disappointment. How many people really think that a $75 meal equals a $25 appetizer, $25 entree, and $25 dessert, as if all three courses are somehow equal in size, value, etc.? If I bought a three-piece suit for, say, $450, why would I assume that the coat, vest, and pants are each worth $150? If you went someplace else and ordered a $12 appetizer, $25 entree, and $8 dessert, would you then logically think after you paid $45 that you actually had a $15 appetizer, $15 entree, and $15 dessert? While one might reasonably think that $75 is steep for three courses in any event, the sort of calculation you make here suggests that you should steer clear of prix-fixe meals altogether unless you really WANT to drive yourself crazy or be let down.

When I worked in Bethesda, my office was across the street from Brown Bag Catering, and they offered a really tasty chicken pot pie once a week as a special. That was a few years back, so I don't know if that's still the case, or if they have it at their DC locations. But as a take-out lunch, it was fantastic.

I hear that Roasted Boot Salad kicks ass...

After rejecting our usual post-Happy Hour spots Friday night, Bob and I headed to Station 9 to see if we could snag an 8 PM table without a reservation. Most of the booths on either side of the huge space were occupied, but the middle section was nearly empty, so we were seated immediately. The staff was friendly, but not overly so as Tom Sietsema's review implied, so apparently they got the message to tone it back. Bob went for a "Special Delivery" cocktail which was extremely pineapple-y and foamy, served in a tall stainless steel martini glass; I stuck with what turned out to be just an okay glass of cabernet. Overall, the service was a bit leisurely but not objectionably slow, marred really only by a bit of confusion about who should take our orders. Started with the "Mo' Rockin' Beef Rolls" that were much less lame than their name implies--in fact, they were quite tasty, though not very large, served with a sort of tabbouleh, a bit of salad, and a relish. Good beginning. Bob had the peanut chicken, which seemed like a respectable variation of a Thai dish, not overly sweet (ironic, however, since he had rejected the other Thai restaurants I had suggested for dinner!). My scallops with potatoes and rabe was nicely executed overall--five large bivalves, maybe cooked just a hair too long--though I wasn't convinced that the varying tastes and textures totally held together. It was the sort of dish that succeeded in spite of itself, which is maybe a good description of our overall meal: at any point, I had the sense the food or service could have easily fallen apart, which leaves one with a bit of dis-ease, but all in all it wound up being an enjoyable experience, and I'd be glad to give it another try.

My partner and I went to Inti about a month ago, not real long after it opened for business. We were actually on our way to Straits of Malaya but it caught our eye so we thought we'd try it. They did not yet have any wine or beer licensing, so we had to stick to the Peruvian sodas, which were still refreshing. We started with an appetizer of plantain stuffed with a sort of picadillo; despite its garnish of two large blobs of a sauce that seemed to be sort of a bland aioli, it was actually pretty tasty. Bob had the lomo saltado, which I tasted; it struck me as good, not as stroke-inducing as some versions I've tried. My seafood & rice stir-fry was pretty bad, however. The rice was pasty, much of the seafood was rubbery (though it had plenty of it), and overall just blah. The upside here is that the prices are low, the portions quite large, and the staff friendly. The chicken dishes I saw being delivered looked really delicious, so my guess is that if you go here, you're better off sticking with those or beef, not seafood. (I've never been to the other places mentioned in this thread, so I don't have much of a point of comparison to make, and this is only one early experience. I suspect there are better sources for this cuisine. But I'd give it a second shot, especially if they now have wine available.)

Well, this was the Post Magazine's "Fall Travel Issue" and Tom's column seemed to fit the theme. I can't recall whether he's done travel-related pieces in past similar issues or not, but since he's not syndicated (unlike Weingarten), I think it was appropriate. And I think that there was plenty to suggest that the Korean cart is decent, not least the fact that he decided to dedicate space to it at all ("an appetizing little adventure in an unexpected place" was the overall motif, after all). I imagine he's relieved to get to do something different once in a while.

I can't say anything about the food or wine here, but it's got an absolutely gawdawful Web site.

Finally got to Central last night for the first time (Bob's 60th--how is that possible?). Since we're both Negroni men, we went for the rhubarb version, which was a subtle and lovely twist on the standard. Onion tart and gougeres made fine starters. Our waiter (cheers, Larry, you rock!) paced our meal well and took time to talk about the wine and his career path, which added to the relaxed, personable evening. He told us that when Chef Richard offers specials, it's 95% certain it will wind up on the menu eventually. Thus, I decided to forgo the lobster burger I'd been eyeing, and went for the sliced beef cheeks with tagliatelle. Oh. My. God. This was fantastic--possibly the best (non-steak) beef I've ever had, fork-tender, it and the pasta in a rich and flavorful veal jus, divided by a thin strip of pureed carrots topped with crispy carrot strings. With five half-inch thick rounds of cheeks and a hefty portion of pasta, at $22 it was a filling bargain (although heavy enough to be more of a fall dish). If it's offered as a special or added to the fall menu, don't hesitate to go for it. A nice, dry but fruity Spanish Grenache, was a good and affordable accompaniment. Bob went for the rabbit with spaetzle--good but not up to Montmartre's version. Closed with the Kit Kat bar to cap a perfect night of eating at my new favorite place in DC.

My partner and I decided to try out Cafe du Parc for RW. Their Web site gave no clue as to what sort of menu they were offering for this week, so I was a bit disappointed to discover that for the special they only had two options for each course, with a recommended wine for each, slightly discounted from the regular by-the-glass price. But as we dug into our meals (we decided to each try a different option for each course), we were pleased to discover that despite the limited options, they didn't draw from the dregs of the menu for RW. Bob started off with the housemade pate en croute, a large, plate-size slab that he declared the best he had ever had. For my starter I had the baby leek and crab salad with dijon vinaigrette--three leeks about four inches long apiece covered in the tangy, creamy vinaigrette with a chopped crabmeat salad between and topped with frisee--lots of wonderful flavors; my only complaint was that the leeks were somewhat resistant to the knife without sliding apart. For entrees, Bob had the seared cod with salad and mussels--a good-sized fillet, nicely browned, and a side plate of about eight smallish mussels in a mild sauce. I went for the signature sous-vide pork paired with a mini-casserole of green beans. I loved the crispy outer layer, but overall found the mix of meat and melted fat to be almost overwhelmingly rich. For dessert, I thought Bob's apricot panna cotta--a rather large glassful!--outshone my small fresh strawberry tart with housemade ice cream but both were fine. All in all, it was a good-sized, delicious meal, and a bargain at the RW price. In the end, the limited menu did not disappoint. However, I have to agree with Todd Kliman that the interior of this place is nothing to write home about--we got placed at a two-top in the middle of the room to the left of the staircase, in direct view of the kitchen door. Not a horrible location per se, given the rest of the interior isn't much better, but I didn't get any sense of a room that is particularly enjoyable to spend time in. Of course, it didn't help that we were next to a pair of conventioners who didn't like anything they ate--they seemed to be totally grossed out by the sous-vide pork, and asked for their meals to be taken away (funny, they looked like they were overfamiliar with fatty pork products... ) But the staff seemed to handle them with total professionalism, so I left impressed by that. This is a nice addition to the downtown dining scene, but I hope the weather will permit us to go for an outdoors table next time.

The owner of Locanda told me that an Italian restaurant is going into the Ellington's space, owned by someone new to the restaurant business, and that he is consulting with this person on developing the menu. This is NOT going to be Matchbox. As already noted, it's going into the space between Jordan's 8 and Las Placitas (which by the way, has a very nice storefront with large windows).

Well, it looks like Tom liked it slightly--but not much--better than Rocks did: 1.5 stars.

The so-called East Hall won't be open until August 24th, at the earliest. There are delays in getting the necessary refrigeration units for the vendors.

Well, Tom was pretty pleased with it--2.5 stars. Makes me look forward to it as my RW choice.

Undoubtedly appearing too soon for some Rockwellians, here's Tom's take on the Majestic (2.5 stars).

I returned tonight for dinner at Locanda. (It turns out this is only their second night open; Tuesday was a soft opening for friends and family.) At 6:15 I was the first person there, but by the time I left at 7:45, it was 2/3 full and turning folks away because of reservations. As I mentioned in my previous post, they offer a small list of charcuterie (a la carte, or $15 for 3) and cheeses (3 for $14), some antipasti and other small plates, a few salads, about 7 pastas (mid-teens), and 5 entrees ($20+). There is also a wine list of around 30 (?) wines, about half of which are available by the glass or half-liter, glasses ranging from about $6 to $11. Started with the stuffed squash blossoms ($6) and the gambeni ($14). The former were nicely battered and perfectly fried, but it was hard to detect the promised mozzarella filling (maybe I was expecting it to be more obvious than it was). That said, the serving had two tasty and good-sized blossoms with an unassuming fresh tomato sauce. I'd order them again. The gambeni consisted of five modestly sized shrimp in garlic-red pepper oil and a bit of cheese. These were served piping hot--really too hot--and while the rendition was fine (with perhaps too much oil), it was hard not to compare it to the garlic shrimp at Jaleo, and come out in favor of the latter (not least on price). The negroni I ordered to go with these was just okay--it tasted slightly watered down. Moved on then to a very nice maccheroncelli and cheese with finely minced, crisply pancetta ($15), which gave it a wonderful smoky flavor. The tubular pasta was perfectly al dente, and while at first sight the portion seemed slightly small, I was stuffed by the time I was finished. The glass of Carpazo Sangiovese was a nice accompaniment, and a reasonably sized pour for $6. The room itself is nicely decorated, though I hope that they eventually adorn the bare walls a bit. A long upholstered banquette lines one wall, bare wood tables and upscale hard orange chairs make up the rest of the seating, and the floor is also bare. I wonder how loud the place will be at full capacity. Nicest touch was a couple of Italian cookies with the bill, including a wonderful pignoli. Overall, it was not bad for so early in its tenure--the slips weren't disasters, the best things were very good, and I imagine the cooking will get more assured as they go along (I'd like to see more evidence of the Turkish influences). I suspect that this will be a popular success--it offers something quite different from anything else in the Eastern Market neighborhood. (By the way, Locanda and what's going into Ellington's share only the same landlord. The proprietor of Locanda is only advising the person who is developing the other site, who he tells me is a restaurant neophyte.)

Oops, you're right, sorry about that. My bad.

Or maybe we've just gotten so spoiled in expecting a review six weeks after a restaurant's opening that when that doesn't happen, suspicions about fairness arise. He didn't review Le Paradou for about six months after it opened a few years ago but I don't remember any outcry about that. Cafe du Parc opened before Central or Beck, but has yet to be covered with a full review. Some places where one might expect a review never get a mention at all. In the end, it's his call when a place is ready to review. My biggest beef with it is that it's simply one of the least substantive, food-wise, of any review he's done in a long time. I don't think it deserved a full column, but should have been combined with some other places with limited menus, like Taqueria Nationale.

Locanda started serving dinner last night; I stopped by to check out the menu. A nice mixture of mediterranean-influenced appetizers, pastas, and entrees, moderately priced (though I didn't get a sense of the portion sizes). Nothing struck me as particularly original, however--in fact, much of it seemed rather similar to what's on the menu at Sonoma, including a small cheese and charcuterie selection, some reasonably priced wines by the glass. I might have decided to stick around to eat, but I arrived just behind the DC health inspectors, doing an impromptu inspection right at the height of dinner service, much to the owner's chagrin (though there were only a handful of diners). Seemed like not the best time to try it out, first night or not. Went to Montmartre instead and snagged an outdoor table on a cloudy but coolish summer evening--prosciutto with melon, scallops with couscous/grapes/apricots. Nice. I hope Locanda is a success, but for now Montmartre remains the class act of the Hill.

Hey, I read that line last night in John Updike's little-known but classic novel, Sable and Satin: The Absolutely True Tales of the Twin Transvestite Hookers (Except it ended, "Ummmmmmm....yeahhhhh....ummmm....oh baby.")

Two-and-a-half stars from Tom. Start the phrase-parsing!

Banana Leaves was my most recent restaurant experience; my partner and I tried it out for the second time this past Friday night. The first time I enjoyed my meal (BaBa Curry) but Bob was less enthusiastic (an ordinary Kung Pao Chicken). That night, the service was rather jumbled, but it was shortly after Sietsema's review and the place was pretty packed. This time, Bob liked his meal (Honey Peanut Noodles) and I was less enthusiastic (Banana Leaves Rice). I guess the problem on my dish was that it's presented as four different items (good spicy shrimp, a soggy curry chicken, a fried egg, and a small pile of condiments) surrounding a mound of coconut rice wrapped in a banana leaves--but no idea of how one is supposed to eat it . Our Crabmeat Rangoon appetizer was odd, not that far removed from some of Safeway's frozen appetizers. The place was much less crowded than the previous month. so service was more efficient. Best aspect of the place for me is good-sized portions for the money, and a nice variety that makes this different from other Asian options in the Dupont area. But the quality of the cooking is uneven, and often middling.