Citronelle, 2007 National James Beard Award-Winning Chef Michel Richard's Flagship - Chef Patrick Robinson Replaces David Deshaies - Closed

[bob3296]

This Saturday I'll be taking the wife to Citronelle for her birthday. This will be our first time and we're looking forward to the experience. Is the 9 course tasting menu the best way to go?

[mdt]

This Saturday I'll be taking the wife to Citronelle for her birthday. This will be our first time and we're looking forward to the experience. Is the 9 course tasting menu the best way to go?

It really depends on your mood, but the good thing is that you don't have to decide until you sit down. The tasting menu does not allow you to choose your courses, but the 3 course meal does allow you that flexibility. Either way you will have a wonderful time.

[kturkey88]

This Saturday I'll be taking the wife to Citronelle for her birthday. This will be our first time and we're looking forward to the experience. Is the 9 course tasting menu the best way to go?

For what it's worth - when I took my s.o. for his birthday back in October, we got the three course tasting menu. There was plenty of food (and tastes - since we're not "allowed" to order the same thing), and with cocktails, a bottle of wine and dessert cocktails - we left feeling happy that we didn't go for the 9.

[Sthitch]

This Saturday I'll be taking the wife to Citronelle for her birthday. This will be our first time and we're looking forward to the experience. Is the 9 course tasting menu the best way to go?

Being your first visit, I would certainly recommend the tasting menu. I had it the Saturday before last, and it was stunning, it also makes the wine selection easy since you can get a very well thought out pairing.

[bob3296]

Had dinner at Citronelle Saturday night. Because of the quantity of wine that was poured and drank (drunk?) a complete and accurate description will be impossible. I will say that the food was very good, as it should be for the price paid. The service was also top notch. No real complaints about food or service.

Of the food that I remember clearly was an excellent mushroom soup with a cheese souffle in the bowl. The soup was absolutely wonderful although I did find the souffle just a bit too mild for my taste.

A squab course was also served which we found delicious. How do you get a steak from a squab anyway? (I did miss not being able to try the duck served medium rare, but that gives us an excuse to come back again soon.)

They also had a mini lobster burger on the tasting menu. It was very good. Everything that I had heard that it was.

I asked our server if we could meet Mark if he was available. He and his assistant (I believe he was his assistant, sorry I don't recall his name, too much of their product I guess) stopped by after the meal and chatted for a while. Because of vast amount of wine that I had just consumed I probably babbled incoherently most of the time. Mark did a good job pretending to understand what I was talking about. He even arranged for us to have a quick tour of the kitchen. Thanks again Mark.

[crazeegirl]

Christmas Eve dinner at Citronelle was amazing thank you Mark, Derek and our server, whose name I cannot recall right now. Prior dinners, we were seated at the wine cellar area of the dining room but thanks to Mark, he saved us a table in front of the kitchen. We opted for the 3-course menu as our reservation was at 9:30 and the tasting is not available after 9pm...or more practically speaking, "we would be at Citronelle until New Year's Eve" (to quote our waitress). The 3 course was perfect. We opted for the black truffles for one course, which was +40 per dish. Mark's wine recommendations and charm, as always, made us confirm again the reasons why we love this institution so much. The wines (Burgundy and a Chateau Neuf du Pape Viex Telegraph(?)) passed with stellar points under Crazeeboy's binary wine tasting (I like it, I don't like it) system.

Amuse Bouche: Half of Mushroom Cigar, [blank], and finely sliced haricot verts with dressing that tasted like it had pickled Japanese ginger--YUM YUM YUM

Me:

Mushroom Soup with Souffle and more than expected shavings of black truffles...decadent, creamy...the cheese on top of the souffle was just crispy enough to add another level of texture without being too empowering. It was the perfect medium to devour the truffles.

Veal Two Ways. I didn't care too much for the fried veal cheek...similar to the chicken nuggets served at the bar.

Buche Noel: Reminded me of my childhood days.

Crazeeboy:

Mosaic: Our favorite of the night...the plate encapsulates Michel's extraordinary talent. I could hang that plate on my wall.

Chateaubriand with Truffles: Good as always...the truffle did not stand out as much as we had anticipated.

Orange Souffle

Crazeesis:

Lobster "Beluga Pasta." Such a fun fun fun dish! Yum!!

Lamb Loin with Porcini(?) crusting. We all decided that the spices on the crust overpowered the flavor of lamb, but it was perfectly cooked.

Ice cream & Sorbet

Topped off the night with port amongst wonderful company at the bar!

[lackadaisi]

For about 15 years I have been trying to find the perfect place to celebrate my birthday - which unfortunately falls on New Year's Eve. I have tried just about everything, and I have stories for weeks about my attempts. But finally, on my 30th birthday, I found the perfect place to celebrate.

There is no place that I would have rather been for my birthday this year. It was the perfect mix of formality and joviality. I met new friends, and I have new stories. The food was amazing, the wine pairings were perfect, and the service was impeccable.

I understand why Citronelle ranked number one in the Washingtonian, and I was pleased to begin my new year with them.

[lackadaisi]

As an added note from last night, I was astonished by the skill with which the kitchen was able to handle a shellfish allergy of a nearby diner that had not been disclosed until mid-meal: A scallop porcupine transformed to squab porcupine instantly and a lobster burger became a lamb burger without a raise of the eyebrow or a change in pace.

[Pete]

Saturday night proved once again why Citronelle is #1 in the Washingtonian Top 100. Some specifics have faded from memory due to time and alcohol, but highlights of our meal included...well....everything . The Mushroom Soup with the 3 Cheese Souffle is on my list of best dishes for 2006. The soup had such a pure taste of mushrooms and was drowning in shavings of black truffle. The escargot was also fantastic. It was served unshelled in little ramekins, and was complimented by a pesto sauce. I couldn't pass up the scallops, which were cooked perfectly and served with a creamy polenta. I finally got a chance to try the Breakfast at Citronelle, which was so whimsical and artistic, but also delicious.

A huge thank you to Mark for his great stories, great great wine selections (the 1999 red burgendy was fantastic...can't remember the vineyard), and for getting both of Michel Richard's cookbooks signed for us during dinner service.

[Walrus]

We had our first Citronelle experience tonight. I'm now too sleepy, too happy, and too happily, sleepily full to give a FULL report, but here are the highlights.

Derek the Divine M. Brown took very, very good care of us, just as he had at Firefly and at Agraria. He is just a lovely person and always someone we like to shmooze with! We felt special and pampered -- thank you, Derek!

We finally met the famed Mark Slater, face to face. He was charming and very nice to talk with. I will be happy when we get to return to Citronelle and talk with him some more!

We had a tour of the kitchen including a very pleasant interlude with pastry chef Robert, on an externship from the CIA. He was sweet and charming and very willing to talk with us. We again felt welcomed and special!

The food was lovely, from start to finish. Tripewriter and I both said that we saw some of the experimentation and whimsy of the food we experienced at Alinea but with more depth -- courses instead of experiments, if you will. Personally, I was particularly taken by the skin of the rockfish, the mushroom amuse (which those of you who know me will know is a true rarity! Me, like mushrooms? Ha!), and especially the foie and truffle Opera. The opera was simply divine -- the best truffle dish I think we've ever had, and certainly one of the best dishes we've had all year. And the wine paired with it, Riesline Kabinett, "Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten," Muller-Catoir 2005 (thanks, Derek!), was perfect. Just lovely.

The eel burger was a bit strong for me -- a new convert to the joys of fish -- but the potato chips made in clarifed butter were, in a word, amazing. You could eat 5 of those chips and be as satisfied as if you ate a whole bag of "regular" chips. No joke -- they were faboo.

We also had the only Roquefort that I've ever honestly enjoyed -- deliciously salty and not too, too strong -- and a nice Epoisse. Lovely! And I'm now on a quest to track down from Shiraz "9" Marquis-Philipps, McLaren Vale 2004. This wine, which seemed just open and friendly on its own, stood up to the stronger cheeses without helping them bury the Camembert.

In short, it was a grand evening and a wonderful way to finish celebrating our 5 years together. We'll be back, and in MUCH less time than it took us to get there in the first place!

[lackadaisi]

especially the foie and truffle Opera. The opera was simply divine -- the best truffle dish I think we've ever had, and certainly one of the best dishes we've had all year

I think "divine" is the perfect word to describe this dish.

[baczkowski]

Forgive me if my typed words are slurred b/c I may suffer from aphasia as a result of my food and alcohol induced coma after dining at Citronelle Friday. Dinner was my wife’s Christmas present to me, and after maxing out that second mortgage, we did our patriotic duty to go into blissful debt to support the local economy.

I won’t give a long, detailed review of the tasting menu food I ate because I’m too ignorant to say anything insightful about what I ate. It was delicious and decadent—'nuff said. The only meal I’ve ever had on par with my Citronelle experience was Masa’s in San Francisco the night I proposed to my wife.

I would love to write a few pages about how wonderful Mark is. Gracious and convivial, Mark made these two young and splurging educators feel welcome without condescension or conceit. Thank you for the captivating table in front of the kitchen and the spot-on wine recommendation in our budget-friendly price range.

Words of advice for those considering between the tasting menu and three courses…We tackled the tasting menu because we never figured we could afford it again until our non-existent kids graduate from grad school. When finally finished with our 8:30 reservation after 11, we were literally drunk on food (alright, so the alcohol helped, too). Michel Richard may describe his food as “light”, but it is certainly not light on fat (or, of course, flavor). My wife felt full after course three (she picked the day before to start Weight Watchers) and I was testing my stomach elasticity by course 5. We amazingly found room, but there is a lot of wisdom in mdt’s advice to consider the three courses. You can choose what you want, try 6 or more different things if your dining company orders differently, feel less bloated, and save yourself almost $150 once you tack on tax and tip. We don’t regret our choice, but our experiences may be informative to others debating the same decision.

OK, time to go change-diving between the sofa cushions…

Pax,

Brian

[DonRocks]

Good Lord! It is going to be even harder to get a reservation there now!

Congrats there DB.

And by the way, in a blockbuster trade that could benefit both teams, Adam Curling will be going to Citronelle to become Mark Slater's assistant sommelier.

[DanCole42]

Tomorrow night I'll be dining at Citronelle for the first time in ages. I'm excited. Psyched, even. Mad with gustatory lust, if you will.

The foie gras and truffle opera sounds amazing. Is that a regular menu item? Can it be gotten as part of the nine course thingy they do?

Also, I know jackets are required for men (I dry cleaned my suit for this special occasion) - what's the dress code for women? Are dress pants and a nice sweater acceptable? Or should it be dress/business suit?

Thanks!

[tfbrennan]

To Dan:

Yumm-o!

Love,

Rachael Ray

Rachael Ray is on my list of Five Celebrities I'm Allowed to Sleep With.

Tomorrow night I'll be dining at Citronelle for the first time in ages. I'm excited. ... Mad with gustatory lust, if you will.... - what's the dress code for women?

RR should stay away from the ruched shirts that she seems to favor.

Gus seems to have answered you already.....

[Mark Slater]

Tomorrow night I'll be dining at Citronelle for the first time in ages. I'm excited. Psyched, even. Mad with gustatory lust, if you will.

The foie gras and truffle opera sounds amazing. Is that a regular menu item? Can it be gotten as part of the nine course thingy they do?

Yes.

Also, I know jackets are required for men (I dry cleaned my suit for this special occasion) - what's the dress code for women? Are dress pants and a nice sweater acceptable? Or should it be dress/business suit?

Tettas y nalgas.

[RaisaB]

Tettas y nalgas.

Well that should be easy enough.

[DanCole42]

So I was halfway through a thorough review of Citronelle when I "Invisioned" my browser crashing. Grr. Now that I've had a good twenty four hours to recover from the shock of my lost work, I present to you my long-awaited review of Citronelle, as originally written in Notepad (just to be safe).

The Bottom Line: Remember my LAST review of Citronelle? Well, my experience Friday night was, in every conceivable way, the exact opposite of that. I owe Mark and everyone there a huge apology.

The Top Line: Traffic in Georgetown parted before us like the Red Sea before someone with tons of dredging barges, so we ended up arriving a good twenty minutes before our 6PM reservation.

The Mrs. was a little unsure what to do with herself when confronted with the air of upper crust courtesy coming from the maitre'd, but I, whom my wife years ago nicknamed "Monsieur Uppity," was on cloud nine.

We waited out our twenty minutes until opening in the lounge/bar. It was my birthday, and as is tradition I ordered myself a glass of Laphroaig (this is also tradition on 364 other nights as well). A restaurant stocking Laphroaig, and adding the exact right amount of ice (very little), is always a good sign - especially if it's a French joint. My only real complaint of the evening was that my $17 glass was only filled about $10 full. I would have said something, but I hate appearing cheap when surrounded by people who can buy and sell my ass.

Anyway, while the Mrs. and I were sitting around having our usual birthday chat about how awesome I am, the maitre'd came over to us and took my remaining $5 worth of scotch and put it on a silver tray. Luckily, before I could say out loud "WTF? I'm clearly not done with that. I know this is a fancy place, but I'm not going to discard that just for the sake of conspicuous consumption," he said, "Right this way, Mr. Cole," and I realized he was taking us to our table and bearing my awesome islay with us so I wouldn't have to carry it.

That's service.

First, we were introduced to our server Elaine, who managed to convey equally well a professionally aloof courtesy and an intimate friendliness - such a perfect and rare combination. She started by pouring us a little birthday present from Mark: Duval-Leroy Brut Champagne.

Please note that I do not have a head for vintages or varietals, so all wine names have been provided to me by Mark in a PM after the fact.

I don't know much about wine but, as Mark said, "there are two kinds of wine: the kind you like, and the kind you don't" Well, I like most kinds of wine, but I expect a sommelier to select ones that I REALLY like, wines that make me think, without knowing why, "this is a really good wine." With Mark's selections, though, it was so much more than that. For the first time, when I put wine to mouth, I could really appreciate WHY this was a really good wine. What Mark said about each one made sense, I tasted the acidity, or the sweetness, or the spice, and finally thought, "ah, so this is what people always mean about wine when they say xxx." It was unlike any culinary or oenephilial experience I've ever had.

Ignoring his extensive expertise with wine for a moment, Mark himself was a total hoot and an invaluable resource, probably the most convivial and openly knowledgeable restaurant employee I've ever met. His sommelier bling (his words, not mine) appealed to my self-aware snob, and his friendly attitude put my more down-to-earth wife completely at ease. He went through each menu item with us, describing them in detail, and seemed to get as much pleasure out of selecting wines for us as we did drinking them (which doesn't seem possible - they were really, really good wines). So often you see wait staff and sommeliers who dutifully go through the motions of ensuring you're having a good time, but Mark genuinely cared that we were enjoying ourselves. On more than a few occasions, I caught him looking over, not like he wanted to see if we needed anything, but to be sure that the wine or food he'd recommended were as orgasmic as he'd hoped - and they were. I actually considered spitting something out in disgust, just to see him knock over several tables in his leap to address our problems, but luckily everything was so good that my lips were physically sealed shut - NOTHING was getting out of my mouth, nosiree.

On to the food. There was some debate as to whether to go with the tasting menu or the three course dealy. I'm sure the nine courses would have been amazing, but on their own they only knocked a shoe off whereas some of the stuff on the right completely knocked our socks off. We compromised and decided to get an extra appetizer each - so with sharing and with the amuse buche, that's ten courses between us.

Speaking of the amuse buche, wow. It started on the right with a mushroom cigar in a light ginger sauce. The dish was a bit like Willy Wonka's three course dinner gum - you put one thing in your mouth, but three different flavors seem to come at you on time release, each one dazzling. It started with the overall juiciness of the mushrooms themselves, then a light hint of soy sauce, and finally the cloud-like cleansing of the ginger; all supported on an aromatic frenzy of porcini.

Next on the plate was something made up to look like a hard boiled egg. I forget what that something was, but it was delicious and used Rice Crispies, and that's where I started to appreciate Michel Richard's innovative genius. It just seems so OBVIOUS now after the fact to use Rice Crispies to add texture (snap, crackle, pop!) to a savory dish, but I don't know who else but the master could have thought of it in the first place.

Last on the plate was an eggshell with an adorable, glued on crispy noodle handle, filled with creamy haricot verts. I HATE haricot verts, but as I always say that mark of a great restaurant is one that can serve me a dish I detest and present it to me in a whole new way and with such quality that I gobble it up.

Everything on the plate was delicious, but I wish I had started with the haricot verts and worked right, since the mushroom cigar was by far the most exciting thing to eat.

For our first appetizer, the Mrs. got the surf and turf mosaic, a National Gallery-worthy presentation of several different kinds of carpaccio - filet mignon, scallop, salmon, exceeded in its gorgeous presentation only by the taste and texture (I think it also used Rice Crispies). I'm used to beef tartare being scrumptious but a little tough - however this take on it just melted in my mouth like butter.

I got the foie gras and truffle opera, something I'd really been looking forward to. The soprano part was played by a creamy celeriac salad with black truffle wisps. The celeriac was a little bitter at first (enough to overpower the truffles - the way elaborate stage dressing might distract from a clean, world-class soprano), but as I ate more it mellowed and ended up going amazingly well together. The tenor was played by a cake of foie gras with black truffle jelly. The truffle was the Pavarotti here, and the foie gras the Carreras, in other words, I guess I was expecting the foie to bring more to the table (both in mass in stage presence). The entire dish was sprinkled with the largest truffle shavings I'd ever seen. The menu advertised that the 2007 black truffles were in, and Mark mentioned that they were very good this year. Not being a truffle connosieur, I took his and my mouth's word for it - they were amazing.

Bitter celeriac? Insufficient foie gras? To be honest, I'm really reaching here because no one will respect my review unless I say SOMETHING negative. Overall the dish got a standing ovation and a singing fat lady at the end (me, not my wife).

The whole affair was served with a Riesling: Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Muller-Catoir 2005 (thank you cut and paste). I knew my wife liked riesling, but this was the first time I've ever seen her get so into a wine that she actually asked the sommelier about it. I know red wine goes with beef, white wine goes with fish, or whatever... but this was the first time I'd ever had wine with food that made me think, "wow, so this is what it means for a wine and a food to go well together." I couldn't explain what was happening in my mouth, but it was good and it made sense in a very zen way.

Next up was the escargot for the Mrs. Not chewy, not overpowered by garlic - simply the best snails I've ever put in my mouth.

I had the faux caviar lobster pasta. It was pearl pasta in squid ink made to look like caviar (and served in an adorable, custom-made caviar tin with glass beads all around in place of ice) over a ton of lobster, a divine hollandaise, and some kind of breading that lent a magical texture. There was a bit too much ink on the pasta - more than was needed for the caviar effect, but I didn't mind.

With the lobster, I had a White Burgundy: Puligny-Montrachet "La Garenne" Premier Cru, Domaine Larue 2002 which, had I not have been completely stuffed after dinner, I would have snatched out of the cellar and flown up to Maine because it went so amazingly well with said lobster. I hear wedding bells in their future.

Ok, this was about as far as I got last time before the damn thing froze up on me. Good thing I've been saving this time around.

For dinner, my wife got the chateaubriand with the syrah sauce and the divine porcini infused potatoes - probably the best potato dish I've ever had outside McDonald's hash browns (trust me, if you know me, that's the highest praise I could possibly give). This will likely be the first main dish I attempt from "Happy in the Kitchen."

Yes, I got an autographed copy and I'm now convinced more than ever (based in part on Michel's caricature of himself and in part on his culinary gifts to the world) that he is the Santa Claus of food. I've glanced over the book, and I must say it's much more accessible than my autographed copy of George Perrier's.

I had the lamb with the jalapeno bean sauce. Definetely not the lamb I'm used to, but the spicy crust and green sauce, not to mention the most perfectly cooked lamb I've ever seen, gave me pause to reflect on life's meaning. The vegetable and potato medley was amazing and almost as good as McDonald's hash browns (again, knowing me, this is probably the highest praise Michel Richard has ever gotten - I love those hash browns).

Our Red Burgundy: Beaune, Domaine Maillard 1999 went equally well with both dishes and, since I'm a red man myself, was probably my favorite of the evening.

A quick word about pacing - it was impeccable. The Mrs. and I completely lost track of time because there was the exact right amount of conversation (which unfortunately shifted from how awesome I am to how awesome Mark and Citronelle are and how I should be a restaurant critic) and bathroom using between each dish that we didn't notice how long we were even there, nor did we care. As soon as I thought, "I can't wait for xxx," I'd glance up and there it was coming expertly out of the kitchen.

Our palate cleanser was a light, citrussy... thing. And I do mean light. Aerogel light. Consider my palate cleansed.

My wife got the chocolate three way and, I take back what I said about the chateaubriand and syrah sauce being the first thing I make. I am now being threatened, under penalty of no sex again, to make Le Kit Cat.

I don't remember the name of what I had, or even what was in it, but it was the most heavenly pistachio-based concoction I'd ever had. Michel had just made it recently to memorialize the passing of a famous French chef, and liked it so much he added it to the menu. I would go back just to have this. Even my wife, who hates anything pistachio flavored (including my tongue after I've eaten the trademark green ice cream), LOVED this dish (see my note above "the mark of a great restaurant").

Our Dessert wine: Dulce Monastrell, Bodegas Silvano Garcia 2003, I probably would not have enjoyed on its own. Tons of herbs and spice, it reminded me of an old oak cabinet and had a light sweetness. But it paired perfectly with the pistachio, and was an absolute ultimate way to end the evening.

I never divulge what I actually spend on a meal on the boards, but let me say that it was a birthday present from my wife, and she has spent several hundred dollars more on birthday presents for me in the past that weren't nearly as delicious.

In closing, let me just reiterate my earlier apology to Mark and the people of Citronelle. You've got a world-class establishment there. My 27th birthday will be remembered, not as the first Bears Superbowl victory in decades, but as my greatest humbling and one of the best food and wine experiences of my young life.

I forgot to mention that Mark was kind enough to regrettably inform me that Ms. Rachael Ray would be unable to make it in time for dinner. I'd also like to add again that, even if you're not a big fan of dessert (or even of Michel Richard's desserts, you heathen), that you owe it to yourself to try that pistachio thing.

[JPW]

So Mrs JPW and I paid our inaugural visit to Citronelle last night.

To begin, it was a real pleasure to finally meet Mark Slater after having known him electronically now for a few years. We had a great time talking (OK, it was mainly gossiping) with him and were very appreciative for the extra attention. Over a glass of Champagne, we pondered our menus.

The amuse was a brioche "pizza" with Parmesan. Very tasty, but not mind-blowing.

My appetizer was the "mosaic" that Dan Cole describes above. Truly a stunning presentation and most likely the finest plate of raw meat that I've ever had. The tunas were absolutely unctuous, almost melting in my mouth. Hell, I even enjoyed the salmon (the consumption of which usually causes me to turn interesting shades of green). To show that it is really the smallest touch that can push a dish over the top, it was the presence of a single tiny bean on the top of each perfect circle of meat, fish, scallop, and radish that kept the dish from being almost too light to enjoy. Really superb. Matched very nicely with a glass of Sancerre by Mark.

Mrs JPW's escargot were great for a winter night. Just the right touch of cheese and breadcrumbs and cooked perfectly.

Before our entrees we received the gift of the foie gras opera cake. Oh my. Oh my. Oh my. Easily the richest thing that I've ever had. The foie was strong, but not overpowering. The slivers of black truffle adding a background note of meatiness. Spectacular.

For mains, Mrs JPW had the monkfish and I had the duck. The monkfish was perfectly done and presented quite simply with a side of pine nut cassoulet. I found that by itself the cassoulet was a little salty, but when tasted with a little of the fish the dish balanced out very nicely. The duck is two ways - breast that has been cooked sous vide and then quickly seared and a confit that I found out later had also undergone the sous vide process at some point. Expecting the confit to be more traditional, I was surprised not to find the soft shreddable texture, but something much more toothsome. Very good (and when that's the worst thing that you have to say about a meal, I'd say that you are doing pretty well). The breast was absolutely perfect and shows what the best of sous vide can do -- a solid pink all the way through, every molecule of meat at a perfect temperature. Perfectly seared skin. All accompanied by a red wine sauce that causes you to realize why you pay to eat out.

All I told Mark about wine to have with the main was that I like syrah and I like Rhones. He picked a lovely Chateauneuf du Pape, 100% grenache, but you never would have known it from the flavor. The fruit was constrained and mellow and it had nice balanced tannins. Perfect for my palate. I'd tell you what it is, but at the limited production scale (300 cases), I doubt that you can find it anywhere around here but Mark's cellar.

A pre-dessert of the fluffy mousse was notable not just for the light and airy mousse, but the incredible intensity of the raspberry sauce. After careful review of our options, we both decided that it was no shame to spoon up every morsel of sauce that we could. We stopped just short of licking our plates clean.

Desserts were Chocolate three ways for Mrs JPW and the raspberry vacherin for me. At this point my stomach was starting to run out of steam, but it gamely ventured on into this delectable mass of ice cream, fruit and pastry. My taste buds put up a valiant fight in search of more amazing flavors, but eventually my stomach declared "No Mas!" and forced me to put down my spoon.

In dining out, the price tag is set as much by the decor and service as the food. At Citronelle, the extra amount that you pay for the service is easily worth the price. From the bussers through the waitors through the indomitable Mister Slater, superb.

This meal was my and Mrs JPW's Christmas gift to each other and I think that it's going to become a new tradition. I enjoyed the XXX dollars we spent on this more than I would have anything else that I would have received.

Is it the best restaurant south of NYC? I don't know, nor do I really care. It's excellent and enjoyable and worth it.

Dining regularly in the main room at Citronelle is decidedly not within my budget or I would have made my next reservation on my way out the door. But there's always the lounge.

[thistle]

Sounds like you had an excellent dinner-maybe you could follow it up with a visit to Central? (spoken as a sidelined restaurant fan-Citronelle is not in my daily budget, either, but I love hearing reports). Also, I greatly appreciate Mark Slater's contributions to online gastronomy & wine appreciation-I have M. Richard's Happy in the Kitchen, while I would love to be a frequent diner, I guess I am just an ardent fan...

[JPW]

Sounds like you had an excellent dinner-maybe you could follow it up with a visit to Central? (spoken as a sidelined restaurant fan-Citronelle is not in my daily budget, either, but I love hearing reports).

I've already been.

It's a very different and very good experience.

[Nutty Buddy]

JPW: Opera as in Opera cake should be capitalized

You've read JPW's take on our evening at Citronelle last night. Here's mine. Yes, such an event rates my second post!

This was our first visit and expectations were high. My initial impressions were of the restaurant’s design so I’ll start there. Well that and I'm a design geek...

The layout, with the bar positioned above the dining room and the kitchen open to the bar above so that bar patrons can peer down onto the action below, is unusual and dramatic. We were fortunate enough to sit in the dining area by the kitchen. And, from that vantage, the way the open kitchen was lit and positioned below the soaring opening in the ceiling was a mesmeric surprise—an architecture that perfectly embodied the status of the chef.

That said, the wood rails used throughout the bar and restaurant to define the different dining areas and spaces are blocky and dated and gave the entire space a dated feel. In fact, when I first walked in, I was surprised by the design. I expected a look and feel that was as clever and smart as the dishes.

We had a wonderful evening and that was due in large part to Mark Slater. He is fabulous! As I said to my husband, “We must have a party just so we can invite him!” I honestly can’t say enough about him. From the minute he arrived at our table, he was friendly, funny and helpful. He knows my husband from the board, but not me yet he greeted me by name. Our waiter was a bit stuffy for my tastes, and Mark was delightfully open and bright.

The wine was incredible: Mark set us up with pairings for our appetizers and a bottle with our entrée. I'm leaving the descriptions to the expert, er JPW.

Our amuse bouche, a mini pizza, was….nice, but nothing to write home about. Again, I expected to be dazzled by every bite so anything less than sublime was somewhat of a let down.

Based largely on Mark’s description of the dish, I chose the escargot for my appetizer. The dish arrived in four clear glass ramekins. The escargot was broiled with Parmesan and topped with pistachios. They were perfect for a cold night. The Parmesan was strong though and often over powered the other flavors. But I savored every bite and cleaned my plate.

Next, foie gras in the form of an Opera cake arrived at our table. That had been my second choice for an appetizer so I was excited to be able to try it. The presentation was spectacular. A complete trompe l’oeil. The foie gras was incredibly rich and wonderful and I should have eaten only a few bites. But seeing an Opera cake, and thoroughly fooled, I kept going back for more.

Monkfish with cassoulet was my entrée. The monkfish was amazing. It was so light I thought I was eating a cloud. The cassouset featured pine nuts instead of beans. It was good but does not resonate in my memory like the monkfish does.

Being the dessert fanatic I am, I was thrilled to discover that I'd enjoy two desserts. The first, a mousse with raspberry sauce, was delightful. The tartness of the liquid raspberry was a perfect complement to the smooth and airy mousse. For my main dessert, I of course had to have the chocolate three ways. The real stand out was the Kit Kat bar: smooth and rich. More please.

A huge thank you to Mark and everyone at Citronelle for making our evening so memorable. Today, I've caught myself daydreaming about that view of the kitchen, the wine, the food, the conversation.... and then I'm brought back down to earth by the sight of Peanut eating cheerios off the floor. Sigh.... Though I’d love to be able to dine at Citronelle more often (we would like Peanut to go to college after all), we’ll definitely be visiting the lounge again soon.

[Tedstar]

I'm going to Citronelle tomorrow night with two birthday pals and we couldn't be more excited!!!!

Everything on the menu sounds incredible. I will have a lot of trouble choosing.

[Tedstar]

We had an incredible meal last Saturday. Since this was our first trip to Citronelle we decided to do the 9 course meal. The waitstaff and the sommelier (not Mark, but I forget his name!) were fantastic.

The menu is different than what is on the website now. I was given a copy but I left it in my friends bag. So sorry, no list from me.

[DonRocks]

These awards are so well-deserved. I won't say they were "overdue," because the timing seems right this year: Chef Richard's first year of nomination was 2006, and it's difficult to second-guess Alfred Portale winning for his great and consistent work at Gotham Bar and Grill. But this year, it's Citronelle, and the entire Washington, DC area should be proud for having two such great titans as Michel Richard and Mark Slater representing them on the national stage. Congratulations Chef Richard and Sommelier Slater!

Cheers!

Rocks.

[Mrs. B]

Mark.

Hearty congratulations, hugs and kisses for an honor which you richly deserve. I'm doing the happy dance for you.. http://youtube.com/watch?v=SjU6z4ffu_4

[Keithstg]

Congratulations Mark!

[Heather]

Congratulations to Chef Richard and Mr. Slater. We have a res for 6/20 and can't wait.

[giant shrimp]

i don't know what gives with the web site, including the mystery of the missing person, but michel richard and mark slater look the happiest among the winners.

[DanCole42]

Congratulations to Chef Richard and Mr. Slater. We have a res for 6/20 and can't wait.

Lucky bastards. Congrats to M&M!

[Heather]

Our res is actually tonight, 6/22. I've been through a few pages of the thread and wondering what spring has brought to the menu. Any more recent reports?

And a question - the desserts sound wonderful, but I am not generally a "dessert person." Would I be foolish to forgo dessert for a cheese course? I would be, wouldn't I? Go ahead and say it...

ETA I have heard rumors of soft shell crab. Will investigate and report back.

[Waitman]

Try the General Tso's chicken. It's not on the menu but it was, apparently, one of the dishes that he experimented with while developing the cookbook and I hear it's astounding. Be persistent -- the waiters don't like to make special requests, but he'll do it if you ask.

Despite Richard's pastry chef roots, I find that they are often more cute than delicious. Get the cheese and whatever sick red Mark has by the glass for dessert.

[Keithstg]

Our res is actually tonight, 6/22. I've been through a few pages of the thread and wondering what spring has brought to the menu. Any more recent reports?

And a question - the desserts sound wonderful, but I am not generally a "dessert person." Would I be foolish to forgo dessert for a cheese course? I would be, wouldn't I? Go ahead and say it...

ETA I have heard rumors of soft shell crab. Will investigate and report back.

I've been remiss about posting, but two weeks ago I had the pleasure of eating at Citronelle twice in 48 hours. Highlights from the spring menu were: Softshell crab tempura - the crab is stuffed with lump crabmeat - outstanding. Also Paella, without rice (ground calamari substitutes instead), and an amazing mosaic appetizer of seafood (hamachi - I think, scallop, and one other fish - then some beef carpaccio to round things out). While not new to the menu, the duck entree has one of the most amazing side dishes I've had all year - bascially duck confit mashed potatoes. And, as always, incredible wines and hospitality from Mark!

[Heather]

Try the General Tso's chicken. It's not on the menu but it was, apparently, one of the dishes that he experimented with while developing the cookbook and I hear it's astounding. Be persistent -- the waiters don't like to make special requests, but he'll do it if you ask.

Jesus you're a sick man.

Despite Richard's pastry chef roots, I find that they are often more cute than delicious. Get the cheese and whatever sick red Mark has by the glass for dessert.

But I like the way you think.

I've been remiss about posting, but two weeks ago I had the pleasure of eating at Citronelle twice in 48 hours. Highlights from the spring menu were: Softshell crab tempura - the crab is stuffed with lump crabmeat - outstanding.

My God that sounds amazing. Thank you for the update.

[lackadaisi]

Our res is actually tonight, 6/22. I've been through a few pages of the thread and wondering what spring has brought to the menu. Any more recent reports?

And a question - the desserts sound wonderful, but I am not generally a "dessert person." Would I be foolish to forgo dessert for a cheese course? I would be, wouldn't I? Go ahead and say it...

ETA I have heard rumors of soft shell crab. Will investigate and report back.

Why forego anything? A couple of weeks ago, I had the tasting menu, and it was wonderful. I don't have the list of dishes that it included with me right now, but I can say for certain that it had the eggplant gazpacho, the softshells, the cod (which is really really good, not to say that everything else is not), a mini-lobster burger, cheese, the dessert that is shaped like a mushroom, and several other delicious courses. Everything was amazing, and the courses were not so large that we were too stuffed by the end.

Another option you might want to investigate in order to try additional items is to look at the lounge menu and see whether there are overlaps that you could try on a different, more casual occassion. For instance, the last time I was there, the lounge menu included the eggplant gazpacho, the softshells, and the lobster burger, but not the cod. Thus, you could try to cod (or something else) and then return for a pretty evening on the patio and try the absolutely amazing eggplant gazpacho and softshells. Or, do both.

(but, I have never had anything bad at Citronelle, so making a decision based on your mood should work perfectly as well).

Enjoy!

[Heather]

Why forego anything?

Because I am a crank, and tend to find more than four courses overwhelming. Great dishes often reveal themselves over several bites, and it's frustrating to get only a taste of something delicious. In addition I prefer to order a bottle of wine for each course and enjoy it, rather than try to switch gears and get pairings to match ten courses. Just my personal preference.

[lackadaisi]

Because I am a crank, and tend to find more than four courses overwhelming. Great dishes often reveal themselves over several bites, and it's frustrating to get only a taste of something delicious. In addition I prefer to order a bottle of wine for each course and enjoy it, rather than try to switch gears and get pairings to match ten courses. Just my personal preference.

In that case, I would recommend the eggplant gazpacho, the cod, and the cheese. Just make sure to grab a glance at other people's desserts, as they are stunning-looking.

[Heather]

There are not enough words to describe the graciousness and knowledge of Mark Slater. Thank you Mark (and our long-suffering server, whose name escapes me) for a delightful evening.

[CrescentFresh]

Try the General Tso's chicken. It's not on the menu but it was, apparently, one of the dishes that he experimented with while developing the cookbook and I hear it's astounding. Be persistent -- the waiters don't like to make special requests, but he'll do it if you ask.

Dude! I thought that was only at Central??!! But I found that the waiters there just didn't get the "phantom menu" thing. Give it all away, why don't you! But you're right. It's killer. Beats the pants of the phantom menu at Beck.

[Heather]

Goofballs.

I want the Hendrick's and housemade tonic as my house cocktail. It is my favorite drink so far this summer.

[qwertyy]

Bummer.

Citronelle temporarily closes due to liquor license paperwork (second item)

[crackers]

Bummer. Citronelle temporarily closes due to liquor license paperwork (second item)

Wouldn't you know, last night was the night my friend and I decided to have dinner in the Lounge after a cocktail party at Poste. We'd even found street parking. The signs on the doors of the restaurant indicated that at least some guests were being redirected to Vidalia.

[Nutty Buddy]

Bummer.

Citronelle temporarily closes due to liquor license paperwork (second item)

The landlords at the Latham Hotel are fired!

[wdcbrucefan]

We experienced Citronelle last night for the first time. And it really is an experience.

First, a huge compliment and thank you to Azie, who 10 days ago saved my hide. I made my reservation months ago on OpenTable for our anniversary dinner. Last Friday, I get the standard "reminder" email from OT and realize I've made the res for 1 week too early. Of course, there's nothing available for the proper night, but she was able to open up a slot for me and bail me out of a major "oops" moment.

We had a 9pm reservation on Saturday night. Read a little on DR and Tom Sietsema about the experience, but in a lot of ways, we were going in without any clear vision of what we were in for. Arrived a bit early, spied Chef Richard dining on the sidewalk with a francophone couple. This seems to be his appointed spot, as we've seen him out there often while passing by. Ordered a drink in the lounge while we waited, and were seated pretty quickly. A suggestion: If you're getting the tasting menu, you really don't need to have a drink before-hand. You're about to consume copious amounts of wine, so save yourself for what's ahead.

We both went for the tasting menu, with wine. 10 courses, 6 full glasses of wine (1 champagne, 2 white, 2 red, 1 dessert wine). The first thing to cross our lips was escargot "flan," with garlic butter and parsley. The smell was exactly as you'd expect, and it was a highlight of the whole meal, even though it was 1 of the 3 amuse bouche. Other highlights were the lobster (mini)burger, veal (both steak & sweetbreads, in a morel sauce... superb), & the dessert chocolate trio (including a choc covered grape truffel). I wasn't as taken by the apple sorbet palette cleanser, and the potato cubes with the rockfish were a bit chewy (although the rockfish skin was salty perfection). The wine accompanyments were superb, even the whites, which I don't gravitate towards as much. Especially liked the Mollydooker Australian Shiraz w/ the cheese course.

Its as much a show as a meal. Although each portion is relatively small, its a lot of food. Yet, you don't leave feeling like a stuffed turkey, since its spread out over about 3 hours and well paced.

Dining room is, as Tom Sietsema's new dining guide says, "a bit dated." The changing light panel, the (faux?) stone wall, etc. But, the open kitchen is a treat to see & watch. As the night went on, the chefs went from toque's to bare-headed, as they shined the stainless to an amazing polish.

[Walrus]

Oh woe is me! Woe woe...or at least as woeful as I can be with a reservation at Citronelle on our 1-year anniversary (and dinner at glorious Eve the night before). Although it still appears on their online menu, according to the perky hostess with whom I just spoke, the New Vichyssoise is no longer on offer. Woe. I have been craving this dish since Rocks first posted about it -- for those who have never had potato chips made in clarified butter, there's simply no other kind of chip that even comes close. Sigh. So, has anyone sampled the new menu? What might be on offer that could, if not replace, perhaps dull my sharp longing for the New Vichyssoise?

[Wine Guy 23]

Oh woe is me! Woe woe...or at least as woeful as I can be with a reservation at Citronelle on our 1-year anniversary (and dinner at glorious Eve the night before). Although it still appears on their online menu, according to the perky hostess with whom I just spoke, the New Vichyssoise is no longer on offer. Woe. I have been craving this dish since Rocks first posted about it -- for those who have never had potato chips made in clarified butter, there's simply no other kind of chip that even comes close. Sigh. So, has anyone sampled the new menu? What might be on offer that could, if not replace, perhaps dull my sharp longing for the New Vichyssoise?

An ever so delightful: Mushrooooooom creation. Not going to spoil the surprise.

[Spiral Stairs]

Citronelle hardly needs additional extended discussion, especially from someone like me, whose bludgeon-like palate cannot do it justice. I'll just make a few observations from the dinner my wife and I enjoyed there last Friday. (Our first time there.)

1. This thing you call "Kobe beef" ... Please allow me to collect the shattered pieces of my jaw before discussing it. Since I haven't had "real" Kobe beef anywhere else, I can't compare it to anything. But holy shinola, this "meat" was unlike any other "meat" I have ever had. Savory to the point of ridiculousness, like it came from the belly of the unholy offspring of cow and pig. Cotton-candy tender, too.

2. My wife and I hate snooty places. Jacket requirements are a massive turn-off for me and, under usual circumstances, a deal breaker. But man am I glad I made an exception for Citronelle. I'd still ditch the jacket requirement if I were President Of The World, but the place is plenty friendly and non-snooty even with the rule. The volume level and table spacing allow comfortable conversation without fear of annoying others or being annoyed by them.

3. The whole Michael Richard sleight-of-hand thing just guarantees fun. I wanted to try all the illusions I could, so I had the Egg Symphony for the first course and the Breakfast at Citronelle for dessert. How can you not laugh a little when eating things like that? My wife's mushroom "cappuccino" was another crowd-pleaser. She wouldn't drink it through the straw, preferring to use one of the tiny spoons that came with my Egg Symphony. But when she gave the remainder of the "cappuccino" to me, I slurped it up like a root beer float.

4. Let me add my small contribution to the heapings of praise already stacked atop Mark Slater. How he found the time to chat so much (including explanations of virtually the entire menu) with little old us is a mystery. But it made an already special dinner even more memorable.

[Marcus Aurelius]

Citronelle hardly needs additional extended discussion, especially from someone like me, whose bludgeon-like palate cannot do it justice. I'll just make a few observations from the dinner my wife and I enjoyed there last Friday. (Our first time there.)

1. This thing you call "Kobe beef" ... Please allow me to collect the shattered pieces of my jaw before discussing it. Since I haven't had "real" Kobe beef anywhere else, I can't compare it to anything. But holy shinola, this "meat" was unlike any other "meat" I have ever had. Savory to the point of ridiculousness, like it came from the belly of the unholy offspring of cow and pig. Cotton-candy tender, too.

2. My wife and I hate snooty places. Jacket requirements are a massive turn-off for me and, under usual circumstances, a deal breaker. But man am I glad I made an exception for Citronelle. I'd still ditch the jacket requirement if I were President Of The World, but the place is plenty friendly and non-snooty even with the rule. The volume level and table spacing allow comfortable conversation without fear of annoying others or being annoyed by them.

3. The whole Michael Richard sleight-of-hand thing just guarantees fun. I wanted to try all the illusions I could, so I had the Egg Symphony for the first course and the Breakfast at Citronelle for dessert. How can you not laugh a little when eating things like that? My wife's mushroom "cappuccino" was another crowd-pleaser. She wouldn't drink it through the straw, preferring to use one of the tiny spoons that came with my Egg Symphony. But when she gave the remainder of the "cappuccino" to me, I slurped it up like a root beer float.

4. Let me add my small contribution to the heapings of praise already stacked atop Mark Slater. How he found the time to chat so much (including explanations of virtually the entire menu) with little old us is a mystery. But it made an already special dinner even more memorable.

Had dinner at Citronelle bar/lounge over the weekend. The duck breast was exceptionally delicious. The breast was served medium-rare, cut and arranged in a half-moon on the plate with a scattering of small vegetables. I slid each breast piece -- both sides -- in the sauce/reduction before I put the splendid duck in my mouth. The breast meat was so tender, mild and fragrant that I wonder if it was a "hen!" Hugo was a fine host and recommended a very complimentary Pinot Noir. I also had the Tuna Niçoise à la Citronelle for an appetizer. I was not to be disappointed. The tuna niçoise was beautifully presented and so tasty! I'm so glad I ventured into their bar for dinner!

[mame11]

I had been saving Citronelle for a special occasion, and to visit with someone who would really appreciate the experience. Last night was such an occasion, and it was a fabulous evening. Thanks to Mark for the warm welcome and kitchen view. My +1 loved watching the action. Though I think my +1 would have loved a tasting menu, it wasn't in the cards for me last night so we ordered off the menu and ended up with an amazing range of tastes.

The amuse was a miniature sweet onion tart that tasted as big as the version on the menu at Central. We had the Eggs Four Ways and the Abalone as appetizers. The Eggs Four Way was both whimsical and delicious. I had never had abalone, and we ordered it because the +1 loves it... it was set in front of me and boy am I glad. Wow, what a dish... the fish was tender yet rich and set on top thinly sliced abalone mushrooms. Oh and the caviar was a decadent addition.

Our entrees were the duck in a cherry/anise sauce and the veal. The duck was perfect, the meat was delicious and the skin crisp and fatty at the same time. I was worried about the anise because licorice is something of which I am not a fan. After the first bite it blended in with the sauce and the sauce was divine. The veal was given a thumbs up by the +1. I loved the morel sauce and the veggies that accompanied it.

For dessert we had the chocolate tasting and snowman. The snowman was really a special dessert, almost a piece of art. Citronelle is donating $2 from each snowman to St. Judes in Memphis.

Thanks to the wonderful staff for a great night. I don't think I'll wait so long for a return visit.

[zoramargolis]

A dear and generous friend enabled me to celebrate a milestone in a most memorable way last night at the Chef's Table at Citronelle. My SIL and BIL, who are very food-and-wine-savvy, came down from NYC to join us, and it was an extraordinary experience for all of us. The food, as expected, was sublime. But we were completely blown away by the wines that Mark Slater poured, course after course. They were almost more impressive than the food, if that is possible. Mark was an utterly charming presence as he described the dishes and wines throughout our meal--I wished that I could have invited him to sit down and join our party.

We started with a three-part amuse: an eggshell case with a circle of dried pasta glued on as a handle on the lid, containing a silky caulifower mousse studded with jewel-like cubes of smoked Alaskan salmon, a tiny glass cup of succulent escargots immersed in a garlic custard with a macadamia-almond crust, and a tiny wedge of a "napoleon" of paper-thin alternating layers of foie gras and black truffle. Mark paired this with Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Rosé champagne, a gorgeous wine.

Then a bowl was set before each of us which had a small mound of duck confit and chestnuts surrounded by dots of roasted peanut butter in the bottom. Over this, a chestnut and foie gras soup was ladled. This was one of the most delicious dishes that I have ever eaten. Earthy, nutty, rich--a glorious interplay of textures and flavors. And with the soup we had glasses of Blandy's 10 year old Rich Malmsey Madeira, sweet without being cloying, tasting of hazelnut, fig and apricot. A truly brilliant pairing of wine with food.

After we had finished these two courses, I felt a moment of the kind of sadness I have felt at the end of a well-written novel that I have been immersed in--sad that the pleasure I have been experiencing is over.

Then we were served a dish of thimble-sized Nantucket Bay scallops on a bed of "onion carbonara"--strings of sweated soft onions treated like pasta tossed with cream, egg and parmesan, surrounded by a sea urchin emulsion. And with this, we drank a bottle of 2003 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild white Bordeaux "Aile d'Argent" -- made in miniscule amounts as a house white wine for the Mouton-Rothschild winery owner's own consumption. Mark was very generous in sharing one of these with us-- how he even is able to get any is a mystery, and it is obviously very special. It was very refreshing, and we were able to appreciate its gifts of flavor all the more when it had warmed up a bit.

A piece of sablefish followed, that had been marinated in sake-miso-and-mirin. Sable is just about my favorite fish. My BIL thought that the marinade had made the fish too sweet. But we were all in total agreement that the 2005 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Riesling "Gueberschwir" was fabulous.

We were all talking about how that riesling had been the best white wine we had ever drunk, when Mark poured a wine that immediately replaced it as our #1 best white wine ever: a 2004 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Criots-Batard Montrachet Grand Cru. That was paired with mini lobster burgers on brioche rolls with potato chips fried in clarified butter. We were pretty ecstatic by that point--and we hadn't even started on the red wines yet.

Perfectly medium rare from edge-to edge, with a crusty char on the outside, baby lamb rib-eye chops were juicy and deeply flavored, served with a few broad beans and a tangy white bean and jalapeño sauce. And with the lamb, we drank a 2003 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru "Les Sentiers." I am somewhat of a latecomer to appreciating Burgundies, mostly because I haven't had the opportunity to taste really good ones. But this one, young though it was, we all found to be complex and delicious. My BIL, completely entranced, skipped the next wine altogether, and focused all of his attention on the pinot.

The saddle of New Zealand venison with a port and fig sauce was served with a 2002 J.P. Belle Terroir, Barossa shiraz, which was briary and deep with dark berry and plum flavors.

We moved on to a cheese course of Pleasant Ridge, Camembert, aged goat cheese and Epoisses with raisin-nut toast and a bottle of 1995 Chateau Pape-Clement, Pessac-Leognan. Opportunities to drink aged, well-cellared Bordeaux have been rare in my life, and this was a revelation--

Desserts were a small slice of Kit-Kat bar, passion fruit sorbet, creme brulee, another one I can't remember, and assorted petits fours accompanied by an Italian sparkling red dessert wine 2006 Brachetto d'Acqui "Braida" from Azienda Agricola Giacomo Bologna. BIL requested an amaro, and Mark produced a bottle of Nonino, which was tasted by all. I have found some amari unpleasantly bitter and medicinal, but this was fresh-tasting and lovely.

A truly amazing meal. We rolled out of there into our taxis, five of us having had nine bottles of wine (we had champagne in the bar before we sat down), plus a glass of Madeira and the amaro--Veggie-teen is too young to be served, though we made certain that she got surreptitious tastes of everything, as an important part of her gustatory education. Whew.

Today, we were trying to decide our favorite aspects of the meal--the chestnut soup was frequently mentioned, but then so was just about everything else. My friend suggested that we ought to make this an annual event. An eventuality truly to be wished for.