Central, 11th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue Downtown - Executive Chef Nick Johnson and Chef de Cuisine Sean Mulcahy

[DLB]

I was planning on taking some out of town guest here next week. However, I was concerned about the service in the dinning room ( the bar service has always been better), now your review makes me wonder if this is still a good choice.

[Dave Pressley]

I was planning on taking some out of town guest here next week. However, I was concerned about the service in the dinning room ( the bar service has always been better), now your review makes me wonder if this is still a good choice.

Like I said, I'll be better prepared next time. If the server was told that you wanted a slow paced dinner or if you ordered apps separately from entrees, I'm sure they would be accommodating. By the time we realized that our dinner was halfway over and our entrees were on the table, it was too late to do anything about it, you know? Maybe we'll try the bar next time!

[DonRocks]

All in all, we really did enjoy the food and attentiveness of the service staff and will return many times but we'll be better prepared for the fast service and order accordingly.

I'm a notoriously slow eater when I dine (when I eat alone at home, it's another story altogether - something like a hyena feeding on a wildebeest). The other evening I was a late arrival at Palena, and to their horror, I was still working on a charcuterie plate thirty minutes after it arrived. I've almost always found that, if I ask my server to pace the meal accordingly, things won't arrive before their time. I realize this doesn't help you with your previous meal at Central, but it should do the trick next time.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[purplesachi]

Had a lovely but quick dinner Saturday night at Central. ...Entrees arrived about 10 seconds after the apps were finally cleared. All in all, we really did enjoy the food and attentiveness of the service staff and will return many times but we'll be better prepared for the fast service and order accordingly.

that's funny. we were there friday night for dinner and the service was not fast at all. in fact, it was kind of on the slower side. but then again, we had a late dinner reservation (9pm) - maybe that had something to do with it?

[Dave Pressley]

that's funny. we were there friday night for dinner and the service was not fast at all. in fact, it was kind of on the slower side. but then again, we had a late dinner reservation (9pm) - maybe that had something to do with it?

Great point. We were at 6:30 and the place wasn't that busy at that time.

[Tujague]

Finally got to Central last night for the first time (Bob's 60th--how is that possible?). Since we're both Negroni men, we went for the rhubarb version, which was a subtle and lovely twist on the standard. Onion tart and gougeres made fine starters. Our waiter (cheers, Larry, you rock!) paced our meal well and took time to talk about the wine and his career path, which added to the relaxed, personable evening. He told us that when Chef Richard offers specials, it's 95% certain it will wind up on the menu eventually. Thus, I decided to forgo the lobster burger I'd been eyeing, and went for the sliced beef cheeks with tagliatelle. Oh. My. God. This was fantastic--possibly the best (non-steak) beef I've ever had, fork-tender, it and the pasta in a rich and flavorful veal jus, divided by a thin strip of pureed carrots topped with crispy carrot strings. With five half-inch thick rounds of cheeks and a hefty portion of pasta, at $22 it was a filling bargain (although heavy enough to be more of a fall dish). If it's offered as a special or added to the fall menu, don't hesitate to go for it. A nice, dry but fruity Spanish Grenache, was a good and affordable accompaniment. Bob went for the rabbit with spaetzle--good but not up to Montmartre's version. Closed with the Kit Kat bar to cap a perfect night of eating at my new favorite place in DC.

[crazeegirl]

My wife really enjoyed the cucumber gazpacho, saying that it was very nicely balanced with acidity as well as salt.

I love this soup! It makes you forget the dreadful heat and appreciate it for providing you the forum to enjoy such a delightful soup!

[jparrott]

"Chilled Ratatouille" is two large bowls, one filled with eggplant-tomato yumminess, the other with dressed, bitter greens. It's a lot of food for $9 at lunch...I joked that if they served it with chips, they could call it "Provencal Nachos" and charge $16.

The corned beef sandwich is excellent, although the slaw is too gloppy. Would someone please bring the good folks at Central a sample of the rough-hewn cabbage salad that "dresses" the po-boys at Mother's on Poydras St., New Orleans? The sandwich is substantial and comes with fries--so the $17 it costs is only about $2 more than the same combo would cost at one of the top NYC Delis (Carnegie, Katz's etc).

Would it kill these guys to mention what entrees come with side dishes (fries, salad, etc?) automatically? I mean, it's not that big a deal, but I think a lot of people find it awkward.

[wolverine]

"Chilled Ratatouille" is two large bowls, one filled with eggplant-tomato yumminess, the other with dressed, bitter greens. It's a lot of food for $9 at lunch...I joked that if they served it with chips, they could call it "Provencal Nachos" and charge $16.

I had the Chilled Ratatouille last night for dinner and thought it was awesome. Goes great with a Bell's Oberon -- although so does almost anything.

[DLB]

The website is up, and it looks good!

http://www.centralmichelrichard.com/

[acevedo81]

This place is awesome. First time at central and I left very happy. We ate at the bar yesterday and just ordered a dish at a time along with a bottle of the malbec they serve by the glass. We arrived at 6:30 and the place was packed already, so once we found room at the bar we ordered the food:

- half a dozen oysters - very good selection of west coast oysters (cant remember names) served at the right temperature. A lot of places where I eat oysters serve them so cold that you can barely taste them, but not at Central. The temperature was just right and gave us the opportunity to taste the different flavors of the different oysters.

- Charcuterie - Haven't had the charcuterie at Palena, but this plate was perfect for me. We got the prosciutto, faux gras and 2 varieties of cured sausages, all excellent especially the prosciutto. The only problem I had was that our wine couldn't handle this dish and almost felt like water to wash down the food, but if I return to Central for one thing it will be for the charcuterie.

- Soft Shell Crab - The crab flavor was delicious, we split a crab cut in half that came with 2 dollops of cole slaw (some of the best slaw i've ever had). Maybe a little less batter would have been better, but that's just me b/c my girlfriend loved it the way it was.

- Kit Kat - we destroyed this dish in record time, there were no manners on the table after we took a bite from this desert.

I really enjoyed Central. The manager asked us how everything was we didn't even think about it - amazing. We will be back as soon as the budget allows.

[TinDC]

Has anyone been to Central recently? I am wondering if they have changed the menu to more Fall-like dishes. The website still lists cucumber gazpacho as an appetizer.

[DanielK]

Has anyone been to Central recently? I am wondering if they have changed the menu to more Fall-like dishes. The website still lists cucumber gazpacho as an appetizer.

I don't remember that being on the menu a couple of weeks ago.

[Walrus]

The cucumber gazpacho was on the menu when we were there September 22 -- and it was just lovely.

[ScotteeM]

Cucumbers are in season right now in this area--I know because I'm getting lots in my CSA share. Cucumber gazpacho sounds great!

[Camille-Beau]

Jeffrey Chodorow and Michel Richard meeting at Central yesterday. Any possibility of a Central or Citronelle-like restaurant opening in NYC?

Ok, so now that Kliman mentioned it in today's chat, I suppose it's ok to confirm that CMR will be opening at some point in NYC

[DonRocks]

Ok, so now that Kliman mentioned it in today's chat, I suppose it's ok to confirm that CMR will be opening at some point in NYC

I just got off the phone with Carl Halvorson, and here is what he confirmed:

1) There is going to be a restaurant opening at Carmel Valley Ranch, as yet unnamed, but possibly opening as "Michel Richard Citronelle at Carmel Valley Ranch." This deal is signed, and the restaurant will hopefully open in early 2008.

2) Negotiations are still underway (read: The deal is signed, and the ink is still wet except for one-or-two things) for an as-yet unnamed restaurant opening in the Social Hollywood space, a Jeffrey Chodorow-run property.

3) I specifically asked Halvorson about Central Michel Richard in New York, and he asked me to quash the rumor, adding that for Michel Richard to open in New York, he'd have to move to New York, and that at this point, it's "a dream only."

Like any multi-faceted business plan, there are spikey details, some mere thorns, others on the verge of blooming into roses, and I strongly suspect there will be great, gossip-y things coming down the pipeline, but as of this evening, this is all that can be confirmed. I hate to sound so "official," and everyone should feel free to speculate away, but I tried straining the orange this evening with all my might, and this is all the juice I was able to produce; the rest, for now, is pulp fiction.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[Camille-Beau]

3) I specifically asked Halvorson about Central Michel Richard in New York, and he asked me to quash the rumor, adding that for Michel Richard to open in New York, he'd have to move to New York, and that at this point, it's "a dream only."

We'll see

[zoramargolis]

2) Negotiations are still underway (read: The deal is signed, and the ink is still wet except for one-or-two things) for an as-yet unnamed restaurant opening in the Social Hollywood space, a Jeffrey Chodorow-run property.

Social is located in the old Hollywood Athletic Club, which the site describes as a former playground of the stars during the 1930's. And during the early 1960's, it was the home of Los Angeles Hebrew High School, where I spent many a miserable Sunday. I used to ditch classes and synagogue services and explore the unused parts of the mostly empty building, like the old abandoned Olympic-sized swimming pool in the basement. It was a really creepy place.

[Sthitch]

On a rainy day like today I cannot think of a food that could be as comforting as the bowl of onion soup I had at Central.

[Chris Cunningham]

The Filet Mignon TARTAR--AMAZING

[Adam23]

Had a nice dinner on Saturday. Service was very good. Food was served promptly, but not rushed. Had the pleasure of sitting next to Martha Raddatz who kept telling us how she disliked the food (she had the salmon and lentils). I found it a bit amusing.

Anyhow...

I had the onion soup to start - delicious as always. A very nice rich beef broth, gooey cheese - The best onion soup in DC.

My wife had the cucumber gazpacho. It wasn't our favourite thing we've had at Central. We didn't like the jalapenos in it and it was a bit too salty.

For mains, my wife had the fish and chips. Superb - amazing, flaky, flavorful fish in a delicious breading. We both agreed it was a bit better then Eamonns. Two nice large pieces of fish were served with a very nice tartar-like sauce which was superb. The fries were very good and crisp as well. I highly recommend it.

I had the beef cheeks. The beef was flavorful and very tender. No knife needed. The beef had a very nice flavor - almost pastrami like - since it was coated in a nice thick pepper coating. The beef was served with some pasta. Not my favourite part. Some mashed potatoes would have been preferred. The pasta was hard and more or less tasteless. I didn't really eat much of the pasta.

For dessert we had the Kit Kat - superb as always.

Corkage is down to $15 a bottle - was $20 the last few times.

Overall a good meal. A few changes in the food would have made it perfect, but overall very enjoyable.

[jiveturk21]

How long has Central been open? Six months? We are already up to the 8th page for this restaurant? Wow.

We went on Friday night before a show at the National Theatre (The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee, no bad, but not great either) and had a great meal, yet again. Drinks at the bar were disappointing, but I am getting the distinct feeling that I really don't like specialty cocktails all that much. We had a concord grape caiprihina, a pisco sour type of drink and an apple cider with brandy type of drink. The first two, honestly, were a bit gross. Too sweet and too sour, almost no taste of alcohol in the drinks, something which I can't stand. The apple cider with brandy drink was OK, mostly because I could taste the alcohol, but I wouldn't order it again. I guess it will just be Snowqueen on the rocks with olives for me going forward. I do want to mention, however, that Jake was a great bartender, really knowledgable, very nice.

When we sat down we got great service from our waitress, who's name I forget right now. The gougeres and mushroom pearl pasta risotto were great starters, both were rich and flavorful. For dinner we had the lobster burger, the cheeseburger, the hangar steak and the beef cheeks with tagliatelle. The lobster burger was good, but I think that $32 is a bit steep for it. The burger, I thought, was better, the potatoes added a great crispy texture to it. It was, however, damn messy, the last 1/3 of it was eaten with a fork, I was a freakin mess. The hangar steak, which we had on a previous visit, was wonderful. And the beef cheeks were great and so was the pasta, but both were very, very, very rich. Overall, if given in a much smaller portion as a starter, it would have been a solid dish, but the whole thing was just too much. As always, the fries were wonderful, still behind Poste in my opinion though.

We had two bottles of wine at dinner, but we only got half way through the second one when we had to leave to go to the show. I was shocked to find out that we couldn't take the wine with us. I know that you can in Virginia and I know that I have, numerous times, in DC. Is it the law that you can't bring it with you in DC? Did all those other places just turn a blind eye when we did it? Anyway, we were coming back after the show for dessert at the bar, so our waitress was happy to keep it back there for us.

After the show we had the kit kat bar (amazing) and the chocolate mousse cake (pedestrian), the half bottle of wine didn't really go so well with it, but we enjoyed it nonetheless. The restaurant at 10:30 was jammed, much more crowded than when we left earlier at 7:30, good business for a night when it was pouring rain.

[deangold]

I know that I have, numerous times, in DC. Is it the law that you can't bring it with you in DC? Did all those other places just turn a blind eye when we did it?

Yes. Taking an open beverage out of a restaurant in DC is a major no no. Even if it is wine that you brought in yourself! Even MoCo lets youtake home a partial bottle of wine and there are various tamper proof wine bottle bags that would give evidence that the wine was not imbibed in public. After all, if you're not a seanator, we cannot let that happen can we?

[jiveturk21]

I just don't understand that law at all, why are you trying to force alcohol down a customers throat before they jump into a car to drive away!?

[deangold]

I just don't understand that law at all, why are you trying to force alcohol down a customers throat before they jump into a car to drive away!?

Especially if it is a 20+ year old Brunello or a 30+ year old Barolo, I reccomend leaving a copious amount f it for the owner and driving home sober (hoping owner's wife can be talked into driving home again for the nth night in a row)

[mr food]

Charging $30 for a small pour of Macallan 18 as Central does is another way to keep customers sober. Highway robbery, IMO. Food and service (Brian) were good though.

[mr food]

Guess I'd better price it before I drink it next time. I agree $150pb is too much.

[Baccala]

My wife and I had a first dinner at Central last night. We found the service to be excellent. We found the food to be good, not great. I like the food, the wine list and the space and would go back, however see no real reason to rush back or put into my rotation.

We had the following;

Mussel Chowder-

Frisee & Lardon, poached egg salad

Lobster burger

Lamb shank with creamy corn polenta

Kit-Kat bar

[bookluvingbabe]

Mr. BLB and I took the Central burger challenge this week. He went on Monday and I went on Thursday.

We both thought that it was quite good but not as good as the Palena burger. For me, the bun and truffled cheese at Palena give it an edge. I did think the meat on the Central burger might be a smidge better and was less salty. Alas, I was detecting notes of ground peper and I can't stand pepper. I wasn't actually sure if it was the burger or the fries that I was picking up the pepper from. I will ask for the fries without pepper next time and see if it helps.

I also had a side of the brussel sprouts and the wonderful chocolate mousse. Service was terrific and the staff didn't blink when I rolled the stroller in. BLBaby is at a great stage--as long as I feed him while I am eating he doesn't protest when we dine out. A few months from now when I can feed him something simple from the menu will be even better but this is working well too. I had despaired of ever getting out to lunch again. We did Eve and Central this week!!!

[Sthitch]

For mains, my wife had the fish and chips. Superb - amazing, flaky, flavorful fish in a delicious breading. We both agreed it was a bit better then Eamonns. Two nice large pieces of fish were served with a very nice tartar-like sauce which was superb. The fries were very good and crisp as well. I highly recommend it.

This was very different from the fish and chips I had at lunch today. While my dish was good, it was not Eamonns good. While my fish was quite moist, and flaky it did not have much flavor to it. While the breading was crispy, it was far too greasy. This was the most disappointing dish I have had at Central.

[Heather]

I finally made it in for lunch today. My first impression was that its very yellow and noisy, and full of power-lunchers. The position of the mirror over the bar is very amusing; this place is heaven for a chronic people watcher.

Deciding what to order was tough, and I was considering the tuna burger until I remembered Mark Slater's post here recommending the corned beef. The beef itself is heavenly, the bartender said they steam it for 24 hours so that it's almost braised. It's meltingly tender and moist. It was the best thing on my plate; the rest was merely OK. The lovely beef needed some rye with a little more oomph, and the finely shredded cole slaw is good on the sandwich, but I didn't care for it by itself. And this is probably a minority opinion, but I didn't like the frites. They were thicker than I like and very fatty. I ate a few and took the rest home to Scott.

My service at the bar was super, and I'd like to come back to try the onion soup and charcuterie.

[collije]

Went to checkout Wolfgang's the Source, left somewhat unimpressed. Headed to Central since we were in the area & had another good time. eally good service at the bar, reasonable prices in their wine list, and had a very good daily special on their short ribs. Do enjoy this place! My biggest gripe. Is a tad loud though, the acoustics aren't the best.

[goldenticket]

A Francophile's near-perfect evening included* a very pleasant meal in the bar at Central. After a short wait, we snagged a table and started with the onion and lardon tart. It's such a pretty (if simple) presentation - amazing what sliding half a circle a couple of inches does. Thin crispy crust and soft, sweet onions. I followed with the braised rabbit and spaetzle - OMG....VERY rich, but so good. The mustard sauce with the rabbit complemented the meat (which was not at all gamey) perfectly. The thick rounds of glazed carrots were also delicious - not sure what the sauce was but it worked. And that spaetzle...I could have eaten a gallon of it - total decadent comfort food, with LOTS of just-salty-enough cheese (reggiano? aged cheddar)...mmmmm.

The +1 had the sauteed scallops with tagliatelle provencale and was quite happy with his choice. A nice preparation and a bit different than the typical scallops treatments. Black olives, zucchini, etc were a nice counterpoint to the sweet scallops. Service was friendly and efficient and it was nice to see no trace of the attitude we'd encountered at the hostess stand on our first visit (many months ago). I really like Central and wish I made the effort to 'cross the river' and go there more often!

* The other part of the evening was seeing the double feature of Albert LaMorisse's White Mane and The Red Balloon. The Red Ballon was a regularly shown film at my rural elementary school and it was a real trip down memory lane to see it again. Wonder if my early childhood viewings influenced my interest in France/French, etc....

[Chris Cunningham]

Cedric's Pickles--Formidable!!!!

[Heather]

In the minority here...I stopped in today and ordered the (in)famous Central burger for lunch and disliked it. I got it with the cheese and bacon, not realizing it was on a buttered brioche, slathered with mayo, and included sauteed onions (more fat). I managed a quarter of it. Add the heavy frites, and it's a sure recipe for indigestion.

Alas, I was detecting notes of ground peper and I can't stand pepper. I wasn't actually sure if it was the burger or the fries that I was picking up the pepper from. I will ask for the fries without pepper next time and see if it helps.

The frites are peppered. That's what the black specks are.

[hmmboy]

Add the heavy frites, and it's a sure recipe for indigestion.The frites are peppered. That's what the black specks are.

I personally love those frites - IMHO some of the best in town, if not THE best

P.S. In the interest of full disclosure I am an investor in Central.

[Heather]

I personally love those frites - IMHO some of the best in town, if not THE best

To each his own. Mine were pretty unevenly cooked today. If I give Central another go, it will be for something less rich.

[TinDC]

I am in the frites love camp. I think that they are some of the best in the city. It has something to do with the fact that I love a thicker cut fry, as opposed to shoestrings.

[giant shrimp]

In the minority here...I stopped in today and ordered the (in)famous Central burger for lunch and disliked it. I got it with the cheese and bacon, not realizing it was on a buttered brioche, slathered with mayo, and included sauteed onions (more fat). I managed a quarter of it. Add the heavy frites, and it's a sure recipe for indigestion.The frites are peppered. That's what the black specks are.

the burger i had here recently was still good, though no longer the best in the universe, suffering from an underdone brioche that disintegrated rapidly. our son wanted to know what would happen if you ordered the chocolate mousse and you were allergic to the cherry that becomes increasingly distinct as you approach the bottom of the dish. no one is allergic to cherries, i told him, but the cocoa puffs sprinkled on top are an example of the horsing around in some of these recipes that seems unnecessary. michel richard sometimes orders the pied de cochon, we were told, and now that i am over the burgers i think next time i will veer in that direction. i agree that the food at central can fill you up quickly, and the best way to arrive is following an extensive fast.

[squidsdc]

the burger i had here recently was still good, though no longer the best in the universe, suffering from an underdone brioche that disintegrated rapidly. our son wanted to know what would happen if you ordered the chocolate mousse and you were allergic to the cherry that becomes increasingly distinct as you approach the bottom of the dish. no one is allergic to cherries, i told him, but the cocoa puffs sprinkled on top are an example of the horsing around in some of these recipes that seems unnecessary. michel richard sometimes orders the pied de cochon, we were told, and now that i am over the burgers i think next time i will veer in that direction. i agree that the food at central can fill you up quickly, and the best way to arrive is following an extensive fast.

Having only dined here once, and not having seen the mousse, my question would be what was the aim of the dish? My impression is that the Chef is playful (just look at the title of his book "Happy in the Kitchen") and I don't think of him as using unnecessary components in his dishes. Who decides what is necessary or not anyway? I think there is more to his thought process than we sometimes may get however. And maybe the novelty has worn off for you as well....it's all about expectations.

(And BTW, I am allergic to cherries--they are a stone fruit and I know I am not alone)

[Marcus Aurelius]

In the minority here...I stopped in today and ordered the (in)famous Central burger for lunch and disliked it. I got it with the cheese and bacon, not realizing it was on a buttered brioche, slathered with mayo, and included sauteed onions (more fat). I managed a quarter of it. Add the heavy frites, and it's a sure recipe for indigestion.The frites are peppered. That's what the black specks are.

Three times at Central. I agree with you regarding the burger -- very rich -- actually, almost everything I have eaten at Central is very rich: burger, fries, tagliatelle, kit kat, and onion soup. I was not able to finish the burger. The one time I ate the burger (with cheese), I found the taste to be good, but felt very heavy.

The duck rillettes appetizer is delicious. I would order this again, and again.

I enjoyed the the gin and tonic, which the bar tenders pay extra attention when making them. It was very light, thirst quenching, and almost effervescent. Central also has Blusser on tap, and was a refreshing and welcome change to the regular assortment of beers.

[Dave Pressley]

i told him, but the cocoa puffs sprinkled on top are an example of the horsing around in some of these recipes that seems unnecessary

It's no big secret that Michel Richard loves and needs a "crunch" in his dishes. This also explains the potato crisps on the lobster burgers. While you may deem them unnecessary, Chef Richard certainly does not. Textural contrast is an often overlooked component of a successful dish by some people.

[Marcus Aurelius]

It's no big secret that Michel Richard loves and needs a "crunch" in his dishes. This also explains the potato crisps on the lobster burgers. While you may deem them unnecessary, Chef Richard certainly does not. Textural contrast is an often overlooked component of a successful dish by some people.

Michel Richard Citronelle has a "crisp" on the Tuna Nií§oise. MMMMmmm delicious.

[mdt]

It's no big secret that Michel Richard loves and needs a "crunch" in his dishes. This also explains the potato crisps on the lobster burgers. While you may deem them unnecessary, Chef Richard certainly does not. Textural contrast is an often overlooked component of a successful dish by some people.

Doesn't his latest cookbook have a line that he is referred to as Captain Crunch?

[Dave Pressley]

Doesn't his latest cookbook have a line that he is referred to as Captain Crunch?

Pages 66 & 67 "They Call Me Captain Crunch".

[silentbob]

In the minority here...I stopped in today and ordered the (in)famous Central burger for lunch and disliked it. I got it with the cheese and bacon, not realizing it was on a buttered brioche, slathered with mayo, and included sauteed onions (more fat).

Not sure if this puts me in the minority or majority -- the burger, as constructed, is not really my thing even though I thought it tasted awesome. To the extent that "objective" comparisons are possible, it is tied with Palena at the top with Colorado Kitchen a distant third (though that may change after I visit next Tuesday). Perhaps the best analogy I can draw is that the burger at Central is a well-made, Oscar-contending film that doesn't entertain me.

I do agree with those who say that the food here is way too rich sometimes. The rilettes, while awesome, were probably not a great idea if we were already ordering other starters and dessert. The shrimp burger was so-so. Maybe well-constructed, but shrimp has never seemed like the kind of food that can be "great" (and I like to eat shrimp). The onion tart, on the other hand, I could eat every day.

[bettyjoan]

Dined at Central for the first time last night, before a trip to the National Theater (to see "Avenue Q," which I highly recommend). Our reservation was at 5:30, so I was a little worried about being rushed. However, our server read us very well and paced our meal impeccably; we walked out at 7:30, which was exactly what I was hoping for.

We ordered a bottle of Malbec, which was perfectly acceptable and reasonably priced (translation: the markup wasn't as ridiculous as it is at other establishments) at $38. For starters, I opted for the mussel chowder--delicious, and I am not the biggest mussel fan! The broth was creamy without being heavy, and the mussels were plump and flavorful. Yum. Boyfriend had the onion soup, which was decadent to say the least. They certainly don't skimp on the cheese!

For the main course, I chose the braised rabbit, largely because it came with spaetzle. The meat was very well-cooked, though it was nothing out-of-this-world. The spaetzle, however, and the "glazed" carrots that accompanied the meal? Fan-frickin'-tastic. If we hadn't been off to the theater, I would have asked for a doggie bag--the food was incredibly delicious, but it was too rich for me to finish. Boyfriend got the fish and chips, and he said that the fish was really good. He was NOT a fan of the frites, though, so there is definitely some division on that menu item. He also ordered a side of the mac and cheese, which he said was the best he's ever had. I only tasted a bit, but I agree that it was top-notch.

We split the kit kat bar for dessert, and it lived up to its hype. The malted vanilla ice cream that accompanied it was also a pleasant surprise. In the end, we left only $155 lighter in the wallet (after two appetizers, two entrees, a side dish, a dessert, a bottle of wine, a glass of some sort of Port-like drink, tax, and tip). For that price, Central offers some of the best food in town without the pretentious price tag. We'll definitely be back!

[Simon]

Meal report from last weekend:

First time dining at Central. Bold, playful, inventive cooking familiar from Citronelle. Great fun, but the brash, over-the-top style works better in smaller bites than in the entrees. In larger portions, the richness of the cooking often becomes excessive and monolithic. The entrees sometimes lack the attention to detail that is the hallmark of Michel's cuisine.

Starters:

-Gougeres: Wonderful, of course.

-Onion and lardon tart: The single most satisfying bite of food I have had in months. The richness of the bacon and the sweetness of the onions combine into something quite special.

-Oysters on the half shell: Meaty, briny. Correct.

-Duck rilletes and "faux gras" terrine: Genius.

-Mushroom pearl pasta "risotto": Another of Michel's trompe d'oeil tricks. Too rich. We shared it as an appetizer, and one bite was enough.

Main courses:

-72 hour braised short rib (sous vide): An intriguing dish. Remarkably cooked to a perfect medium rare. Not as flavorful as your typical braised short rib dish, but it's not trying to be. Better to think of it as a steak alternative. Wonderfully tender, yet has more flavor and complexity than your typical filet. Tangy steak sauce gives it a nice kick.

-Lamb shank with creamy polenta sauce: Fatty and rich. Too much so.

-Scallops with tagliatelle: The scallops were nicely sauteed, but the tagliatelle -- the main component of the dish -- was simply too salty. Sent back.

-Loup de mer: Best entree of the four. Meaty, with great depth of flavor.

Desserts:

-Chocolate mousse: Very good. Creamy and satisfying.

-Banana split: Deconstructed. The sides of ice cream were actually more tasty than the banana/cream.

-Kit-Kat Bar: Captures the sweetness and crunch of the original, while lifting it to an incredible level of refinement and richness. Wonderful.

I'd be more than happy to go back -- and soon -- to sit at the bar and just order appetizers.

[porcupine]

Bold, playful, inventive cooking familiar from Citronelle. Great fun, but the brash, over-the-top style works better in smaller bites than in the entrees. In larger portions, the richness of the cooking often becomes excessive and monolithic. The entrees sometimes lack the attention to detail that is the hallmark of Michel's cuisine.

Very well said. That's the best summary yet of Central.