Central, 11th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue Downtown - Executive Chef Nick Johnson and Chef de Cuisine Sean Mulcahy

[naxos]

Last minute dinner at Central last night- called at 7:30 and was able to be seated at 8. I guess we lucked out. I have always been a fan of Central but last night I had a great new addition to the menu- Cioppino- Husband had it as a special a few weeks ago and now it appears on the menu. Not the typical stewy dish- but all the elements- shrimp, clams, mussels served over squid vermicelli with yummy sauce for dipping- not a real spoon dish but a bread sopping delicious rendition. The squid vermicelli is amazing- husband had thought it had been pasta when he ate it. I hope this stays on the menu until my daughter's birthday at the end of the month.

[monavano]

Last week, Mr. MV and I ate at Central after seeing Lidai Bastianich at the Smithsonian (Nat. History Museum). We arrived at about 8pm without a reservation and were greeted warmly. We waited for under 10 min for a table.

I know it's been said before, but Central's burger is sublime. The brioche roll, the potato tuile, the ginger mayo, and of course, the burger cooked to a perfect medium-rare. The fries were hot, crisp and seasoned-really beyond. If I'm going to spend $17 on a cheeseburger and fries, this is the place to go. Really-at first I was put off by the price (having read about it-even how good the burger was) but after tasting, I consider myself lucky to be able to hop into DC and enjoy this fabulous hamburger.

(Mr. MV had the fish and chips and considered the batter perfectly crisp and seasoned. He said he prefers Eamonn's because the cod is firmer-not sure what fish is used at Central. Not that he didn't enjoy it, but just prefers a firmer fish. His fries were demolished)

[apples]

Ya know... I might be over Central. I hate to say it, I really do. Its a place that I want to love, just for being so ornery (tuile on a burger? really?), but I think I'm done. BF and I stopped by last Thursday after a lecture at the Willard. We grabbed a lounge table and ordered drinks-- Irish coffee for me, beer for him. The coffee was tasty, but really not $11 worth, in my opinion. And it wasn't hot. I ordered the French Onion soup and he had the burger with cheese. The soup was fine-- tasty, savory, satisfying-- but for $9 I want either more soup or a small nugget of gold in the bottom of the bowl. The burger looked like a quality piece of meat, but I could almost hear BF saying, "I wish we'd gone to Ray's." There's a distinct possibility that I'm just too young and inexperienced to appreciate a place like Central, but having eaten there several times, I think I can say that I'm not buying the hype. There are plenty of places where you dollar goes farther and the food is just more interesting.

[DonRocks]

There's a distinct possibility that I'm just too young and inexperienced to appreciate a place like Central

[DaRiv18]

Irish coffee for me . . . I ordered the French Onion soup

A serious question: is this pairing acceptable? Obviously I drink a fair share of coffee during brunch. But I was once at a dinner where a guy paired coffee (cream and Splenda) with his steak, which embarrassed and offended another dining companion. Yet tea at dinner doesn't seem to be any big deal. Is this pairing something you would feel comfortable doing at a business function or first date?

[Waitman]

Ya know... I might be over Central. I hate to say it, I really do. Its a place that I want to love, just for being so ornery (tuile on a burger? really?), but I think I'm done. BF and I stopped by last Thursday after a lecture at the Willard. We grabbed a lounge table and ordered drinks-- Irish coffee for me, beer for him. The coffee was tasty, but really not $11 worth, in my opinion. And it wasn't hot. I ordered the French Onion soup and he had the burger with cheese. The soup was fine-- tasty, savory, satisfying-- but for $9 I want either more soup or a small nugget of gold in the bottom of the bowl. The burger looked like a quality piece of meat, but I could almost hear BF saying, "I wish we'd gone to Ray's." There's a distinct possibility that I'm just too young and inexperienced to appreciate a place like Central, but having eaten there several times, I think I can say that I'm not buying the hype. There are plenty of places where you dollar goes farther and the food is just more interesting.

I've been to MRC a few times and have never found it to live up to its reputation. Some excellent stuff, great service, nice wine list, but some significant disappointments, as well.

A serious question: is this pairing acceptable? Obviously I drink a fair share of coffee during brunch. But I was once at a dinner where a guy paired coffee (cream and Splenda) with his steak, which embarrassed and offended another dining companion. Yet tea at dinner doesn't seem to be any big deal. Is this pairing something you would feel comfortable doing at a business function or first date?

"Embarrassed and offended" another dining companion? Somebody needs to get a grip. If I was at a business function or on a first date I might be inclined to follow the "rules" more closely, but anyone who pays more than passing notice to something like that has issues. Whatever pairing you prefer is acceptable (though even I might look at you funny if you ordered a grape soda).

I was once at lunch in a bad restaurant in Modesto, California and the red wine was served lukewarm, so I asked for an ice bucket. My dining companion was so flustered at the idea of putting cheap Pinot on ice that I finally had to pull it out of the bucket just to get him to stop jabbering about it. But, he had issues.

[Sthitch]

...I think I can say that I'm not buying the hype. There are plenty of places where you dollar goes farther and the food is just more interesting.

I have eaten at the bar a number of times, and find the staff to be quite pleasant and attentive. I just find that the more times I go the less I like the food. The French onion soup is fine, but I can get better up the street at Café du Parc (and it costs quite a bit less), and while the impossibly small serving of rillittes have never been anything other than delicious the last two times I had faux gras is over seasoned (worse each time), the burgers were fun the first time I had them, but I think that was mostly because they were unique, but now each one looses something each time I have had it, and while I find the fried chicken to be perfectly cooked it lacks any seasoning and is frankly boring. If I am in the neighborhood I would rather have lunch at PS7, SEI, Café du Parc, or Proof all for considerably less money.

[Mark Slater]

I have eaten at the bar a number of times, and find the staff to be quite pleasant and attentive. I just find that the more times I go the less I like the food. The French onion soup is fine, but I can get better up the street at Café du Parc (and it costs quite a bit less)

Actually, according to their menu, onion soup is $9.95 at both lunch and dinner.

[Sthitch]

Actually, according to their menu, onion soup is $9.95 at both lunch and dinner.

I remembered it being cheaper, but either way a much better rendition.

[porcupine]

The front door design at Central is terrible. Whenever both doors are open at the same time, a gust of air rushes in, and on a night like last night, diners at the tables closest to the door could feel it, and it was most unpleasant. ("Gust of air": strong enough to blow a menu off one table and past another.)

Two things about this. First: people, there's a reason why buildings have vestibules. The proper way to use one is to open one door, step into the vestibule, and CLOSE that first door before opening the other one. If that seems too fussy, then can you please at least not hold both doors open simultaneously?

Second, the staff at central (hosts, hostesses, manager, waiters), recognize this problem and spent a lot of time guiding people through the entering/exiting process. I think some patrons looked irritated to find the inner door being momentarily held shut while they entered, but I can assure you that a lot of diners were very pleased at the chance to finish their hot food before it got prematurely cold.

Thanks, Central staff, for a nice hot dinner.

Oh, yeah, food report: their bangers and mash (I forget what they call it) is great.

i feel much better now

[KMango]

...First: people, there's a reason why buildings have vestibules. The proper way to use one is to open one door, step into the vestibule, and CLOSE that first door before opening the other one. If that seems too fussy, then can you please at least not hold both doors open simultaneously?

i feel much better now

Just the other night, I was the offender in another restaurant's vestibule. Once I realized my error, I felt like a hat of the ass variety.

It's outstanding that Central tries to stay on top of the situation. But yes, we'd all benefit from being more mindful during the colder months.

[Pat]

Chef Change

[Sthitch]

Chef Change

I wonder if the chef change will also bring a much needed menu update.

[DonRocks]

I wonder if the chef change will also bring a much needed menu update.

Not sure about an update, but I had dinner at Central a couple weeks ago, and the menu was larger than I'd ever seen it.

Good luck Cedric!

[Sthitch]

Not sure about an update, but I had dinner at Central a couple weeks ago, and the menu was larger than I'd ever seen it.

I can't remember the last time I saw a change let alone an addition to the lunch menu.

[lekkerwijn]

I can't remember the last time I saw a change let alone an addition to the lunch menu.

There are definitely some new menu items. For example, they added the Cioppino recently. We were there a couple weeks ago and they had frogs legs on the menu, which I didn't recall having seen before. That Cioppino by the way, is awesome. The shredded squid-noodles must be tasted to be believed.

[Sthitch]

There are definitely some new menu items. For example, they added the Cioppino recently. We were there a couple weeks ago and they had frogs legs on the menu, which I didn't recall having seen before. That Cioppino by the way, is awesome. The shredded squid-noodles must be tasted to be believed.

Neither of which appear on the lunch menu. I do see one addition the "chicken and lemon burger" - a dish I will let someone else drop $15 to try.

[Michael Landrum]

I can't remember the last time I saw a change let alone an addition to the lunch menu.

Well, that does it for me. I say good riddance at long last. I am just glad that Cedric has finally been exposed for the fraud he is, all this time pretending to work from morning to night but really doing absolutely nothing for me.

Now that it is out in the open let's all wish him ill and hope that he heads straight to hell where he belongs. Let's see how he likes the menu there.

[Sthitch]

Well, that does it for me. I say good riddance at long last. I am just glad that Cedric has finally been exposed for the fraud he is, all this time pretending to work from morning to night but really doing absolutely nothing for me.

Now that it is out in the open let's all wish him ill and hope that he heads straight to hell where he belongs. Let's see how he likes the menu there.

Well when I decide where I am going to spend my finite money and time I do care what a restaurant does for me. Why don't you just say what it is you want to say about me, and stop hiding behind your cutesy sarcasm? I assure you the feeling is mutual.

[Pat]

I do see one addition the "chicken and lemon burger" - a dish I will let someone else drop $15 to try.

Tom Sietsema said good things about it on his chat today, for what that's worth.

[chefgunshow]

Sweet. Food person tho down. Or is it a food fight?

Well, that does it for me. I say good riddance at long last. I am just glad that Cedric has finally been exposed for the fraud he is, all this time pretending to work from morning to night but really doing absolutely nothing for me.

Now that it is out in the open let's all wish him ill and hope that he heads straight to hell where he belongs. Let's see how he likes the menu there.

Well when I decide where I am going to spend my finite money and time I do care what a restaurant does for me. Why don’t you just say what it is you want to say about me, and stop hiding behind your cutesy sarcasm? I assure you the feeling is mutual.

[ktmoomau]

Went to dinner on Sunday night with my brother and his fiance, it was his first time here. We had a really nice dinner. Gras, rillettes and pork belly appetizers, all decadently good. I liked the chile sauce with the pork it made it taste like fatty, soft and wonderful BBQ.

I had the bucatini with meatballs. I was a little unsure of ordering pasta and meatballs at Central, but was very pleased. The noodles were clearly made fresh, they had great texture. I liked that the noodles were bigger and hollow, it really added to the taste, I know that sounds funny, but really their texture and shape really made the dish. The meatballs were soft with nice herbs. The tomato sauce extremely fresh and tomatoey. I was really happy with my dish.

Hubby had the fried chicken (this is starting to become standard), he loves their mashed potatoes too. Brother had the calf's liver which was very meaty and flavorful, but one of the best liver dishes I have had. His fiance had beef cheeks with tagliatelle. I have had this dish before, but I love how soft and shredded the meat is, the pasta just soaks up all the flavor from it.

I ended with the raspberry cheesecake which was decadent and dense, but very good. The raspberry taste was so pronounced it really helped balance the dish. I was glad I ordered it even though I was stuffed before it even came.

Had a bottle of Malbec which is a nice choice with multiple people with different tastes in wine, and a good price when you are picking the wine, but not paying the bill.

[DinerGirl]

I was at Central about a week ago and Arthur said he was getting ready to add chicken pot pie and meatloaf to the menu.

[Ericandblueboy]

I was at Central about a week ago and Arthur said he was getting ready to add chicken pot pie and meatloaf to the menu.

Is the place turning into a Waffle House?

[Rovers2000]

To my knowledge, Waffle House serves neither chicken pot pie nor meatloaf ("Mom! Meatloaf!!" ): Menu

If their take on either is done up to par with their fried chicken, why not put them on the menu?

[DaRiv18]

My go-to meatloaf recipe is MR's version in his "Home Cooking with a French Accent", with lentils in it.

[DinerGirl]

Is the place turning into a Waffle House?

Right, because Bouchon and Ad Hoc are Waffle Houses, too, for serving chicken pot pie and meatloaf.

[Waitman]

I'm with Ericandblueboy.

First, except for the first dinner of a friend's doomed (obviously, immediately after that dinner was served) marriage, I've not tasted meatloaf for 40 years and they've been damn good years for not having done so. It is physically and metaphorically impossible for meatloaf to taste good, and gussied up French meatloaf is bound to be two parts cute and three parts bad. I've had mixed experiences at Central but the one thing that was unmistakeably a mistake was the chicken nuggets. Sometimes their wit overwhelms their talent.

Second, I'm not sure why one would go out for pot pie unless someone else was shaving truffles on it., or they were in the East Midlands or Derbyshire or something.

Third, why go out to get home cooking when you can cook it at home?

God Bless Central,but I thought the comfort food thing died comfortably in its sleep about 1998. We hired the French to cook for us because our mothers really weren't that good.

[DaRiv18]

Let's be fair here, lest those who haven't been get the wrong idea. Yes, Central does comfort food, those entrees are in the $15-25 range, plus a couple of steaks in the $30s. But, they also do more "refined" entrees, generally in the $25-35 range. I can have my meatloaf, while you can do the rabbit or beef cheeks. (Now, if we're bringing a vegan [or even a vegetarian] along, they will be SOL). That's been their approach since opening, so to say it's turning into Waffle House is misguided.

[ulterior epicure]

I had a decent lunch here recently. Richard's food is fun, creative, and over-the-top. It's generous, effusive, and lovable. Anchored in fundamental technique, there are no surprises here except how good well-cooked and simple food can be.

There were textbook Gougeres ($7), about a dozen warm puffs sporting a soft-crust jacket laced with grated cheese.

There were textbook French fries - crisp, salty, golden.

Michel Richard's signature Ahi Tuna Burger ($19) was well-made, a thick, chopped tuna patty on a pillowy bun with tomato and house-made mayonnaise. I might have liked the inside of the patty a touch more rare, as I recalled it being the last time I had one out on the patio at Citronelle nearly a decade ago. But it was flavorful and moist, and, perhaps the only reasonably sized portion we saw (price notwithstanding).

Only one potato tuile? I remember there being at least two in past versions (indeed, the burger on their website boasts at least half a dozen crisps). Two (or more) tuiles seem necessary. The one sort of got lost along the way, its crunchiness diminished with every bite.

My Corned Beef Sandwich ($17) was excellent (even if a little overpriced). The ultra-thin layers of house-corned meat were moist and light. It was impossibly delicate, yet satisfying. The slaw (which came on and with the sandwich) was a tangle of grated cabbage, zucchini, and carrot brought together by a slightly curried mayonnaise dressing. The rye bread - mildly toasted - held up nicely, it being neither dry, stiff, overly thick nor flimsy. Instead of fries, I opted for a salad. Nothing new here, just mixed greens and a zippy dressing.

At first glance, the dessert menu seems like a laundry list of usual suspects (e.g., chocolate mousse, crème brí»lée, chocolate "lava" cake, cheesecake, etc.), with a couple of Richard signatures thrown in (e.g. Michel's Chocolate Bar, a.k.a. "Le Kit Cat."). But well-made dessert is a well-made dessert.

The "Tropical Meringue" ($9) was a mountain of crisp, airy meringues and coconut sorbet topped with a fluffy cloud of whipped cream flocked with colorful dices of tropical fruit (kiwi, mango papaya, bananas, and pineapple) and drizzled with fruit syrups. It had every textural component you could want. It was light and refreshing. It was wonderful, large enough for four. (Our server admitted that our serving seemed unusually large.)

The "Banana Split" ($12) was an ice cream parlor on a plate. It was excess at its best, a childhood fantasy.

Our server hit the mark for this kind of establishment at that hour of the day, focusing more on efficiency than personality. She seemed to have more to say as the crowd thinned out. Yes, the restaurant was full when we walked in around 1:15 on a Friday.

My friend had hoped to revisit the Cafe Brulot here (it was listed on the cocktail menu online). Sadly, it was not on the menu when we arrived. Instead, she enjoyed a tall glass of "Cinnamon Sweet Tea" ($11). It tasted like cinnamon-flavored Listerine to me. But she enjoyed it.

You can find the particulars and photos on my blog.

[ulterior epicure]

Third, why go out to get home cooking when you can cook it at home?

Generally, I would agree with you (assuming one is a relatively able home cook). But, speaking from personal experience, I'm much more likely to let someone else add pounds of butter and duck fat to my food than prudence would allow me at home. And I say this only half-jokingly.

God Bless Central,but I thought the comfort food thing died comfortably in its sleep about 1998. We hired the French to cook for us because our mothers really weren't that good.

[Roger Troutman]

Central is probably my favorite all-around place to eat in DC, but at our last visit, the fries were soggy, our server was acting really flaky, and she had the nerve to accuse my wife of trying to run off with her pen as we were leaving. That was simply bizarre and leaves me a little less anxious to get back there anytime soon. We go there pretty regularly, and that was the first time the food or service has ever been less than perfect.

[durwoodx]

Grabbed early dinner here twice in the past month or so due to having some work stuff in the area and, you know, what the heck. The food experience ran from meh to holy-crap-epiphany.

For my first visit I started with the Goat Cheese Caesar Salad - interesting but more exciting on paper than on the plate. Didn't really get much from the goat cheese.

Perhaps it is sacrilige but I was seriously underwhelmed by the Lobster Burger - the flavor of the meat didn't really seem to have much of a chance to come through the excexxively creamy dressing it was formed with. In general this whole dish came off as non-descript.

Closed with the Creme Brulee - perfectly functional example of the dish but again, not blown away really.

Second trip - this time with a friend from work - was much more successful. We went nuts on the appitizer menu and had an impromtu tasting feast.

Opened with the Gougeres which were delightful - a lovely light texture with just a slight amount of give/crunch on the outside and a nice bite of cheese flavor. Leleboo claims she can make better ones. Personally I think everyone on the board should hold her to that.

Then the barrage of appetizers begins: Crab Cake with Leek Tartare Very nice - the leek tartare was slaw-like. The leek slivers themselves were very tender and the acidity of the vinegar with the tang of the leeks played very well against the sweetness of the (very good) crab meat. Also of mention was the outer texture of the crab cake itself.

Yellow Tomato Gazpacho with Lump Crab Meat Wow. Bursting with slightly unripe tomato flavor (in a good way) and crab meat that tasted like it was still kicking 15 minutes earlier.

Mushroom Pearl Pasta Risotto The highlight of the meal. A very earthy creamy mushroom flavor is a "faux risotto" made with (per the title) pearl pasta rather than rice. One of the most striking dishes I have had in a good long while.

Tartare of Filet Mignon and French Fries The fries - outstanding -served with a mayo that looked and tasted like it had been whipped up in the kitchen 5-10 minutes earlier (which it may well have been.) The tartare - one of my biggest dining disappointments all year. I have no idea what the meat tasted like as it was completely overwhelmed by vinegar acidity and a whole heaping LOT of mustard flavor. The only dish of the evening that didn't get polished off (infact over half of it was left uneaten.)

Finally (as if that wasn't enough) we finished off with the Tropical Meringue, which has got to be the quintessential summer dessert. Frozen coconut confection alternated with delightfully crispy meringue and topped with various tropical fruits. Yum yum.

All in all while the misses were striking (seriously did NOT like that tartare) the rest was more than enough to make up for it.

[leleboo]

Opened with the Gougeres which were delightful - a lovely light texture with just a slight amount of give/crunch on the outside and a nice bite of cheese flavor. Leleboo claims she can make better ones. Personally I think everyone on the board should hold her to that.

If you get them when the kitchen is totally on -- and, as you should, you get them right out of the oven -- they're great. But that isn't always the case, and sometimes they taste more of pâte à choux than cheese. I've just had more consistent ones in my own house.

(You're gonna get me in so much trouble, dude.)

[Miami Danny]

The tartare - one of my biggest dining disappointments all year. I have no idea what the meat tasted like as it was completely overwhelmed by vinegar acidity and a whole heaping LOT of mustard flavor.

The last time I had the tartare (last month) I thought it was one of the best examples of this dish I had ever tasted-fresh, subtle, meaty, and with a great mix of traditional tartare ingredients. For $15 with excellent fries, off the appetizer menu, it was more than enough after splitting the faux gras/pate plate. Plus a $6 glass of rose or two. I find Central to be a great bargain if you choose so. Good martinis, too.

[durwoodx]

The last time I had the tartare (last month) I thought it was one of the best examples of this dish I had ever tasted-fresh, subtle, meaty, and with a great mix of traditional tartare ingredients. For $15 with excellent fries, off the appetizer menu, it was more than enough after splitting the faux gras/pate plate. Plus a $6 glass of rose or two. I find Central to be a great bargain if you choose so. Good martinis, too.

That may have been your experience, and overall I really like this place, but there was absolutely nothing subtle about the tartare I was served this week.

[DaRiv18]

That may have been your experience, and overall I really like this place, but there was absolutely nothing subtle about the tartare I was served this week.

I am a big fan of the tartare there. Thematically, I find Central to usually be over-the-top, occasionally a bit too busy, very fun presentations, and rarely subtle. Excellent comfort food, in my opinion.

[Xochitl10]

The tomato/goat cheese torte is super delicious. It's like a square of creamy tomato-soup tasting mousse on top of a thin pastry square, topped with grape tomatoes and surrounded by basil oil. Very nice with a strawberry Gimlet. My friend and I were also pleased with our cheeses, a medium-soft goat and a blue whose names I've forgotten, and a Cheddar. I like that Central's cheese servings aren't stingy for the price ($12 for three non-sliver, perfectly adequately sized pieces).

[Sthitch]

The last time I had the tartare (last month) I thought it was one of the best examples of this dish I had ever tasted-fresh, subtle, meaty, and with a great mix of traditional tartare ingredients.

My experience at lunch today directly mirrored that of durwoodx, other than containing beef, capers, and shallots there was not much in the way of tradition. For me the best example remains the Fifth Floor Restaurant at the London Harvey Nichols, that only had coarse chopped beef, an egg yolk, capers, and shallots - unlike what I had at Central this simple preparation allowed each ingredient worked to enhance the flavor and texture of the beef.

[ktmoomau]

I had dinner at Central last night, the first time I had been in some months now. And while the food was pretty good, it just wasn't quite the normal Central experience I am used to. I started with the goat cheese Caesar salad, which is normally a favorite of mine, but the goat cheese and dressing where a little bit heavy handed and clumpy, it lacked a lot of the nice garlic taste it normally has (perhaps burried under dressing) and just seemed to lack some of the normal Central finesse. There would be clumps of goat cheese, then clumps of dressing.

I had the scallops with roasted corn and mushrooms for dinner. The menu didn't note that the corn was a puree, or I would have ordered something else. The corn puree was kind of grainy, and very rich making the dish very rich with the carmelized onions and the mushrooms were kind of lost in the whole dish, there, but not one of the central tastes. Again just didn't seem to be quite the normal Central finesse.

Dessert of chocolate mousse was heavenly. Rich and light with a nice surprise of their raspberry sauce in the bottom.

My husband who thinks they have the best fried chicken ever said it was just ok last night.

Perhaps it was a bad night. I am hoping it isn't slipping after the loss of Cedric Maupillier. It is normally my favorite restaurant in the area.

[porcupine]

I had dinner at Central last night, the first time I had been in some months now. And while the food was pretty good, it just wasn't quite the normal Central experience I am used to.

Say hi next time. Did you notice that the big guy was there, too? (though not in the kitchen)

I'm sorry to say that I agree with you. The food is still good, but it's lost its edge. Or maybe it's just become too familiar.

[ktmoomau]

Say hi next time. Did you notice that the big guy was there, too? (though not in the kitchen)

I'm sorry to say that I agree with you. The food is still good, but it's lost its edge. Or maybe it's just become too familiar.

I will! We sat in the very front, so we didn't really see a lot. I don't think it's too familiar, I think it's lost the edge, I have had the same dishes before and they were executed with more finesse. You would think with the big guy in the house, they would really be on top of their game. Luckily at least the desserts are still stellar. I hope perhaps that he can whip everyone into shape. I really really love Central when it's on its game. Maybe he is just spread a bit thin with things picking up in Tysons.

[porcupine]

happy dance as I eat Pinkberry Original with the chocolate beads like Central uses on its desserts.

Luckily at least the desserts are still stellar.

Pardon me for being crass, but much as I love Richard's cooking, I've never been too fond of his desserts, and I've often wondered... am I the only one out there not enamored of the étrons lapins that tops so many of them?

ps fwiw Mr P was just disagreeing with me - he thinks the dishes we had last Wednesday were better than usual.

[leleboo]

étrons lapins

Well, I'm never going to look at the them the same way again.

(And no, I've never been terribly fond of them -- although I don't have a strong feeling about them either way. I consider them more textural than flavorful, and while I understand using them for textural contrast on a creamy mousse, for example, sometimes it just seems unnecessarily fussy.)

[dcandohio]

I had dinner at Central last night, the first time I had been in some months now. And while the food was pretty good, it just wasn't quite the normal Central experience I am used to. I started with the goat cheese Caesar salad, which is normally a favorite of mine, but the goat cheese and dressing where a little bit heavy handed and clumpy, it lacked a lot of the nice garlic taste it normally has (perhaps burried under dressing) and just seemed to lack some of the normal Central finesse. There would be clumps of goat cheese, then clumps of dressing.

I had lunch there yesterday, and was particularly underwhelmed by the goat cheese Caesar. There was, as you say, no real garlic flavor. The goat cheese was more a topping than a dressing, and there really wasn't much dressing at all. It was more like a tightly coiled spiral of romaine with goat cheese smeared on top. My #1 had the hangar steak and a side of mac and cheese. They steak was fine, no issues. The mac was good, but again, nothing really special.

On the plus side, the service was very nice and I enjoyed the onion soup on a wet, dreary day. However, I think at Central's price point, the food should really be better than it was yesterday.

[qwertyy]

You can taste the butter in every bite of every component in the special of chicken sausage (with sauerkraut, apples, and mashed potatoes). It was certainly delicious, but I'm not sure it was special, lacking any sauce or flavor profile to bring everything together (except, of course, butter). You can't make any such complaints about the plum sidecar, charcuterie board, and bread, which made both me and my friend visiting from Africa sigh with satisfaction. The indulgent service, too, was appreciated by a couple of ladies who hadn't seen each other in a long while.

[Tujague]

Three of us went to Central this past Monday night. We went for our usual starters of gougeres and the bacon-onion tart. Both were good, but the latter struck me as smaller than in earlier visits. My two companions went for burgers--one chicken-lemon, the other ahi tuna, and they both liked them. I opted for the salmon with pearl pasta, and I have to confess some disappointment. The pasta is served chilled in some sort of white sauce that has strong flavors of both onion and lemon. It would be good on its own, but paired with the salmon (perfectly cooked, thank you) and the pear tomato salad topping, it was too much a summery dish and unsatisfying. I wish they would go back to their earlier pairing of the salmon with lentils, at least for the colder months. Overall not a bad experience by any means, but Central has lost much of its sense of surprise it had in its first few years. It seems odd to say that it needs to be refreshed after only 4 years in business, but that's the distinct sense I left with.

[davidhale]

I opted for the salmon with pearl pasta, and I have to confess some disappointment. The pasta is served chilled in some sort of white sauce that has strong flavors of both onion and lemon. It would be good on its own, but paired with the salmon (perfectly cooked, thank you) and the pear tomato salad topping, it was too much a summery dish and unsatisfying.

Thank you for your post; just fyi the salmon set has since changed to a celery root puree with mushrooms and walnuts; it's delicious and much more seasonally appropriate. Please introduce yourself next time you're in!-D.

[ktmoomau]

Just heard some new items are being tested. If you are in there later on in the evenings you may get a taste. Crossing my fingers that they get the wow factor back. If anyone goes please report.

[DanCole42]

Had a fun dinner at Central on Monday. Food was paced well, but service overall was very aloof and rigid. I got the sense our waiter was angry about something. Possibly that I was wearing a brown fedora with a black coat.

As per usual, the gougères ($7) hit the spot after a cold evening of ice skating, but I'm always a little sad when I pay a markup for something I can make at home in less time than it takes to read a menu.

The charcuterie plate ($22) was very "meh," especially for the cost. The meats themselves were decent, but not anything I couldn't have picked up from the Wegman's deli counter. Our waiter couldn't even tell me what they were, and I was a little conflicted; my internal monologue ran something like: "Four meats, and no one told me what's what. Okay, this is probably prosciutto, but... Is this supposed to be one of those times where I'm supposed to pretend I'm such a huge food snob that I don't need to be told what the dish is? I'm supposed to just recognize it?" The faux gras was awesome; I would have preferred just that and some of their really creamy bread, grilled.

For my main I got the hanger steak au poivre with onion carbonara ($26). This was pretty freakin' great. The onion carbonara was really clever: julienned onions cooked until very soft so that they look like pasta. The steak was cooked perfectly, but the sauce was just of the highest level of finesse. Peppery and beefy and thick and sweet-tart: if my plate had been a cup I would have drunk deep.

I always have fun at Central, but in the future I'll be more selective with my apps.