dcdavidm

For all-around use we really like Frantoia, a Sicilian oil available at the Italian Store for about $25 a liter. Nice fruit with a hint of pepperiness. Holds up well to sauteing; doesn't overpower salad dressings; and makes a nice finish on pastas, meats, and veggies. I think Batali used it on his old "Molto Mario" show.

Lunch: Pizza al Formaggio Dinner: Susanna Foo's Honey grilled lamb chops with jalapeno puree Grilled asparagus with soy sauce and sesame oil Orzo with scallions, parmesan, and jalapeno peppers

Some of our favorites: Vij's for contemporary Indian Chambar for mussels and Belgian beer West for terrific seasonal tastes Parkside for neighborhood fine eating

We've had pretty good luck over the years making gnocchi following Mario Batali's recipes (available in several of his books). Last month, however, we tried the very specific techniques that Paula Wolfert outlined in an article in the November 2007 issue of Food and Wine titled, "Six Steps to Reaching Gnocchi Nirvana." Here is a link: Gnocchi Nirvana The six-step technique is fairly specific, but not difficult. We thought the results were exceptionally good. I agree with "Anna" -- a potato ricer is essential.

Banner posted today across the entrance of what used to be Dahlia: "Coming Soon...Tara Thai." Looks like the neighborhood is getting an outpost of the Thai restaurant empire. Since we like Thai food, we are looking forward to a decent Thai restaurant within walking distance. (Neisha Thai on Wisconsin has been a bit disappointing, in my view.)

Yes!

I always come back to Julia Child's basic souffle recipes; never had a failure. Some of the best savories have been "clean the refrigerator" souffles with whatever leftover cheeses, veggies, and ham or bacon are in the larder. A memorable sweet souffle used pureed macerated dried apricots...fantastic.

Great pre-Superbowl dinner at RTS tonight. No line at 5:00 and everyone was accommodated. Dinner was comfortably leisurely because no throngs were waiting to get in. Hanger steak was even better than usual. perfectly medium rare with crusty surface and wonderfully beefy flavor. Wish I could do that at home. Mrs. dcdavidm's steak diablo also was perfect and the huge leftovers will be the basis for tomorrow's dinner. The Sunday ritual at Ray's certainly can become habit forming.

Alas, it's not NOVA, but Wagshal's (the meat market, not the deli) in the Spring Valley shopping center on Mass Avenue in the District has excellent all-beef hotdogs. Good spice and texture.

I've found semolina at both Vace's and at the Italian Store in Arlington.

We also spent the weekend in New Orleans, but not for the BCS, although we enjoyed watching the festive LSU and Ohio State fans in the French Quarter. After one obligatory stop at Cafe du Monde, we subsequently had our morning beignets at the aptly-named Cafe Beignet, where they were warmer and fresher and not accompanied by a half pound of powdered sugar. Our favorite restaurant turned out to be Cochon. Friendly, casual atmosphere; good service, and fantastic food. We were not all that familiar with Cajun-style foods, and really enjoyed small plates of oyster pie, smoked sausage and grits, spicy grilled shrimp with chow-chow, and a selection of dried sausages. We also tried an off-menu special of a huge, tender, juicy pork chop (Cochon says they butcher their own) that had been slathered in pastrami before cooking. Wish I had access to that quality pork. The second night we tried Emeril's NOLA Restaurant. With all the BCS fans in town, it was packed and noisy, but the food was excellent and the service incredibly attentive, especially considering the crowd. We shared an appetizer of duck pizza (a small pie topped with duck confit and drizzled with truffle oil), and had a delectable shrimp and grits (more complex than expected, with grilled green onions, smoked cheddar grits, apple smoked bacon, crimini mushrooms, creole tomato glaze and red chili-Abita butter sauce) and a plate of tender, smoky ribs. (Oh, on the way to Cochon, we had walked by Emeril's flagship restaurant on the same street, and through the large windows could see him quite involved in running the kitchen; nice to see the over-exposed TV chefs actually working their restaurants.) The final evening we splurged on almost-iron-chef Besh's August. The dinner was remarkable for its quality and consistency from start to finish, with no shortcomings. A first course of tender pillows of gnocchi and lumps of crab, generously topped with truffle shavings, was both ethereal and earthy; an order of roasted oysters was bursting with wet, salty, smoky flavor in each bite. For mains we had a parmesan-encrusted redfish that proved one can mix fish and cheese, and a roasted chicken with winter vegetables. Dessert was a pear trio - pear panne cotta, poached seckle pear stuffed with gorgonzola, and a roll of genoise stuffed with sautéed pear chunks and spices. We'd certainly look for another opportunity to return to the city for more eats.

Skate cheeks (from Black Salt). Lightly dredged in salt and pepper seasoned flour; sauteed in butter for 6-7 minutes; served with a squeeze of lemon. Wonderful little puffs of pure seafood. Texture somewhere between a scallop (much more tender and ethereal) and an oyster (a bit more substantial). Glad I tried them.

Sounds like fun. I'm in +1.

Indeed, as a new place I think they have some issues to work out. We stopped by last Sunday morning to pick up some breakfast pastries and bread. Asked for a half loaf of walnut bread. Unwrapped it at home later that day, and noticed that the cut edge was considerably caved in; a dry taste suggested that it must have been a piece left over from the day before. Unfortunately, I did not watch the counterperson bag it, so I can't be sure. I'll give them more chances, though, because I remember how much I enjoyed staying near one of their NYC outlets a few years ago.

We've never found much interesting along I-5. Veer west, though, to the Long Beach Peninsula (Washington) and check out the Shoalwater Restaurant in Seaview; take a walk around Cape Disappointment; cross into Oregon at Astoria and have lunch at the quirky Columbian Cafe. Alternatively, veer east and spend some time (weather permitting) discovering what's left of Mt. St. Helens.

Had the good fortune to accompany Mrs. dcavidm to Chicago for a Labor Day weekend conference, and had the opportunity to try an old favorite plus some new ones. Old favorite is Frontera, where we arrived about 4:30 to wait in line for the 5:00 opening. About eight people were ahead of us, but by 5 the line was several dozen long (and by the time we left around 7:00 the host was telling people the wait would be 2+ hours). I’ve never liked the idea that even if many tables are available you get shunted to the bar for 20 minutes of mandatory wait time before being seated, but thankfully the margaritas are good, a watermelon mojito was exquisitely refreshing after a hot, sunny day, and the food is worth the wait. For appetizers, the ceviche yucateco (steamed organic shrimp and calamari tossed with lime, orange, habanero, avocado, jícama and cilantro) third of the Trio, Trio, Trio ceviche sampling outshined the rest and will be a solo order the next time. Flautas de camarones (crispy taquitos filled with rock shrimp and potatoes, covered with Oaxacan pasilla chile sauce) were earthy and satisfying. I’ll definitely go back for the main course, a sublime braised short rib special that was among the best I have had. Perfectly cooked and generously seasoned, but not so much that that the beefy flavor was lost. Mrs. dcdavidm’s tacos al carbon (pork sliced and served with roasted pepper rajas, two salsas, frijoles charros, guacamole and homemade tortillas) was composed of excellent ingredients. Having been to Blackbird, we were excited to also try its small-plate sister restaurant, Avec. Alas, the celebrated pea shoot crostini was no longer available, and we settled for its replacement, a more late-summer offering of roasted corn and fennel bruschetta that was just right. We also had the salumi assortment of three paper-thin slices of each of four excellently cured sausages; great flavors but overpriced, I thought. A shared plate of crispy chicken thigh with fingerling potatoes, grilled scallions, piquillo peppers, and frisee salad was terrific and generous. Wonderful Belgian beers went with everything. We liked the décor, the communal seating, and the seasonal menu, and will return. Finally, we tried North Pond, located in a beautiful plains-style building on the north side of a pond in Lincoln Park. The setting is eye-appealing, and the restaurant’s draw is a seasonal menu composed as much as possible of locally grown products, including fruits and vegetables from the local farmers’ markets. An appetizer of griddled calamari, Maine crab, muskmelon, watermelon, avocado, peanuts, and arugula was sea and sunshine combined, and a plate of sliced heirloom tomatoes, grilled onion, and Parmesan bread salad, topped with balsamic vinegar and olive oil was a perfect way to end the summer; the tomatoes were pure sun-drenched richness. Main dishes included a grilled Berkshire pork chop with pieces of braised pork belly, a crispy rice cake, shell beans, and a bell pepper-cucumber relish. The dish was done perfectly; rich flavors but not too heavy for what was still summer in the city. A grilled vermillion snapper filet, with bacon-wilted greens and a charred tomato-mint compote and apple was a nice blend of flavors and textures. A shared plate of sorbet (watermelon, white peach, and blackberry) with a sprinkling of fresh fruit was a fine ending.

We tend to eat early on Sundays, and usually drive by about 5:00, put our name on the list, and get seated within 10-15 minutes. When we leave an hour later, the place usually is full, but we have not seen a lot of people waiting outside. It is hard to resist Ray's on Sundays!

Mrs. dcdavidm and I stopped in at the cafe Wednesday on the way home from work. Arrived about 5:45 and the cafe was empty, so we grabbed a seat by the front window. Wonderful time and delicious food. I started with one of Palena's superb Manhattans, which was intensely flavored and quite satisfying (could become addictive) and Mrs dcdavidm had a tequila and grapefruit juice concoction that was unusually refreshing. We shared dishes from the cafe menu and the main menu: charcouterie plate (which was all that Don Rockwell said it would be); hamburger (delicious; best roll I have had); fries (the combination of potatoes, onions, and lemons was distinctive and well worth ordering); gnocchi (incredible pillows of delight); and a raspberry tart (good, but not exciting). Service was friendly and helpful; atmosphere was relaxing and accommodating. Place started to fill up, though, and by the time we left every table was taken. All told, a great way to spend an early evening.

A few years ago Mrs. dcdavidm spent a year working in NYC, and her apartment was about 100 feet from a Pain Quotidien, so she (and I on weekends) became regulars, and I always brought back a loaf of bread upon my weekly return to DC. The breads are really good; hearty, flavorful loaves. I especially liked the walnut bread. Whenever we go to NYC now I bring back a dozen "hazelnut flutes" and freeze them, to be extracted later for a breakfast treat. Varieties of fruit tarts, croissants, brownies were always terrific. They did a decent job on soups and light lunch fare. Their impending presence here in DC has got to be a big plus.

With no fanfare, Whole Foods Tenleytown this morning started selling wine. There is a modest shelf display across from the cheese counter, and a few stacked displays in the area around the meats and prepared foods. Probably more to come. They are taking neighborhood NIMBY pressure seriously, though--no ID, no sale, including to the chagrined 70-something woman ahead of me in the checkout line.

Re Don's request for most recent meal: Friday evening after work we ate at the bar at Black Salt. Refreshing mojito; half dozen Chesapeake oysters (fresh, plump, a bit mild); wonderfully crisp and tender fried calamari; mussels with a bread-sopping, mildly spicy, coconut infused broth; a few glasses of Oregon pinot blanc. Bar staff is terrific. Enjoyed the hour and got out before the dinner rush. Nice way to spend an early evening.

When my spouse got assigned out of the area for a year and needed some kitchen equipment basics, I got her the two smaller Kyocera knives (small paring knife and a 5 inch or so utility knife) because I knew that knife maintenance was not her bailiwick. The knives served her well and almost six years later are still going strong. I made a small two-slot knife block that sits on our kitchen counter next to the large block, and invariably the ceramics are the ones we go to for routine light tasks such as slicing most fruits and vegetables or cutting a sandwich. Yes; one has to be careful about bones and not putting sideways pressure on the blades, but ours have been worth the money. Would I want them as my only knife material? No; they have too many limitations. But as as an adjunct to a few good steel blades they are nice.

Anna -- Sometimes hardware stores (real ones) have canning supplies. You could call the Ace store at Tenleytown or other ones near Metro stations to inquire. Strosniders (Bethesda and Silver Spring) probably has them, though they are more of a hike.

New seafood counter at Tenleytown Whole Foods opened overnight. Can't vouch for the quality, but the fresh selections are wide and nicely displayed. They also have a large frozen seafood display, with vacuum-packed seafood similar to that at Trader Joe's, and a seafood soup and salad station. Typically, administration hasn't caught up with the new department -- I packaged some calamari salad for lunch but it wasn't yet in the checkout computer, so they couldn't charge me; that won't last long!

"Grow up?" Thanks for the polite ad hominum attack. That's what makes dialog so fruitful. Always a pleasure hearing from "adults."