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Simon

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Everything posted by Simon

  1. I had a funny experience at Mirabelle recently at lunch. After I'm seated, I mention to my server how excited I am to be at Mirabelle for the first time, after being a long-time fan of Frank's cooking at Palena--and I rattled off a list of my old favorites, like the roast chicken and consommé. The waiter then asks me: "well, do you want me to see if the kitchen can make you the consommé" (which is ordinarily on the dinner menu but is not available at lunch). I remain noncommittal, wanting to take my time to mull over my choices. Nothing especially calls out to me, so when he comes back, I tell him -- thinking that, well, if Frank is on the kitchen, I should just leave myself in his hands -- "I don't necessarily need the consommé, but if Chef is here today, could you ask him to choose one starter and one main." The waiter gives his assent and scurries off. A minute later, I see him at the waiter's station, putting in an order. I then hear him conferring with another server: "You like the bouillabaisse, right? That's my favorite on the menu right now." And, you guessed it. For my starter, I get the bisque, and as my main, the bouillabaisse. In an otherwise sparsely filled dining room (there was only one other party there when I ordered), it's pretty clear what happened. Why don't restaurants want to admit when the name Chef isn't in the kitchen? It's like the one Saturday night dinner I had at CityZen eight years ago, when I asked whether Eric would be in the kitchen that night -- and was told he had stepped out but would be back. And I could clearly see the *freaking open kitchen* working on auto-pilot without him all night long. The bisque and bouillabaisse were fine, but it's not the way I would have drawn it up (and maybe not Frank, either: two soups?). But it's mainly my fault for giving up my agency and being too trusting.
  2. Same deal with Vernick, which I highly recommend. I've had wonderful experiences eating at the bar solo, but you have to get there early, too.
  3. Scene from Restaurant Week: a prep cook in a side room at Sfoglina reviving a sorry looking box of greens, wilted leaf by wilted leaf, using a spray bottle. I can forgive many shortcuts during Restaurant Week, such as setting out nine pre-plated orders of salad on the pass, waiting for orders to come in, but clearing plates before everyone in the party has finished a course is poor form at any time.
  4. I've only been for brunch and was just there for New Year's, and the cooking was solid and precise as ever. Special shout out for the panna cotta and the lobster ravioli, which has always been wonderful but is getting more and more eye-poppingly pricey if ordered a la carte.
  5. I didn't mean to imply that MK Paris was amazing, just that I'd be shocked if some place around here would clear the bar of Parisian adequacy.
  6. I ate here tonight based on Tim Carman's enthusiastic review and was very disappointed (Carman, you've misled for me for the last time...). The Akira Ramen (tonkatsu broth, with a couple thin slices of chasu, veggies, fish cake, and half an egg) was deeply mediocre. The broth, thin and bland, had little discernible pork flavor and mainly served as a carrier for the bitter char of the chasu. The curly noodles were little to write home about (or wax poetic about in the Post). Overall, a nothing bowl of ramen. I ordered the grilled yellowtail collar as an appetizer, was told it'd take 15 to 20 minutes, so asked for it to come out before the ramen. After about 25 minutes, the ramen came out first, and the yellowtail a few minutes later. The fish was moist and nicely grilled, but it won't bring me back on its own. Sitting at the bar, you could see bowls of ramen being plated sluggishly by an inexperienced kitchen staff -- nothing like the well-oiled machine at Daikaya.
  7. You can eat at the bar at Vernick, which opens for drinks at 4:30 and starts serving food at 5:00. The bar seats do tend to go quickly on the weekends, but it's worth trying: I've had my favorite meals in Philly there.
  8. I was able to do the tasting menu with the lamb shoulder as a single diner. Lots of leftovers. FWIW, I had a good time but enjoyed Vernick a lot more (they're very different restaurants, though).
  9. What items look most interesting from a first read of the menu? I remember Chang saying (or someone saying) in the press that he'd be at his flagship regularly because the dishes would be more complex...
  10. Well, there was that kerfuffle some years ago with the BYOers from the Robert Parker wine board that got rather heated (I'd link to it, but it's behind a paywall now...)
  11. The apple confit is the best dessert I've had anywhere in recent memory. But sounds like they're doing something different with apples this season?
  12. For comparison, here are Metier's two wine pairings, which I believe are priced at $100 and $185, respectively. I'll leave it to Don to do a blow by blow, but looking at the second pairing, it seems like a better value (though, it's six, not seven glasses): aside from the entry-level Champagne (for the cocktail) and Riesling, the other four wines are a class or two above what's being poured here. Metier's Wine Pairings
  13. +1. Every prix-fixe menu I had in Spain this fall -- Alkimia, Disfrutar, El Celler de Can Roca, DiverXo -- left me more than sated. You can't let people go hungry for $400+pp, or whatever the tariff is here.
  14. Full Kinship Thanksgiving menu with prices Kinship Thanksgiving Menu.pdf
  15. Plume is the worst "high-end" dinner I've had in D.C. ever. At best bistro-level cooking in fancied-up surroundings. A colossal waste of money and massively overrated.
  16. Yes, the prices! NY and DC restaurants seem so overpriced now in comparison (and don't get me started on the wine markups...) At El Celler de Can Roca, I paid $500 (for two people) for the long tasting menu, plus a few wines by the glass. And Kwame wants to charge how much? And this is reaching further back in my dining history, but I don't know how you can even think about placing any DC restaurant in the same category as Pierre Gagnaire, Ledoyen (in the LeSquer days), L'Astrance...
  17. Just one data point: no restaurant in D.C. I've been to (and I haven't been to P&P yet) approaches the level of the 1-star restaurants I visited in Spain last month (Disfrutar and Alkimia in Barcelona), let alone the 3-star El Celler de Can Roca and DiverXO.
  18. I edited my post to add the descriptor "slightly chipped counter top." And it's a counter with bar stools, not a communal table. And I'd re-think your Italian assumption. ETA: Don, you've sat at this counter before. Maybe not recently, but it hasn't changed since you did.
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