Central, 11th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue Downtown - Executive Chef Nick Johnson and Chef de Cuisine Sean Mulcahy

[mr food]

I'm not that thrilled with their winelist-should have been much more Rhone/Rhone Rangers centric, IMO; also could have featured more Bordeaux. Still, the food was good and the service excellent when I visited. I'll probably BYOW next time.

[DonRocks]

I've had dinner at Central more often than any other restaurant since October, probably five times. On a Sunday evening, it's one of the most valuable places in town.

Berated by Cedric Maupillier for "always getting the cheeseburger," I've tried my best to steer clear of it, and in the process have tried almost the entire menu. Maupillier has emerged as one of the best chefs in Washington, DC, and continues to work at a pace that would wear out a lesser man.

Nearly every recipe at Central has been heavily influenced by Michel Richard, but I've been told that the Filet Mignon Tartare ($14 for a small) was originally the concoction of an more-independent Maupillier. Made with a whole tenderloin, frozen (any frozen, cylindrical meat has Richard's stamp on it), it relies on shallots, cornichons, a bit of mustard, and to the best of my knowledge, no egg, although the dishes at Central seem to shift and change each time I have them. The last time I had this Tartare, I thought I tasted a bit of Tabasco, but I didn't find any this evening. Topped with gnat-sized toasted rice crackers posing as mustard seed, it's served with some of the best fries in town, which retain their interest even as they cool to room temperature.

I've had the Tuna Burger ($18) at Citronelle in the past, but I don't recall having it at Central before tonight. After I've tried about twenty dishes in the past few months, Maupillier might (justifiably) dismiss me for writing about the tuna burger, but it remains a great sandwich. Multi-layered, top-to-bottom, I think it goes 1) brioche top, 2) ginger mayo 3) wafer 4) ginger-mayo 5) wafer 6) ginger-mayo 7) wafer 8) hashed-up tuna patty 9) tomato slice 10) bottom bun. Eating it with your hands, it's a good layering, but when you go knife-and-fork as I do, the top-heavy wafering tends to get in the way, and in the future I may flip it before eating, not caring if I lose some texture in the process. Since I had the fries with the Tartare, I got the salad which was made, at least this time around, with thin, taut, green beans; not haricots verts, and was dressed exactly as it needed to be.

As much as I've explored this menu of late, it seems morally bankrupt to write about a tartare and a tuna burger, but wait a minute, I have a detour to take ...

The 2006 Borgeot Chardonnay, the one marked "Cuvee Michel Richard" is only $8.00 and is my go-to wine here. I believe it may be the cheapest white wine on the menu - it's a very good Bourgogne Blanc, and a great deal at the price.

... as I was saying, despite me only writing about these two things tonight, I'm really enamoured with Central as a stop-in bistro right now. The bar is big and often empty on a Sunday, and the final tab is always a pleasant surprise. Plenty of appetizers are in the single digits, and a good half-dozen main courses are in the teens.

Maupillier is stuck in the shadow of Michel Richard, there's no doubt about that, but he's also running a kitchen that's able to crank out 300+ covers of consistent, interesting, well-priced dishes, and he's doing a darned good job of it, too.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[jpschust]

I can't recall- does Central have a private or semi-private area where we could possibly do dinner for 15 or so?

I need to plan a surprise event and need a room or semi-private area that can hold about 15. I know we can do Dino, but I was looking for something a touch different this time.

[youngfood]

I can't recall- does Central have a private or semi-private area where we could possibly do dinner for 15 or so?

I need to plan a surprise event and need a room or semi-private area that can hold about 15. I know we can do Dino, but I was looking for something a touch different this time.

Funny you ask, I was on the phone with them about this yesterday. Good news for you, they can host up to 25 in their "semiprivate" area. Bad news for me as I've got 30...

[Mark Slater]

I can't recall- does Central have a private or semi-private area where we could possibly do dinner for 15 or so?

I need to plan a surprise event and need a room or semi-private area that can hold about 15. I know we can do Dino, but I was looking for something a touch different this time.

Call and ask about the Jean-Louis room.

[Keithstg]

Call and ask about the Jean-Louis room.

To follow up on what Mark said, the Jean Louis room is great for groups around 15. I've had a work event there as well as a birthday party, and both were excellent. The room is very nicely outfitted, and the view into the kitchen is very neat. The folks I work with were fascniated by it.

[Heather]

Finally made it back for a full meal last night with a couple of friends.

Gougeres These had been inadequately reheated, resulting in a soggy and unevenly heated exterior. Mine are better. Not worth $7 by a long shot.

Chilled ratatouille: The winner of the night, although it did not need to be buried in grated parm.

Onion soup Drowning in so much cheese that it was hard to taste the soup. What I extracted around the cheese was tasty.

Goat cheese caesar salad Clever presentation. Not enough garlic and salt in the dressing. I'd ditch the goat cheese and the mealy, pale pink tomato dice and add a couple of anchovies.

NY strip with frites This is steak au poivre, although the menu doesn't say so. The meat was correctly cooked to the asked-for medium rare, which IMO means the restaurant is doing its job and therefore is nothing to rave about. The sauce was delicious, much better than the meat. Frites were unevenly cooked and most were inexcusably soggy.

Braised rabbit leg with spaetzle Mustardy creamy sauce, very good spaetzle, bland cooked carrots, and very chewy rabbit. The spaetzle included cheese. I would have preferred it without.

Salmon and onion tart Puff with smoked salmon and traditional garnishes.

Macaroni and cheese Lovely cheese flavor, alarming color. It made me wonder if they add ballpark mustard, or a dash of turmeric to the sauce. Baked in an adorable Staub individual gratin dish.

Kit-Kat bar I like Tom Power's version better. The accompanying ice cream had a funky flavor and weird mouthfeel.

Nothing I ate would have me rushing back. It seems designed to impress people solely by how rich everything is, but to my palate the inevitable butter, cream and cheese in every dish masked the refinement and technique that must be in there. Service was perfunctory, and we had to wait for appropriate silver twice during the meal (dessert spoons never showed up).

[youngfood]

...inadequately reheated, resulting in a soggy and unevenly heated exterior. Mine are better. Not worth $7 by a long shot....did not need to be buried in grated parm.

...Drowning in so much cheese that it was hard to taste the soup. What I extracted around the cheese was tasty.

...Not enough garlic and salt in the dressing. I'd ditch the goat cheese and the mealy, pale pink tomato dice and add a couple of anchovies.

...This is steak au poivre, although the menu doesn't say so. ...Frites were unevenly cooked and most were inexcusably soggy.

...bland cooked carrots, and very chewy rabbit. The spaetzle included cheese. I would have preferred it without.

...alarming color.

...I like Tom Power's version better. The accompanying ice cream had a funky flavor and weird mouthfeel.

Nothing I ate would have me rushing back. It seems designed to impress people solely by how rich everything is, but to my palate the inevitable butter, cream and cheese in every dish masked the refinement and technique that must be in there. Service was perfunctory, and we had to wait for appropriate silver twice during the meal (dessert spoons never showed up).

Ka-bam! Don't hold back, Heather! Nice to hear some dissenting opinions around here, even if they wont deter me from heading back here soon. I think your point about the richness of almost the entire menu is a good one.

[Heather]

Ka-bam! Don't hold back, Heather! Nice to hear some dissenting opinions around here, even if they wont deter me from heading back here soon. I think your point about the richness of almost the entire menu is a good one.

Most of the taste issues are relative to my palate. YMMV, as they say on the intertubes.

At this price point, it's inexcusable for the server to drop a soup without a spoon - we had to flag down a manager because we couldn't catch his eye again. That's basic service, not tush-kissing to make me feel important. Is a table of women ordering wine by the glass presumed to be cheap tippers? Because our service felt like that. (In case anyone is wondering, I tip at least 20% after tax on just about any check & more for good service.) Nothing worth causing a scene about - I am not going to call for the manager for the lack of a spoon - but enough small missteps to make the evening dissatisfying.

I was frankly astonished that so much here didn't work, given it's number 10 position on the Washingtonian "Very Best Restaurants" list.

The company was lovely. I'd share an average meal with those ladies any day.

[jpschust]

To follow up on what Mark said, the Jean Louis room is great for groups around 15. I've had a work event there as well as a birthday party, and both were excellent. The room is very nicely outfitted, and the view into the kitchen is very neat. The folks I work with were fascniated by it.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to get the room and the minimum to do a semi-private dining area is absurdly high.

[bookluvingbabe]

The lack of details on the menu makes me nuts. I know to ask but I don't always remember. I know if I had gotten an au poirvre steak I would have been sadly disappointed. (Everyone has food quirks--mine is pepper...).

My only trip to Paris was 8 years ago--is this common in bistro's?

[Heather]

Ka-bam! Don't hold back, Heather! Nice to hear some dissenting opinions around here, even if they wont deter me from heading back here soon. I think your point about the richness of almost the entire menu is a good one.

If you enjoy the food and the service, then go. I would like to go back and find something on the menu that suits me, see whether the service changes with different dining companions, and explore the wine list. The praise here and elsewhere set the bar pretty high, and Central fell short for me. I didn't go expecting to slam it. I wanted to enjoy myself, not come away feeling dissatified. As stated in my other post, YMMV.

The lack of details on the menu makes me nuts. I know to ask but I don't always remember. I know if I had gotten an au poirvre steak I would have been sadly disappointed. (Everyone has food quirks--mine is pepper...).

My only trip to Paris was 8 years ago--is this common in bistro's?

I haven't been to Paris, but the bistros we've been to in Provence and Alsace usually listed a steak as "au poivre" if it included a pepper crust.

[jparrott]

The dinner menu last night listed both "NY Strip with French Fries" and "Steak au poivre." Perhaps it was rung up wrong?

[Heather]

The dinner menu last night listed both "NY Strip with French Fries" and "Steak au poivre." Perhaps it was rung up wrong?

Interesting. I'd decided what I was having before looking at the menu - Malawry noted that it was a very "unfoodie" meal - but steak & frites is a bistro benchmark. I very clearly ordered the NY strip with frites.

ETA: Guess we can add "brought me the wrong main" to my bleating about the service.

[DonRocks]

The dinner menu last night listed both "NY Strip with French Fries" and "Steak au poivre." Perhaps it was rung up wrong?

I think it might have been a mistake - I have a menu (from November) next to me now, and it lists both the Steak au Poivre ($25) and NY Strip Steak ($26).

[brettashley01]

I have plans to dine at Central tonight. I'm lucky that my dining companion is related to someone in the kitchen, so I may have an easier time with this, but I have to ask: Is there anything on the menu - not red meat- that I could eat and not leave feeling like I'll be 10 lbs heavier tomorrow? I'm even hesitant to go for the loup de mer... is it going to be more like poisson au beurre???

[bookluvingbabe]

The salmon and lentils weren't too heavy as I recall. And I think it came with a green salad.

[Heather]

The chilled ratatouille is very good, and enough to make a meal. Maybe the mussels might be what you're looking for?

[brettashley01]

Dinner at Central last night was sublime. No, the experience was sublime- everything from the attentive bartender who left me wondering how they stay so calm and attentive among the crowd to our lovely server, Aisha, who kindly snuck me two Gougeres when I mentioned that I'd heard their praises sung to high heaven and was dying for a taste. We sat in full view of the kitchen. I don't know if that was a gesture to us, or to the many young (cute I might add) chefs who grinned at us two attractive ladies clearly enjoying our meals.

As I've noted before, I have food allergies, and my dining companion does as well. Aisha could not have been more gracious or accomodating; she explained that we could order whatever we wished and the kitchen would make the necessary adjustments. We both began with the ratatouille- my friend's without cheese, and mine was to be "lightly" dusted, but arrived covered in a flurry of what I think was parmesean. No matter. The combination of the vegetables with the bite of the arugula brought the dish to a new level. One flavor we both noted was a kick of pepper- was it cayenne, chipotle? We decided it was certainly not the provencale classic we'd come to love, but this new interpretation was something to return for.

My mussels arrived in a steaming broth of garlic and white wine, perfect for the ethereally fluffy and crusty bread. Not one mussel was closed, cracked, nor one shell empty- I guess there is a first time for everything! Each one was plump and perfectly cooked, and there were enough so that I didn't feel the need to go poking for floaters at the bottom to stave off hunger. Natasha had a large arugula salad with sides of green beans and brussel sprouts (cooked without bacon). I tried the sprouts, which were good, but I thought too liberally salted. During the meal we drank a bottle of the Michel Richard Cuvee 2006 Burgundy Chardonnay. Great price for the wine.

It goes without saying that Central was packed; Aisha remained attentive throughout the meal, and even stayed to chat with us in French. In a city where good service seems more and more rare, I must stop to appreciate the genuinely nice, kind, warm servers that make you feel at home in the restaurant. Merci, Aisha.

Our meal finished with a plate of pear and mango sorbet, so smooth we swore there was cream hidden in there somewhere, but were assured there was none. The flavors were ripe, and complimented by a taste of rose champagne sent out by the kitchen.

All in all, the evening was as close to perfection as one could hope, and I will certainly be back for seconds.

[Sthitch]

This is steak au poivre... The meat was correctly cooked to the asked-for medium rare, which IMO means the restaurant is doing its job and therefore is nothing to rave about. The sauce was delicious, much better than the meat. Frites were unevenly cooked and most were inexcusably soggy.

I had the Steak au Poivre for lunch today and thought that the steak and fries were the highlight. The sauce had a nice flavor but was very salty, and the cold salad put onto a hot plate only asks for problems, and in this case the leaves wilted before I could get my second bite. As with Heather's steak my was perfectly cooked and nicely seasoned, the fries were consistently crispy. This was not a bargain by any means, $25 for a small piece of choice grade sirloin is a bit much.

[lackadaisi]

Next time I am opting for the salad instead of the fries. What a bunch of wasted calories! No flavor and just blah. And, it was a little annoying that there were at least two occasions when food or drink was placed on the table by someone that was engaged in a conversation with another member of the staff. It made us feel as if we were intruding on their conversation by awaiting our food.

But, the shrimp burger was as good as I remembered, and the corned beef sandwich was even better (less sloppy).

[jrichstar]

Had holiday lunch here yesterday and need to put in a good word. Central is an excellent experience from top to bottom: great food and relaxed service and atmosphere. Heck, even the bathrooms are modern looking and memorable.

We got most of the standards mentioned previously. Outstanding were the plump mussels in a lovely rosemary tinged broth, the corned beef sandwich (how they get such great flavor, who knows) and the kit kat dessert. A notch lower was the lobster burger, not because it was not delicious, but because the value at $32 just did not seem to be there. Also, the french fries that come with both sandwiches were a mixed bag---the crisp ones were great but many were somewhat limp and soggy.

Also had to try the Blusser on tap. It was a very good Belgian pils and gave it a go because of its exclusivity at Central. A bit cold yesterday for a beer but it will be much more satisfying on a hot summer day.

[Heather]

jrichstar, how do you reconcile "excellent from top to bottom" with "the value at $32 just did not seem to be there" and "the french fries that come with both sandwiches were a mixed bag---the crisp ones were great but many were somewhat limp and soggy"?

[Banco]

I've always enjoyed Central for drinks--it has to be one of the best tended bars in the city. You don't have to tell the bartender to put vermouth in your martini, and the house concoctions are creative and intelligent. But the food I've had there has always left me a little cool: overcooked, pasty fish and chips, steak tartar that is heavy and cloying with garnishes. I've tended to overlook these things because the drinks are so good and that's usually the main reason I'm there anyway, but last night the food was downright ordinary, almost pedestrian. Steak au poivre was a gristly cut, served a perfect medium but otherwise lackluster. The brandy peppercorn sauce was curiously bereft of pepper flavor. The mound of onion/bacon/cheese accompanying it tasted green and undercooked, like a gratin that had been removed from the oven too early and left to cool. The french fries were good, nothing more, though the mayonnaise sauce they were served with was excellent. But I could've gone to Cafe du Parc and had a better meal for a lot less money.

This time I think I also realized how annoying the atmosphere at Central can be. The women are pleasant enough, but the rest of the clientele seems to consist of pink-faced William Shatner wannabes with hairplugs.

[Joe Riley]

This time I think I also realized how annoying the atmosphere at Central can be. The women are pleasant enough, but the rest of the clientele seems to consist of pink-faced William Shatner wannabes with hairplugs.

Okay, this just begs the question - which version of William Shatner from our collective consciousness?

Young Bill:

Middle-aged Bill:

Or 75 year-old "Denny Crane" Bill?

(yes, I know, I left out "T.J. Hooker" Bill, didn't seem necessary)

I'm picky about who I dine with, after all

[edenman]

Okay, this just begs the question - which version of William Shatner from our collective consciousness?

Slow day at the store, Joe?

[Banco]

Okay, this just begs the question - which version of William Shatner from our collective consciousness?

Oh, Denny Crane definitely. Not his age of course, but his hubris and swagger.

[alan7147]

Slow day at the store, Joe?

Ha ha, I think Riley is off Wednesdays.

[porcupine]

I've always enjoyed Central for drinks--it has to be one of the best tended bars in the city. You don't have to tell the bartender to put vermouth in your martini, and the house concoctions are creative and intelligent. But the food I've had there has always left me a little cool: overcooked, pasty fish and chips, steak tartar that is heavy and cloying with garnishes. I've tended to overlook these things because the drinks are so good and that's usually the main reason I'm there anyway, but last night the food was downright ordinary, almost pedestrian.

Once again, we were in the same place on the same night. And I totally agree with you. "Ordinary" and "pedestrian" pretty much describe the salmon with lentils and braised beef cheeks with tagliatelle we had. But the drinks are great. And I'm going to go out on a limb here and ask, am I the only person who doesn't swoon over Richard's desserts (at either restaurant)? Except for the orange souffle at Citronelle lounge, I could take 'em or leave 'em any time. Mostly I leave 'em. Engh.

[DonRocks]

And I'm going to go out on a limb here and ask, am I the only person who doesn't swoon over Richard's desserts (at either restaurant)?

Nope.

[Sthitch]

The last time I had a dessert there is was the apple crumble thing, and found that the ice cream was great, but the apples were cloyingly sweet yet had no apple flavor, and the crumble was hard as a rock, and for that I paid $8.

I still like the French onion soup when they do not drown it in cheese, but as of late they seem to be spreading it with a heavy hand.

[Joe Riley]

I still like the French onion soup when they do not drown it in cheese, but as of late they seem to be spreading it with a heavy hand.

I ordered the onion soup tonight, and found it delightfully-cheesy. I like a lot of cheese, and there wasn't as much as I was expecting, but there was enough to make me happy. I'd order it again in a heartbeat.

Because Don keeps talking about the hamburger, I just had to try it for myself, I need that frame of reference, so I ordered it medium-rare, with cheese, and Tracy easily talked me into adding the bacon.

It was delicious. Really. If it wasn't the best burger I've ever had, I can say that I've not had better. This and Circle Bistro's burger are my reigning favorites.

Now I know why Don keeps ordering it - once you have something so satisfyingly-good, you want to order it the next time, too. It becomes a hard habit to break out of.

I enjoyed the frites again, too.

Cocktail-wise, I tried the Corpse Reviver #2, only I had it with 86-proof Bombay instead of vodka. Seriously good. I also tasted the Vieux Carre, and later had an Absinthe Suissesse. Yum!

Cheers to Justin, Tracy, Nikki, Andie and GM Brian for helping to make my evening so special, they're great folks.

[cf75]

I finally sat down for dinner at Central - a much over do experience. Therefore, my first-time companion and I ordered "Central 101" - gougeres, lobster burger, short ribs w/garlic mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese and the Kit Kat bar. Not that my comments will vary so much from most, but.

- Gougeres hardly compare to my mom's cheese straws - a staple at every event thrown in my family.

- off the bone medallions of beef short ribs were tender, PERFECT with smoky seasoning. Curiously, I was not alone in my peculiar notion that one of the flavors in my short ribs reminded of the scent of marijuana. (Maybe that's why the Kit Kat Bar was so eagerly devoured by both of us).

- Macaroni and Cheese and Lobster Burger were met with overwhelming raves, but the french fries were left on the plate. Not great (I've had Cork and Marvin's french fries this week, so I am biased as they're two of the cities' best. )

Our service was just right. Friendly, not too intrusive, great timing.

My only gripe was the atmosphere. It seemed the coat check was either full or not an option (we were not asked, so our winter coats hung on the backs of our chairs). The dining room and front lounge looked like a ski lodge cafeteria - coats, hats and scarves everywhere, dripping off chairs, stuffed above the wall booths. It made the dining room look cluttered. Took away from my "ooh la la Michel Richard" expectations.

I read the comment about the hairplugged William Shatner types and laughed out loud. My date and I noticed the crowd was either massive groups of post-graduate women or "hairplug Shatners." Not that there's anything wrong with that. Very amusing, though.

Of course I'll be back to try more of your recommendations. Perhaps in the spring when coats aren't so intrusive.

[jpschust]

Cocktail-wise, I tried the Corpse Reviver #2, only I had it with 86-proof Bombay instead of vodka. Seriously good. I also tasted the Vieux Carre, and later had an Absinthe Suissesse. Yum!

Why on earth are they making a Corpse Reviver #2 with vodka? It's original recipes are all gin.

[Sthitch]

Curiously, I was not alone in my peculiar notion that one of the flavors in my short ribs reminded of the scent of marijuana.

The cook must have confused his herbs and used his special oregano.

Joe,

The cheese being too heavy was not a comment that it has been consistently too cheesy, and if might depend on who is preparing it, but the last two times I had that soup the cheese took up the top third of the bowl, and when you add the bread there was not much room left for soup. The first two times I had French Onion Soup at Central it had more cheese than most places, but not nearly as much as my last two visits.

[ulysses]

Why on earth are they making a Corpse Reviver #2 with vodka? It's original recipes are all gin.

When was the last time I used an original recipe?

[Joe Riley]

Joe,

The cheese being too heavy was not a comment that it has been consistently too cheesy, and if might depend on who is preparing it, but the last two times I had that soup the cheese took up the top third of the bowl, and when you add the bread there was not much room left for soup. The first two times I had French Onion Soup at Central it had more cheese than most places, but not nearly as much as my last two visits.

Oh, dear Lord, just reading your remarks has made me hungry again (ha!)

No worries, man, I wasn't certain quite what to expect, but I would have been disappointed if there had only been a little bit of cheese. On my onion soup, I adore thick layers of cheese, the quantities of which might give my arteries trouble. Central's onion soup was pretty darned good to me. Perhaps they consciously don't go too heavy, lest it put the diner off their ensuing entrée?

Truth be told, I've never had a less-than-satisfactory onion soup experience in any restaurant. Centrals is definitely worth trying.

[chickenlover]

We finally made it to Central last night. Results were mixed. The bread was excellent, perhaps the best I've had in a DC restaurant. The Borgougne Blanc "Michel Richard" was great as well, especially considering the price. I liked the fries, while my better half who prefers a crispier frite did not. We both agreed that the lobster burger was not that exciting. The crispy part was actually kind of leathery and the flavors didn't do much for me. A side of brussels sprouts was not enjoyable--mushy and oily. The faux gras with rilletes was nice, but very heavy and a large portion. I think we could have used a half portion. The highlight of the meal was a special of seafood gumbo. This was a pretty straightforward version with little crispies sprinkled on top. Seafood included crawdads, shrimp and oysters and was perfectly cooked. The crispies added a nice textural contrast. Service was friendly, but kind of mixed up. There was a minor celebrity sighting, some guy from CNN---but no William Shatner.

[qwertyy]

I really liked this place, judging from my lunch six months ago. Tonight, I had forgotten it was Mardi Gras and walked in hoping for a nice cocktails with a friend. Oops.

While the atmosphere was quite comfortable, it took more than five minutes for me to be acknowledged (and when I arrived there were only about six other people in the bar, and at least four behind the bar), and I was rewarded with a watery (but well-made) cocktail and, eventually, ear-splitting music from a live band. They were clearly ramped up for the holiday, and yeah, it was pretty cool to have a clarinetist riffing as he was walking through the crowd, but we left quickly since we couldn't hear each other speak.

Probably my mistake for planning a drink with a friend on Mardi Gras, but no excuse for watery drinks and bizarrely slow service (which actually got faster the more customers who filed in!).

[New Foodie]

Ate at Central for the second time last night (first time not long after it opened last year). The onion soup was fantastic, although it was served so hot that I burned my tongue on the first bite and had to wait a while for it to cool down. I may be mistaken, but I don't remember being served bread the first time I visited, but the bread was warm and crusty this time and helped me taste some of my soup before it had cooled off enough to spoon in my mouth.

I had heard raves about the short ribs and enjoyed my order but I think I liked the hanger steak I got last time a little better. I still have yet to try the burger but I think that will happen on my next trip. For dessert my friends ordered the kit kat bar for the table (to celebrate my birthday) and it was every bit as good as I expected it to be. I had only had Corduroy's version before, and while they are constructed slightly differently, both seem equally tasty to me.

The service left a bit to be desired. The waiter was pretty aloof the whole evening and basically slammed our bottle of wine on the table when he brought it by. He never told us about any specials (we had to ask him if there were any and that's how we found out there were shortribs available) and as he took our order he stood at the computer punching it in and hardly looked at the table. Other than that, the evening was a success.

First time we visited we sat right next to Giada de Laurentis (Food Network) and this time as we were finishing up our meals we saw Fred Thompson being seated. Two celeb sightings in two visits!

[Tweaked]

and now Ranked #10 "Most Intriguing New Restaurants Outside of NYC" by NYTimes food critic Frank Bruni

http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2008/02...ESTAURANT.html#

[bookluvingbabe]

Three weeks ago one of my dearest friends came in for the weekend. She is a huge Michel Richard fan (dinner at Citrus in 1996 literally changed her approach to food) and I gave her the choice of dinner at Central or Citronelle. She picked Central and I confess that I emailed Justin to ask that if Michel was in the house while we were there perhaps he might stop and say hello. Michel wasn't but Justin took such good care of us that it mattered naught.

We started at the bar with Justin asking us what we were in the mood for and he made us two gin cocktails--the French 75 and a gin with housemade tonic. (Mr. BLB had thrown out his back and was sticking to grapefruit soda.) She is still talking about the French 75 and has been experimenting at home to recreate it.

Once we were seated, Justin sent over the duck rilletes and faux gras and we ordered a round of the gougeres and Mr. BLB started with the iceberg and blue cheese salad (which he is still talking about...) In the years we have been friends, she has asidiously avoided liver even as I ordered it at every opportunity. But she tried this. And then got very quiet. "Is all liver like this?" She certainly had her fair share after that!

We the cassoulet special for our entrees while Mr. BLB tried the fried chicken with sides of brussel sprouts and mashed potatoes for the table. Way too much rich food but incredibly good. I only managed to eat about half of mine. We drank the Michel Richard Burgandy with both the apps and entrees. That is a mighty fine white wine.

Before we ordered dessert, Justin sent over two glasses of the absinthe he has been playing with. My friend adored it. I thought it was like drinking paint thinner. I still shudder at the memory and my expression must have said it all because Justin swooped in to bring a glass of dessert wine. We had the cheesecake and chocolate mousse for dessert and then waddled home to pass out.

It was an incredible meal with wonderful service. (I alas did not catch our waiter's name--Mr. BLB snagged the check before I could even get a glimpse...) It was just the kind of grown up evening I needed and I look forward to more of them soon! Thanks to Justin and the wonderful unnamed staff for helping us have such a memorable evening!

Jennifer

[Spiral Stairs]

First time at Central last night. I had done a poor job of scouting (or at least discussing with her) the menu in advance; my wife was afraid that she would find little to eat on the menu. (She's doesn't like almost all seafood and would admit to being less than adventurous.) Then she saw the menu. Burger! Fried chicken! Sides of fries, mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese!

I looked at the menu and saw short ribs! Lobster burger! Cassoulet!

She ended up with the burger, I ended up with the short ribs. Our friends had the lobster burger and short ribs. (The draw of 72-hour meat was strong.) We over-ordered substantially and took home a big bag of food. I wish our waiter would have told us that our short ribs came with mashed potatoes, as it was not explained on the menu; I would not have ordered the side of fries of which not a single fry was eaten. (Also didn't know that the steak tartare, which was my appetizer, would come with fries, which also would have been a reason not to order them as a side. That said, the fries were hot, crisp, and delicious.)

I'm no wino, but I thought the Penley Estate Hyland shiraz we ordered was absolutely delicious.

My wife has put it on "our" short list for future nights out. (A meaningful designation in our toddler-ruled household.)

[pidgey]

We were there for the first time last night too. I really enjoyed my beef cheeks, but I thought it was just a little oversauced, and that kind of took away from the overall beefyness of the cheeks (or cheekiness). I really enjoyed the tagliatelle on the side, but as I got towards the middle, there was a definite coolness there that indicated that perhaps my plate had been sitting out waiting a little longer than my companions'. My husband loved his 72 hour ribs, however, and our friend thought the cassoulet was excellent. The banana split was good, but way too large. I commented that it was served on what appeared to be a school cafeteria tray. Overall, I really, enjoyed my meal, and we can't wait to go back.

[mojoman]

Ate at Central last night.

I started with a French 75. I've never had one before but I thought it was very nice. The gin flavor was subtle and it wasn't overly sweet or tart.

The gougeres and cold ratatouille were as expected although I had hoped that the gougeres would have been a little cheesier. The texture was terrific though. I thought the baby arugula salad served with the ratatouille was too salty and I don't think there was any acid dressing the greens.

I had the short ribs, my fiance, the bacon cheeseburger. I am at a loss why the short ribs are supposed to be so great. When I do mine, I try to find the meatiest ones possible. I braise them in red wine and mirepoix, sometimes adding other flavor accents. After braising, I excise the periosteum and excess fat and serve the chunk of meat in a broth-like sauce. These had been boned and trimmed but then were sliced in a weird way. The meat had a peculiar reddish color, as if they had been corned, maybe that's part of the 72 hour process. I found them too salty. If they're to be that salty, they should be served with a bland starch, not the delicious but well seasoned garlic potato puree. I also did not like the texture of the meat. It was rubbery, not melting the way my ribs are. Anyway, I was disappointed.

My fiance's hamburger was OK. Personally, I prefer a more commercial, white bread type bun. The meat was strongly herbed with, I think, thyme. Meh. The salad served with the burger was very nice though.

We shared the kit kat. Excellent.

While I sound critical and like I didn't like it, I did like Central, especially at that price point.

[mame11]

Ate at Central last night.

Me too! I have not been to Central in way too long. A couple of recent times I was supposed to go, work or travel intervened. So, last night on a whim a friend and I headed to Central for burgers and beers. To our surprise we were seated in the dining room though no reservations were available on Open Table.

The burger was much bigger than I remembered. It was delicious. The fries were perfectly crisp and brown (seriously my favorite version). The server inquired if I would like the ginger mayo and tomato. So, since I last ate there they are taking the time to detail the ingredients. My burger was perfectly cooked.

My friend had the tuna burger which she really loved. It is really much more unique than the burger, but I love the burger.

For dessert we split the banana split. I have not had the dish since opening week and it was soooo much better than I remembered. The ice cream and sorbet were great, and nicely decorated. The sauces were delicious and the whipped cream divine. Oh, there was a banana too.

Though I had not been to Central since the fall, it was really nice to be back!

[ScotteeM]

My husband and I were to Central once last summer for a 6:00 reservation on a Saturday, and while we enjoyed the food very much, and the decor, the noise level was a bit much for us by the time the restaurant was in full swing. This is a problem that has prevented me from returning to some of my favorite restaurants, sadly.

We have a gift card for Central and very much want to go back and enjoy another dinner. Is there a quieter part of the dining room that we should request? Would a table in the bar area be quieter, especially early in the evening?

[Spiral Stairs]

When we ate there last Saturday, our party of four was seated in the farthest-back table in the restaurant. Way in the back, there is an area containing four or five tables that is kind of separated by pillars or similar structural elements (can't recall the details). We were in the back of that area, adjacent to a glass wall behind which was a storage area. It didn't make for picturesque viewing for me, as I faced the storage area and not the rest of the restaurant, but it was actually great in terms of noise level and our ability to converse without anxiety about bothering (or being listened to by) others.

[acevedo81]

What time do you usually go out to eat there?

If its during the usual 7-9 time, you could try going out to eat at different hours. There is a difference b/w a restaurant being noisy and the restaurant itself just being packed, which is not the restaurant's fault just too many people in a small space. Sorry for going on a tangent but at 7:30 any restaurant is busy and loud. I'm not assuming that you go out at that time, just making a point i guess.

[ScotteeM]

What time do you usually go out to eat there?

If its during the usual 7-9 time, you could try going out to eat at different hours. There is a difference b/w a restaurant being noisy and the restaurant itself just being packed, which is not the restaurant's fault just too many people in a small space. Sorry for going on a tangent but at 7:30 any restaurant is busy and loud. I'm not assuming that you go out at that time, just making a point i guess.

We usually make our dinner reservations on Saturdays for 5:30 or 6:00, depending on when a particular restaurant opens, so we finish up between 7:30 and 8. In most cases, restaurants aren't packed at that time, and we can enjoy a relatively quieter meal. Honestly, noise levels usually bother me more than my husband, but he was very disturbed by the volume at Central. Maybe we just both need to plug MP3 players into our ears and enjoy the food.