Jump to content

Gemini and Happy Ice Cream (formerly Happy Gyro, formerly Komi), 17th & P Streets NW, 2013 James Beard Award Winning Chef Johnny Monis Rocks East Dupont


Recommended Posts

I get the impression that Johnny Monis is like the kid in show and tell who's just so excited and thrilled to be sharing with the class that you can't help but get caught up in the excitement. Not only that, but what he's showing and telling happens to be a real working lightsaber that fell to Earth in a meteorite, landed in his dinosaur farm, and was retrieved by his totally hot mom who always brings in cookies for the class and will buy us beer when we're in high school.

Johnny Monis is just that cool.

Everything that was brought to our table was like a telepathic message from the kitchen, "Dude, this is so rad. You have to try this! Check out this awesome thing I found/put together. It's so gnarly, dude!"

I'm not going to go into detail on each of the dishes in our 20+ course meal. I'm not even going to say what I liked the most. I will, however, mention the things that opened my eyes.

The first of the mezzethalkiaiajkieia was a preparation of amberjack in a smoked turbot broth. It was great, but what struck me most was the most mundane part of the dish: the chives that topped it. I'm not sure if he had dried them or crisped them in a fryer, but they were the perfect textural counterpoint to the creaminess of the fish and broth. I knew then that here was a guy who is possessed of such finesse and attention to detail that he has turned the second most pedestrian of green garnishes into a critically intertwined part of the dish.

Everything that came out felt like it belonged. Our water glasses looked like centerpieces that should have had flowers floating in them. The small, cool spoons that were brought out specially for the oyster, uni, and mustard dish seemed to have been selected with great care. It was like Chef Monis had hand picked every portion of our experience.

The scallop carpaccio with whole grain mustard and truffles was hands down the best scallop dish I've ever had, and is something I will be duplicating at home.

Everything was perfectly seasoned. Just the right amount of salt. I feel like that's the sort of thing that only comes with decades of experience - and Johnny's so young! (Okay, he's only 28 - but so am I, and I still think of myself as 4) My wife commented on how he must have incredibly steady hands to put together the intricate small plates we were served. Keep those "steady hands" off, she's mine!!!

The crispy goat tripe with celery and sea urchin was probably the most concentrated collection of creepy animal parts to appear on a plate that night. Especially because the sea urchins, just flown in from Catalina, were presented to us before the meal. However, just as turning on a light reveals that the blob in the corner is just a pile of sheets and not a child-devouring flesh golem, so did putting this in my mouth reveal that it was pure culinary magic and not goat leftovers and spiky-thing eggs. I hope next time they'll let us slaughter our own goat.

"The Wedge" was the best and most innovative salad I've ever had. Creamy, crispy, crisp, fresh, smoky. Komi tests the limits of the word "salad," which now apparently means something deep fried and topped with cheese and bacon. Who knew? I'll have the potato skin salad please...

The hangar steak tartare with frozen potato and roe was definitely the most inventive dish of the evening, as well as one of my personal faves. All the little bits went so well together, while at the same time being intensely flavorful. I'd be interested to know how he kept the frozen potato so creamy - I expected it to be mealy at best, but it was perfect!

I realize this is getting long, and I'm thinking about what I can skip over, but there was just so much worth talking about!!!

Chorizo with clam foam - it was like what a hot dog would taste like in heaven, and what a clambake would taste like if Willy Wonka could put it in a gum. The foie gras in a cream puff was airy and creamy and unlike any foie preparation I'd had before. The date stuffed with mascarpone, yogurt, and topped with EVOO and fleur de sel completely redefined everything I ever thought I knew about dates. Truly, truly eye-opening. The monkey in Raiders of the Lost Ark wasn't dead after eating the "bad dates," he was just in a food coma after eating dates from Komi (a Koma?).

If you've ever seen like some pretentious French film where some old guy that symbolizes the futility of man or something uses candlesticks and goat turds to capture rainbows and starlight in a mason jar, you'll understand the salt roasted pumpkin ravioli with maple and feta. It was like Johnny had been sitting on a mountain peak somewhere outside Montpelier at the height of Autumn, and a kindly old lady invited him in for some pumpkin pie. And then Johnny decided to capture the experience and distill it into ravioli. Oh, and the kindly old lady owns a maple orchard.

I don't remember what my wife's pasta was, but it had guanciale. The tycoon's bacon. Color me sold.

The slow roasted katsikaki for two (goat shoulder) was what set me over the edge in terms of fullness. Up until then, I could still walk. But the goat shoulder. Holy Christ. Ιερά Χριστού. I demand to know how that was done. How do you get a meat to have the creamy, succulent, and juicy interior like a braised short rib or pulled pork, and then have a crispy and amazing exterior like a Peking duck?!?!? And then, Θεέ μου, he did it AGAIN with the roasted suckling pig!!! I gorged myself on pigskin like a Green Bay fan on Sunday.

Dessert was a blur. At that point I was saturated with endorphins and the past-life desire to find the nearest vomitorium. All I can recall is an inexplicable urge to take home several boxes of Johnny's grandmother's Greek-style donuts.

A word about the wines. Kathryn Bangs was awesome. My wife, who opted out of the five glass pairing, ended up ordering three of the wines I got (hence the aforementioned napping problem). The 2006 Hermann Weimer cab practically moved me to tears. I took a sip and basically stared at the candle on my table for five minutes. Think the, "they should have sent a poet" scene from Contact.

Between the atmosphere, the wines from Kathryn, and the amazing friendly and attentive service from Molly (who was incredible) and the rest of the staff, I really felt like I was in someone's house. Not just anyone, but someone who won a "Gracy" from Good Housekeeping for "Most Gracious Host" in 2008. My wife commented that she got a vibe from everyone that came off as genuinely caring that we enjoyed ourselves. It was an unforgettable experience.

The crown is passed:

Best Meal of My Life:

1980 - Chez Breast Milk

1983 - McDonald's

1987 - Taco Bell

1988 - Flatbread

1995 - Mainland Inn

2002 - Allred's in Telluride

2006 - Citronelle (life changing)

2007 - 2941 (a fluke, from what I'm reading)

2008 - Komi (still processing)

I still can't believe Johnny Monis is my age. He should be playing with blocks, not combining the whimsy of Michel Richard with the outright amazing ingredients and flavors or Thomas Keller. And yet, here we are!

PS - This was the first time I brought a notepad to a restaurant so I could write down my experiences for recording here. I felt like a tool. I apologize to Kathryn, Molly, and Johnny for looking like such a douche.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PS - This was the first time I brought a notepad to a restaurant so I could write down my experiences for recording here. I felt like a tool. I apologize to Kathryn, Molly, and Johnny for looking like such a douche.

Next time we will expect minute by minute tweets from your cell phone. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it possible for a single diner to eat at Komi? I gather there is no bar, and it appears that the menu is geared toward parties of two or more.

There is no bar, correct, but if you're comfortable sitting at a two-top by yourself for a few hours, I don't see any reason why they wouldn't be able to accomodate a single diner. Give 'em a call.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did it at the window table several years ago and can recommend that seat (although I can't exactly remember how the new layout is).
Pretty standard layout. Just rows of tables. There was a foursome at the window when we were there - not sure if that's the regular table size for that spot. I would image so. Plenty of smaller tables throughout.

U-bet: I'd be happy to accompany you. Your treat. I'll even put out.

Thinking about my dinner there at this point is like opening an old wound. A knife wound. And I just want to be stabbed over and over and over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After months of speculation about my role at Komi, I would like to finally clear the air. Johnny and I had been looking for the right person to take over my role for over six months. We found that person in Kathryn Bangs. Kathryn is not only a rising star amongst D.C. sommeliers but a good friend. I have enjoyed working with her the last couple of months and I am certain she will continue Komi's reputation for having warm, unpretentious wine service and a unique selection of wines.

I will certainly miss both the great staff and patrons at Komi but I will now be able to experience both as a guest. I'm more than grateful for the support that Rockwellians have shown me in my role at Komi and I will certainly keep you informed of future endeavors.

Sincerely,

Derek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After months of speculation about my role at Komi, I would like to finally clear the air. Johnny and I had been looking for the right person to take over my role for over six months. We found that person in Kathryn Bangs. Kathryn is not only a rising star amongst D.C. sommeliers but a good friend. I have enjoyed working with her the last couple of months and I am certain she will continue Komi's reputation for having warm, unpretentious wine service and a unique selection of wines.

I will certainly miss both the great staff and patrons at Komi but I will now be able to experience both as a guest. I'm more than grateful for the support that Rockwellians have shown me in my role at Komi and I will certainly keep you informed of future endeavors.

Sincerely,

Derek

You've got some big shoes to fill, Doctor D.

And a big, hearty congratulations (and welcome!) to Kathryn.

(Can I put in a little plug for the DC Craft Bartenders Guild as well?)

Cheers,

Rocks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After months of speculation about my role at Komi, I would like to finally clear the air. Johnny and I had been looking for the right person to take over my role for over six months. We found that person in Kathryn Bangs. Kathryn is not only a rising star amongst D.C. sommeliers but a good friend. I have enjoyed working with her the last couple of months and I am certain she will continue Komi's reputation for having warm, unpretentious wine service and a unique selection of wines.

I will certainly miss both the great staff and patrons at Komi but I will now be able to experience both as a guest. I'm more than grateful for the support that Rockwellians have shown me in my role at Komi and I will certainly keep you informed of future endeavors.

Sincerely,

Derek

Very best of luck to you in all future endeavors. Keep us up to date.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After months of speculation about my role at Komi, I would like to finally clear the air. Johnny and I had been looking for the right person to take over my role for over six months. We found that person in Kathryn Bangs. Kathryn is not only a rising star amongst D.C. sommeliers but a good friend. I have enjoyed working with her the last couple of months and I am certain she will continue Komi's reputation for having warm, unpretentious wine service and a unique selection of wines.
Kathryn took care of my wife and I during our visit. She was absolutely awesome. My wife can be a little finicky when it comes to wine, but everything Kathryn brought was eye-opening for the both of us. I actually ordered a case of the Henry Weimer cab she introduced us to. I've never done that before.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What an amazing experience. This guy really knows what he is doing. Every course is a new and interesting surprise. We spoke with our waitress about the age of the staff and she mentioned that their oldest staff member was 31 and everyone else was in their 20s. Thank you Komi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does the degustazione still include wine pairings? There are a couple recent posts that lead me to think that it doesn't. Plus it's kinda hard for me to believe it would, since it's actually cheaper than the regular dinner + 3 glass pairing...

No, it doesn't. i went a couple weeks ago and it didn't. if i remember correctly, it's 125 for the degustazione and around 65-70 for the 5 glass wine pairing. i'm sorry but i don't remember how much the 3 glass pairing was.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, it doesn't. i went a couple weeks ago and it didn't. if i remember correctly, it's 125 for the degustazione and around 65-70 for the 5 glass wine pairing. i'm sorry but i don't remember how much the 3 glass pairing was.

Recent menus and prices are available at the website. The 3 glass pairing is listed at $42 and the 5 glass is $68.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, it doesn't. i went a couple weeks ago and it didn't. if i remember correctly, it's 125 for the degustazione and around 65-70 for the 5 glass wine pairing. i'm sorry but i don't remember how much the 3 glass pairing was.

I was afraid of that. So then that's a pretty ridiculous price hike in a short amount of time. When did they change this? Flipping back a few pages in this thread, to about a year and a half ago, it seems as though you could get the full tasting with wines for a little over $100...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was afraid of that. So then that's a pretty ridiculous price hike in a short amount of time. When did they change this? Flipping back a few pages in this thread, to about a year and a half ago, it seems as though you could get the full tasting with wines for a little over $100...

According some posts from March of 2007 the degustazione with wine was $145. Now with the 5 glass pairing it is $193.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was afraid of that. So then that's a pretty ridiculous price hike in a short amount of time. When did they change this? Flipping back a few pages in this thread, to about a year and a half ago, it seems as though you could get the full tasting with wines for a little over $100...

I would say that's pretty expected for a restaurant that went from "foodie secret" to "Washingtonian's #1 Restaurant" in a couple of years...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was afraid of that. So then that's a pretty ridiculous price hike in a short amount of time. When did they change this? Flipping back a few pages in this thread, to about a year and a half ago, it seems as though you could get the full tasting with wines for a little over $100...

flip back even further and two people could have eaten an entire meal there for not much more than $100, with no reservations. of course, the meals weren't as elaborate in those days, but you still left with a home-made lollypop. today, a meal for two is pushing well above $300, and that's for the short menu, which i believe you need to order from if you want to share some goat, which is well worth getting. the wines by the glass are really first-rate, and a good value, and will open your eyes to the virtues to be found in sparkling wine from greece and vineyards in upstate new york. komi makes me feel like i am eating in a movie. it's incredibly calming, brooding in a healthy way. i wish i could afford to go there more often. i would make it a regular haunt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Price bickering aside, I had an amazing meal at Komi recently. We decided to go with the degustazione. I don't really have much to add that hasn't already been said, so for those interested, here's what we had (this all from memory so I don't quite have all the details, especially for the pastas):

Mezze:

  • Sashimi of amberjack with olive oil, salt, and chives in turbot broth
  • Sashimi of black grouper with meyer lemon, fennel, and olives
  • Diver scallop two ways: Carpaccio with a whole grain mustard sauce, topped with a burgundy truffle & Ceviche with red pepper (?) gelee
  • Oyster and sea urchin roe in sea water gelee topped with creme fraiche and russian kale
  • Salmon belly tartare with pine nuts and frozen shiso
  • Caesar salad crouton
  • Grilled octopus and lentil salad
  • Hanger steak tartare and black truffle ice cream
  • The dates, which this time came on the same plate as the foie gras puff, espelette pepper gelee, and goat cheese s'more (there was also some kind of animal cracker this time)

For the pasta course we got three stuffed pastas - one with salt roasted lobster in lobster broth topped with jalapenos, one with deviled crab, and one with beef cheeks.

For the entree, we got the suckling pig. This might be my death row meal.

Cheese course was a robiola bosina with eucalyptus honey and toasted brioche.

Desserts:

  • Apple crisp with granny smith granita finished with pomegranites
  • Pumpkin semifredo
  • Greek doughnuts
  • Creme fraiche panna cotta

Lollipop was pineapple saffron.

This was definitely one of the best meals I've ever had, and as evidence by this post, one of the most memorable. I'm glad I made my reservation well before they got the #1 ranking. I wouldn't be surprised if the price jumps soon...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes! Hands down this is one of the best meals I've had in DC! Johnny Monis is a fantastic chef and he can definitely rock his nike swoosh bandana in the kitchen.

Some of my favorite mezzethakia from the degustazione a couple weeks ago were:

*salmon belly w/ frozen shisho

*caesar salad crouton

*hangar steak tartare w/ truffle ice cream

*and yes, of course the suckling pig

I put the full list of mezze and wine pairings on my blog: www.panachenosh.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Note: When they say they start taking reservations one month before the dining date, BELIEVE THEM and HEED the implicit advice! I called one freaking day late, and they're already booked. I'm on the waiting list, but there's no guarantee... :D

(Eve Tasting Room is also booked, as is CityZen. Thus is always to the calendar-impaired.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Note: When they say they start taking reservations one month before the dining date, BELIEVE THEM and HEED the implicit advice! I called one freaking day late, and they're already booked. I'm on the waiting list, but there's no guarantee... :D

(Eve Tasting Room is also booked, as is CityZen. Thus is always to the calendar-impaired.)

One DAY late is definitely too late. You want a Friday/Saturday night? One HOUR late is probably too late.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a Komi reservation next week and I was wondering: how important is the wine pairing? I was thinking about skipping it so I can save a bit.

Luck you! The few times I've been there, we've opted for the wine pairing and it was a nice complement to the meal. That being said, I'm sure that the sommelier would be more than happy to recommend a wine or two by the glass to go along with your meal. (And champagne is a nice pairing with just about anything).

Another option, subject to agreement by the sommelier/restaurant, is to share a pairing with your dining companion. A full pairing can get to be a bit much for one person over several courses. When we were at Cyrus, the sommelier actually suggested a shared pairing, with half-pours for each of us (even of different wines when we had different dishes). This was great, since somebody had to drive home and we both wanted to enjoy the meal. It looks like Komi has the option of either a three or a five-glass pairing.

Enjoy your meal and report back!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a Komi reservation next week and I was wondering: how important is the wine pairing? I was thinking about skipping it so I can save a bit.

If wine is important you can always share a bottle of wine during the mezze and pasta courses.

Planning my next visit so that I set an alarm in my calendar to remind me to call.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If wine is important you can always share a bottle of wine during the mezze and pasta courses.

Planning my next visit so that I set an alarm in my calendar to remind me to call.

Are you doing the tasting menu? If so, they three-glass pairing might not be the best option. They cautioned that there would be a gap inbetween the second and third glasses, and I understand why -- you lose the momentum given by a constant flow of wine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We were there recently and they were more than happy to let us decide on the number of glasses we would have as we went. Started with a split of bubbles off the list while we relaxed at the table and ended up with a 4 glass pairing through the meal.

As with all good restaurants, they are very accommodating to your wishes.*

*Within reason, of course.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know how they do their goat shoulder? Or even just what the "toppings" are they serve with it?

I believe it is a long slow roast. My recollection of the "toppings" are things like herbed salt, a hot pepper (habanero?)type sauce, tzatziki, an eggplant based dip. Might as well mention the fresh pita too. I bet you wanted a bit more detail than that though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Last night my husband and I had one of the best dinners I've ever had at Komi. We first tried the restaurant several years ago and have been looking forward to going back ever since. Even with our high expectations, we were blown away. We went with the chef's choice, degustazione dinner. Everything was outstanding. If you haven't been yet I hope you do so soon and if you've been before it's time to return!

I did a quick restaurant review on my blog if you want to check it out... http://nicolealon.blogspot.com/2009/10/restaurant-review-komi.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the meal of a lifetime at Komi last Friday. It was also the most expensive meal that I have ever had in my life. I am having a hard time coming up with the vocabulary to talk about what happened to me at that restaurant.

The service was off the chain awesome.

The wine pairings were spot on, delicious and thought provoking.

The goat made me want to raise them, roast them and eat them at home.

The cheese course was the single most stinky thing I have ever put in my mouth and can still taste it.

I wish I were rich and I would go once a week and sit in that table in the window like we did last week.

Love love love it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having not been back to Komi in far to long I thought someone may have updated info?

A friend who will be visiting Komi soon is curious about Johnny's policy on photography in the dining room. (No flash or blog use)

I have heard rumors that photos are no longer allowed and was wondering if anyone could confirm so I could pass on.

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...